Eating flower leaves in the garden. Houseplant pests. How to treat elecampane flower diseases

Aphid

Symptoms: Leaves are sticky. Deformed young shoots, withering flowers.
Features of the pest: These are rather small insects of green color (black, orange, gray and green are found). It feeds on juice, sucking it out of the soft tissues of the plant.
Method of struggle: At the initial stage, spraying with a soapy solution or nettle decoction is used, which is prepared in this way: 100 g of fresh nettle is soaked in 1 liter of water for 12-24 hours, then the plant is sprayed. Use without diluting, repeatedly. In a more advanced case, the most damaged parts of the plant are removed and treated with permethrin-containing preparations or derris is used.
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soft-skinned or cyclamen mite

Signs: The leaves are twisted and drying, the shoots have dried brown tops, the flowers dry up in buds.
Features of the pest: The smallest mites, accumulating in large quantities, resemble a layer of dust on the leaves from below. Settles on the underside of the leaves. They love humidity and cool temperatures.
Method of struggle: In case of severe damage, the plant should be disposed of. With a slight - it is enough to remove the diseased parts. You can use Karbofos, Neoron, Decis, Intavir, Fitoverm.
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holes in the leaves

Signs: Etched holes in the leaves, spoiled young shoots.
Features of the pest: At night, the caterpillar crawls out and eats leaves and shoots. During the day it hides under leaves and in flower buds.
Way of fighting: Used manual way collecting caterpillars. If the plant is exposed to the street, it can be sprayed for prevention.

Symptoms: There are holes on the leaves. Perhaps the complete disappearance of leaf tissue.
Features of the pest: Dark brown in color with 2 tick-borne appendages. It eats leaves at night and hides during the day.
Method of struggle: Insects are collected by hand.

Signs: On the leaves there is something similar to paths or moves.
Features of the pest: The defeat occurs mainly in the open air. The larvae of the mining fly gnaw their passages under the skin of the leaves.
Way of struggle: Affected leaves to pluck and destroy.

Snails, slugs

Signs: Gnawed leaves, shiny slime.
Pest Features: B room conditions snails, slugs usually do not live, as moist air is needed. But in a greenhouse, plants can be spoiled. They feed mainly at night. During the day they hide in damp places.
Method of struggle: Harvest by hand. Granular metaldehyde or mesurol can be sprayed on the soil surface.

Centipedes

Symptoms: Eaten basal stems and lower leaves.
Features of the pest: These insects are dark brown or whitish, reminiscent of caterpillars. Harm plants exposed in the summer to the garden.
Method of struggle: The soil in the pot should be dried and sprinkled with a layer of sand, ash can be used. Since centipedes love moisture, you can make a trap for them. A small plank is placed next to the plant, under which insects will subsequently gather. Now they can be collected.

Grape elephant or weevil

Symptoms: Bitten edges of leaves. Withering and drooping plant.
Features of the pest: Both beetles and larvae cause harm. Beetles gnaw on the edges of the leaves. Cream-colored larvae (up to 2.5 cm), live in the ground, feed on roots, bulbs and tubers.
Method of struggle: If bugs appear on the leaves, you need to irrigate with a systemic insecticide, as well as treat the leaves.

White spots and white bloom on leaves and soil

Symptoms: White, cotton-like deposits are visible on the leaves. With a heavy lesion, the leaves wither, turn yellow, fall off.
Pest Features: Small insects covered with fluff white color, settling in large colonies on leaves and stems.
Method of struggle: Increase the humidity of the air. Place the plant in a cool place.
Remove plaque with a soft damp cloth. In case of severe damage, systemic insecticides are used for spraying. With a small lesion, repeatedly lubricate with a brush with the following solution: dilute 20 g of liquid soap in 1 liter of hot water, cool, add 20 ml of alcohol.

Signs: Whitish spots appear on the leaves, then they turn yellow, the leaves fall off. You can see sugary secretions left by insects. develops on them.
Features of the pest: A flying insect (up to 3 mm), similar to white moths. Attached to the underside of the leaves. The larvae are pale green in color and oblong in shape. Eggs look like grayish grains.
Method of struggle: Next to the plants, hang flypaper for flies. Eggs and larvae are regularly washed off the leaves. The underside of the leaves is sprayed up to 5 times green soap with an interval of 7 days. You can use an infusion of garlic.
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Signs: Under the influence of the activity of mites, a thin whitish web appears under the leaves and between them. On the top side leaves become yellowish spots. Leaves fall ahead of time.
Features of the pest: Adult mites are small (from 0.3 to 0.5 mm), red and purple-red. This small sucking arthropod that lives on the underside of leaves is quite common. It can affect almost all indoor plants located in a warm, dry room. May be carried by the wind.
Method of struggle: Increase humidity, regularly spray the plant. When noticing signs of a mite, a derris or systemic insecticide should be used to spray. You can prepare an infusion of chamomile. To do this, take 100 g of dried chamomile flowers and insist them for 12 hours in 1 liter of water. Dilute 1:3 before use.
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Symptoms: White or slightly yellowish streaked spots on leaves. As a result, the skin dies, cracks, and the leaves twist and deform.
Features of the pest: Brown or green. Reaches a size of up to 0.6 mm. The tick lays dark red eggs on leaves.
Method of struggle: The stems and leaves are wiped with soapy water on both sides. With a significant lesion, spraying with insecticides (fitoverm, agravertin, neoron, fufan,) is carried out.

Aphid root (root worm)

Yellow leaves or yellow spots

Signs: The leaves turn yellow, then the plant wilts and dies. The root system is affected.
Features of the pest: Located in the ground. Insects look like small white worms that settle at the roots of the plant and feed on them.
Way of struggle: Remove old earth, wash the roots and plant in good soil.

Signs: Yellow leaves, the growth of the plant stops, it fades.
Features of the pest: Lives in the soil. More often it affects cacti, bulbous plants, palm trees.
Method of struggle: maintain sufficient soil moisture. The diseased plant is watered about 3 times with preparations containing pyrethrum.

Root nematode, root gall

Signs: Sticky leaves, covered in places with yellowish spots. With heavy damage, they dry and fall off.
Features of the pest: Insects with a broad oval body of a brownish-brown color. They are found on the upper and lower sides of leaves, plant stems, shoots. Adults are immobile, only larvae settle.
Method of struggle: Regularly inspect the plant, especially at the bottom. If you notice isolated cases of scale settlement, then it is better to remove it along with the leaf. With a more extensive lesion, use a soft cloth or brush moistened with soapy water or a solution of anabazine sulfate, or alcohol. Residues are cleaned with a weak solution of vinegar. In this way, you can deal with adults, but invisible larvae remain on the leaves. Repeat 3 sprays within 12 days with a solution of green potassium soap (20-30 g per 1 liter of water) or garlic infusion.
Detailed article about the shield.

Brown and brown spots on leaves

Signs: Brown-brown spots are visible on the underside of the damaged leaf, and whitish and silvery streaks are visible on the upper side, which are left by thrips when crawling from leaf to leaf. Further, the leaves may turn yellow, dry out and fall off. The flowers are covered with spots, deformed.
Features of the pest: Insect with an oblong and black body with two pairs of wings. It lays white larvae, which later become light yellow and have a transparent bubble on the back. They are collected on the underside of the leaf near its veins. Eggs are laid in leaf tissue.
Method of struggle: The leaves are washed with water and dissolved laundry soap. For complete destruction, pyrethrum diluted in water (per 1 liter of water 2 g) is used for spraying, which is done twice with an interval of 8-10 days. They also use a weakly toxic drug thiophos (0.1-0.2%) or moderately toxic drugs - Nurell-D, Vertimek. Gives results and spraying with decoction of tubers, infusion of tobacco and yarrow. For prevention, it is important to spray the plant with water, maintaining sufficient humidity.

Signs: Tick moves are visible. The affected parts of the plant are filled with brown dust.
Features of the pest: Small (up to 1 mm) yellowish or white mites that infect bulbous, tuberous plants, orchids.
Method of struggle: Affected bulbs and tubers are destroyed. The earth is dried up.

Withering plant. Damaged root system.

Springtails, or podura

Signs: Withering plant. Tidy heaps of earth are observed on the surface of the earth. Insects are clearly visible under the pot in the tray and on the surface of the soil.
Features of the pest: Very mobile jumping insects from 1 to 4 millimeters of various colors (from light to black). Depending on the species, they live in the ground, on the surface of the soil. Significant harm is usually not brought to the plant.
Method of struggle: It is necessary to dry the earth in a flower pot. Sprinkle a layer of sand on top. In case of severe infection, immerse the pot in water, collect emerging insects, and treat the surface with insecticides. Dry the earth.

Earthworms

Signs: Causeless wilting, depressed plant appearance. There are characteristic heaps of earth on the pallet.
Features of the pest: Large worms that feed on plant debris. With a shortage of food, they switch to underground shoots and roots.
Method of struggle: Watering is carried out with a weak pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Crawling worms are collected. You can put the pot in hot water(50 degrees) and hold for 15 minutes. When taking the plant outside, put the pots higher so that the worms cannot climb. Sterilization of garden and forest land will help to destroy the eggs of worms.

Signs: Plants wither and wither. Damaged young roots.
Features of the pest: They are also called mushroom mosquitoes. These are dark-colored midges 3-4 mm in size, with long whiskers. They hatch from white larvae with a black head and a length of approximately 4 mm. Mosquitoes themselves are not dangerous. And their larvae eat biological residues and young roots.
Method of struggle: Against adults, an aerosol is used to kill flying insects or collected with a vacuum cleaner. For the death of the larvae, Bazudin, Thunder-2 are used. A layer of sand of 0.5 cm is poured on the surface of the earth

Signs: Plants wither and wither. Damaged root system.
Pest Features: Live in compost heaps, consuming organic residues. Experiencing a lack of food in a flower pot, insects can feed on plant roots.
Method of struggle: Use the manual method of collecting centipedes.

Signs: The plant wilts, the root system is damaged.
Pest Features: Beetles oval shape dark color about 2 centimeters long spoil the leaves. Their cream-colored larvae are dangerous, living in the soil and eating roots, tubers, and bulbs.
Method of struggle: As a preventive and therapeutic measure the soil is watered with a systemic insecticide. 5,00 /5 (votes: 3 )

How to recognize pests on indoor plants? How to deal with bugs, spiders and ticks? Experienced flower growers recommend proven methods of dealing with uninvited "guests".

Causes of pests on indoor plants

How to get rid of at home? Check out the selection effective means and learn how to use them.

How to recognize insects? How to deal with them - the answers to these questions will help amateur growers keep plants in perfect condition.

Mealybug

Chemical control:

• Fitoverm.
• Actellik.
• Calypso.
• Biotlin.

Folk methods:

• tincture with lemon or orange zest;
• soap-alcohol solution;
• flower treatment with running water;
• garlic infusion;
• decoction of field horsetail;
• mixture of water and olive oil.

spider mite

Pest characteristics:

How to get rid of:

How to fight:

• sufficient watering: do not like a humid environment;
• regular inspection, mechanical removal of pests;
• treatment and systemic insecticides that penetrate the roots, stems, leaves of indoor flowers.

Effective Methods:

• soap solution against thrips. Prepare a strong foam, apply generously on problem areas, carefully process all the leaves on which traces of the activity of harmful creatures are visible. For a noticeable effect, experienced flower growers recommend washing off home remedy only a day later. During this period, not only adults will die, but also thrips eggs. After the procedure, rinse the greens well with clean water;
• sticky tapes located near plants, help to get rid of pests. The sight of insects stuck to the sticky surface worsens the aesthetic perception of the home flower garden, but for the sake of fighting thrips, it is worth enduring temporary inconvenience;
• decoction potato tops - a proven folk remedy against thrips. Steam half a bucket of green mass with boiling water (how much will go in), leave for 8 hours, remove leaves and stems, strain the product. Spray infected plants daily.

Important! The fight will be successful with repeated spraying of the affected areas with insecticidal-acaricidal agents. You will need potent compounds: Karbofos, Fitoverm, Karate. The neurotoxins contained in the preparations Apache, Mosilpan are effective. The hosts positively evaluate the action combined remedy Gaupsin. Bioinsecticide and fungicide actively fights adults, eggs of harmful insects.

Shchitovka

How to fight:

• with a small number of insects, remove them mechanically, wipe the leaves with alcohol or soapy water, in case of severe infection, cut off the affected leaves, burn;
• the method is effective for the destruction of adults.

How to scare away and how to prevent the re-invasion of gray pests? We have an answer!

Go to the address and learn about how to get rid of bed bugs in the apartment forever.

To combat eggs, you will need insecticides:

• Permethrin.
• Malathion.
• insecticidal soap.

Treat with toxic compounds not only the stem, leaves, but also the soil, in which insect eggs are often found. On the first day, application is required in the morning and evening, over the next ten days, one daily procedure is sufficient. To protect the flower, repel insects, spray the plant 1 time in 4 weeks.

Prevention measures

Compliance with the rules for caring for indoor flowers reduces the risk of pests. Each type of plant has its own norms of humidity, lighting, top dressing.

Basic Rules:

• optimal temperature regime;
• watering according to the norm for a particular flower;
• enough sunlight or shade;
• regular loosening of the soil for active access of oxygen to the root system;
• fertilizer with the use of organic components and synthetic preparations;
• regular inspection of all parts of the plant to identify pests and diseases;
• drainage system that prevents moisture stagnation;
• timely flower transplant if the flowerpot is too small;
• treatment with compositions based on natural ingredients to repel harmful insects;
• inspection of leaves, stems, soil when buying a new plant: often dangerous insects enter the apartment from a flower shop.

Pests of indoor flowers interfere with the normal development of plants, worsen the condition of buds, greenery, and the root system. Information about thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites will help you understand how to recognize harmful bugs and mites, how to deal with dangerous insects.

Mold, rot and small insects do not give life to plants? In the next video helpful tips how to resolve eternal problem and cure plants from pests and diseases:

Marigolds are plants with fibrous roots, they have highly branched and erect stems.. Their height is 15-120 cm. They have many pinnately divided or pinnately dissected leaves, the arrangement of which is alternate or opposite. Their margins are serrated, rarely entire. The leaves are either light green or dark green depending on the species.

This plant has an inflorescence - a basket. Tubular flowers flaunt in its middle, and reed flowers surround them. The ratio of reed and tubular flowers is different, so some marigolds are terry, while others are simple. Their diameter is 12 cm. The color range varies from yellowish-white to brown or orange. A marvelous aroma emanates from them, in which spicy shades predominate. It is a pity that they bloom only from mid-June to late autumn.

You can learn about the types and varieties of perennial and annual marigolds, as well as see photos of the plant, and from you will learn about the varieties of undersized marigolds and the rules for caring for them.

Susceptibility to various diseases

ATTENTION: As mentioned above, flower growers love marigolds, as pests do not harm them. Sometimes they get sick too. This is easily guessed by the yellowed and deformed shoots.

Among the yellow plaque, black dots are visible, the size of which changes from day to day. If the plant blooms, then the buds and flowers on it are underdeveloped, ugly. He was struck by a viral disease that cannot be cured. The only way prevent the spread of marigold disease - digging up the roots and burning dried stems and flowers.

Read about why marigold buds turn black, leaves dry and wither and how to save the plant from death, and from you will learn about diseases and pests that can destroy a flower.

Who eats marigolds?

Slugs are the most dangerous pests. They gnaw the stems and eat the leaves. As soon as you notice them on the plant, it is important to start taking action.

Views from photo

Any pest will not cause severe harm to marigolds if you notice in time that they are withering. Timely identification of who eats leaves helps in the fight against him.

Basically, this pest harms young seedlings. A favorable environment for the spread of spider mites is dry indoor air. It will harm adult marigolds if the summer is dry and hot. If you do not take action and do not fight it at the stage of acquiring a whitish shade of leaves, they will begin to dry out and then die.

What to do if such a web appeared on the leaves? Just fight the spider mite. Increase the humidity in the room. Moist air is the only thing the tick is afraid of.

How to treat spider mites? Some flower growers, in addition to changing air humidity, treat marigolds with tobacco infusion. Two hundred grams of tobacco or shag are bred in three liters of water. Two days later (the solution is insisted before) it is filtered, and water is added to the rest to a volume of 10 liters. Laundry soap(50 mg) are crushed, added to the resulting tincture and stirred until completely dissolved.

ADVICE: The affected culture is treated with ready-made infusion of tobacco. Soon the spider mite will recede, as it cannot stand the smell of tobacco.

The worst pest is the aphid. She settles on stems, leaves, roots. She crawls, flies, but does not forget to hit parts of the plant. She sucks out cell sap and releases poison with it. Because of this, the leaves curl, deform and die. Aphids harm the shoots, as a result of which they practically do not grow. The tops under her "guidance" are bent. Flower growers notice aphids not only by the signs listed above, but also by sweet secretions on the leaf surface.

In addition to marigolds, aphids will harm other indoor and garden plants.. If you do not take action, all the cultures standing on the windowsill will wither and die.

How to deal with aphids? There are several ways to fight. Some flower growers believe that it disappears when the marigolds are sprayed with a stream from under the hose. Others use modern chemicals to combat it:

• Biotlin.
• Spark.
• Intavir.

IMPORTANT: To prevent the reappearance of aphids on parts of the plant, ten days later, another treatment is carried out. For prophylactic purposes, they are treated with one of the solutions listed above after precipitation.

Marigolds in the garden are harmed by snails and slugs that gnaw on stems and eat leaves. when the humidity is high indoors or the summer outside is not hot. Florists take action after noticing holes in large green leaves and eaten fleshy stems.

Beginners do not notice for a long time that someone is eating leaves, as slugs and snails harm him at night. The only thing they don't like during the day is slime on leaves, ground and stems.

So that the marigolds again please with flowering and an abundance of large green leaves, cut potatoes and apples are placed on the boards not far from them. Picking the pest by hand and sprinkling the soil next to them with a mixture of lime and ash also helps. Effective measure struggle - treatment of bushes with a solution of mustard (100 grams of powder is diluted in a bucket of water).

In nature, there are about 2 thousand species of thrips, which have been classified and identified one hundred varieties. In those that harm marigolds, the body is 0.5-14 mm long. They have mouthparts piercing-sucking type. The legs are slender, not in the least interfering with the run. On the paws, one tooth and a device that allows you to easily stick to the area you like on the plant.

Thrips do not eat leaves. They like buds. Holes are noticed on the petals, and soon the bud begins to rot and dry. He will die without revealing himself. Thrips are the only pest that will appear despite excellent care.

Though the heat, even the rain, they will drink the juice from them. In order not to fight them, they carry out preventive treatment of the garden with the onset of the first warm days in spring. Re-treatment is done in the summer, when the plant has gained color and will soon bloom.

If flower growers first planted marigolds, they do not know about prevention. They learn about thrips when the buds fall off. In this case, you need to cut them off, and spray the bushes with Fitoverm, Bison or Tsvetolux Bau. Folk remedies are useless in this case.

Sometimes marigolds destroy caterpillars. They are attracted to dark green or light green foliage. If the plant blooms, the flowers will “lose” against the background of the eaten leaves. They lay their larvae on them. This is easy to understand from the twisted leaves.

ADVICE: To cure a flower from caterpillars, spray it with chemicals or pollinate it with ashes.

Whitefly - a pest that affects marigolds that grow in greenhouses or greenhouses. The reason is dry air. If they grow in open ground, then the reason is different - heat.

Who would have thought that there would be so much harm from a small white butterfly with a body length of 2 mm. She will suck the juice from the leaves. If she lays larvae, the secretions will form a sooty fungus on the leaves, causing them to turn black and fall off. In case of severe whitefly damage, it is recommended to buy and use Aktara according to the instructions.

Preventive control measures

Experienced flower growers say that marigolds are a plant that is rarely affected by pests. They are “active” only if it rains or the air in the room is too dry.

So that slugs and snails, caterpillars and thrips do not harm them, it is important to place containers with bleach on the windowsill or in the greenhouse in a timely manner. Bleach has a pungent smell that repels pests. If, for preventive purposes, cultures are treated with infusion of onion peel, then the spider mite is not terrible for them.

Conclusion

Not only experienced flower growers grow. They are a favorite culture for beginners in gardening. They want to decorate their balcony or garden with them. Their choice is clear: the culture is unpretentious, drought-resistant and not demanding on the soil. The only thing you have to take preventive measures so that they do not become a victim of thrips, caterpillars and slugs.

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Sometimes in a flower bed you can see a flower with yellowed, deformed shoots, on yellow coating there may be black dots, and dots rapidly increase in size. The buds and flowers of such marigolds are not beautiful, underdeveloped, there are no seeds. The culprit for this is a viral disease, unfortunately, flowers cannot be helped. A diseased plant must be dug up with a root, taken from a flower bed and burned.

What are dangerous insect pests and how to deal with them

Insect pests are no less a threat to flowers, the most dangerous among them: spider mites, greenhouse whiteflies, slugs, snails, thrips, caterpillars, aphids.

spider mite. The insect appears most often on young marigolds - on seedlings growing at home or in a greenhouse, the main reason for its appearance is dry air. in dry and hot weather it can also be found on older stems. Ticks eat leaves, they first turn white, then dry, and a raid on them is proof that an insect was sitting there.

The tick does not like high humidity, therefore, the more often you spray the flowers with plain water, the more likely it is that the pest will not destroy them. They do this both indoors where seedlings grow and on the street.

A spray of water from a hose, the smell of tansy and nearby petunia will protect the flowers and prolong their flowering period. Spraying with water-diluted infusion of tobacco with crushed laundry soap helps.

Slugs and snails. A great danger to flowers, especially in rainy summers, are slugs and snails. The slug eats large leaves so hard that holes appear in them, sometimes the pest eats the fleshy stem from below. It is difficult to see this, since he eats at night, he is given out by traces - shiny stripes that are clearly visible in the morning. Per a short time slugs can destroy many beautiful flowers.

Planks, pieces of thick fabric, cut potatoes or apples will help preserve flowers, slugs will try to get comfortable under these little things. Stock up on friction, slugs are not the most charming creatures on the planet, but by periodically collecting them, you will be calm for your health and decorative look your marigolds.

You can try to sprinkle the bush and the ground under it with ash, or sprinkle it with a solution of mustard, the slugs do not tolerate its smell. The most reliable way to get rid of intruders is to collect pests and put slugs in a jar.

thrips. Buds of Chernobrivtsy, or rather their juice - that's what thrips love. The little insect does not eat the leaves, it is only interested in the bud. Thrips are so small that it is very difficult to see them, but the holes in the petals eloquently indicate their presence. The bud on which the thrips settled will first rot, then dry up and fall off without opening. A plant that an insect eats will not please with its flowering, although there is an opinion that they bypass the place where marigolds grow.

Aphid. Aphids are very insidious, they eat quickly, and in a short time they can spoil the foliage by drinking the juice from both it and the buds. This will be followed by wilting and death of flowers. Large colonies of aphids literally sprinkle stems, shoots, leaves and buds. Aphids are very dangerous, you need to fight it with the help of chemicals, but sometimes a strong jet of water from a hose is enough, although the likelihood that it will return is very high. Chemical preparations should be used according to the instructions, the treatment should be repeated after ten days, and, for the purpose of prevention, after rain.

caterpillars. Not only ticks, aphids, thrips and slugs love marigolds, they are also destroyed by caterpillars. If the caterpillars gnawed the leaves, the flowers will no longer look beautiful. Sometimes the leaves are twisted, which means that the caterpillars wrapped the larvae in them. You can destroy them with the help of chemicals or by sprinkling flowers with ashes, but the first method is still more reliable.

Marigolds are defenders

Despite the problems described above, in most cases, pests bypass marigolds. Only improper care leads to the fact that the flowers have to be saved.

If the disease is detected in a timely manner or pests are detected, the flowers can be saved. Therefore, when caring, inspect the marigolds, surround them with attention and care, and then they will grow up healthy and strong. The sooner you start fighting pests, destroying caterpillars, doing everything so that aphids and slugs leave your flower bed, the more likely you are to save your marigolds.

These flowers are reliable protection for flower beds and gardens. Cabbage, phloxes, roses and many other plants in the neighborhood of Chernobrivtsy will grow healthy and beautiful, as the aroma of marigolds will scare away unexpected guests. The proud lily will be saved from the lily beetle, gladioli from nematodes and thrips, and flowering plants sprayed with marigold infusion will be saved from bedbugs and fleas.

Rose pests

With the optimal location of the rose garden and proper care, healthy, powerful rose bushes become more resistant to pests, but no plants are immune from these uninvited guests of the garden. Unfavorable weather conditions contribute to the rapid spread and reproduction of plant pests.

It is difficult to notice the first single pests on plants, therefore It is important to regularly inspect roses to take urgent measures for their timely detection and destruction.

It is necessary to attract and protect the natural enemies of insect pests in the garden. These are birds and numerous garden inhabitants - lacewings, ladybugs, centipedes, spiders, hoverflies, lizards, frogs, toads and other useful creatures that destroy plant pests and keep the garden healthy.

To attract natural pest control helpers, plant a variety of flowers and fragrant herbs in the garden; a garden pond will also attract and delight useful garden dwellers.

Birds help a lot in the fight against various plant pests, so I recommend placing a birdhouse near the rose garden. It is useful to plant plants in the garden whose seeds are loved by birds, as well as to feed the birds in the garden in winter.

Single pests seen on roses are often easy to collect by hand. Gardeners practice spraying pest-affected plants with environmentally friendly preparations made from plant protectors.

Use chemicals as a pest control method only when absolutely necessary., since when plants are treated with chemicals, useful garden creatures are destroyed, the soil and human health are harmed.

Let's talk about plant pests that are most common on roses, as well as measures to combat them.

Thrips - the smallest and thin, very mobile insects with an elongated body, hibernating in the soil and on plant debris. Under the microscope, these insects have fringes on the wings and vesicle-shaped suckers on the legs, which is why thrips are also called vesicles.

Thrips lay their eggs in plant leaves. Feeding, thrips pierce plant tissue and suck out the juice. In places of their injections, points are formed that merge with each other.

Symptoms: Discolored silvery streaks and spots appear on the leaves and petals of roses from thrips, often blackening at the edges. The buds of roses affected by thrips do not bloom well, the leaves are deformed and dry out, the buds wither, the blooming flowers lose their decorative effect.

Dry and hot weather contributes to the strong reproduction and spread of thrips.

Control measures: all plant parts affected by thrips are removed and destroyed. In autumn, plant residues are collected and burned around the bushes, and the soil is dug up.

Rose sawflies (warty, ascending, comb, descending, slimy) - relatively large winged insects whose larvae and pupae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes.

Symptoms: individual shoots of roses droop, the leaves on the shoots affected by the sawfly dry up, the shoots break and die.

In spring, sawflies lay their eggs under the skin of leaves or young shoots, in the veins or in the axils of the leaves. Large whitish larvae (about 15 mm long) emerge from the eggs, which eat the pulp of the leaf, penetrate the shoot and move down (descending) or up (ascending sawfly).

Rose drillers harm roses in the same way as sawflies, laying eggs at the ends of young shoots of roses. The hatching larvae bite into the shoot, the damaged part of which dies.

Rosan narrow-bodied borers- beetles that appear on roses in late spring. They eat small holes in the leaves, lay eggs on the bark of the shoots. The larvae of the borer penetrate the shoot and move under the bark along the rose shoot, gnawing through intersecting passages in it. The presence of borer larvae inside the shoots is evidenced by their darkening. The pupae of the borer also hibernate inside the shoots.

Control measures: shoots of roses affected by sawflies, borers and borers are cut to healthy tissue and burned; it is advisable to do this before the pests start to emerge from the shoots. The found larvae are destroyed. Throughout the season, periodically loosen the soil around the bushes. In the rose garden, dry fallen leaves are carefully collected, the dry parts of the shoots are cut off, plant remains of roses are burned, and the soil is dug up in autumn.

Rose leafhoppers- quite well-marked insect pests (up to 4 mm in length), laying eggs on the bark of the shoots. Adult leafhoppers and their larvae eat away the pulp and suck the juice from rose leaves. AT middle lane leafhoppers give two generations - at the beginning and at the end of summer. Wintering of leafhoppers takes place on the bark of rose shoots.

Leafhoppers are often found on roses growing in a dry and warm place. These greenish-yellow insects usually sit on the underside of the leaf along the veins, sucking out cell sap. When disturbed, leafhoppers jump to the ground or take off.

Symptoms: when leafhoppers appear in the rose garden, white spots and specks appear on the upper side of the rose leaves. The leaves dry up and fall off prematurely.

Control measures: with a massive invasion of leafhoppers, rose leaves are thoroughly sprayed from all sides with an insecticide (for example, a solution of kinmiks - 2.5 g per 10 liters of water).

Rose leaf rolls- small nondescript butterflies flying at dusk or at night. Leafworms overwinter in the bark of trunks or branches of fruit trees.
Symptoms: individual rose leaves curl up and die.

Butterflies-leafworms lay their eggs on the edges of the leaves. Whitish or light green caterpillar larvae emerge from the eggs; at the end of July they reach a length of about 9 mm. Caterpillars of leafworms gnaw out cavities in the kidneys, eat leaves and rosebuds; they entangle the leaves with cobwebs, folding them into a tube.

Control measures: with a weak defeat, individual infected leaves and buds are cut off and destroyed. In case of severe damage, the plants are sprayed with pyrethrin-containing preparations (including the underside of the leaves).

Rosanna and Thick-walled nutcrackers- small (about 4 mm) winged insects that lay their eggs in the leaves and shoots of roses in May-June.

Symptoms: in the feeding places of hatched larvae, multi-chamber gall growths (5-50 mm in diameter) with dense long hairs are formed, where the larvae hibernate and pupate.

Control measures: pruning and burning of noticed galls until new pests fly out of them in the spring.

rose aphid It sucks juices from leaves, petioles, pedicels, buds, young shoots and can infect roses with more than 10 viruses; winters on the bark of rose shoots.

Symptoms: the buds, leaves, tips of the stems of roses, if there are aphids on them, are deformed, shoots and flowers stop developing due to a lack of nutritious juices.

The appearance and active reproduction of aphids is facilitated by dry weather, an excess of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Control measures: plants in the rose garden should be provided with an influx fresh air, observe the dosage of nitrogen-containing top dressing of roses. Upon detection a small amount aphids destroy it with your hands; Aphids are easy to crush with your fingers.

Rose bushes heavily affected by aphids can be sprayed with soapy water (100-200 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of water), nettle infusion or other the right drug from protective plants.

On my roses, all the aphids are collected by numerous sparrows, which I feed in the garden in winter. Birds live under our roof; there are many sparrow families.

Bed bugs (field) and their larvae, like aphids, are carriers viral diseases. They suck the juice from the leaves, buds and flowers of roses. The bugs lay their eggs in the petioles and veins of the leaves; overwinter in plant debris and weeds.

Symptoms: the leaves and tops of the shoots of roses turn yellow and dry out, the flowers and buds become stained and fall off.

Control measures: cleaning the garden from weeds and plant residues; spraying with preparations from plant protectors or insecticides with a large number of pests.

Spider mites- microscopic and barely visible to the naked eye, but very harmful arthropods that suck juice from leaves and young shoots. Ticks hibernate in the bark of shoots and branches of garden plants, in the crevices of greenhouses, in fallen leaves, in weeds.

Symptoms: The surface of rose leaves affected by mites is covered with yellow speckles, which then turn brown. On the underside of the leaves affected by mites, the thinnest web is visible, inside which the mites lay their eggs.

Control measures: spider mites actively develop in dry and hot air, at high temperatures. Protect predatory mites that destroy spider mites. Treat roses affected by spider mites with a decoction of horsetail, sulfur-tar emulsion, and acaricides.

Shields - mobile in the stage of microscopic larvae, and as they grow and develop, they become immobile (in the adult state) insects. Adult scale insects have reliable protection from external influences in the form of small waxy “shield scales”.

Symptoms: scale insects are firmly fixed on the leaves and shoots of roses, sucking the juice out of them. The first sign of the appearance of scale insects is their shiny sticky discharge like syrup splashes. A sooty fungus that looks like a black plaque settles on these secretions. The development of a plant affected by scale insects slows down; with a mass infection, the rose may die.

Most often, scale insects appear on weakened roses that grow with insufficient care, in very dry or wet areas.

Control measures: you should carefully choose a place for planting roses and protect the natural enemies of the scale insects. Single scale insects found on a rose are cleaned with a brush, stick or soapy cloth. I spray accumulations of pests with paraffin or mineral oil, which covers the scale insects with a film, so that the pests have nothing to breathe. An extreme means of combating scale insects is the use of insecticides.

leaf cutter bees, feeding on the nectar of flowers, cut out small regular semicircles along the edges of the leaves of roses, thereby not causing noticeable harm to the plants. Weeding in the garden is recommended for thistle, thistle and other composite weeds, in the stems of which the leaf-cutter bee makes a home.

The greatest harm to the flowering of roses causes kidney mosquito, whose caterpillars eat the top of the shoot, that is, the flower bud is still in the bud. I have never seen the pest itself, only its traces - a web. If you don’t fight the mosquito caterpillars, then instead of beautifully flowering rose bushes you will get only greenery, since the caterpillars will eat all the flowers in the very bud. But this pest does not always affect roses, mainly during hot April and May.

In early May, I will definitely spray roses for the first time from leaf-eating beetles And caterpillars in cloudy calm weather or in the evening (protecting fruit plants and soil growing nearby with plastic wrap). During the season, I treat roses from pests as needed.

Stefan Fedorovich Nedyalkov (Belarus)
[email protected] by

All about rose on the Gardenia website. en

Most likely, your lilies were damaged by a fireman beetle (as it is popularly called because it is orange-red in color), but in general it is called a lily rattle. This beetle is the first destroyer of lilies, it and its larvae eat leaves and buds, and the larvae are much more voracious than adult beetles, because they eat around the clock.
Female firefighters lay their eggs on the underside of the leaf, and the larvae hatching are located there, so they are not visible from above.
The larvae are covered in toxic brown slime from their excrement, which is why birds do not eat them. If the beetle is not destroyed in time, it will gobble up all the leaves and buds of lilies, as a result of which the bulbs will not grow and may not bloom next year.
To destroy this pest, the same drugs are used as against the Colorado potato beetle. Sprayed during flowering.

Hosta plant growing in the garden Types of hosta

hosta – perennial with spectacular leaves, very unpretentious. In the genus Hosta, or as it is also called Funkia, there are approximately 40 plant species. In the garden, hostas are used mainly for decorative foliage - creating a successful green background for soloist plants. But the flowers of the hosta are quite cute and quite decorative.

hosta leaves various kinds and varieties differ in size, shape and color (all shades of green, as well as blue, yellow, variegated and bordered). The leaves grow from the root rosette quite densely, forming a dense herbaceous bush - thanks to this, the plant looks elegant, and even majestic.

Flowers at the host are located on high peduncles - in some species up to 1 meter tall. The inflorescences are loose, consisting of small bell-shaped flowers, usually white, pink or purple.

Types and varieties of hosts

We present you a comparative table of the main types of garden hosta.

species name				flowering time
Hosta curly	60 cm	The leaves are broad, dark green, ovate, bordered by a white stripe of about 20 cm.	Lilac flowers	End of spring - beginning of summer
hosta high	60-90 cm.	Large dark green leaves with a glossy surface, elliptical shape	Flowers light lilac	June July
Hosta Fortune	45-50 cm.	Leaves are heart-shaped, green with a cream border.	Lilac flowers	June
Hosta Siebold	60 cm	Gray heart-shaped leaves about 30 cm long, with noticeable veins	Flowers white, purple or lilac, sometimes spotted	July August
Hosta wavy	60-75 cm.	Oblong oval leaves 20 cm long and 12 cm wide, with a wavy edge, very beautiful color - white middle and green frame, like watercolor strokes	light purple flowers	July August
Hosta swollen	30-50 cm.	Heart-shaped leaves with a pointed tip	blue flowers	End of spring - beginning of summer
Hosta plantain	40-50 cm.	Leaves ovate-rounded, bright green, shiny	Large fragrant white flowers	July August

Let's also list the most interesting varieties of hosts and their features.

Royal Standard psyllium hosta is suitable for very strong shade.

Albopicta Hosta Fortuna has cream-colored leaves with a green border.

Siebold Hosta Elegans is a plant with bluish leaves, very large and white flowers with a purple tint.

The variety Thomas Hogg hosta swollen is distinguished by green leaves with a white border.

Curly Hosta (Hosta crispula)	Hosta Fortune (Hosta fortunei)	Hosta Siebold (Hosta sieboldiana)
Hosta wavy (Hosta undulata)	Swollen hosta (Hosta ventricosa)	Hosta high (Hosta elata)

If you want to see more images of the hosts, then Photo hosts presented on a separate page.

Place and soil for hosta

Hosta prefers moist, slightly acidic soils rich in humus, in semi-shady places. But even in open places, the host feels pretty good - if you take care of regular watering.

Boarding Information

Before planting the hosta, add compost or peat to the soil. Plants are planted after 30-60 centimeters, depending on the growth of an adult plant. After planting, the ground around the plant can be mulched.

The main flowering occurs in July-August.

Growing hostas

Growing hostas is extremely easy. The main thing is to choose the variety that is most suitable for the conditions and composition.

You can place these versatile plants in any corner of the garden - both in borders and flower beds, and in the form of tapeworms to decorate lawns and lawns, and hostas also feel good on wet soils near a pond. Due to vitality and rapid growth hostas successfully restrain the onset of weeds - which is why they are so successfully used as ground cover plants.

For supporting appearance yellowed leaves should be regularly removed, thereby updating the outlet.

Hostas are winter-hardy.

Diseases and pests hostas

The most common problems when growing hosta are - gray rot vegetables (Botrys cinerea) and sclerotinia (Sclerotinia).

From gray rot, the leaves begin to rot, they fight this disease with folpet-based fungicides. Sclerotinia is a fungal disease, a white cotton mold that causes rot and death of the root neck - dichloran is used to fight.

Hosta leaves are one of the favorite treats of snails and slugs. These pests are harvested by hand or by making special traps for them.

Hosta breeding

Hostas are propagated by spring division of bushes.

Seeds at the host are poorly tied; in ordinary growing conditions, it is impossible to get seeds if you only take care to buy them. Hosta seeds are sown at the end of winter for seedlings. Reproduction by seeds is possible only for varieties with green leaves - variegation is transmitted to daughter plants only when propagated by division.

O. KASHTANOVA, entomologist of the State Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

It is well known that flowers improve the microclimate, create a certain comfort and unique atmosphere. For many growing ornamental plants has become one of the types of creative recreation that delivers aesthetic pleasure. However, plants are only pleasing if they are healthy and well developed. Unfortunately, along with indoor flowers on the windowsills, many insect pests find their place. Plants, especially weakened by improper care, become their tasty food. And pests breed in the autumn-winter time with the dry, warm air of our apartments at an unheard of speed.

Large, showy flowers of miltonia (plants from the orchid family) resemble pansies. Flowers that are provided with the necessary care do not get sick and delight with their flowering in rooms from August to November.

False shields on a palm leaf.

Scale insects on a palm leaf.

It looks like a whitish cotton-like coating of a mealybug.

Whiteflies that settled on the underside of the leaf.

Springtails close-up.

Balsam, ruined by a spider mite.

A cactus affected by a root scale insect.

Entomologists divide all pests into two groups: gnawing and sucking. Gnawing eat flowers, leaves. The suckers feed on them cell sap without damaging tissue integrity.

Most houseplants are plagued by sucking pests. It is very difficult to notice these pests in time. They are so small that they can sometimes only be seen under a microscope. Obvious symptoms of plant damage are detected only when the pests have already caused damage, have managed to multiply and move on to other flowers.

Unpleasant surprises

What are the reasons for the appearance and spread of pests in indoor conditions? Often they are brought along with plants. When purchasing your favorite flowers, you must carefully check whether they are a source of infection.

You can bring pests with cut flowers. Beautiful bouquets and compositions sometimes hide such unpleasant "surprises" as aphids, thrips, whiteflies, spider mites.

In spring and summer, indoor flowers are taken out to balconies, in loggias, and taken to summer cottages. There they may well become infected, and in the fall, pests, along with flowers, “move” to “winter apartments”.

Soil taken from open ground. It sometimes contains resting stages of insects (pupa), earthworms, and nematodes.

In the spring, seedlings purchased for the summer season can also pose a threat. Since the bulk of pests reproduce at an incredible rate, even a few insects not noticed in time pose a real threat to all your plants.

Who is who

The most common pests of flower and ornamental plants are aphids, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects, scale insects, false scale insects, spider mites, and podura. All of them can reproduce in room conditions. all year round.

Aphids are small insects (1-5 mm) of green, light yellow and black colors. They suck the juice from the tops of the shoots, petioles, young leaves, flowers. The affected parts of the plants become sticky, sometimes deformed, the tops of the shoots and flowers wither.

In the rooms there are peach, room and nymph aphids. They affect a wide range of plants, preferring tender, non-leathery leaves. Usually aphids accumulate on young apical shoots and peduncles. On the sticky, sweet secretions of aphids ("honey" dew), a sooty fungus settles. But it can be found on indoor flowers and when plants are damaged by a whitefly, more often a greenhouse.

The whitefly is a small insect (1-2 mm) resembling a butterfly with milky white wings. By sucking the juice from plant tissues, the pest greatly weakens them.

Butterflies can be seen from the back of the leaves; when the plants are shaken, they quickly scatter. Of all indoor flowers, whiteflies prefer pomegranate, myrtle, pelargonium, fuchsia, aphelandra, poinsettia.

Another pest of indoor flowers is thrips, very small, extremely mobile insects (1-1.5 mm), from light yellow to black in color. They live on the underside of leaves and are barely visible to the naked eye. True signs that the plant is inhabited by thrips are the appearance on the upper side of the leaves of numerous light dots and strokes, and on the lower side - transparent "mica windows" filled with black dots of excrement. Both adults and larvae are harmful. In addition to leaves, they damage buds and flowers. Plants quickly weaken and completely lose their decorative effect.

Danger for indoor plants represent scale insects, false scale insects and worms.

The fight against scale insects and false scale insects is very difficult; as a rule, their appearance is detected only then; when the larvae are already sitting "safe" under the shields. Young larvae, quite mobile, cannot be seen with the naked eye. The scutes of the scale insects themselves are light gray, yellowish-white, they are rather flat in shape, while in the false scale insects they are brownish, more often semicircular. Female worms, unlike scale insects and false scale insects, are covered with a white powdery coating.

Scale insects and false scale insects settle on stems, twigs, leaves, usually on the reverse side along the conductive veins. With mass reproduction, pests sit closely on the plant. The worms often hide in the axils of the leaves. As a result of damage by these pests, leaves, fruits fall off, plants gradually dry out, and a soot fungus settles on sugary secretions. The range of plants affected by them is very wide - these are cactus, citrus, oleander, palm trees, ficuses, ivy, orchids, ferns. There are worms that damage the roots - root bugs. They often suffer from cacti, bromeliads. Colonies of such mealybugs are clearly visible on the roots, if you carefully knock out a dry lump of soil from the pot.

AT top layer soil when watering indoor flowers, you can sometimes notice small (1-2 mm) jumping, wingless arachnids of white color. These are podura, or springtails, most often they appear when the soil is excessively moist. White podura damages germinated seeds, seedlings, small roots, lower parts of stems. Getting rid of it is quite simple - you need to sprinkle the surface of the soil in a pot with sand and reduce the watering of the plants.

A serious threat to houseplants is posed by spider mites - very small arachnids (up to 0.5 mm) that multiply rapidly, especially at high air temperatures and low humidity. They live, as a rule, on the underside of the leaves, feed on the cell sap of plants, causing metabolic disorders, exhaustion and a decrease in assimilation. With a strong defeat by these pests, discoloration (a symptom of marbling), browning and drying of the leaves are observed, which quickly fall off, and the whole plant is entwined with an abundant thin cobweb. Many plants are affected by spider mites: ficuses, cordelins, crotons, jasmine, anthuriums, arrowroot, akalifa, citrus fruits. Common spider mites, Atlantic spider mites, and red citrus mites are most common in rooms.

In addition to the listed pests, indoor plants can be damaged by slugs, wood lice and some insects that, as a rule, fall from the open ground: weevils, scoops, mining flies.

How to protect indoor flowers from pests

First of all, with the help of preventive, preventive measures, such as: careful examination of existing and newly acquired plants, isolation of damaged flowers from healthy ones, disinfection of dishes and soil, that is, its freezing or heating. Regular, timely watering, adherence to a rational diet and lighting significantly increase the resistance of flower and ornamental plants to pests.

But even the best care does not guarantee unconditional protection of indoor flowers from pests. If there are few pests on the plants, collect them all by hand or wash them off with a strong stream of warm water from the shower. Just don't forget about the back side of the leaves. To prevent the flower from falling out of the pot, place it in a plastic bag and tie it tightly. Pouring water against spider mites is quite effective. If you repeat this procedure two or three times a week, the number of ticks will decrease dramatically. Aphids, scale insects, false scale insects and mealybugs try to clean off with a toothbrush or a hard brush dipped in soapy water (one part laundry soap to six parts water). If other sucking pests are found, thoroughly wash the plants with ethyl alcohol or denatured alcohol, but with a soft brush. To avoid burns, rinse the flowers thoroughly in the shower 3-5 minutes after such treatment.

Herbal preparations with insecticidal and acaricidal effects are widely used at home. Against aphids, thrips, mites, scale insects, false scale insects, infusions of garlic, onion, red hot pepper, and tobacco dust are used.

You can't expect miracles from home remedies, but it's worth a try.

Once again, I would like to remind you that pest control in indoor conditions requires a lot of patience. One-time processing or manual collection is usually not enough. You have to repeat them at intervals of 5-10 days.

Treating diseased plants with chemicals indoors is not recommended as there is not a single pesticide approved for home use and if you are even a little health conscious you should not use them indoors. And only with a large number of spider mites, aphids, thrips, try using fitoverm (see "Science and Life" No. 7, 1998).

In industrial conditions, chemical, biological and biotechnical methods are used to reduce the number of pests. The choice of chemicals is quite extensive, the spectrum of their action - from selective to wide. So, Actellik, Pegasus, Rogor are successfully used to combat sucking pests. New generation drugs are effective - pyrethroids, such as cypermethrin, talstar, arrivo, fury. Of the biological methods, microbiological preparations (bacterial, fungal) are used: mycoafidin (from aphids), verticillin (from whiteflies). special group represent bioagents, that is, the insects themselves and mites that destroy pests. Encarsia is successfully used against whiteflies, lacewing, aphidius, lysiflebus are used against aphids; scale insects, false scale insects and mealybugs infect cryptolemus, encirtus, and spider mites and thrips - predatory mites phytoseiulus and amblyseius. To reduce the number of pests in flower farms, biotechnical means - glue traps - are successfully used.

WHY PLANTS ARE SICK

Oddly enough, but indoor flowers sometimes get sick, not because they have been forgotten, but because they are treated too well:

Watered, but too often, and cold and hard unboiled water leaving drops of water on the leaves when watering.

They remove wilted leaves and flowers, but often pick them off by hand rather than cut them off with a clean, sharp knife or razor. And, of course, cuts are not sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Transplanted, but often in cramped dishes.

They are fed regularly, but "by eye", moreover, with fertilizers without trace elements, and both an excess and a lack of nutrients are equally harmful for flowers.

Keep all year round at the same room temperature, meanwhile, many plants need a dormant period. At this time, indoor flowers should stand in a cool place and receive very little water.

When admiring your green pets, pay attention to reverse side leaves, where pests most often settle.

RECIPES FOR HOME REMEDIES

20 g dry husk onion pour 1 liter of water (preferably warm) and infuse for 12-15 hours, filter and spray the plants three times, with an interval of 5 days.

One teaspoon of onion gruel is infused for a day in one glass of water. Filter and twice, with an interval of 3-5 days, spray the plants.

70 g of crushed garlic pour 1 liter of boiling water and cover tightly. After 6 hours, filter and use to treat plants.

100 g of crushed raw or 50 g of dry fruits of hot peppers are boiled in 1 liter of water for 1 hour in a closed enameled bowl. For two days they insist, wipe, wring out and filter. The resulting concentrate is diluted with seven times the amount of water.

40 g of tobacco waste are infused for two days in 1 liter of water, then boiled for 2 hours, filtered and diluted with 1 liter of water.

Soap solution is added to the prepared infusions for better stickiness. Laundry soap is diluted in a small amount of water and poured immediately before use at the rate of 3-4 g per 1 liter of infusion.