How to protect garden roses from frost. How to prepare roses for winter in the garden. How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Content

With the arrival of autumn, rose lovers begin pre-winter work in their gardens. Heat-loving plants require special shelters. Experienced gardeners know that caring for roses in the fall and preparing for winter has its own rules and deadlines. Depending on the climate, the dates may vary by a week up or down.

Biological features

Preparation for winter includes several stages. The first thing to do is to stop the growth of the plants. With a long warm period, roses continue to create new green shoots that will simply die in winter. In addition, the consumption of food during rapid growth increases, and the roses will go into the winter weakened. Caring for roses in the fall should bring the plant to a dormant state. The lignification of the stems and the accumulation of carbon by the bushes contribute to better tolerance of winter cold.

Do you need autumn feeding

Nitrogen fertilizers enhance the growth of green mass. Therefore, most gardeners stop applying nitrogen as early as August. In order for rose bushes to accumulate enough strength for wintering, it is necessary to feed them with potash and phosphorus compounds. This will allow the branches and stems of plants to stock up on carbohydrates and, when frost occurs, create a protective layer of sugars and fats. It is worth fearing frequent thaws that prevent plants from falling asleep. Therefore, in each region, gardeners calculate the timing according to their observations. Weakened roses may die completely by spring.

In early September, watering and loosening of bushes stops. The last top dressing is carried out with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. All attention is paid to the preparation of the roots. A powerful root system will withstand and save the bush if at least one dormant bud remains on it. By limiting the access of oxygen to the roots of roses in the fall, you can significantly help the plant strengthen the root system.

autumn pruning

Pruning rose bushes at different stages of the growing season has different goals. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out to enhance the growth of young shoots of roses. Summer pruning consists in removing faded buds and growing a bush. And in the fall, roses are pruned to prepare for winter dormancy. Therefore, old and diseased branches are cut out after the onset of a stable sub-zero temperature, at least at night. This will keep the rose bushes from throwing new shoots and keep the flowers intact.

Pruning of faded buds is not recommended in September. Ripening fruits help better lignification of trunks. And only in October, and in some regions even later, is it worth cutting the buds and carrying out sanitary cleaning of the bushes. Before sheltering roses for the winter, it is better to treat plant sections with antifungal compounds. This will help to avoid diseases of the bushes in the spring.

Park roses do not need pruning. Their preparation consists in removing old buds and young shoots.

No matter how sorry the thick green twigs are, you can’t leave them. Temperature drops in autumn lead to the fact that thawed young bushes suffer from fungal diseases. A gardener who has shown pity for an unprepared young growth risks losing the entire bush.

Preparing roses for shelter

Experienced gardeners know that you need to choose the material and method of shelter in accordance with the conditions on the site and the climate of the area. What is good in the southern regions is not at all suitable for Siberia. Different varieties require different ways of sheltering roses for the winter.

Many gardeners spud plants before shelter for the winter. Hilling is carried out to warm the roots and lower part of the shoots. This helps to keep dormant buds.

No need to rake the bushes with earth from the flower bed. The bare roots will freeze, and the whole bush will die with them. It is better to fill in fairly high heaps of dry, loose soil or compost. The soil cover should cover the shoots to a height of about 30-35 cm. It is advisable to carry out hilling in 2 stages. In the first half of October, you can cover the shoots from unexpected frosts by about half. And in November, completely cover with earthen mounds.

Climbing roses in autumn, before hilling, should be laid on a bed of pine spruce branches and secured with hairpins. Some gardeners sprinkle not only roots, but also powerful branches of climbing roses. This protects them from freezing and contributes to the preservation of more kidneys.

Shelter methods

Shelter with spruce branches

The most popular method among gardeners in the southern regions. Cheap and affordable material can be assembled independently. Branches of pine, spruce, and sometimes oak are laid in a layer of at least 10 cm. Under such a shelter, roses do not get wet when the snow slowly melts. It turns out that the snow cover covers the bushes with a small air gap. You should not use this method of sheltering roses for the winter in areas with severe winters.

frame shelter

This method is suitable for those who grow roses in a permanent place of residence. Warm frames protect plants well even in severe frosts, but require constant ventilation in spring and during autumn surprises.

Before covering roses with a frame, it is necessary to trim the stiffened bushes to the same height. Young branches can be bent to the ground. The main thing is that the shelter does not touch the bushes. Otherwise, fungal diseases may occur, and the infection will spread to all flowers.

Building a frame shelter is not difficult. For insulation, you will need cardboard boxes and polyethylene or covering material. You can use the old roofing felt. It can withstand the weight of snow masses well and does not allow plants to remain without air.

With the help of wooden poles or wire arches, a frame is set up in the image of a gable roof of a house.
Boxes are stacked in several layers and fixed.
The next layer is a covering material. It is necessary to strengthen it so that it is possible later to close the frame from the end sides.

While there is a threat of autumn warming, you should not close the frame completely. And only with the onset of stable frosts of about 10 degrees, you need to close the winter house and strengthen the material tightly from all sides. This must be done so that the wind does not rip off the protection.

Multilayer shelter

If autumn is capricious and pleases with either warmth or frost, it is better not to risk it by immediately arranging a warm wintering. You can prepare in several stages. If the materials for shelter are ready, then the frosts will not be taken by surprise. With an unstable decrease in temperature, cover the bushes with a double layer of spruce branches. In rainy autumn weather, you can also cover the top with a layer of roofing material. This will protect the plants from excess moisture.

Unlike most winter roads, roses do not like to overwinter in wet soil. The next layer is a fur coat from a mixture of sawdust and peat. Loose peat is suitable for these purposes. It freezes quickly, forming an impenetrable crust, and thaws slowly during thaws. This is important in regions where winter weather is not stable, with frequent temperature fluctuations.

Shelter with shields

This method of sheltering roses for the winter is suitable for almost all climatic zones. Plywood or plank shields hold snow well, protect against excess dampness and do not interfere with air access.

Bushes for this method of shelter begin to prepare in October.

About 10 days before sheltering roses for the winter, the bushes are sprayed with a mixture of washing powder, copper sulfate and water. After a few days, re-treatment with a solution of iron sulfate is carried out. The exact dosage can be found on the product packaging.

A couple of days before the installation of the shelter, the soil between the bushes is covered with a layer of wood ash. This helps to dry out the area around the roses and prevents powdery mildew.

Shields are made from pieces of board up to one and a half meters long. The height of the shield is not more than 80 cm. It must be installed in dry weather.

Strengthen the shields with pegs every 30 cm and fasten in pairs with planks.
Set the second row at a distance of 15 cm from the first.
Cover the space between rows with peat or soil.
From above, close the structure with lutrasil or any other special material.

Rose bloom is a real pleasure for the grower. You can endlessly admire the bizarre curves of rose petals and their shades, inhaling the delicate scent of a rose. But the experienced owner of a beautiful flower knows that in order to guarantee this pleasure for several years, a noble and sensitive plant must be properly cared for. With the onset of autumn, special attention is required. Preparing for winter in caring for a rose is a crucial moment for a grower. The growth and development of the flower next year depends on the correct provision of wintering conditions. When preparing roses for winter, two points are important: first, how to prune roses for the winter and second, how to cover roses for the winter. About everything in order.

In order for your favorite roses to endure harsh conditions and low temperatures well, you should prepare the plants for winter in advance.

The main autumn types of work on the care and preparation of roses for winter:

The plant is gradually reduced, and in the second half of August, watering is stopped.
Roses are delicate flowers. Their young shoots are not able to maintain viability, so it is necessary to "help" the plant to stop the emergence of new shoots, to begin the process of lignification of the main shoots. To do this, from the last week of August, we adjust the top dressing. We make sure that nitrogen is not present in the fertilizers used, and potassium and phosphorus, on the contrary, we give preference to during this period.
At the same time, we admire roses only in the flowerbed, we do not allow cutting. It is necessary that the plant completes the vegetative stage, from budding to drying. Do not rush to remove faded buds! The ripening of seeds after flowering is a signal for a rose: winter is approaching, the flowering of this season is over.
Foliage removal is another must-have element that includes preparing roses in autumn for winter. Roses are not deciduous plants, so the florist removes the leaves. Whether you carefully cut off the foliage or carefully cut the leaves - it does not matter, any method is allowed. The main thing is not to leave foliage on the plant, which can lead to an infectious disease.
Continuing prevention, the bushes and soil are being processed. Any fungicide is used for the plant, you can also use a solution of iron sulfate. Thoroughly clean the soil under the rose bush, leaving no weeds, fallen leaves. After that, the soil can also be treated with a fungicide.

We perform cropping

Preparing roses for winter: pruning

An important step in preparing a rose bush for the winter period is pruning roses in the fall. A few shoots left after pruning are easier to endure a cold winter than a whole bush. Plants that were left to overwinter whole were later weakened and often subjected to diseases. It should be carried out in compliance with certain rules so as not to harm the flower.

The optimal time for pruning is the third decade of October. It is desirable to carry out the procedure in dry, sunny and calm weather.

Tools are prepared in advance: they sharpen pruners and a hacksaw, which is used for the thickest shoots.

After carefully examining the bush, it is necessary to cut off all the upper parts that may be susceptible to bacterial diseases. If the plant has small unblown buds, they are also cut off, like diseased branches.

It is necessary to cut out young stems that are not stiff. It is these shoots, if left, that can rot, and then infect the entire bush with fungal diseases.

So, the strongest, most powerful and well-developed shoots are left for the winter. It is enough to leave 3 to 5 shoots for wintering, trying to ensure that they are evenly spaced.

Video "Pruning and sheltering roses for the winter"

Rules for pruning roses for the winter

Inexperienced flower growers often ask the question, how to cut roses for the winter? Experts distinguish such types of pruning roses for the winter:

Short.

For polyanthus (many-flowered, forming a strong bush) roses, short pruning is used. Shoots are removed almost completely, leaving only the base for the winter (2-3 cm from each shoot). At the same time, they make sure that sleeping rose buds also remain (2-3 per bush).

Medium

For hybrid tea roses, medium to moderate pruning is used. Weak shoots are removed completely. The height of the left stiff shoots is 25-30 cm, the number of dormant buds on them is 4-5.

Long

In preparation for the winter of park, English and Bengal roses, a long or sparing pruning is performed. The same species is suitable for tall tea-hybrid roses. At the same time, only a third of the stem is removed, keeping from 8 to 10 buds on the remaining part.
Regardless of the method, when pruning, an oblique cut is made over a kidney that has swollen but not sprouted. The distance between such a kidney and the cut point is from 0.5 to 1 cm.
Pruning is completed by processing the shoots left for the winter. To do this, use any available disinfectant. After processing, hilling of rose bushes is carried out and proceed to the next stage of preparation - sheltering roses.

We cover roses for the winter

How to cover roses for the winter

In order for the roses in the garden to feel comfortable in winter, safely winter and endure the winter cold, they need to be covered. Roses cover when the cool weather finally sets in, and during the week the temperature does not rise above +5 °. The rose can also tolerate light frosts.
Consider how to save roses in winter. You can hide roses in different ways.

prikopka

Having chosen this method, soil soil is used, first of all, to cover roses. The bush is first spudded to a height of 20 to 40 cm. Some gardeners completely bury the entire bush. But after the first layer of shelter - hilling - you can use dry leaves, wood chips or sawdust, as well as spruce branches. They cover the upper parts of the shoots, which, after hilling, were above the ground.

Air (dry) shelter

With this method, the roots of the plant are also insulated with a layer of foliage or needles. And the bush cut off for the winter is preserved with the help of a specially constructed structure, a kind of frame or a protective dome. Its purpose is to protect the rose from wind and frost by creating a suitable air environment inside.

A frame structure is installed above each bush at a height of up to 0.5 m. You can also build a frame over the entire flower bed or rose garden.

In practice, a variety of types of frame structures are used: pyramidal, spherical, cubic. For the frame, you can use metal rods or arcs used in garden beds.

Having built the frame, you need to fix the material for insulation on it. A suitable material may be kraft paper, burlap with a subsequent layer of film. In recent years, gardeners are increasingly using non-woven fabric as a heater and are satisfied with the results of its use. The main task is to carefully and securely fix the insulation so that during windy weather and precipitation the structure protects the rose from rain and snow.

Wrap

Tall roses can be covered for the winter in a different way by wrapping each plant in a non-woven fabric - lutrasil. A metal rod in this case will also be needed. It will act as a support for the stem. The wrapping begins with the hilling of the roots. Then the shoots of the rose are wrapped with insulation and properly fixed, securing the cocoon from below to prevent access to cold air.

Video "How to cover roses for the winter"

Features of sheltering roses of various types

Experienced gardeners have developed rules for how to cover times for the winter. Applying their advice will help winterize your roses too.

climbing rose

Climbing roses do not prune their stems. Shelter of a climbing rose for the winter requires only pinching healthy shoots before wintering, and only diseased shoots are cut out. Long lashes of roses require careful handling. Preparing for winter, the shoots of climbing roses are sprinkled with earth. But before the whips are on the ground, you need to prepare a place for them. To do this, sand and spruce branches are poured onto the ground in layers. The whips removed from the support are carefully placed on the prepared “pillow”, and then the spruce branches are used again to cover the rose. The procedure is completed with a film, which is fixed over the spruce branches.

You can make a tourniquet out of lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective canopy made of wood or lutrasil is arranged on top, and then also covered with a film.

park rose

Many varieties of park roses are frost-resistant, so they do not require special wrapping. However, young bushes of park roses need to be covered for the winter. Park rose shelter for the winter is performed with unfavorable weather forecasts, the expectation of abnormal frosts.
The most suitable for a park rose is a digging or dry shelter.

hybrid tea rose

A hybrid tea rose will tolerate low temperatures well in winter with standard methods of preparing for the cold season. Standard hilling or frame construction will help the rose bush to overwinter. The use of spruce branches increases the comfort level for hybrid tea roses in winter.

Video "Shelter for the winter of a climbing rose"

Growing location matters

Rosa has her fans in all corners of our country. In this case, the place where the flower grows does not matter. But when preparing for winter, the region where the rose grows cannot be ignored. Different climatic and natural conditions, different timing of the onset of cold weather make their own adjustments to the standard procedures for preparing a plant for winter.

Shelter of roses for the winter in the Moscow region is usually carried out at the end of October.

Other dates are also possible, the main thing is the onset of stable temperatures within a week (+ 5-7 °).

But the shelter of roses for the winter of roses in the Urals is carried out in September, since the air temperature drops earlier in the region.

Ural winters are more severe, so roses require a multi-layer cover that will help save the plant during severe frosts. However, with the onset of thaws, such a “blanket” can lead to the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the plant. The following method of preparing roses for winter in the Urals helps to avoid this. Prepared for wintering and spudded shoots are gently bent so that they take on an arched shape. Topped with spruce branches, foliage, cut raspberry shoots, etc. The resulting natural greenhouse is covered from above, using a tarpaulin, roofing material, synthetic materials. The ends are left ajar, allowing ventilation inside the shelter.

Separately growing roses can be saved by building a special box from cardboard boxes. Around the dug-in bush, cardboard walls about 50 cm high are made of boxes, so that the embedded shoots do not rise above the cardboard walls. The roots of the rose and the empty space in the box around the bush are covered with dry foliage, needles, straw, shavings, sawdust, covered with spruce branches. A frame with lutrasil is installed on top of the box with a rose. Such a structure helps to preserve roses in the conditions of the Ural winter.

Having become acquainted with the rules for preparing roses for winter, you will be able to create comfortable conditions for the plant. This means that next summer you will again enjoy the beautiful color and delicate aroma of your favorite flower.

Dormant seedlings should be stored at -4° to +3°. When creating such conditions, the rose will be at rest and will be perfectly preserved until spring.

Depending on the capabilities of the grower, you can use the cellar, the basement of the house, the loggia or the refrigerator for storage. We'll take a closer look at each option below.

Cellar or cellar

Before lowering seedlings into the basement of a house or cottage with a low positive temperature or a cellar, they must first be properly prepared. If you purchased roses with an open root system, then all the roots must be carefully examined, damaged and rotted places cut out, and the sections treated with brilliant green.

Attention! Such treatment will help to avoid damage to seedlings by fungal and bacterial diseases during storage.

After that, the seedlings are wrapped in paper or newspapers and placed in a plastic bag, in which there must be holes for air access. During storage, planting material must be periodically checked to prevent it from drying out or waterlogging.

Loggia or balcony

With this method of storage, seedlings are processed in the same way as before laying them in the cellar or basement of the house. After that, they are wrapped in paper, wrapped in plastic bags and put in cardboard boxes, which can then be placed on a loggia or glazed balcony, where a low positive temperature is maintained throughout the winter.

Attention! If during the winter the temperature on the loggia drops below -5 °, then the boxes with planting material must be additionally insulated. For these purposes, you can use an old blanket.

Fridge

If it is planned to overexpose a small number of seedlings, 1 or 2, until spring, then a refrigerator can be used for these purposes. The preparation of roses for such storage is carried out in the same way as for storing them in the cellar of the house or on the loggia. Properly processed and packaged planting material is placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator, usually there is the most suitable temperature for storage.

Storage of seedlings that have started to grow

If the seedling has sprouts, and it started to grow, then it must be planted as soon as possible in a pot or any other suitable container. Before planting, they must be soaked for a day in water with the addition of humate. After that, the long roots of the seedlings are cut and they begin to plant them in containers. When planting, it is very important not to bury the grafting site, it should be at the level of the soil or slightly above it. Now pots with seedlings can be placed at home in the brightest and coolest place.

By the way! The planting material of roses is very demanding on air humidity, therefore, after planting on seedlings, it is recommended to put on a transparent plastic bag, this will help the roses to quickly adapt to room conditions.

Winter storage of rose bushes

Flower growers from Siberia, the Urals and other regions with harsh winters resort to this method of storage. Every autumn, they face the question of how to preserve roses in winter, so that next year they can again please with their flowering.

In winter in Siberia, the air temperature can drop below -35°, and the spring can be protracted with late return frosts. Therefore, garden roses, especially climbing ones, will not be able to winter in open ground under such conditions. Experienced flower growers prefer to dig them out in the fall and place them for further storage in the cellar or basement of a house or cottage. Below is a detailed answer to the question of how to keep roses in winter in Siberia.

Digging and preparing for storage

In the conditions of Siberia, the preparation of roses begins at the end of September, they are cut off, while leaving shoots no more than 50 cm high (in the case of climbing roses, shoots are left up to 70 cm long). Then all leaves must be removed from them, treated with a fungicide solution and dug up. The branches of the dug bushes must be tied with twine so that they do not stick out in different directions and take up less space during storage.

By the way! For these purposes, buckets of various building plasters and putties are very suitable.

After that, containers with roses must be covered with earth, so that it completely covers the root system of plants and watered. The bushes prepared in this way are lowered for wintering in the basement or cellar, where a low positive temperature is maintained throughout the winter.

When growing roses (especially climbing ones) in Siberia or the Urals, only in this way can they be guaranteed to be preserved until spring.

Winter storage of rose cuttings

Planting material for roses is quite expensive, so some flower growers use vegetative propagation techniques using cuttings. In autumn, during pruning of plants, a large number of stem tops are collected, which can serve as excellent material for further reproduction.

In a trench or prikope in the country. For this method of storage, a trench is dug about 20 cm deep, its bottom is lined with straw or agrospan, and cuttings are placed there. From above, they are covered with another layer of covering material, and the trench is covered with earth.
In the cellar. With this method of storage, the cuttings are tied into bundles, stacked in boxes and covered with sand.
In a cold greenhouse. This method will allow not only to save the cuttings until spring, but also to root them. To do this, a hole is dug with a depth of about 70 cm, a layer consisting of hay or straw is laid on its bottom, on which a peat layer is poured, earth is already poured on it. The approximate thickness of each layer should be at least 20 cm.

Cuttings are planted in a greenhouse prepared in this way, after which everything is well watered. After planting work is completed, a framework of arcs is constructed above the greenhouse, which is covered with agrospan in several layers. Instead of a structure made of covering material and arcs, a greenhouse frame can be used.

Attention! When planting cuttings, the following points must be observed: their length should be no more than 10 cm (3-4 internodes), they should be planted at an angle of 45 °, each cutting should be buried up to 2 buds.

All of the above methods have their advantages and disadvantages, so there can be no right or wrong method here. Each grower himself chooses one or another method that is most suitable for his climatic conditions.

Your brownie.

Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, not always and not everywhere the natural and climatic conditions are favorable for growing this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to beginner gardeners. About what roses are recommended to cover for the winter, the features of shelter of various varieties and varieties, the optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational ways, will be covered in our article.

When to cover roses for the winter

It is very difficult to name certain dates when you can cover roses for the winter, because it primarily depends on the weather conditions of your region and its climatic features.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when stable sub-zero temperatures come, and these should not be single frosts, but it is desirable that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this already on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it is better to take even the average daily temperature), it should stabilize at around -5 ..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to keep an eye on the weather forecast all the time.

Note! If, along with a decrease in temperature, snow also fell, then you can cover directly in the snow.

But the approximate terms of shelter in the regions can still be called. So, in the middle lane (Moscow region), roses cover around the end of October and the first half of November, as well as in the Leningrad region and the Volga region. In the northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the South of Russia - in the very late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and it rains.

Video: when to cover roses for the winter

What roses need to be covered for the winter

park roses, as a rule, very rarely shelter for the winter, tk. they possess high enough winter hardiness.

Park

But floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses cover necessarily. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to hide.

Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut “to zero”, but if okuchka was sufficient, then the chance to find living branches under it is quite high.

Hybrid Tea

Video: shelter hybrid tea roses

The specifics of shelter climbing roses

Obviously, it is difficult enough to cover climbing roses. because of their great height.

The technique of sheltering climbing roses is as follows:

Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine (twine) to make a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After that, already under its own weight, a sheaf (bundle) of roses easily leans to the ground.

Video: shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Features of the shelter of standard roses

It is not so easy to cover standard roses.

The specificity of the shelter of this variety is as follows: you dig your rose from one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arcs. You fall asleep (spud) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the stem itself.

By the way! Some especially scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the whole rose with covering material, also put a frame on top, which is also covered.

Video: how to cover a standard rose for the winter

But it’s best not to bend the bushes (especially adults, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including a bole.

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering roses, it is necessary to carry out the following measures to prepare the "Queen of Flowers" for winter:

Feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Spend autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

Slices cover with garden pitch or even better pasta "RanNet".
Pick up all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and breaking the leaves), as it is a source of infections.
Treat for diseases and pests. For example, you can sprinkle copper-containing preparations(copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oksikh. and etc.

Important! If you cover roses with leaves, or the plant was sick, then treatment is required.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone has a different land, climate (weather). For example, some flower growers believe that an okuchka in the middle lane (Moscow region) is a boon for roses, because they fade much more often than they freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often simmer.

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - then rains, then thaws, it is better to put arcs, throw a spunbond on top, and leave vents on the sides. As soon as the cold sets in, the vents should be closed.

shelter.

Important! Shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, and not one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.

Covering with earth or hilling

The most "ancient" way to cover roses is to sprinkle with earth.

However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, even in late autumn), roses under a layer of earth simmer.

But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.

At first, you just lightly spud the base of the bush with earth, and already with the onset of stable frosts, you fall asleep and the bush itself (but preferably with dry earth), making a mound about 30 cm high.

Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with earth, then, if possible, add more snow when you clear the paths. So your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.

Without arcs (air-dry)

To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered again, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches, last year's semi-dry ones will do.

Important! Optional and no need to cut branches spruce branches right from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.

If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then instead of it you can use branches from pruning shrubs(only not sick), and even better branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.

Please note! Hay will not work, because. it dies and under it mice start up. As well as sawdust, because they get wet during thaws, and when frost hits, they freeze and spoil the root collar, it turns black - it simmers in an icy cocoon.

Step-by-step instructions for sheltering roses for the winter without arcs (on branches):

On arcs (air-dry)

Step-by-step instructions for sheltering a rose for the winter on arcs (air-dry method):

Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials

Interesting! Covering material is necessary to protect against the icy wind in the pre-winter season and from sunburn in the spring.

Its installation on the frame (arcs or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.

Generally, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then the wintering will be excellent.

film cover

A lot of people use film for shelter. However, you can cover roses with foil only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in the very early spring (or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply warm up. In addition, the frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can be torn).

By the way! If you are a resident in the rainy region then over spunbond it is recommended to cover the roses with a film on the arcs, but it is important not to close the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.

Note! In all other cases, it is impossible to cover a rose with a film, it does not breathe!

Shelter with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)

The advantage of covering with a non-woven material is the fact that, despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, under such a cover it still practically does not accumulate, most of it rolls off. Thus, under the agrofibre, the most optimal mode of humidity and air is maintained.

If you have found a 30, 40 micron spunbond, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).

Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. Inside, the earth will begin to thaw earlier, there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used in beds (strawberry) or flower beds so that weeds do not grow.

Video: sheltering roses for the winter with spruce branches and spunbond

Bags of sugar

It is quite budgetary to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags, they practically do not let moisture through and breathe well (thanks to weaving structure).

Advice! It is quite convenient to put bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.

Shelter with cardboard

Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (this is immediately a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so it is necessary to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (in 2 layers) or film.

And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and the final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the shelter breathes).

Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film

Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, the following rules should be followed.

Between shelter and rose shoots should be space - air space, it will protect the flowers from the cold.

Cover must be breathable, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.

Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.

Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden

Features of sheltering roses in different regions

Depending on the climatic features of the growing region of the “Queen of Flowers”, there are some small nuances for sheltering roses for the winter.

In the south of Russia

If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to spud roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or just earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, then new ones will grow from the neck.

In the middle lane (Moscow region), in the Urals and in Siberia, everything is different.

In the middle lane (Moscow region)

The middle lane is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle lane (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.

In the Urals and Siberia

In principle, the shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to the shelter in the middle lane, but amateur flower growers advise to do without hilling, using spruce branches (rather controversial), but simply to make an air-dry shelter on arcs, pulling, for example, geotextiles from above in 1 layer (density 150).

Video: shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia

How to save roses in winter in very cold northern regions

Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in the frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where in winter it can be up to -50 and below.

Under such climatic conditions, it is better plant roses in a pot and for the winter to lower into the cellar or basement.

For normal storage in the cellar, a very low temperature should be maintained all winter - no higher than + 4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. At a higher temperature, roses will begin to grow and stretch from lack of light.

Winter care for roses in pots in the cellar is as follows: first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out “to death”, which means that it should be periodically watered in a dry way, putting snow in the pot.

In the spring, gradually begin to bring out into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.

So that even for novice gardeners, flowers of tenderness and beauty endure the winter without problems and delight in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in their shelter for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the characteristics of various types and varieties of roses, the optimal time for shelter, as well as the natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable methods of protection during thaws and frosts.

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Important! If you you do not want to under the shelter of a rose gnawed by mice, then it is necessary to put special sent decoys or alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).

In contact with

A rose is a luxurious decoration of any garden or summer cottage, it has always been so, it will always be so, it is not for nothing that it is called the queen of flowers. How to keep roses in the garden in winter, how to cover them so that with the onset of the new season they continue to delight us? Consider ways to protect roses from frost, all stages of preparing them for winter.

How to hide, photo:

This is a rather delicate and whimsical culture, if the bushes are not covered for the winter, the likelihood that they will die is very high. If the preparation of roses for winter was carried out incorrectly, the plant was poorly insulated, the chances of freezing increase. Starting the process, you need to take into account the variety of the flower, its frost resistance. The most "freezing" groups are tea, hybrid species, some climbing varieties. A number of varieties of Floribunda, low species are more "hardened", withstand the harsh climate in winter. But among the park representatives you can find the real "walruses" that can spend the winter without shelter.

Autumn pruning of roses and shelter for the winter is perhaps one of the most important procedures that ensures harmonious development, abundant flowering with the advent of the new season. Densely planted bushes tolerate cold more easily, it is more convenient to cover them all at once with one sheet. Upright tall representatives are somewhat more difficult to wrap up, climbing ones too, but in any case, the work will be justified.

Shelter of a climbing bush, photo:

So you can cover the climbing beauty for the winter

What work includes preparing roses for winter

It is worth thinking about this process even in the summer, or rather, at the end of the summer, when vigilant gardeners stop feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers. Small amounts of potash additives with the advent of autumn will not interfere, they will help the plant strengthen the branches and trunk before the upcoming cold weather. By this time, you should also stop loosening the earth near the trunk circle, so as not to provoke a new round of shoot growth.

Preparing rose bushes for winter means pruning them. This will be discussed in more detail below. Everything superfluous should be removed from under the bushes: garbage, fallen leaves, the remains of grass. Cleaning is done not only to maintain cleanliness, but also to ensure that plant debris does not become a haven for harmful fungi. After this, it is recommended to spray the plants with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or ferrous sulfate diluted with water (3%).

Preparing roses for winter also involves hilling them - this procedure improves the aeration of the root system. Even a small 20-30 cm mound will protect the roots from the cold, help the soil better retain air.

A mound of earth at the roots - in the south this is enough so that the bushes do not freeze

You should think about sheltering the bushes already in October, towards the end of the month - when the first frosts declare themselves in your region. How to cover roses for the winter? It will be better if by this time the air temperature becomes relatively stable, approximately -5°C. The plant will survive a kind of "hardening", at a higher temperature index it is not worth warming the roses, since additional heat can provoke the growth of shoots. Moreover, earlier shelter is fraught with rotting of the root system, again, due to lack of air. To warm the bushes, choose a dry frosty day, the soil should not be wet (this is important!) - to avoid the activation of fungi.

What covering material for roses for the winter is better to use? Here the choice is quite wide: thick polyethylene film, spunbond, geotextile, lutrasil, dry leaves, burlap, cardboard, plywood, spruce branches. The variety and characteristics of the type of roses determine the method of shelter. Some representatives have enough insulation from coniferous spruce branches, while others will have to mount a hut made of cardboard or boards with plywood. There are many ways to insulate, let's look at the most basic, "universal" options.

Shelter with spruce branches, photo:

Cover the baby with spruce branches

How to cover roses to keep them in winter?

Whatever the material of the shelter, you should always leave free air space between it and the plant. Damping out is no less dangerous than freezing, and with the onset of a thaw (if the cover is too tight), the plants run the risk of being banned or getting wet.

Air dry shelter

This method will provide the bushes with high-quality aeration, while the temperature under the shelter will be kept at about the same level. You will have to mount a frame (canopy) over the plant, it can be made from plywood sheets or board fragments, and then cover the resulting structure with a special covering material or plastic wrap. Covering material for roses for the winter should be fixed to the ground with something heavy (bricks, stones or metal staples). Such a "house" must be very strong, because it will have to withstand the weight of snow masses. Its dimensions, and especially the height, must exceed the dimensions of the bush. With the onset of spring, you can fold the material from one side (or lift it from below), thereby ventilating the plant.

Warming with spruce branches

Lapnik (coniferous branches) is an excellent natural covering material for roses for the winter, which will cost you absolutely free. Around the beginning of November, you should stock up on spruce branches. After harvesting, pruning bushes, coniferous branches should cover the ground near the trunk circle. The shoots that remain after pruning must be carefully wrapped with a wide fabric rope. If the plant has long branches, then after tying them, they should be carefully bent to the ground, as far as their flexibility allows (without the threat of a break). Fasten the branches with wide metal staples (bend pieces of dense wire like a hairpin), throw spruce branches on top. The main thing - do not forget to cover the ground with spruce branches in the place where the ground part of the bush will lie. This is especially true for climbing varieties.

Fixing the climbing variety, photo:

If you are in doubt, you can additionally cover the flower with non-woven material directly on top of the spruce branches, secure the ends of the shelter with heavy objects. In the spring, you can raise them, thereby providing the bush with proper ventilation. Low growing roses how to prepare for winter? Such bushes should be spudded beforehand (peat can be used), and abundantly covered with the same spruce branches on top. After the snow falls, a snowdrift can be formed over the branches

Shelter of a small bush, photo:

The use of agrofibre, spunbond, geotextile

This material is widely used in various fields related to plants. Covering the bushes with them for the winter is an excellent solution, since it passes air well, at the same time protects against frost, and prevents condensation from accumulating during a thaw. How to use this covering material for roses for the winter? Again, it is better to make a frame: metal arcs or fragments of a chain-link mesh are suitable for creating a “visor” over a shrub. The ends of such a frame are securely fixed in the soil, the covering material is folded in half (this is an important point!) And the structure is covered. The edges of the coating are fixed in the ways described above - with the help of heavy objects or a long board (it will be convenient to lift it up in the spring for ventilation).

Frame over a small bush, photo:

How to cover roses for the winter if they are small (for example, dwarf varieties)? For these purposes, cardboard boxes can be used as a frame, having previously made holes in them. Plastic vegetable containers or baskets that have become unusable can also be used quite successfully. Any of these structures can be covered with agrofiber on top, fixed by the methods described above. To protect standard crops, you can use jute bags: cut off their bottom, put them on a plant, tie them from below (where the crown begins), cover them with dry foliage or better with spruce branches, tie them again, but from above. The trunk can also be wrapped with burlap, and then re-wrap the resulting cocoon with lutrasil (for reliability).

Which roses should not be covered for the winter? Park crops have sufficient winter hardiness to do without a protective coating in winter. In fact, some experts argue that the “park” classification as such does not exist, supposedly this is the definition of the most unpretentious varieties.

According to reviews on the relevant forums, these are: "Alba Mediland", a hybrid of Rugosa, Spinozissima (prickly rosehip), winter-hardy varieties of Canadian and American roses, etc. The so-called scale of winter hardiness of these flowers has three levels, which are determined by numbers: absolute winter hardiness (3- I zone), winter hardiness (4th zone), average winter hardiness (4-5th zone). If you buy seedlings, then there will definitely be an indicator figure on the label.

Preparing roses for winter - pruning

This procedure is mandatory for most varieties. The exception is climbing small-flowered species, park, ground cover, as well as those representatives that give color once a year. Formative spring pruning is recommended for all varieties, but at the moment we are talking about the autumn procedure. Pruning roses in autumn is aimed at maintaining the vitality of the plant, strengthening it, and increasing frost resistance. Properly carried out removal of old branches contributes to the formation of healthy, strong shoots, as well as the formation of new buds in the next season.

How to prune roses in autumn? This procedure should be subjected to both old bushes and new young bushes. Unripe shoots, blossoming flowers, weak or diseased branches are subject to cutting. All of the listed plant parts, if not removed, can become a source of rot, fungi, and various diseases. After autumn pruning, 3 or 5 of the strongest healthy shoots should remain on the bush. All removed parts should be destroyed immediately. Old branches, stems that are already 3 years old, multiple lateral processes, shoots with dry bark are also subject to removal. Pruning is relevant before sheltering plants for the winter - under the insulating structure, the “trimmed” bush will be much more comfortable.

How to prune roses in autumn? There are several rules that are best followed - for example, the cutting tool must be very sharp. A blunt knife or pruner will leave a ragged cut, injure the bark, and the damaged area can become a source of penetration of pathogens. Rough old branches are best removed with a hacksaw with a new sharp blade. The cut should be made above the kidney (which has not yet germinated), retreating from it about 1 cm. Pay attention to the presence of healthy white wood at the cut site, the cut itself should be made as if at an angle. The approximate time for pruning is the beginning of November, for this, choose a sunny, fine day.

Short crop, photo:

Before cutting roses for the winter, be sure to disinfect the cutting tools (you can even use a solution of potassium permanganate). Lubricate the cut points with garden pitch. And one more thing - one should not forget about “balance”, one should not get too carried away with circumcision. Ideally, the dimensions of the root system should correspond to the volume of the remaining ground part after pruning! Otherwise, the plant's nutrition system will be disrupted, it will get sick or even die. When starting the procedure, take into account the varietal characteristics, specifics, and the speed of its growth. Thus, one of three types of pruning can be applied to each individual bush.

How to prune roses in autumn:

Short pruning (heavy) is recommended for varieties of multi-flowered polyanthus roses, miniature varieties, tea and hybrid representatives. Climbing crops ramblers should also be subjected to short pruning with the advent of autumn. After the procedure, only the base of the bush with a couple of dormant buds remains, all shoots, branches are removed.
Medium pruning (moderate) is aimed at enhancing the growth of fresh shoots with the advent of spring. With this method of pruning, the branches of the plant are shortened by 1.2 parts of their length. Weak stems are removed completely, short shoots (about 30 cm) with four or five buds are left at the base of the bush. This procedure is suitable for many medium-sized varieties, hybrid tea varieties, as well as pernepiano roses.
Long pruning (weak) allows you to leave high branches on the bushes, shortened by about two-thirds of the original length (only the upper segment is removed). About 8-9 buds are left on each shoot. This pruning method is recommended for tall hybrid-tea varieties, old English roses, single specimens, delicate Bengal roses. This procedure contributes to early flowering, however, with its regular use, roses begin to lose shape, the buds become smaller, and the number of flowers decreases.

Do climbing roses need to be pruned for the winter? Since this category of plants is a favorite of many summer gardeners, they should be mentioned separately. The shortening of the shoots of climbing varieties should be approached individually, taking into account the characteristics of their species subgroup.

They need to be cut very carefully, moderately, choosing the longest branches. As for dry, weakened, diseased or damaged shoots, as well as the remaining flowers or fruits, they are all subject to radical removal. Note that active shortening of branches in climbing representatives leads to the growth of multiple "empty" (non-flowering) shoots.

Now you will know how to properly prune roses for the winter. Summing up, it is worth clarifying that in Central Russia this procedure is best done from about the 20th of November. If there have been no frosts yet, do not even think about pruning, because otherwise buds will begin to sprout on the bushes. Frost will come - then get down to business. Don't forget to remove young green stems that haven't barked yet. At the first frost, they will die, and with the onset of heat, they will begin to rot, spread bacteria and fungi in an insulating cocoon. Put on a rough gardening glove, be sure to remove all foliage from the branches - this will make it easier for the bush to “breathe”.

It is not so important what kind of variety you grow on the site. The specifics of preparing this crop for winter is the same for all species: cleaning the soil from plant residues and debris, hilling (covering) the root neck, covering the ground along the trunk circle with foliage or spruce branches, laying the plant on the ground. You now know how to keep roses in the garden in winter, how to cover them. Lapnik, lutrasil or spunbond, durable polyethylene will not allow this delicate culture to freeze with the onset of frost. Shelter and pruning of roses for the winter is an important agrotechnical event, on which their health and beauty depend.

It will not be superfluous to view the so-called visual aid - how to cut roses in the fall, video:

To make it easier to cover the rose, bend the branches and secure them with stones.