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Every gardener dreams of getting a luxurious harvest. However, it often happens that within a couple of days after planting, the tomatoes become covered with spots, the leaves turn brown and curl. All the work is in vain! The root cause is hidden in late blight. The disease can threaten plantings not only in the greenhouse, but also in open soil.

The spores themselves have every chance of overwintering in the ground. It turns out that the fight must begin with soil disinfection. The question of how to treat a plantation occupies almost all gardeners. What is preferable to purchase and how to treat the land against late blight: chemicals, biological resources or turn to national methods? We will try to figure out how to accurately and competently treat the soil in order to save the tomato crop from late blight.

As a rule, tomato disease is activated in July and August, if daytime temperature changes are more pronounced. If the weather is dry, the development of late blight is inhibited.

The disease affects not only tomatoes, but also other crops. Bacteria fall to the ground, where they have every chance of being for a long time, until suitable conditions are created. Cold weather is not able to eliminate microspores either on plant debris or in the soil.

Symptoms

This fungal disease has specific symptoms. Dark spots appear on the leaves and fruits, they grow rapidly, destroying the crop and the plants themselves. Dark places are considered nothing more than mold colonies. In the right circumstances, it multiplies rapidly, and then spreads from garden to garden, destroying the crop.

A vegetable grower should know how to treat the soil against late blight. It is necessary to use the appropriate chemicals, to specifically destroy the affected plants, and, in addition, to work with the soil, which will make it possible to increase the natural protection of plants.

Root causes

The occurrence of late blight in areas can be provoked by:

• Soils with excessive liming promote the growth of fungi.
• Most summer residents are afraid of soil oxidation, for this reason they try to saturate it with lime by all means, which becomes the most common cause of late blight. Therefore, it is so important to know how to treat the soil after late blight on tomatoes in the fall.
• Very dense plantings complicate the ventilation of greenhouses and block air access to plants in open places. And a wet greenhouse environment is perfect for the existence of fungal spores.
• Sudden temperature fluctuations, relevant at the end of the summer season, when hot daytime weather often results in quite cold nights. IN this period usually falls a large number of dew, which becomes an additional source of moisture for dark rot.
• Plants weakened by ripening lose their immunity.
• The lack of necessary components (potassium, iodine, manganese) significantly increases the possibility of late blight.

Therefore, before treating the soil against late blight, it is necessary to saturate it with microelements.

Popular methods

Since it is almost impossible to completely get rid of late blight in tomatoes, you need to think about preventive measures. First of all, remove plant fragments, secondly, disinfect.

What from late blight and how? There are 3 main technologies:

• agrotechnical;
• biological;
• chemical.

Rules of agricultural technology

Since late blight spores have every chance of living in the soil for a couple of years, we must adhere to certain rules and know how to treat the soil after late blight on tomatoes in the fall:

• Maintain crop rotation.
• Do not plant tomatoes next to potatoes.
• Tomatoes must be planted at a distance to allow air access. Watering should be plentiful, but the soil should not be brought to a viscous state - these are ideal conditions for late blight spores. Preventive agrotechnical measures must be carried out in the fall after the tomato harvest.
• In the fall, before cultivating the soil against late blight, it is necessary to dig up the ridges where the tomatoes grew using the moldboard method. A piece of soil with spores will be on top. It is necessary to dig, deepening the shovel to a full bayonet.
• In the spring, before planting tomatoes, the soil can be watered hot water, adding potassium permanganate to it. If the treatment is carried out in a greenhouse, then cover all windows and doors without exception. The bed in the air is covered on top with film.

How to cope with the folk method?

Late blight is by no means a new disease; our ancestors knew about it. There was no chemistry back then. Our grandparents came up with their own ways to combat late blight in tomatoes, which gardeners still use today. If the disease is not very severe, they will be effective. Can be used traditional methods as a precautionary measure.

One liter of fermented kefir is poured into a bucket of water. They spray tomatoes and the soil around them.

How else can you treat the soil against late blight in tomatoes in the fall? Whey may help. Take the same amount of serum and water and spray the soil and plants. You can add a few drops of an antiseptic such as iodine.

Rotted straw or hay must be filled with a bucket of water, adding a little urea. The mixture is infused for up to 5 days. Water the soil around the tomatoes every 10 days.

For the solution take 500 grams of ash, 40 grams homemade soap(grate), put in a three-liter jar and fill with water. After the soap has dissolved, spray the tomatoes and the garden bed. The row spacing can be sprinkled with ash, and the soil can be moistened in advance.

It is good to use skim milk (skimmed milk) for cultivating soil and tomatoes. One liter of skim milk is poured into a ten-liter watering can and iodine (15 drops) is added. Bring it up to 10 liters and water the soil under two tomatoes.

Why are they good? traditional methods? It is not necessary to pause between treatments. Similar products can be combined, alternating the treatment of tomatoes and soil.

Biological methods

If the disease is not very rampant, it is possible to limit oneself to biological substances. They are not dangerous to the earth, animals and humans. How to treat the soil after late blight in the fall? The most effective are:

• "Baikal EM-1";
• "Baikal EM-5".

They should be brought into the ground about two weeks before the arrival of cold weather before digging the soil.

• "Baktofit" and "Trichodermin";
• "Planzir" and "Alirin B";
• "Fitosporin", "Fitocide M" and others.

These substances are used strictly according to the instructions after the soil has been dug up. In early spring, immediately after the snow melts, the procedure must be repeated.

How to treat the soil after late blight of tomatoes with fungicides? Dissolve required quantity in water and spilled to a depth of 10 cm.

“Fitosporin” is used for autumn and spring treatment of land against late blight. Add 6 milliliters of the drug to 10 liters of water. This solution enough for one square. You can repeat this during plant growth.

Trichodermin contains spores and mycelium of the fungus Trichoderma lignorum. Therefore, late blight spores die. For watering plants and soil, 100 milliliters per ten-liter bucket of water is enough.

Chemistry to help

If agricultural methods, folk remedies and biological substances did not help, you need to use chemistry. Substances with hazard class 3 or 4 are suitable for this. Before treating tomatoes with chemicals, you must read the instructions carefully.

After digging in the autumn, they are treated with Bordeaux mixture. A similar operation is performed a second time in the spring.

The substance contains copper sulfate, it disinfects the soil and replenishes the need for microelements. Tomatoes are sprayed with Bordeaux substance and the soil is treated. Plants can be sprayed every year, soil - once every five years.

You can use 4% copper oxychloride or 2% Oxychoma.

During the period of tomato transplantation, all holes are filled with “Quadris”, “Bravo”, “Hom”. Each chemical must be used strictly according to the rules.

Only comprehensive measures can clear the soil of late blight. Do not forget that soil cultivation must be done regularly every autumn and spring.

Conclusion

Now you know how to treat soil contaminated with late blight in the garden. It is important to disinfect and treat the soil in advance, apply fertilizers correctly and use specialized products to combat this fungus. Comprehensive measures will give good results.

Plants living in a greenhouse are susceptible to attack by various pests and often suffer from all kinds of diseases. One of them is late blight. This disease is very dangerous; it can ruin all your painstaking work in growing plants and obtaining a rich harvest.

However, this can be avoided - it is necessary to prepare the greenhouse in the fall. How to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the fall? Let's look at the main methods.

Late blight is serious fungal disease plants caused by late blight, a fungus-like protist of the oomycete division. Translating it Latin name Phytophthora, we get the phrase “destroying plants.” And it fully corresponds to the nature of the impact of this pathogen.

On a note! Plants of the Solanaceae family suffer from late blight more than other crops. These are potatoes, tomatoes, Bell pepper. Strawberries, buckwheat and other representatives of the flora are also susceptible to late blight.

Phytophthora reproduces by zoospores, which easily overwinter on old tubers, tops, other plant debris and even in soil. And as soon as they are created favorable conditions, late blight wakes up, becomes active and begins to spread throughout the plants.

It is greenhouse conditions, that is, humid and warm conditions, that are most favorable for the rapid development and subsequent reproduction of this fungus. Phytophthora spores begin to develop on plant foliage at air temperatures above +10 degrees and humidity around 75%.

By the way, late blight will live not only on plants - it will happily nest for the winter on the greenhouse itself - its covering, frame.

On a note! Spores enter the soil when they are washed off from plant leaves by rain, and infection can also occur with the help of wind - light spores are easily spread air currents for many kilometers.

The main signs of crop damage by late blight.

Late blight is a disease that is not to be trifled with. If you don’t fight it, don’t carry it out preventive measures acceptance to protect your favorite garden, it can cause significant damage to your entire greenery, including the greenhouse.

Fighting methods and popular remedies

One of the main methods of combating late blight is. Proper treatment will not only help cope with this scourge and protect your harvest in the future, but will also prepare a home for plants for spring, and you will not have to improve it before the start of the summer season.

The greenhouse is disinfected in various ways:

• chemical;
• biological;
• temperature.

On a note! Gives the greatest effect complex use all types of greenhouse treatment in the fall, and not just one.

To treat soil in a greenhouse, chemical or temperature methods are most often used. The structure itself must be treated with chemicals.

Table. Anti-late blight preparations suitable for treating greenhouse structures.

Means

Description

As they say, cheap and cheerful. Bleaching powder - best option for processing greenhouses with wooden frame, as it protects the tree from rotting and woodworms. It is enough to dilute just 400 g of the substance in a 10-liter bucket of water and let it brew for about 4 hours, and the terrible poison for late blight is ready. Coat the entire surface of the greenhouse with liquid, and then the wooden frame. After treatment, the structure is closed for 2-3 days.

But not only the greenhouse structure itself needs to be treated if you want to get rid of late blight with a 100% guarantee. Remember that spores can also overwinter in the ground, so treat that too in the fall.

Basic methods of soil treatment against late blight.

The process of treating a greenhouse against late blight

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter and treat it against late blight? Everything is very simple. And we will use several methods in combination for reliability.

Step 1. After harvesting, remove plant remains from the greenhouse: tops, pieces of fruit, and, if possible, all roots. It is especially important to remove all tomatoes, peppers, that is, nightshades. And it is extremely important to do this if you find the first signs of late blight on plants. Also throw away any old garters and pegs.

Step 2. Burn everything you collected and took out of the greenhouse.

Step 3. Prepare a soap solution: dissolve the grated liquid laundry soap in warm water and rinse the entire greenhouse with the resulting preparation. This will remove external dirt and, partially, late blight spores.

Step 4. If possible, remove upper layer soil by about 5-10 cm.

Step 5. If it is not possible to remove the soil, proceed to processing the greenhouse structure and soil. First, treat the greenhouse itself with a chlorine-lime solution, preparing it as indicated in the table above.

Step 6. 2-3 days after the work is completed bleach Prepare a solution of copper sulfate for soil treatment. Sprinkle it thoroughly over the entire soil.

Step 7 Use a smoke bomb as well. Light the sulfur, close the greenhouse, “smoke” it thoroughly and leave it closed for 3-4 days.

Step 8 If you removed soil, place fresh soil in the greenhouse at this point.

Step 9 When cold weather sets in, open the greenhouse and let the soil freeze well for a few days.

Step 10 Cover the soil in the greenhouse with a layer of snow.

Video - Greenhouse treatment against late blight

Prevention

To protect your greenhouse as much as possible from the appearance of late blight, you should also prevent this disease. There is nothing complicated about these activities, but they will provide maximum protection against the terrible fungus.

The main thing is not to plant potatoes and tomatoes next to each other. The crops belong to the same family, both of these plants are Solanaceae, which means that infection of one will easily lead to infection of the other if they grow close to each other. And even if spatial isolation has been observed, be sure to burn all tops from both tomatoes and potatoes without leaving any residue.

One of the best preventive measures is the possibility of creating two greenhouses. The crops grown in them should be rotated annually. For example, this year tomatoes are growing in greenhouse No. next year It’s better to plant them in greenhouse No. 2, and let there be cucumbers in the first one. However, this method can only be implemented if there is a sufficiently spacious dacha plot.

The best preventive measure is the arrangement of two greenhouses

Do not forget to disinfect the greenhouse annually using chemical and biological methods. By the way, if your plants have not been affected by late blight, then the usual washing of the structure using copper sulfate, fumigation with sulfur or treatment with bleach will be sufficient. It is not necessary to remove or spill the soil; it is better to add beneficial microflora to it. The main thing is to do this in the summer, while it is still warm outside, since biological drugs do not work at sub-zero temperatures. In general, treatment with Fitosporin is recommended every 15 days.

Pay attention to what you plant too. As for tomatoes, choose seeds that were obtained at least two years ago. Late blight has definitely died on them, even if it existed, and will not infect other crops.

On a note! “Epidemics” of late blight begin towards the end of summer, which means it is advisable to grow those varieties that will finish bearing fruit as early as possible.

Also, look at how you plant - do not place tomato bushes in the greenhouse close to each other, so that it is more difficult for late blight to move from one plant to another and spread throughout the greenhouse. Be sure to remove and burn old and dying leaves.

To avoid late blight, feed your tomatoes regularly. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are excellent for these purposes.

A disease that caused the Great Famine in Ireland from 1845 to 1849. It can still destroy crops if it is not dealt with. Late blight affects trees, shrubs, and grasses, causing drying out, wilting, and rot. The infection is hidden, and when symptoms appear on the plant, it is already difficult to save it. Almost every gardener knows the feeling of regret when throwing away tomatoes or potatoes. To avoid crop losses, cultivate the land on time and correctly.

Late blight

Translated from Greek, late blight means destroying plants. These lower fungi attack both the soft parts of the plant and the strong, hard ones (trunks and roots). Infection is manifested by the appearance of necrotic (dying) spots from gray-brown to dark brown. Then the plant dries out in this part. If another infection is added, it may rot.

Late blight reproduces with the help of conidia (immobile spores) and zoospores (moving in a liquid medium).

Late blight zoospores move through liquids using flagella

This means that it is not enough to burn infected plants, since as a result of rain and watering, the spores have contaminated the soil. Therefore, after harvesting plants infected with late blight, cultivating the soil is a necessary action.

How and with what to till the soil in the fall

When late blight develops on plants, the soil is infected with spores from top to bottom along those natural “funnels” that are formed as a result of swaying plant stems, pulling out weeds, and cracking the earth. Therefore, the soil is cultivated after clearing all vegetation without preliminary loosening.

In areas where the cultivated layer of soil freezes in winter, late blight is killed by low temperatures. Soil contamination occurs through newly planted infected plants or seeds. In areas with warm winters, fungal spores survive and autumn processing land is required.

Before autumn plantings (garlic, bulbs), holes and grooves are treated with fungicides, even if treatment was carried out after harvesting. True, this reduces the nutritional properties of the soil.

When choosing fungicides, give preference to those that not only fight late blight, but also feed and strengthen plant immunity. All packages contain instructions for use and indicate the composition and effect. Here are some examples.

Chemical fungicides

This group of drugs generally does not require compliance with the soil temperature regime, acts for several days, and does not lose its properties due to rain. But as a rule, it has a high hazard class for people, animals and insects. Since autumn processing takes place at a time when pollinating insects no longer fly, care should be taken to ensure that there are no animals on the site and that skin And respiratory tract person.

1. Copper sulfate - blue crystalline powder - is the fungicide most beloved by gardeners and gardeners. It destroys spores of the late blight fungus, strengthens the immunity and frost resistance of plants, is low-toxic, easy to prepare and apply, and is affordable. 50 g of powder is diluted in 200 ml of warm water until dissolved and diluted in 5 l clean water, treat 1 sq.m of area with severe infection and 2 sq.m with weak infestation.
2. Colloidal sulfur is a yellowish-gray powder that is toxic to humans and insects in high concentrations. 30 g are diluted in 10 liters of water, sprayed over an area of ​​100 square meters, periodically shaking the container with liquid. Spraying is carried out at a soil temperature of at least 20 o C or the solution itself should have a temperature of 30–35 o C
3. Oxychome, a white powder, is toxic to humans and insects. 10 g are diluted in 10 liters of water, sprayed over an area of ​​100 square meters. m.
   Important: chemicals increase soil acidity. Before planting crops that do not tolerate high acidity, the soil is alkalized with chalk, bone meal or ash in the recommended dosages, on average 1 cup per 1 sq.m.

Biological fungicides

This class of drugs is based on strains of bacteria that require special conditions for action (temperature, humidity, digging). All conditions are indicated on the packages.

1. Agat-25K - a flowing paste - is based on bacteria with the addition of macro- and microelements, natural flavonoids and pine extract, is low-toxic, promotes plant growth and improves their immunity. 140 mg of paste is diluted in 3 liters of water and sprayed on an area of ​​80–100 sq.m.
2. Alirin-B is a dry powder or tablet based on beneficial soil microflora that reduces soil acidity. 2 tablets are diluted in 10 liters of water to treat 10 sq.m.

Alternative Methods

To cultivate small areas (beds, flower beds, holes) in the plots, soil treatment with high temperatures is used.

The first method acidifies the soil, the second partially neutralizes the acidity.

Whatever drugs are used to combat late blight, know that they are also harmful to beneficial microflora soil. Therefore, after treatment with fungicides, restore the living beneficial flora with special EM preparations (EM - effective microorganisms), for example: Baikal EM1, BakSib, Stimulin, Siyanie-2,3, etc.

Late blight occurs not only on potatoes and other nightshades, but also on strawberries and grapes. If you don't fight it, you can destroy up to 50-70% of the crop.

Why does she appear?

How to shed the soil from late blight?

On summer cottages Substances of hazard class 3 are approved for use, which include copper-containing preparations that have proven themselves in the fight against late blight. The soil for nightshades can be treated in the spring with a 1-3% solution of copper sulfate as an antifungal agent, then dug up, and then spilled with the microbiological preparation phytosporin-m (1 tbsp per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m), which is already classified as less dangerous hazard class 4. For the soil where strawberries or flowers will grow, alirin, which is similar in composition and properties to phytosporin, is recommended. You can also apply a copper fungicide. broad action- an order that is also suitable for the prevention of grape diseases.

The waiting time for the chemical to decompose in the soil and vegetables to be eaten is about a month, which is why copper-containing substances are used in early spring. And biological preparations can be used at any time, except during flowering, otherwise they can harm the bees. In greenhouses and cellars it is recommended to light special sulfur bombs. It is necessary to strictly follow the safety precautions and during disinfection not to be too close to the burning smoke protection.

Prevention of late blight

1. Since the development of the disease in plants occurs at positive temperatures, from 1 to 30 degrees, and spreads quickly, it is not easy to stop late blight. That's why Special attention is focused on prevention.
2. In autumn, all tops must be destroyed; it is best to burn them outside the garden.
3. After harvesting in greenhouses, the top layer, 5 centimeters deep, is removed.
4. Nightshade seedlings and potato tubers are treated with phytosporin-m or oxychome before planting. During the growing season it is also possible.
5. Observe
6. Don't plant thickly. If you notice affected leaves or fruits, remove and burn immediately. It is easy to recognize the sore - gray-brown oblong spots appear on the leaves, the fruits themselves are also damaged, slightly wrinkled areas appear on the potato peel, and if you cut it, you definitely can’t go wrong.
7. There is no need to overfeed the plants with fresh manure or other fertilizers.
8. Mulch the soil. This will reduce the humidity in the greenhouse. After each rain, shake off any drops from open ground tomatoes by tapping the bushes. Do not splash water on greenhouse tomatoes when watering. Pick off the lower leaves of tomatoes in a timely manner, especially those touching the ground.
9. Also remove fruits that are not fully ripe, along with red or brown ones. For better preservation, harvested late tomatoes can be rinsed with hot water, dried and put to ripening.
10. Seed potatoes need to be greened in the fall.
11. If you adhere to the principles of organic farming, where digging and application chemicals are prohibited, then use green manure (sowing in both autumn and spring), mulching and spraying with a five-day strong infusion of garlic, strained and diluted with 3 tbsp soapy water. l. infusion in 10 liters of water. I also have an old grandmother’s recipe: watering tomatoes when night temperature drops below +8, a mixture of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of skim milk or kefir or whey with the addition of 10-15 drops of iodine and 1 tbsp. salt. This solution is poured 1 liter under each bush.
12. Choose varieties that are resistant to late blight. For example, my favorite tomato variety, grown both outdoors and indoors, is Yablonka Rossii.

Phytophthora is terrible headache summer residents, which is difficult to get rid of. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus, which, as recent studies have shown, is transmitted with seeds, causing the cyclicity of the disease. We will now tell you how to get rid of late blight and how to treat the soil.

When and on what plants does late blight appear?

Before getting rid of late blight, it is worth learning more about the fungus. The fact is that it affects plants from the nightshade family. The pathogen can also harm buckwheat, strawberries, potatoes and tomatoes.
Important! Signs of fungus appear in mid-summer, when humidity rises to 75% and air temperature to +25 C.
Transmitted fungal infection by all means available in nature:

1. With drops of water.
2. On the soles of shoes from bed to bed, the earth is also blown by the wind and washed away by rain, which is favorable for the spread of late blight.
3. Through infected seeds, seedlings, tubers.
4. After harvesting and cultivating the soil, it is worth disinfecting garden tools that may have had harmful fungi remaining on them.

How to treat the soil against late blight?

Knowing the enemy by sight, we think about how to get rid of late blight. After harvesting, it is necessary not only to cultivate the soil, but also to thoroughly clean the area. The fungus is quite tenacious and can easily overwinter on the remains of tops, infecting plants for the next season.
The garbage is collected with a rake, after which the dry tops are burned outside the site. To get rid of late blight, soil treatment begins with digging up the soil.

Digging up the soil to get rid of late blight

The method of digging without dumping is not suitable, because with this method the microflora of the soil is completely preserved. The ideal option would be dump digging, when a clod of earth is turned over, completely changing the microflora.
Digging to combat the fungus is carried out to a depth of 1 shovel. Yes, weed seeds find themselves in favorable conditions, briskly entering the next year, but the likelihood of eradicating the infection is higher.
Advice! Next season, follow the gardener’s unwritten rule: do not plant nightshades in the same place. After harvesting strawberries, potatoes or tomatoes, do not plant them in the same soil for at least 3 years.

How to fight late blight with simple means?

To combat late blight in a greenhouse and on the street, digging up the soil is not enough; you should use folk remedies and insecticides. We will now tell you how to treat the soil and young plants.

Milk serum

To combat late blight that appeared in the first half of summer, take a liter of whey and the same amount of water. Mix the components and spray the plants and soil, which will become not only a medicine, but also a prevention. Can be used in greenhouses and open ground.

Copper sulfate solution

Take 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, then treat the plants with the resulting solution once just before flowering.

How else can you fight late blight that has arisen on plants?

To fight you can use:

1. A solution of milk (1 l), water (10 l) and 15 drops of iodine. The resulting solution is sprayed on the plants every 2 weeks.
2. Tablets Trichopolum. 1 tablet is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the plants are treated once every 14 days.
3. Yeast solution, which is prepared from 100 g of live yeast and 10 liters of water. Spray the affected tomatoes 2 times a month.

Advice! The row spacing of plants is treated with ash a day after planting; the soil must be re-treated after fruit set.

How to fight late blight in the soil?

Some gardeners claim that tilling the soil does not remove fungal spores. But the latter is so tenacious that it is still worth cultivating the soil.

Chemical treatment

You can cultivate the soil chemicals 3-4 danger groups. Suitable for this purpose:

• Copper or iron sulfate, as well as bodro liquid. 1-3% solutions are used in the fall.
• In the fall, preferably in October, either a 4% solution of copper oxychloride or a 2% solution of oxyhomo is added to the top layer of soil.

Important! The listed preparations are applied to the soil at a level of 5-10 cm. Before planting, the soil should be treated with Hom, Quadris or Bravo, which are placed directly into the holes.

Safe biological treatment

If late blight is not critical, then treatment can be carried out with less dangerous biological preparations. This category of products contains “good” microorganisms that are safe for all representatives of fauna.
What to use? Let's look at the means:

• Line of drugs “Baikal EM”, from this line choose the marking EM-1 or EM-5. Soil products are applied to the soil 2-3 weeks before the first frost. Their effect comes down to the fact that microorganisms kill all products of the fungus, nourishing and renewing the soil.
• Autumn tillage is carried out after the first digging. I use fungicides Planzir or Alirin B, Fitosporin and Phytocid M are also effective.
• After the end of winter at the end of March or beginning of April, the treatment is repeated, adding preparations to 5-10 cm of the top layer of soil.

Important! It is recommended to carry out preventative treatment in the spring and fall, especially if there is an outbreak of late blight in your area. Biological preparations are less harmful, and with regular use they will become reliable protection for both the land and the harvest obtained from it.

Agrotechnical techniques

As we have already said, nightshades should not be planted in the same soil for several years in a row. After harvesting, the soil is dug up and the tops are removed without using them for compost.
In 2-3 years, the late blight mycelium dies, and onions, cabbage, and legumes must be planted in the area where nightshades grew last year. When planting tomatoes, peppers, potatoes or eggplants, a clear separation of the beds is used, which will ensure excellent aeration, thorough processing and uniform watering.
Advice! Do not plant nightshades tightly; it is stagnation of water, heat and lack of oxygen that lead to the rapid proliferation of the fungus.

How to prepare and disinfect a greenhouse?

When a fungus develops in a greenhouse, the latter should be washed with strong soap solution, and then treat with bleach.
Another great way prevention and removal of fungus in a greenhouse is fumigation with sulfur. Sulfur is either poured onto burning coals, or special checkers are used, which can be bought at a gardener's store. When smoldering, sulfur releases gas, which penetrates into all cracks.
Important! During fumigation, the gardener lays out sulfur, and when gas begins to be released, it leaves the greenhouse. The room is closed, and it will be possible to enter it after 3 days, because the gas is very dangerous to health. After fumigation, be sure to ventilate the room.
During winter, temperature treatment is carried out, during which the greenhouse is opened for 1-2 days. Frost and temperature changes will kill the fungus. After such treatment, it is recommended to cover the frozen ground with snow.

Let's sum it up

Late blight is an unpleasant fungus that can seriously harm the crop. Now you know how to deal with it, and for prevention, follow these tips:

1. Ventilation is required in greenhouses. Watering plants planted in open ground, do it in the morning so that the moisture is effectively absorbed.
2. Avoid crowding plants.
3. Fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will strengthen the plants.
4. Preventive soil treatment in autumn and spring, equipment treatment.

Along with these measures, carry out preventive spraying with safe folk solutions, which will protect plants and kill the first fungal spores!