03.10.2017 9 064

Imperial hazel grouse, planting and care - 3 steps to lush flowering

Imperial hazel grouse is one of the most beautiful plants that decorate flower beds in spring. It looks great both in group and single plantings, so it gives the gardener the opportunity to show his imagination and create unusual compositions. Like all flowers, it requires special care, otherwise you may not be able to wait for flowering on time. For many gardeners, only green panicles appear in May, which dry out in June; it is clear that this is not enough beauty. What is the problem and why does the imperial hazel grouse not bloom?

The main reasons for the lack of inflorescence in the imperial hazel grouse

Optimum temperature for imperial hazel grouse flower

Low temperatures prevent the flower from ripening. The plant should be provided with the proper microclimate. Inflorescences, as a rule, are formed at temperatures above +23 degrees. It is necessary to move the plant to another area of ​​the site or temporarily transplant it into a container.

Small size bulb of imperial hazel grouse

Each bulbous plant has its own concept of “small size.” For example, hazel grouse can bloom only when planting bulbs more than 8 cm in diameter. Anything smaller will grow and develop, gradually increasing its mass to adapt to new conditions. After some time, the bulb acquires the required size and will be able to produce the long-awaited flower stalks.

Improper planting of the imperial hazel grouse

When planting, it is necessary to choose the correct planting depth for the bulb. When planted very shallowly, the bulb becomes very sensitive to weather changes. When landing very deep, she has to expend a lot of energy to survive. In both cases, we will not wait for flowering. The correct depth would be three times the height of the bulb. Therefore, for large bulbs the planting depth will be 20-25 cm, and for medium ones 15-20 cm. In order to reduce the risk of rotting, we lay the bulb slightly on its side. Sprinkle a layer of sand on top and add a little organic fertilizer. It is advisable to plant them either in the fall (before the onset of cold weather) or in the early spring (immediately as soon as the snow melts).

Rotten bulb of the imperial hazel grouse

This occurs due to excessive moisture or improper planting. The culture needs to be dug up. Cut off the affected areas and treat with potassium permanganate. Before further planting, it is necessary to thoroughly dry the tubers and treat them with a growth stimulator. A few grams of wood ash mixed with coarse sand should be added to the planting hole.

Growing imperial hazel grouse in one place

If we do not dig up and replant the bulb, it begins to divide into smaller ones, which leads to a loss of its size. But you can’t expect flowering from small bulbs. Therefore, to ensure that flowering is achieved at next year It is necessary to dig up medium and large bulbs.

Planting imperial hazel grouse

A peculiarity of hazel grouse bulbs is the presence of juicy, unprotected scales. Any damage to the scales (creases, cuts, dark brown spots of rot), as well as improper storage conditions of the bulbs, causing them to dry out (the bulbs become soft and flabby) or the appearance of mold on the bulbs can cause their death. The likelihood of death increases significantly if the bulbs are planted incorrectly, when excessive moisture in cold soil causes them to rot.

It is better to plant hazel grouse bulbs in an elevated place where there is no stagnation of water. If there is a danger of waterlogging of the soil in the place you have chosen for planting hazel grouse, make an artificial embankment on it. Fill the bottom of a wide planting hole with coarse sand, the depth of which is determined by the size of the bulb and the height of the plant (large bulbs of low-grouse hazel grouse are planted to a depth of about 12 cm, tall ones - about 20 cm). Before planting, it is advisable to disinfect hazel grouse bulbs (for example, with a solution of potassium permanganate) and then powder them with crushed charcoal. To prevent moisture from accumulating between the scales of hazel grouse bulbs, it is better to place the bulbs sideways in the planting hole and sprinkle them with sand. After this, the planting hole is filled with a light substrate (a mixture of peat or humus with nutritious soil).

If it is not possible to plant hazel grouse bulbs immediately after purchase, protect them from drying out - place them in slightly damp peat or live sphagnum moss and put them in the fruit compartment of the refrigerator. Usually hazel grouse are planted in the garden in September-October. Forced later planting of bulbs requires mulching the planting site and covering it with leaves for the winter.

Caring for the imperial hazel grouse

An unpretentious plant. However, if you don’t take care of it at all, then don’t expect flowering either.

In snowy winters, adult plants do not require shelter, but in winters with little snow, they need to be covered with spruce branches, straw or reeds with a layer of 25-30 cm. In spring, remove the shelter.

Loosening around the imperial hazel grouse must be done extremely carefully; it is better not to do this at all, since the roots are often located near the surface. Mulching is the best measure for the imperial hazel grouse (the soil needs aeration and moisture).

Fertilize with complex mineral fertilizers. Do not use concentrated foliar fertilizers, as this can lead to leaf burns.

Do not tie up the stems of adult plants, as they are wind-resistant.

Young shoots of hazel grouse are frost-resistant, they are not afraid of spring weather of -5°C, but they can “joke” on you, appearing frostbitten and drooping, causing you to faint. But with the first rays of the sun they are restored and make you happy.

The imperial hazel grouse flower, the care and planting of which requires compliance with certain rules, is a very beautiful plant that goes well with tulips and daffodils. In addition, many gardeners use it not only to decorate flower beds, but also to repel small rodents.

Grouse does not bloom - bad bulb

Certainly, main reason The reason why hazel grouse do not bloom is due to poor quality planting material. If you decide to save money and buy bulbs that are too small, you may not be able to wait for the fritillaria to bloom in the first year. After all, most likely, your bulbs are babies, and they need to gain strength for full flowering.

Of course, the size of the bulbs of different varieties of fritillaria varies greatly. Russian hazel grouse, for example, has the smallest bulb compared to other varieties - about 1 cm in diameter. The bulb of the broad-leaved hazel grouse is slightly larger – 2-3 cm in diameter. Radde's hazel grouse has large bulbs - about 6cm. But the largest planting material for almost all varieties of imperial hazel grouse and Eduard hazel grouse is 10 cm in diameter.

Therefore, when buying bulbs, pay attention to their grade. The higher quality planting material you buy, the greater your chances of seeing fritillaria bloom.

Grouse grown from seeds also have problems with flowering. Such specimens usually bloom in 4-5 years.

They do not bloom at all or produce small flowers and too old bulbs that have not been removed from the ground for several years, so most varieties of fritillaria are recommended to replant the bulbs every 2-3 years. But the imperial hazel grouse needs to be dug up every year.

Grouse landing site

Of course, the location of the area for planting hazel grouse and the soil on it also play an important role. If you want hazel grouse to not only grow, but also bloom, follow the rules of agricultural technology.

It is very important that the soil on the site is permeable or drainable. It is good if the bed for planting hazel grouse is located higher than neighboring areas: this will ensure a good outflow of water.

Heavy loamy soils can be made lighter by adding river sand for digging. You can improve the composition of the soil with leafy, well-rotted humus. But adding too heavy nitrogenous fertilizers (including manure) is extremely undesirable.

When planting, you can add a little wood ash to each hole. To prevent water from getting on the growth point of the future peduncle, the bulb is placed slightly on its side when planting. It is better to sprinkle sand on top.

The area for fritillaria should not be in a draft. And for the winter, despite the frost resistance of these flowers, it is still better to cover the area with spruce branches or other insulating material so that the flower buds on the bulbs do not freeze out in snowless, frosty winters.

Proper care of hazel grouse

Most types of fritillaria expel the stem and peduncles early. In April-May, frosts are still possible, and this can cause the stems of hazel grouse to freeze and bend towards the ground. That is why it is so important to plant hazel grouse in a place protected from drafts, well warmed up in daytime plot.

If the soil on the site warms up well during the day, then at night it will give off some of the absorbed heat, which will prevent the peduncle from freezing. If the place is damp and too shaded, then the peduncle may die at the forcing stage, and you will not get flowers.

You need to be careful with loosening and fertilizing. If you get too carried away with loosening the soil around plants, you can damage their surface roots.

And feeding with too concentrated fertilizers can cause burns on the leaves and rotting of the bulb.

However, more often the reason that hazel grouse does not bloom is not an excess, but a lack of fertilizer. For full development, flowers need good nitrogenous fertilizers - light and easily digestible. It is better to buy ready-made complex fertilizer and apply it according to the scheme in the instructions included with the drug.

Two weeks before flowering, spray hazel grouse flowers with a solution of microelements that activates budding.

But during this time it never bloomed. Although every year in the spring it sprouts, grows, and new shoots appear. And they say it needs to be dug up every year like a tulip?

Perhaps the hazel grouse bulb is grown from seeds, and then flowering will occur only in the 5th year. I usually get meter-high inflorescences with huge bell-shaped flowers from bulbs weighing 400-500 g.

But in order for a plant to bestow luxurious flowers, it is necessary to fulfill some of its whims. I plant the bulbs on a raised bed (they do not like stagnant water) in soil rich in humus and light in composition. Manure should not be added before planting.

The day before, you can add leaf or other humus for digging. If the soil is heavy, add sand. In a planting hole 15-20 cm deep, I pour a handful of wood ash at the bottom, then a layer of sand, and lay the bulb on its side on this pillow.

Be sure to make sure that the hole from the peduncle is not positioned vertically and that water does not get into it. I sprinkle sand on top of the bulb and then soil.

In the spring I feed the plants with complex mineral fertilizer with microelements. I apply it between the rows and mix it with the soil while loosening it. About 2 weeks before flowering, I spray the leaves and peduncles of hazel grouse with a solution of peat oxidate or microelements (according to the attached instructions).

It is better to dig up imperial hazel grouse bulbs every year. I do this after the flower stalks and leaves dry. Otherwise, the flowers become smaller, or even don’t bloom at all. After drying the bulbs under a canopy in the shade, I store them for about a month and a half in a box with sawdust at a temperature of +18-20 degrees (just not in the attic, as it can be very hot there).

In the 20th of August, as soon as the roots appear, you can start planting. Hazel grouse are not afraid of winter frosts, nor are they afraid of spring frosts, but it is better to cover their plantings with fallen leaves for the winter.

The flowers of hazel grouse (any of its varieties, but especially the imperial one) attract with their extraordinary beauty and uniqueness, but many gardeners are faced with the question: why are the hazel grouse not blooming, what is to blame? improper care, climatic conditions or something else?

It is precisely because of the peculiarities of care, which sometimes amateur gardeners are not even aware of, that it may not bloom long years- and therefore not very common.

Why don't hazel grouse bloom?

There are many reasons for the lack of flowering in these wonderful plants. And here are some of them:

Improper handling of the bulb. It must be dug up every year, then dried (warmed if necessary) at a temperature of at least 30 degrees for two months. Then we remove the bulbs to a cooler place (15-20 degrees) so that roots form. It is this technique that promotes the further formation of flower buds.

Unsuitable soil. Hazel grouse needs good nutritious soil, but in no case fresh organic matter. It is best to plant the bulb on a sandy cushion, without adding humus or fertilizer immediately before planting.

Small bulbs. When purchasing, you need to choose the largest bulbs; if their diameter is less than 5 cm, they will not bloom in the first year. The larger and heavier the bulb, the more flowers there will be in the inflorescence and the larger they will be. For example, healthy and strong bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse can reach a weight of up to 0.5 kg, and they will produce inflorescences 1 meter high and simply huge bell-shaped flowers.

The bulb is grown from seeds. In this case, flowering will occur only in the fifth year. If there are not a lot of seeds, it is convenient to sow them in selected bowls with special lattice walls and the same bottom: such a design will not interfere with the free development of the hazel grouse’s root system.

Excessive moisture in the soil. If there is a large excess of moisture, the earth does not have time to ventilate well and the bulbs may rot, which means the plant will simply die.

Rodents. IN winter period, when rodents have nothing special to eat, hazel grouse bulbs can become food for them. In order for the plant to remain undamaged, it can be planted in a circle with daffodils, and they, in turn, are good at repelling mice.

Freezing in winter. Hazel grouse is a fairly frost-resistant plant, but in winters with little snow it is advisable to cover its bulbs. This is especially important if the bulbs were brought from a warmer climate and grown there. And in early spring the cover can be removed.


Proper placement of hazel grouse

Reproduction of hazel grouse occurs by bulbs, vegetatively or by seeds; children are formed extremely rarely. Seeds are usually sown in open ground either autumn or spring. Seedlings will begin to bloom on average in the fifth year (but it is possible in the second or seventh - it all depends on the type and health of the seeds). For vegetative propagation, the bulbs are usually replanted every two to three years and dug up in June-July.

Until the next planting in the ground, peeled bulbs are stored in a cool place, perhaps in peat chips or sawdust: their integumentary scales are very juicy and weak, and therefore dry out quickly. Bulbs are usually planted in August-September, planting, as already mentioned, the largest bulbs to a depth of approximately 15 cm. In order to transplant to a new place, you need to dig up the hazel grouse immediately after they have flowered and the leaves have fallen off.

When the bulbs have already been dried from the soil and their own greenery, they are placed for some storage in a dark, cool place. And when young roots appear on them (usually by the end of summer), this means that the hazel grouse is asking to go into the ground - it needs to be replanted urgently.


Growing hazel grouse - basic rules

All varieties of hazel grouse are grown in sunny or semi-shaded areas. The soil must be light and loose, fertile and with good drainage. It must be remembered that before planting the site requires careful preparation. To do this, dig up the soil (depth of at least 25-30 cm), add compost, peat and rotted manure, and if the soil is heavy, then coarse sand.

During the growing season, during the driest time, the plants must not be forgotten to be watered and loosened. The soil should be consistently moderately moist, but this moisture should not be allowed to stagnate. For fertilizing, you can use mineral and organic fertilizers twice a year: the first time - in early spring, during the period of so-called regrowth, with mineral fertilizer, where nitrogen predominates, and the second time - with full mineral fertilizer already during flowering. Rotted manure, compost or wood ash work well.

The number of hazel grouse transplants depends on their species - every year - four years. The bulbs are dug out after the above-ground mass has completely dried (for many species this happens in June). To prevent the bulbs from getting lost, their location is marked in advance.

Before planting, hazel grouse are stored in a dry and warm place that is well ventilated, and for the winter after planting they are covered with dry leaves, spruce branches, peat, etc.

Hazel grouse capable of flowering: care

Caring for hazel grouse is not so difficult: in dry weather it must be watered and fed with complete fertilizer once or twice a season. In June-July, when the above-ground part of the bulb (the plant itself) dies, it is dug up and stored in a dry and warm place. You can plant them in the ground in September, but don’t forget to cover them for the winter.