How do you know if a dog trainer is good? Basics of training All kinds of professions are needed, all kinds of professions are important

Aksul Zet, 1991

trainingcalled the consistent training of a dog to perform certain actions on various signals (voice, gestures, whistle sound, horns, rustles, certain smells, etc.)

Trainer- a person who trains a dog and works with it. In some departments, he is called a guide, or a dog handler. The trainer must be professionally trained.

Requirements for a trainer

Successful training of a dog is ensured by the perseverance and exactingness of the trainer with his attentive, kind attitude towards the dog. He must know the basics and principles of training, be able to promptly encourage the correct actions of the dog, prohibit erroneous ones, have a good command of the intonations of his voice, gestures, give commands correctly.

Teams

When training and working with a dog, certain words are adopted - commands. As a rule, the command should be sonorous, short, in the native language of the trainer or dog owner.

It is necessary to strictly observe the different intonations of the voice of the trainer giving the command to the dog: command - given in a calm, even voice; affectionate - encouraging the correct actions of the dog, the command "good!", smoothing; threatening - repetition of a command not performed by the dog in a threatening, persistent tone, without a cry, after which, if not performed, a jerk, pressure, blow follow.

The intonation of the command command changes to excite the dog chasing the animal, the offender, and to prohibit an undesirable action. Team "fu!" (“No!”) is always pronounced in a stern, threatening tone.

tricks

A training technique is called the sequential actions of a trainer to develop a certain skill in a dog.

Training methods

mechanical method. This method is based on reinforcing the conditioned stimulus with a physical or painful effect by pressing, jerking the leash, slapping, hitting a whip or lash. With the mechanical method, it is possible to get the dog to follow all the commands without fail, but this method is applicable only to strong, balanced or inert dogs. It is mainly used in the training of guard dogs and in the initial training of phlegmatic dogs.

The main disadvantage of the method is that as a result of strong irritants, normal relationships based on the dog's attachment and trust in a person can be destroyed. The dog is often afraid of the trainer, but dutifully follows his commands, doing it under duress, without interest in work.

Taste-promoting method based on a food irritant. Thus, while teaching a dog to take a landing, the trainer shows her a delicacy, which he holds in his hand raised above his head. Wanting to get a treat, the dog, in order to better see it, sits down and at the same moment receives a treat. With this method, contact is easily established between the trainer and the dog, and a conditioned reflex is quickly formed. The disadvantage of the taste-promoting method is that it does not provide the dog with a fail-safe performance. A constantly fed dog loses interest in classes and executes commands reluctantly, inaccurately and without the necessary endurance. This method is often practiced when teaching indoor dogs to play skills.

contrast method training is characterized by the use of stimuli of the mechanical and taste-promoting method. Acting as an irritant of the mechanical method, without much force and rudeness, they force the dog to take one or another position, after which they immediately give it a treat. The contrast method combines the positive aspects of the taste-enhancing and mechanical methods, with it the trainer's contact with the dog is the strongest. This is the main and widespread method of dog training.

imitative method especially common in shepherd service and in some types of hunting dog breeding. With this method, puppies are involved in the work of adult dogs. They learn to guard the herd, to chase the beast, etc. This method is also used in the training of young dogs intended for guard duty. They are put on post with or near an adult guard dog.

Stages of training

Dog training is carried out sequentially, with the transition from simple to complex, from rough execution to clear and trouble-free. First, help the dog understand what is required of it. For example, they lightly press it to the ground to give a certain pose. they lure with a treat after the command “to me!”, pull up (“revive”) the fetching object (diarrhea) so that the dog grabs a hundred and carries it. All the correct actions of the dog at this stage of training will certainly be encouraged with treats and affection. Erroneous and wrong actions dogs are not encouraged.

In the first stage of training, extraneous, distracting stimuli have a great influence on the dog, so the initial training is carried out in a quiet, secluded place.

In the second stage of training, carried out in a similar environment, the developed conditioned reflex to a particular command is reinforced by restraint in its execution, the command is combined with the appropriate gesture. At this stage, by reinforcing the correct actions of the dog, inhibiting its mistakes, a more precise and willing execution of commands and gestures is achieved.

In the third stage of training, further consolidation of the developed conditioned reflexes (skills) is carried out in a new, gradually more complicated environment with various stimuli affecting the dog (for example, the presence of people, animals passing near transport). To inhibit the excitation caused by these stimuli, the trainer strengthens his influence on the dog by repeating the command in a threatening tone, mechanical action, such as a jerk. The final consolidation of the skill is achieved by subsequent training.

Basic rules of training

The trainer in the whole complex of his influence on the dog (voice, gestures, character of movement, facial expression, type of his clothes, individual smell inherent only to him) is the main and strongest irritant for her. Correct relationship, strong contact between the trainer and the dog is outwardly characterized by the dog's unflagging observation of the trainer, trusting quick approach to him, complete obedience and lack of fear. Equally important are the movements and gestures of the trainer. Impetuous, abrupt, unnecessary (for example, stamping of the foot) movements can cause the dog to display a defensive reaction in the form of an angry or cowardly, timid attitude towards the trainer.

When organizing and conducting dog training, it is necessary:

know the characteristics of the dog's behavior, its character (affectionate, distrustful, vicious);
conduct training with a specific task for each lesson;
carefully develop the necessary conditioned reflex in the dog, strictly observing the conditions for its formation;
do not change the words of the command, gestures and signals, giving them clearly and uniformly. Change the intonation of the command in accordance with the behavior of the dog;
by all means encourage every correct action of the dog;
diversify classes and in the course of them carefully monitor the dog's interest in work and its physical condition;
to help the dog, to push him with his actions to clearly execute the command, gesture or signal, to encourage the dog skillfully and in time;
clearly distinguish between the working and free state of the dog in the classroom. At the same time, the behavior of the trainer himself changes accordingly: in the classroom he must be smart, have a businesslike appearance. the tone of the commands is commanding, demanding, persistent. During breaks, it is necessary to provide the dog with freedom of movement, to play with it.

With a monotonous sequence of commands, a stereotype is formed in the dog. For example, first landing, laying down the dog, then jumping over obstacles, then giving voice and repeating them again in the same order. After a few lessons, the dog, having executed the first command “sit!”, performs the rest itself in the same sequence without commands. Conducting classes in the same place, at the same time, will create in the dog such a conditional connection in which it executes commands (works) only at this place and only at this time. The appearance of assistant trainers in the classroom in the same training suits teaches the dog to respond to a person dressed in such clothes.

Typical trainer mistakes

Wrong system of teaching individual skills.
Ignorance by the trainer of the reasons for the refusal or poor execution of the command by the dog, the characteristics of the dog's behavior, its character, physical condition at the moment.
Estimating a dog's behavior as a human action (humanization of a dog) is the most common and grossest mistake of inexperienced trainers, trainers and dog lovers.
Indifferent attitude to training, work according to a template, without revitalizing the activity with encouragement, play, free walking, etc.
The trainer’s inattention to the manifestation of the dog’s innate tendency, untimely and incorrect encouragement of this manifestation (for example, pulling the dog on a bird, barking at an animal or an approaching stranger, etc.)
The inability to correctly develop a conditioned reflex in a dog, to apply unconditioned and conditioned stimuli, to reinforce the correct actions of the dog with encouragement in a timely manner.
Poor working out by the trainer himself of the technique of giving commands, gestures and signals, violation of uniformity in their application, which confuses the dog and delays the formation of the conditioned reflex developed in it.
Replacing the command with a word consonant or close to it (instead of the command “sit!”, then “sit down!”, then “sit down!”), Fuzzy delivery of the command, etc.
Negligence in handling a dog in class: stepping on its paws, accidental hits on the head with a leash or its carabiner; inept use and adjustment of equipment used in training.

Typical mistakes of an amateur trainer:

sluggish and indecisive behavior of the trainer himself, monotonous, uncertain commands, lack of exactingness and perseverance in the obligatory fulfillment of the given command by the dog, pleading intonation of the voice;
change dog names, the use of a nickname in a diminutive and caressing form:
unnecessarily frequent use prohibition commands "fu!" (“no!”) with a strong impact, which sometimes intimidates some dogs, or, conversely, a frequent “fu!” without reinforcements conditioned stimulus, which creates an indifferent attitude of the dog to this most important team;
smoothing, i.e. rewarding the dog at the moment or immediately after the forbidding command “fu!”.

General initial training

General initial training is necessary to develop the dog's obedience skills, the correct behavior of various conditions life and work.

For dogs of all breeds and purposes, the required skills are:

knowledge of the owner (counselor, guide) and the nickname assigned to the dog;
the dog's unfailing and willing approach to the trainer on command, gesture or signal;
accustoming a dog to equipment;
free state after enabling command;
cessation of unwanted actions of the dog;
walking the dog next to the trainer;
refusal of food found or offered to strangers.

For some official, hunting and parts pet dogs Further initial training skills will be:

landing;
styling;
standing;
voting;
fetching;
overcoming obstacles;
return to the place;
protection of things;
swimming;
indifferent attitude to shots;
crawl.

Service dogs intended for guard duty, as well as hunting and indoor dogs used to guard an apartment, house, home garden, vegetable garden, etc., develop a skill - distrust of strangers. The initial training of dogs begins from puppyhood, while systematic training is carried out from 6-8 months of age and later. First of all, they work out skills that do not require coercion and strong braking (knowledge of the nickname, approach to the trainer, overcoming small obstacles, jumping with the trainer). Then they work out such techniques as walking the dog next to the trainer, stopping unwanted actions at his command, etc.

You can not train a dog in a strict sequence: first, only basic skills, and after them - special ones.

The improvement of basic skills and their polishing should be carried out in parallel with special training sessions.

Knowing the owner and the dog's assigned nickname

The dog must know the owner (leader, guide) and the nickname assigned to it. The team is the name of the dog.

The dog's name is chosen by the owner from short, jerky words in his native language.

They teach the dog to the trainer during feeding, on walks, while caring for it. At the same time, the trainer should treat the dog affectionately and reinforce acquaintance with it with delicacy, smoothing and play,

Simultaneously with giving write and treats, the dog is taught to its nickname by all means with an affectionate intonation of the voice.

The correct attitude of the dog to the trainer is characterized by a change in its behavior: when it appears, it waves its tail, caresses, carefully watches him and keeps close to him.

dog abuse:
distortion and change of her nickname.

Approach of the dog to the trainer (call)

Team "to me!". Gesture for service dogs- the arm extended to the side at shoulder height drops sharply to the thigh. For hunting dogs sound signal (whistle, horn).

The dog's approach to the trainer must be quick, willing, and trouble-free. Team "to me!" combined with a nickname, with a display of goodies in hand. For the approach and giving goodies, smoothing. With a slow, sluggish approach, the trainer, after repeating the command and showing a treat, quickly runs away from the dog.

The transition to the call by gesture begins after the dog clearly executes the command “come to me!”. Apply the gesture simultaneously with the command. For calm, phlegmatic dogs, we allow a jerk with an elongated rein after giving the command “to me!”.

The approach to the whistle and other signals is worked out after the clear execution of the command “come to me!” first at the same time as her. then only on a signal. Reinforcement with a treat for the initial execution of the approach to the trainer on command and signal should be more plentiful.

When approaching, service dogs are taught to sit in front of the trainer, go around him on the right in a circle, stop on their own or sit down on his left leg. To do this, when the dog approaches, the trainer transfers the delicacy behind his back from his right hand to his left, which he feeds the delicacy to.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

punishing the dog for not following the command, slow approach;
threatening intonation of the voice instead of encouraging during the formation of the initial performance of the skill:
giving treats from the right hand.

Teaching the dog to equipment (collar, leash, muzzle)

No special command. The skill is essential for all dogs. First, the dog is taught to wear a collar, then a leash and a muzzle.

Due to mechanical irritation from the collar and especially from the muzzle, the dog immediately tries to remove them with its paws, rubbing against the ground, etc. To distract the dog from these actions, the trainer takes her out for a walk, plays with her, periodically removes the collar or muzzle and put it back on. After walking, the collar is removed. The time of wearing the collar on a walk is gradually increased. The calm attitude of the dog towards him is encouraged by treats, stroking and playing.

Over time, the moment of putting on a collar, leash or muzzle becomes a positive signal (conditioned stimulus) for the dog to go for a walk.

A collar is considered correctly tightened around the dog’s neck when it fits snugly, but not tight. thumb trainer's hands.

Putting on a muzzle requires skill and speed of action from the trainer. The trainer must choose the right muzzle according to the size of the dog's head, make sure that the muzzle straps do not cause inconvenience to the eyes and ears, do not interfere with the free breathing of the dog, especially in summer. The trainer stops the dog's attempts to remove the muzzle with its paws or by rubbing against the ground with the “fu!” command, with a quick movement forward and to the sides, with a jerk of the leash. The calm attitude of the dog to the muzzle should be encouraged.

More characteristic of the trainer's mistakes:

· improper fit of equipment;

· the use of a metal chain instead of a leather leash;

· rough treatment of the dog.

The free state of the dog. Team "Walk!"

The free state of the dog is provided during the walk. She is released from the leash at the command "walk!". Constantly watching the dog, the trainer draws attention to himself, plays with it. avoiding shouting. In urban conditions, if possible, the dog is walked on an extended leash.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

providing the dog with a free state on city streets and roads;
premature descent of the dog from the leash;
shouting and display of rudeness.

Stopping Unwanted Dog Actions

Team "fu!" (“You can’t”), hunters practice “Drop it!” etc. Skill is necessary for all dogs. Classes are held in places where the dog's attention can be distracted by domestic animals and birds, the remnants of li shi, etc. When the dog tries to approach them, the command “fu!” is barked sharply with a threatening intonation. accompanied by a strong jerk of the leash, for excitable, strong dogs- a strict collar or a blow of a whip. After the dog’s unfailing execution of the command “fu!” on a leash, classes are held without it.

Using the command "fu!" permissible only in those moments when the trainer has accurately determined the cause of the dog's distraction. This command for guard dogs is replaced by the command "close!" with a menacing intonation and a jerk of the leash.

Dog walking next to trainer

The position of the dog in place and in motion - right side chest at the left leg of the trainer, on the line of his knee. Team "close!" or "to the foot!". The hunting dog is trained to follow this command behind the hunter's left leg.

At the beginning of training, this skill is practiced on a short leash (the trainer's hand is 20-30 cm from the collar.) Performing the technique requires patience from the trainer.

When pushing the dog forward, to the side or lagging behind, the command “close!” repeat and immediately after it (but not before!) A jerk with a leash follows. The handler moves in a straight line. The correct position of the dog at the foot is encouraged by a delicacy, an affectionate command “good! near!". The dog's attempts to change the position at the foot cause a repeated command "next!" and jerk leash. The pace of the trainer's movement gradually changes, followed by turns to the side and around. Before each turn, to warn the dog, it is obligatory to give the command “close!”.

The sniffing of the dog to the ground while moving is stopped by a command and a jerk.

Gradually, the leash is loosened, lowered to the ground, replaced with a long one or unfastened from the collar altogether. Any attempt by the dog to change its position at the trainer's leg causes the command intonation of the command "near!". The correct position of the dog at the handler's leg is encouraged.

A trained dog on the command "close!" goes correctly at the trainer's foot in any situation and at different rates of movement.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

application of a jerk to the command;
lack of observation of the movement and position of the dog;
careless movement and sharp turns without prior command.

Refusal of food found or offered to strangers. Team "fu!" ("it is forbidden!")

The main difficulty in training this skill is the development in the dog of inhibition of such a reaction as food.

First, the dog is forbidden to take food outside the place of its usual feeding, for this, the feeder with food is placed in another place and the dog is taken there on a short leash in the hours between normal feedings. The dog's attempts to take food from the feeder are stopped by the command "fu!" and a jerk of the leash if the command does not work. Reception is complicated, strengthened by planting the dog near the feeder with exposure in this position. The dog's attempts to change its position, move to the feeder are stopped by the command "sit!" with a menacing voice. If the dog breaks off and rushes to the feeder, the “fu!” command is given, accompanied by a strong jerk on the leash. Execution of the command, indifference to the feeder with food is reinforced by encouragement, transfer of the feeder to the usual place and feeding the dog there.

At the next stage of training, the trainer keeps the dog on a leash or on a short leash, being behind it. The Trainer's Assistant emerges from a nearby hiding place with a treat in hand. Approaching the dog, he calls out to her, showing a treat. As soon as the dog reaches for the assistant, the trainer commands "fu!" and makes a jerk with a leash. The dog's attempts to reach for pieces of food scattered by the assistant at a distance accessible to the dog are stopped by the trainer in the same way. A strong and greedy dog, on which the jerk does not work, the trainer strikes from behind with a rod or whip. the assistant, in turn, lightly slaps her in the face with the hand in which he holds the delicacy.

The indifferent attitude developed in the dog to the food offered by the assistant is reinforced by the trainer by giving him treats from his own hands.

The handler then moves away from the dog to cover, replacing the short leash with an elongated one. Pulling the dog to the treat scattered by the assistant, the latter stops with a slap, blow, and the trainer - with a jerk of the leash and the command “fu!”. The dog's attempts to pick up scattered food in the absence of a helper are stopped in the same way.

They also teach the dog not to take food scattered anywhere. The helper scatters the pieces of food at the spot indicated by the handler, usually where the dog is most often taken out; during the course of the classes, these places are constantly changing. The trainer takes the dog for a walk on a long leash. Letting her go with the “walk!” command, he vigilantly watches her. An attempt to pick up a delicacy is stopped by the “fu!” command and a jerk of the leash. Indifference to thrown food encourages delicacy.

The more often and more varied (according to place, setting and time) the dog is provoked to the thrown and found food with a prohibition to take it and encouragement with a treat when the food is refused, the stronger the skill is formed not to look for and not to pick up food.

Approximately in the same way they train not to accept food from outsiders and a lap dog in an apartment. For service dogs, food refusal is combined with the development of anger.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

feeding the dog at different times of the day;
permission to take handouts from strangers and acquaintances;
conducting classes with a hungry dog;
admission of dog vagrancy;
monotonous food, lack of it necessary for the body dog substances.

Dog landing

This skill is required for shepherd, search and other service dogs. Recommended for hunters. Excluded for guard dogs. Sit command. some hunters "sit down!". Gesture for service dogs - the right arm extended from the bottom up to the shoulder line is half-bent at the elbow with the palm forward, towards the dog or the right arm raised above the shoulder line, not bent at the elbow.

With the taste-promoting method of training, the command “sit!” is given until the dog (usually a puppy), seeing the treat and jumping after it, takes up the landing position itself, which is reinforced by giving the treat, stroking.

With the contrast method, the trainer holds the dog on a leash and, turning towards it, presses the dog's sacrum with his left hand, pulls the leash up with his right hand, pronouncing the command "sit!". For the execution of this command, the dog is given a treat. Then the trainer will give the command without pressing the dog's sacrum. A further complication of the reception is the development of a quick and clear landing on the command “sit!” holding in this position for 10 to 15 seconds.

Then they work out the landing of the dog at a different distance from the trainer: for half the length of the elongated leash, for its entire length and without a leash. Pulling the leash at the time of giving the command should not be. The command is combined with the simultaneous submission of a landing gesture. Exposure in this position gradually increases from 30 to 40 seconds. When the dog is distracted, falls off the landing site, the command “sit!” with a threatening intonation and with the introduction of an unconditioned stimulus. A distracted dog that needs to be seated is given a strict “Sit!” command.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

rough, strong pressure on the crosses and a jerk by the leash:
issuing a command after pressing;
lack of a combination of command and gesture;
constant preservation by the trainer of one position, posture, distance from the dog;
oversight of a dog that is trying to move towards the trainer, changing the place of landing;
long exposure in the landing position from the first lessons;
too short exposure;
a combination of the trainer moving away from the dog, stopping him, turning to the dog and immediately calling her to him without restraint;
allowing the dog to sit waddling with the croup to the side;
using the command "fu!" with small deviations and mistakes of the dog, instead of repeating the command “sit!” with a threatening tone.

dog laying

This skill is necessary for service and hunting dogs, especially pointers and spaniels and for some indoor dogs. Desirable for greyhounds and hounds. Excluded for guards.

The "down" command. Gesture: for service dogs - the right hand is thrown forward to shoulder level with the palm down and sharply lowered; for cops and spaniels - a hand raised up.

The trainer, having commanded “to lie down!”, presses the withers of the sitting dog with his left hand, and with his right hand jerks the leash forward down, or with the same hand takes the dog’s legs in a girth, pulls them forward, which forces the dog to lie down. The lying position of the dog encourages.

After several repetitions, applies only the command, combining it with the gesture. A further complication of the exercise consists in the gradual lengthening and then elimination of the leash, in increasing the distance between the trainer and the dog, increasing the exposure in the laying position, in the transition to the execution of the technique by gesture, from the free state of the dog, etc. The skill is worked out after learning to land.

dog standing

To perform this skill, service and hunting dogs will be given the command “stand!”. Gesture - left hand stretched with the palm up and forward from below to shoulder level, with the trainer tilted slightly forward.

This skill is usually practiced while brushing the dog. Having given the command “stand!”, the trainer pulls the reins forward and up with the right hand, and holds the dog under the belly with the left hand, encouraging the dog to stand by smoothing and delicacy.

The most favorable position of the dog's body during rest is lying down.

The dog gets tired relatively quickly when stationary when landing. It is even more physically difficult for her to stand on the command “stop!”. Long exposure - over 3 minutes in this position is difficult for the dog.

Improvement of execution is achieved by exercises in the dog standing near the trainer, at a distance from him, in combination of command and gesture until the dog executes the command for 15-20 seconds.

Typical trainer mistakes

may be the same as when practicing the skill "landing the dog".

Giving voice (dog barking)

This skill is essential for herding and other service dogs, as well as huskies and lap dogs.

The best ways to develop a conditioned reflex to the command "voice!" following.

A dog on a leash (possibly under the foot) is excited by the pieces of meat shown to it in the handler's hand. The trainer, waving his hand in front of the dog, will give the command “voice! voice!". Unsuccessful attempts of the dog to get the meat out of the handler's hand increase its excitement, which is discharged by squeaking and short barks. As soon as the dog began to bark, it receives a treat, which, as a result of repeated exercises, forms a conditioned reflex to the “voice!” command.

A dog that is less responsive to this method of stimulation is brought by the trainer to an unfamiliar place and tied up. Saying the command "voice, voice!". the trainer starts to walk away from the dog. Excited by the sight of the trainer leaving, the dog barks. Quickly, running, returning to her, commanding “good! voice! voice!”, the trainer will give the dog a treat, unleash it, walk it, then repeat the exercise. When teaching this skill, imitation of another, trained dog is successfully used.

In vicious dogs, barking on command is elicited by an assistant trainer teasing the dog. The dog is on a short leash in a position next to the handler. When the assistant approaches, the trainer will give the dog the command "voice!"

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

untimely giving of goodies;
sharp prohibition of barking;
excessive teasing of the dog by the helper;
encouraging unreasonable barking.

Retrieval (submission of the subject)

The trainer gives the dog commands: the first is “fetch!” (“Submit!”) and the second - “Give!”. This skill is required for hunting, search and other service dogs, it is excluded for shepherd, guard and draft dogs.

Diarrhea is an aportation chock made of softwood (linden, maple, birch) in the form of a turned stick - dumbbell 30-35 cm long and 5-7 cm in diameter. forming a recess. In this place, the dog takes the diaper with his teeth. Sometimes the notch is sheathed with leather. Various types of diarrhea are practiced, for example, those that look like carcasses of birds, stuffed animals, etc.

Training techniques

Waving a diaper (chock) in front of a dog with the command “fetch!” (“Submit!”) Causes the dog to get excited at the grip of the chock, which is encouraged.

Willingly grabbing the dog’s diaper from the trainer’s hand and holding it in the mouth, albeit for a short time, allows you to proceed to the subsequent complication of the reception: throwing after the diaper thrown by the trainer and grabbing it. , delicacy. If the dog rushes for the diaper, but lacks it, the trainer throws up, pushes the diaper away from the dog, as if reviving it, which will cause a bite.

Preventing the dog from throwing diarrhea out of its mouth on the move when moving towards the trainer, the latter himself moves towards the dog, encouraging it with the command “good! fetch! Fine!". The trainer sits the approaching dog with the “sit!” command, after which he introduces a new command - “give!”, Taking out the diaper from the dog’s mouth. If the dog resists and does not let go of the diarrhea, they show it and give it a treat.

A further complication is that the dog, which is in the position of landing or laying, is sent for an abandoned diaper with increasing shutter speed in the position of landing or laying, they are taught to carry the diaper in motion next to the trainer. Animal trainer throws diapers at different sides, at various distances, the team is accompanied by a hand gesture towards the object.

The dog's attempts to run with diarrhea, to gnaw at this, not to approach the trainer, the latter stops, running away from the dog. Seeing the trainer running away, the dog rushes after him. The approaching dog will be given the command “next!”, the trainer changes his run to a step, then stops, commanding the dog “give!”, Takes a diaper and encourages the dog.

When teaching this skill to hunting dogs that feed killed game, instead of a chock, a stuffed carcass of a bird or animal is used.

To train a dog to fetch game, a bird carcass is made from a stick wrapped in gauze or other material. Having achieved a willing grip and giving the dog such a stuffed animal, the trainer sticks the feathers of a wild bird or chicken into it. A dog intended for hunting a hare is sewn or glued pieces of skin with wool to a stuffed animal. When training, this technique is not recommended for feeding wounded birds of prey with their sharp beaks and claws.

The skill is supplemented by training the dog to search for and bring back lost objects by the trainer on his trail. At the same time, using the dog's sense of smell, they develop in it the differentiation of the smell of the trainer's trace from other smells. Items (diarrhea) should have a persistent scent of the trainer and be comfortable for the dog to wear. At the beginning of classes, the trainer must see them.

Developing a skill, the trainer keeps the dog on a leash, showing a diaper, throws it to his feet, moving away with the dog from the diaper object for 6-10 m. Freeing the dog from the leash, commands it to “trace!” and "submit!". Gradually, the command "Submit!" exclude; the conditioned reflex to it is combined in the dog with the command “trace!”, by which it returns, finds and gives the trainer an object thrown on the way. A further complication of the reception consists in the “loss” of an object imperceptible to the dog during movement, an increase in the distance from the place of “loss”, in changing objects that have the smell of a trainer, in exercises in different places.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

permission for the dog to play with diarrhea and gnaw at it;
forcing a dog to keep an object in its mouth for a long time;
putting a diaper in the dog's mouth by force, causing her pain;
the inability of the trainer to quickly change the command "fetch!" command "give!" at the beginning of dog training;
showing a treat, which usually causes the dog to prematurely throw the diarrhea out of the mouth.

Overcoming obstacles

The skill is required for service dogs (except guard and draft dogs). Desirable for hunting and some indoor dogs as an exercise.

Commands "barrier!" (to overcome a deaf fence, hedge) and "forward!" (to overcome the boom, stairs, ditches).

Natural obstacles - ditches, pits, bushes - the dog overcomes together with the trainer on a walk, in the field without a special command.

Service and hunting dogs are taught to overcome artificial obstacles: hedges, various fences, booms and stairs. They are trained on a specially equipped platform. Before classes, the dog is introduced to the site and the type of structures on it.

First, the dog overcomes obstacles up to 1 m high. Starting training, the trainer, commanding “barrier!”, Runs with the dog to the fence, jumps over it with her, and then encourages the dog. In the future, the trainer only runs up to the obstacle, then releases the dog and accepts it on the other side.

Having achieved from the dog a willing and clear execution of the technique on low fences, on the fence, the trainer proceeds to further complicate it. The height of a solid, plank (deaf) fence is gradually increased and brought up to 1.5-2 m. While the dog is jumping onto such a fence, the trainer helps her by planting her so that she can catch her front legs on the edge of the top board of the fence. During classes, the height of the fence can be adjusted by removing or inserting one or two boards, but not exceeding 2.5 m.

Improving the skill of overcoming obstacles is that the dog is allowed to jump from a landing position from a place at a distance of 2-5 m from the fence, with a mandatory exposure in this position until the command “barrier!”. The dog's attempt to run around the obstacle is stopped by a jerk of the leash.

For training a dog to walk on a boom, a regular boom with a stepped board at the end is suitable. The trainer, holding the dog on a short leash, leads it to the boom and sends the command “forward!” to it. The trainer supports the dog that has risen to the boom with his hand under the stomach, directing its movement along the boom with a leash and repeating the command “forward!”. For the passage to the end of the boom, the dog is rewarded.

Gradually, the dog begins to walk on the boom without the support of the trainer. The dog is then sent on a boom off-leash, unaccompanied by a handler; the reception is complicated by stopping the dog on the boom at the command “stop!”. Premature dismounting of the dog from the boom is warned by a strict command "forward!" and encouragement after going through the entire boom; with stubborn dismounts, repeat the technique from the very beginning.

Teaching the dog to walk up the stairs is carried out on stairs with one or two small platforms with railings at the top.

The first staircase is sloping, with wide steps, the second is steep, such as stairs to the hayloft, to the attic, etc. Dog training begins with the trainer and the dog on a leash climbing the sloping stairs together. The movement is started and accompanied by the command “ladder! forward!". Climbing to the platform is encouraged. The descent from the platform, which is more difficult for the dog, is ensured by the trainer by the fact that, going down the stairs in front of the dog, he calls her with the command “to me!”. For the correct descent, the dog is rewarded.

After the dog has developed the skill to willingly go up the stairs, together with the trainer, it begins to accustom it to independent movement up the stairs on the command “forward!”. The trainer approves the correct actions of the dog with the command “forward! Fine! forward!".

Some dogs climb stairs unnecessarily quickly and fall down as they descend. Others very reluctantly and timidly go down. In the first case, the trainer, climbing the stairs with the dog, holds it on a leash; in the second case, he slightly pulls the dog along, encouraging her, or, when the dog is very slowly going down the stairs alone, he starts to run away from the stairs, which will force the dog to speed up the movement. down.

Subsequently, the dog, on command “sit!” or, by gesture, sits down on the landing of the stairs.

The complete assimilation by the dog of ascending and descending a gentle staircase makes it possible to proceed to work on a steep staircase, with alternating ascending a steep one with descending a gentle one, ascending a gentle one with descending a steep staircase, etc. Here, the trainer's careful observation of the dog and the provision of help her. A dog that has fallen off the stairs at least once and received a bruise will be afraid of the stairs for a long time and refuse to work on it.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

lack of preliminary excitation of the dog in front of the obstacle and an energetic message to it:
forced dragging the dog over an obstacle;
application of a strict, parforos collar:
premature transition to a high obstacle;
lack of help and "insurance" of the dog during dismounts and climbs in the first lessons;
repeated or continuous messages of the dog to overcome a high obstacle.

Return to the place

The skill is essential for herding and other service dogs. Desirable for all hunters. Excluded for guards. The place command.

The skill is worked out after the dog has mastered the styling technique. Having laid the dog down and leaving his thing near it, the trainer moves away from it for 5-6 steps and calls to him with the command “come to me!”. Command execution is encouraging. After a short exposure, pointing the dog in the direction of its original place with the right hand, commanding “place!”, with slight twitches of the leash, returns the dog to its place, lays it down and fixes it with a treat and smoothing. By repeating the command "come to me!" achieves the return of the dog to its original place and its occupation of the original position of laying. Periodically, the trainer approaches the dog that has returned to its place and encourages it.

The reception is improved by increasing the distance between the dog and the trainer up to 20-30 m, followed by the execution of the command without a leash.

Typical trainer error

designation of the place with an aportation object.

Security of things

The skill is required for service dogs, except draft dogs. Owners of some hunting and lap dogs teach them this skill for domestic use. The "guard" command.

Training begins with teaching the dog not to give a stranger a thing, an object that is well known to the dog, to guard it, for example, a chock, a leash, a trainer’s bag, etc. Having tied the dog and putting a chock on the ground a little in front of it, the trainer commands “guard!” and takes a few steps back. Appeared trainer's assistant ("stranger") approaches the dog and holds out his hand to the chock or thing. The dog, naturally, is alert, snarls and tries to pull the chock or thing towards him, which is approved by the trainer with the exclamations of “guard! guard! Fine!".

Indifferent to a stranger, the assistant trainer begins to anger the dog, swings at it, inflicts light blows, lets the dog take the thing from him, teases again and runs away. The trainer sets the dog on the assistant, encouraging this activity.

In the following sessions, the trainer goes into hiding from the dog and observes her behavior from a distance. The trainer quickly approaches the dog, which immediately barks at the approaching helper, and commands “OK! guard!"

A further complication of the reception consists in increasing the time from the moment the trainer leaves for shelter until he returns, then by the helper's attempts to divert the dog's attention from the thing by offering and throwing a delicacy; if this succeeds, it is necessary to take the thing, hit the dog and run away. The trainer, who appeared from the shelter, commands the dog “guard!” with a more strict intonation. and gives her another thing of her own. The activity of the dog immediately encourages with a treat, stroking, allowing you to pat the assistant by the sleeve.

In the next stage of training, things and objects for protection are diversified (headgear, bag, briefcase, etc.), the places of employment and the number of assistants (“violators”) are changed. Offering the dog a treat, the helper gives familiar commands.

Typical mistakes of the trainer:

too strong influence of the assistant on the dog - blows to the head and ears;
the indifferent behavior of the trainer himself, who does not help the dog, is indifferent to its activity;
communication, conversations, conversations of a trainer with an assistant (“violator”) with a dog;
premature admission to the protected item of 2-3 assistants trying to take the item.

Of course, all dog owners face this issue. Some think about him in the process of buying a puppy, some when the dog already brings a lot of problems. Then the first question disappears (obviously it was necessary to start earlier) and the second one remains. In order to once and for all determine the courses and terms, this article was written.

When to start training?

Formation of typological features nervous system dogs occurs at the age of 3-7 months. It is during this period that stereotypes of behavior in a given situation are formed, and it is during this period that it is most effective to train, and not retrain a dog. To form in her a certain stereotype of behavior is convenient and suitable for the owner. From 3 months old your dog is already used to the outdoors and you can contact a training instructor to start a program that will suit you and your dog. You may spend 6-8 months on training in the obedience program, but believe me, it will be much better than training on the playground in a group, especially when the dog gets there at the age of 8-9 months. The results can't even be compared.

Classes with a professional instructor will bring joy to you and your dog. Perhaps your pet will open up a lot of talents and abilities, and your life will be full. interesting events, and the dog will live his life with a purpose, and not just lying on the couch and chasing pigeons in the street. And now more specifically.

How to properly train a dog?

In our country, you and your dog may be offered to undergo both national types of training (OKD, ZKS, etc.) and international ones (IPO, BH). What to prefer? This is discussed below. I will make a reservation right away that the most common, and, therefore, the most necessary courses for training a dog and its owner, were awarded my attention.

OKD (general training course)

It was originally developed as a military-applied standard for the needs of the Soviet army. It contains both commands of general obedience, necessary in urban conditions (to me, next to me, sit, lie down), and special ones (fetching, overcoming obstacles). The main course offered on the sites. The standard does not check the dog's ability to execute commands in standard urban conditions. This is a minus. The unhealthy situation at the training grounds and the lack of necessary knowledge among the trainers leads to the fact that a person, having passed the OKD course with his dog and even received a diploma of the 1st degree, practically does not know how to control his dog either on the site, let alone in the city. But this is already a problem of our sites and instructors, and not a standard. So, OKD- a good standard, but should be given Special attention dog management in the city. It is worth choosing if your dog needs working certificates for matings or participation in exhibitions, or if you need a manageable dog. Participation in competitions is possible only within the country.

ZKS (protective guard service)

Also, the military-applied standard, the dog is trained to select someone else's thing, protect things, refuse food, detain, sew up the trainer, check the attitude to the shot. If you chose this particular standard, then you should not enroll in a group, because:

1. In a group, a dog can work to delay, feeling the support of the pack and succumbing to the general chaos, and you will never recognize his behavior when faced with danger head-on.

2. The dog overheats, and in further training may refuse to work, because for a long time (1.5 -2 hours) it is in a state of tension and stress. It hasn't helped anyone yet. Many qualities that the dog possessed at the initial stage (for example, grip, calm confident fight with the decoy) can be lost.

3. In groups, very little attention is paid to your dog, or rather her. individual characteristics, and all the actions of the trainer in order to save time are designed for a specific template. It will be better if, according to this standard, you and your dog will work individually, having worked after passing the standard on situational training.

Attention! If your dog has a pronounced passive-defensive reaction (in human words, he is afraid of noise, new objects, strangers and mistrustfully behaves with strangers), it is better to consult with the instructor again before you start training. ZKS, as, in principle, with any protective standard. You can’t go against genetics, but get it socially dangerous dog maybe two counts. And even if you have a dog service breed. Moreover, it is useless to engage in protective activities with dog breeds that do not have an active-defensive reaction (protective instinct), such as, for example, a Labrador, Bernese Mountain Dog or Collie. It is very sad to see these poor animals on some sites that do not understand what their owners want from them. Trainers, apparently, are only interested in the commercial aspect, which, in general, is not in their favor.

So, this standard should be chosen if working diplomas are needed, you need protective dog(subject to individual lessons and the use of situational training). Participation in competitions is possible only within the country.

UGS (controlled city dog)

Apparently, this is an analogue of VN (see below): a minimum of commands - a maximum of controllability. Ideally, if all dogs living in the city (from a poodle to a mastiff) passed this standard, especially those dogs for which OKD and ZKS or IPO are impossible, and even unnecessary. Worth choosing if you need a manageable city dog.

ZGS (protective city dog)

Apparently, this is a protective standard that is closest to urban conditions (unfortunately, the data on the previous two standards are not registered anywhere, and therefore I only tell what I saw myself). The dog works for the helper in the suit, not for the hand (like the ZKS or IPO). About the pros and cons of this work a separate conversation. The work of one dog with several "intruders". It is worth choosing this course if you need a protection dog, you want to compete in "Russian ring". Particular attention should be paid to the management of the dog for protection and its socialization.

IPO (International Dog Testing Order)

Includes three sections: trace, obedience, protection. Complicated standard, designed for 1-2 years of training, depending on the dog and the goals set by the owner (passing the standard or performing at competitions). It is safe to say that not every dog IPO under force. Some people who think that IPO is a "toy" sport are very much mistaken. This standard has, perhaps, the best scientific study.

It is worth choosing it if your dog's abilities are above average, you need diplomas, you need a well-managed guard dog, you want to compete in Russian and International competitions. In case you need a comfortable dog to keep in the city or a real protection dog, then this course is also completely suitable. But then special attention should be paid to management and protection in the conditions of the city (situational training).

SchH (protective dog, German training standard)

It is almost identical to the IPO. Accordingly, what is written above applies to him.

VN (companion dog)

German obedience standard. There are: commands of general obedience ("to me", "next", "sit", "lie down"). No: barriers, fetching. The ideal standard for training a dog living in the city, as the test includes both the control of the dog on the site and the control in the city. It is worth choosing: in view of the above, diplomas are quoted, but are not necessary for admission to breeding, they are, as it were, passing, since it is assumed that after passing this standard, a SchH or IPO will follow.

Summing up, we can say the following: each of these standards has the right to life. Each of these standards corresponds to one most important task: the most comfortable dog for life. The result of training will directly depend on your dog, you and your training instructor. I wish you and your dog good luck in this difficult, but certainly interesting process - training.

Agility

First I would like to tell you about such a wonderful sport with a dog as agility. This sport is very popular all over the world. Many people do it with their dog, thereby realizing it and their need for movement and communication. If you do not set yourself very high goals, then any dog of any breed that loves an active life is suitable for training. I know from experience that in real life agility help find mutual language with your dog, as well as improve its handling. Briefly, the following can be said about agility: it is overcoming obstacles for speed, as clean as possible (that is, without violating the sequence established by the judge, without knocking down projectiles and touching the penalty areas). In agility, all dogs are divided into 3 growth categories: small (S, up to 34.99 cm at the withers), medium (M, from 35 to 42.99 cm) and large (L, from 43 cm). In agility, there are the following types of tracks: classic and jumping (a track with various barriers, without stopping zones). As in every sport, there are favorites here. According to statistics, the most promising dog breeds are: border collie, sheltie, spitz, belgian shepherds and poodle, but at the championships you can meet a dog of any breed: schnauzers of all varieties, and hunters, and terriers.

In agility, competitions of various levels are held: Russian championships, ratings, as well as world championships. IN Lately our country is a leader in this sport. At the world championships, our dogs take first place, which is very nice. Very often the agility course is offered at many sites, after passing it, you will be offered to join the team (if your dog is promising) or continue "for fun". I remember on the same site for several years the owner was engaged with his alabai. Both were happy...

obedience

International standard for dog obedience. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that during the competition several dogs participate in this process. Watching the competition is very interesting, as it is possible to compare in real time which of the dogs performed this or that exercise better. It is very popular in Europe and America. At many specialized exhibitions, competitions are held in parallel obedience. Of course, the standard is primarily designed for companion dogs. Russia currently hosts two championships a year. Unlike agility, where our dogs correspond to the world level, the level of training in obedience still leaves much to be desired.

Mondioring

Tests on the "world" ring. Combines elements of the French and Belgian ring. The dog's skills are tested in non-standard situations: moving side by side, when the handler rolls a carriage in front of him, guarding things, while the "thing" is a little girl, etc. There are a lot of such lotions in this sport. From this it becomes very interesting, and, of course, difficult. Main favorites: Malinois, but there are also American Bulldogs, and Staffords, and Cane Corso. Not available in Russia. There are people who try to do something, but what they get does not always look good. mondiering.

flyball

The meaning of this sport is that the dog needs to overcome several barriers on its own, then press the pedal of the box from which the tennis ball shoots. Having caught the ball, the dog must return to the owner, of course, again overcoming the barriers. This is a very dynamic sport, for speedy, agile dogs. Watching him is a pleasure. In the mid-90s, I observed several dogs trained under the program flyball. At this time, I find it difficult to answer the question of whether there is a flyball in Russia, I have not seen it yet.

FH

German standard for advanced tracking work. It contains two stages: FH I and FH 2. Dogs that have passed IPO I, or BH, are allowed to compete. Mainly involved in FH german shepherds, Belgian Shepherds, but there are also Rottweilers and Dobermans. The track in FH is very difficult and therefore the dogs that win the world championships in this sport are very well known and respected. The first FH championship was held in Russia in October.

Weight Pulling

Dog dragging competitions. Homeland - America, and as a result - the greatest achievements in this country. A very exciting sport. A good alternative for using pit bull terriers in a legal sport (harassment of people involved in matches is very strong in America). Main favorites: american pit bull terriers, American Staffords and American Bulldogs. Essence: move the cart with the imposed load behind minimum time. The weight taken is divided by the weight of the dog, the result is how many times it exceeded the dog's own weight. The record holder is a pit bull who took 2000 kg with a body weight of 25 kg. There are also approved rules in which dogs are divided into weight categories, points are awarded for each competition won. A dog can get a championship title in this sport. Competitions are held both with the use of a cart on rails, and by dragging (in winter). In winter, competitions are held among northern sled dogs (huskies, malamutes), the results are also very impressive. World championships are held. Competitions are also organized in Russia, the level of dogs and training is not very good yet, but the main thing is that a start has been made.

First, let's talk about the concept of "training", what is it? Training is the training of a dog in commands that will be carried out by it in any conditions with the appropriate sign of the owner. In the process of training, the execution of commands is fixed in the dog as a conditioned reflex, which allows the owner to control the dog's behavior both while it is at home and during walks.

Training is the key to the safety of others and the dog itself. trained dog will not run after a ball or a cat and accidentally fall under a car, will not pick up food lying on the ground, will not run away from the owner and, of course, will not disturb a person passing by.

Competent and reliable training is a rather complicated process, since the goal of training is not just to show the dog how to give a paw, but to teach it to unquestioningly carry out the commands and tasks of the owner, instill in it the norms and rules of behavior, as well as develop and strengthen its skills. Therefore, even if you are already an experienced dog breeder, training a dog is recommended with the involvement of a professional.

As a rule, such a training process is built in 4 ways:

The specialist temporarily takes the dog and trains it on its territory.

The specialist comes to you and trains the dog 2-3 times a week.

The specialist explains the theoretical and practical parts to you, and then you train the dog yourself under his supervision.

You and your dog are engaged in a special area allocated for training under the supervision of an instructor.

The owner of the dog chooses the most convenient way for him to train, however the most successful is the third way when the instructor first works with the owner of the dog, and then the owner of the dog trains his pet under the supervision of a professional. Why is this method more effective than others? The fact is that for successful training, the contact "owner-dog" is very important. Method number 3 implies that the owner, already informed about all the intricacies of training, works with his dog himself, and the dog perceives him as the undisputed leader. An alternative to such training is method number 4 - classes on the training ground. This method is also effective, but unlike the third one, it is of a group rather than an individual nature.

With the first method training often happens like this: you are returned perfectly trained dog, which knows and executes all commands, but ... she refuses to obey the owner! The fact is that in the process of training the dog begins to perceive the instructor as a leader, she gets used to his confident commands, to his gestures, to interaction with him, and mutual understanding has not yet been built with you, you just have to establish contact.

Second way training may not be successful, as the dog has to work with two or more people. A trainer trains the dog several days a week, and the owner takes care of it the rest of the time. Unfortunately, often what the trainer manages to put into the dog is successfully destroyed by the inexperience of the owner, i.e. the effect of anti-training is created.

Usually the training process takes about 4 months. To some, this period may seem rather big, but what is 4 months when it comes to the basics of the correct behavior of a dog throughout its life?

You can often hear that the key to quality training is compliance with the rule of three "P" - constancy, gradualness, consistency.

permanence implies regular training, which harmoniously alternates with games, a walk and time for rest. The boundaries between these activities should not be too obvious, it is better if the dog perceives training as an exciting activity, an enjoyable part of his day. Don't forget to alternate over intensive mode workouts with longer rest periods and vice versa. Do not allow the dog to overwork, and his attention is scattered: the dog needs to be attentive and energetic in order to obey your command at any time. It is advisable to train at different times and, if possible, in different places, so that the training process does not become routine and does not lose its effectiveness.

Under gradualism the order of training and the degree of load on the dog being trained are implied. During training, the dog must not be overloaded either on a physical or neuropsychic level. Remember, it is better to shorten the training program than to overwork the dog, as such training will not be effective. If you see that your dog is tired, has stopped concentrating on your actions and is reluctant to follow commands, let him rest, play with him or let him play with other dogs. You can not punish the dog if he was tired or frightened of something and this prevented him from following the commands.

Subsequence implies a smooth plan for developing skills in accordance with their complexity. That is, throughout the entire training, it is necessary to move from simple to complex, in no case in the reverse order. Pet requirements and team difficulty should increase gradually. Also, this rule can be attributed to the chain "successful execution of the command - encouragement." If you are practicing difficult moves, first teach your dog how to do the component parts of those moves. Work on complex techniques sequentially: move on to the next only when the previous one is fixed.

The rule of three "P" will not only make your training more effective and will not allow you to overwork the dog, but also help you and your pet tune in to a wave of mutual understanding and excellent contact.

Training methods

The main methods are mechanical, contrast, imitative, food, game and other methods.

Mechanical training method, of course, implies mechanical impact on the dog in the process of learning its commands. For example, when you teach a dog to walk beside you, you act on it with a leash, pulling it sharply to the left leg.

By contrast method they call the “carrot and stick” method familiar to everyone, i.e. alternation of pleasant and unpleasant effects. For example, a dog can be led to perform the required action by exerting uncomfortable pressure on it, once the dog has completed the given command, it must be praised and treated with a treat.

imitative method is quite effective, it is based on your dog imitating the actions of a person, a group of people, another dog or a group of dogs.

food method is based on strong motivation: the dog experiences light feeling hunger and performs various, including rather complex commands, to get a treat.

game method- this is perhaps the most favorite method for dogs, which allows you to train them to execute commands by imitating normal play. For example, the game method is the basis for training dogs to overcome obstacles, etc.

There are other methods of training dogs, if you wish, you can familiarize yourself with them in more detail, starting to train your pet. Please note that during the training process you will need various attributes, such as a leash, a muzzle, a hoop, toys for dogs, etc.

Learned skills are those that are unconditionally performed by the dog, regardless of the situation and location.

When starting training, keep in mind that this is a serious process that requires a responsible and careful approach. You have to establish contact with the dog and show him that you are not just a friend, but also a leader, and that he must follow your commands. It depends on your skill, responsibility and patience how the dog learns commands.

Do not forget that the success of the student depends on the professionalism of the teacher, and be the best mentor for your pet!

The animal world is closely adjacent to the world of people. Sometimes it's just existence in different planes. For example, we know that bears and wolves live in the forests, and elephants and giraffes live in the tropics, but we do not have close contact with them. The maximum is the opportunity to contact them visually and even less often tactilely in circuses and zoos.

In other cases, we interact closely with pets: those that live in apartments and those that live outside the city.

Any animals, in some cases even wild ones, are largely dependent on humans. That is why professions associated with our smaller brothers are common.

Theory and practice in the animal world

Among the huge number of specialties that are associated with the world of animals, the following main areas of activity can be distinguished: theoretical and practical.

Theorists of working with the animal world can be combined into one concept - zoologists. In particular, these are professions related to nature and living beings, bordering on biology. Theorists consider questions from the species and type of an organism to its structure, their habitat and their interaction with each other. These include:

Ornithologists.
Entomologists.
Paleontologists.
Ichthyologists.
Herpetologists.
Serpentologists.

Practitioners work directly with wild animals and pets, interact with them. Practical professions related to animals (the list of professions is quite large) can also be divided into main groups.

Animal health

The most important thing in the life of people and in the life of animals is health. Based on this, important specialties are:

Vet.

Engaged in preventive and curative work. He also performs surgical operations, including emergency ones. The veterinarian takes tests, conducts examinations on the appropriate equipment, vaccinates and sterilizes his four-legged patients. He also deals with dental problems and delivers. In addition to direct medical activities, a veterinarian can take care of animals - cutting nails, brushing teeth.

Zoopsychologist.

Responsible for mental and mental health their subordinates. Studying habits, behavior, emotions, reactions. He specializes in working with the fears of animals, evens out inappropriate behavior, relieves stress and even depression in representatives of the fauna.

Training and education of animals

Let's say we take care of our health. The question arises: what are the professions associated with animals, aimed at education and training?

Cynologist.

Works with dogs. He brings up service dogs that work in law enforcement agencies, at combat points and in the detention of dangerous criminals. Also, these dogs are trained to search for people and dangerous objects. They work with search engines and with the threat of terrorism. In addition to service dogs, the cynologist trains guide dogs, which are the "eyes" of blind people. The cynologist conducts compulsory training courses for dogs of all breeds, and also prepares animals for exhibitions and competitions.

Trainer.

A specialty similar to cynologist, but with a wider scope and various types animals, both domestic and wild. The trainer works with animals in the circus, zoo, filming.

Animal care

Every animal needs care. This requires professions related to the care of animals.

Groomers.

modern specialty. Includes several specializations that were previously separated. The responsibilities of the groomer include overseeing appearance pet. Their task is to bring the pet in order: haircut, washing, cutting nails, brushing teeth. You can also get advice on the care and maintenance of your tailed friend from a dog stylist.

Aquarists.

The name speaks for itself. These are specialists in working with aquariums, their contents and directly the inhabitants of aquariums.

Unique profession - Animal Therapists

Professions related to animals include not only work directly with our smaller brothers, but also one slightly different direction - animal therapy (zootherapy). Animal therapists work with people who have serious physical and psychical deviations. They carry out prevention and treatment with the participation of animals.

Well-known methods are:

Hippotherapy - treatment with the help of horses. The main focus of work is patients with disorders of the musculoskeletal system. And also such treatment is used to restore the consequences of traumatic brain injuries and to improve cerebral circulation.
Canistherapy - treatment with the help of dogs. Most often, dogs help small patients with congenital pathologies nervous and motor systems.
Felinoterapiya - treatment with the help of cats. Practiced with patients with psycho-emotional disorders, nervous diseases and diseases of the cardiovascular system.
Dolphin therapy is a targeted treatment of acquired and congenital diseases nervous system in adults and children.

All kinds of professions are needed, all kinds of professions are important

Having singled out the main professions related to animals, it is necessary to dwell on some others. They are less popular, but no less important for our smaller brothers.

Livestock specialists, farmers, grooms.

These are people who work on zoo farms and in the livestock industry. Their work is not noticeable to the average person, but their contribution to the life of animals is undeniably tangible.

Sales consultants for pet salons and veterinary pharmacies.

People with experience and an array of knowledge in their field. The comfort and even health of pets largely depends on their advice and consultations.

Handlers.

Assistant cinematographers. These are narrow specialists. Their task is to prepare the animal for an exhibition or competition.

Of course, all professions related to animals, and each separately, are important, and it is quite difficult to do without one or another specialist.

The most important thing that characterizes all people working with and for animals is benevolence, compassion, self-confidence and the ability to respond quickly even in the most unusual situations.

Professions related to nature and animals require great responsibility.

How do you know if a dog trainer is good? Do you know that there are not only professional instructors, but also those people for whom raising dogs means only a way to earn money? The concepts of “controlled city dog”, “behavior correction”, “general training course” have become very popular in last years. Organizations called school for dogs are springing up like mushrooms. Not surprising, because the profession of an animal training instructor is not supported by the state. There is no state specialty that would be called "dog trainer". Anyone can call themselves a trainer. Knowing this, you should take the choice of a coach even more seriously. Remember that the training methods used by the training specialist affect not only the behavior of your pet. The upbringing of dogs affects the trust of a four-legged friend in the owner, today and in the future. Before you start looking for a trainer, you need to understand exactly what result you expect from training. Whether you want to raise a dog for the family, you need a reliable guard or you dream of a companion for playing sports on fresh air? Trainer who primarily trains dogs small breeds hardly suitable for training your Alabai in protective service. Once you have chosen an instructor, first of all pay attention to how he behaves. own dog and how he communicates with her. Does the dog obey him without the use of force? If a dog trainer yells at his pet, he will do the same to yours. If his own dog constantly jumps on him or sticks to passers-by, such a trainer will absolutely not be able to explain to you how to get rid of similar behavior Your pet! To avoid disappointment, ask yourself and your future trainer a few questions: Education Ask who trained your dog trainer and where? Three weekend seminars or four-week courses are not enough to do such a responsible job. This should be at least 6 months of training at a well-known school with a master trainer. Experience How long has the instructor been working in the field? This refers to the professional education of dogs, and not amateur classes with your own pet. Ask him how many dogs he has already trained and how they show results. Job references Can your trainer provide references from professionals or other dog owners? These can be letters of thanks or references from breeders and veterinarians. Also, publications, shooting in TV shows, cooperation with nurseries and shelters can serve as a recommendation. Watch the process of work. Ask to see the videos taken during his lessons. Ask if all family members are free to attend classes? If not, say goodbye to him immediately. Pay attention to how the trainer reacts when something goes wrong with the dog. How does he behave towards his owners? A dog trainer who is rude, in a bad mood, unfriendly, it is better to cross out immediately. Dog Training Methods Serious dog trainers are known for their humane work practices and kindness to animals. They know that brutal methods can negatively affect the learning outcome. Professionals own several methods of training and can vary them. What works for one pet may not work for another. Only an experienced dog trainer can immediately find the right approach temperament and general characteristics Your four-legged friend. Equipment Pay attention to what equipment the instructor uses in class. If he always has a whip, an electric collar or a planer at the ready, this should alert you. These items are used in the classroom. defensive course where defense and attack skills are developed. In work with novice pets or dogs of decorative breeds, such equipment should not be used. Methods of education that cause pain to animals, introduce them into a state of stress or physically maim them are absolutely unacceptable! This dog school needs to be left immediately! Ability to communicate The job of a dog trainer is to teach the owner how to manage their pet. Pay attention to how clearly he gives explanations, whether he is polite. The trainer must make sure that classes are a joy for you and your pet. He must show respect and sympathy. Good specialist explains and analyzes the behavior of the dog, gives recommendations based on its individual characteristics. Are there any guarantees? Calmly ask the dog trainer if he guarantees a specific training result. Remember that the existence of such a guarantee does not correspond to reality! A good instructor will tell you that based on what he will apply effective methods You can be sure that you will be satisfied with the lessons. Perhaps he will add that your motivation and diligent homework play a decisive role in success. A dose of humor Dog training certainly requires discipline, but this process must bring pleasure to its participants! A little humor and a kind smile add a refreshing touch to the lesson. Alpha status Dominance, hierarchy and alpha status exist, of course, but they should not be considered the root cause of everything in the world, as some people think. Most behavior problems have nothing to do with these definitions. As a rule, the reason for this is inconsistent dog training, lack of communication and lack of proper attention. Don't work with instructors who say, "All you have to do is explain to him/her who is the boss in the house." It's okay if the dog sleeps on your couch. This will not harm her or you in any way (unless, of course, the coat bothers you). Love for animals and your work If you find a dog trainer with these important qualities, you will understand it right away. The joy of communicating with our smaller brothers makes his eyes burn. Your inner voice will tell you - this is HE! An important note: a dog will accept a good trainer from the first minute of the meeting!