Why didn't the hazel grouse bloom? Why does the imperial hazel grouse not bloom? Optimum temperature for imperial hazel grouse flower
Here's the problem: I bought milk, put it in the refrigerator, forgot, remembered a week later, decided to fry the pancakes, since they were sour, I took it out - and the milk was not sour, but bitter, smelly and kind of black, eww!
Or I bought milk for yogurt, so that it’s thick, tender, sour, like in childhood. I put the bottle in a warm place, nothing happens for a day, nothing happens for two days, and on the third day, instead of curdled milk, there is a bitter, stinking slurry, and it even turns black. Ewww again!
“What do they add to this milk, I suppose there’s no milk in it at all! Previously/in childhood/in the village/under the Union (choose the one you need) this didn’t happen!” - an indignant cry from an upset customer is heard.
Actually, it was. And before, and in the village, and during the Union, and always. Let's figure it out.
Who lives in milk?
The normal microflora of milk is extremely diverse. Includes lactic acid bacteria, butyric acid bacteria, yeast, and much more. All transformations of milk depend on who from this zoo will reproduce and suppress the development of the rest. Under normal conditions, lactic acid bacteria are the strongest, they gradually destroy all (well, almost) other microorganisms, and the usual yogurt is obtained. But as often in life, it happens that it is not the strongest who wins, but the most persistent...
Why does milk go rancid in the refrigerator?
In a regular refrigerator it is about 5C. At this temperature, the lactic acid bacteria needed for curdled milk do not die, but they do not develop either, they simply sleep. But butyric acid and putrefactive bacteria, for example, feel good. In a few days, without meeting the resistance of sleeping lactic acids, they completely take over the world, that is, milk, and here it is - phew!
Why does milk go rancid when warm?
Lactic acid bacteria, the “curd milk makers,” develop at a temperature of 10-40C, preferably 30-35C. But under one condition: if they are present in milk in sufficient quantity. Pasteurization of milk, as we know, is heating to a temperature of 64-74C (or sharp cooling to 1-2C). With such heating, almost all pathogenic flora dies, and the milk becomes safe. But lactic acid bacteria don’t like this temperature either! But persistent yeast and butyric acid bacteria are completely calm about any pasteurization. And so, again, in the absence of their worst enemies, lactic acid streptococci, the milk is freely captured by the flora, turning it into a bitter, stinking fuuuuuuu!
What's a yogurt lover to do?
1) do not put milk in the refrigerator;
2) if the milk is pasteurized, add lactic acid bacteria to it (a spoonful of self-fermented sour cream, for example, or rye crust)
3) take into account that many farmers cold pasteurize milk, that is, they cool it very much after milking so that it does not become sour (as we now know, they kill lactic acid bacteria). Formally, such milk is not considered pasteurized, but without sour cream it will not sour well.
Hello, friends!
If you decide to pamper your family with really tasty, healthy dairy products, you need to learn how to choose homemade milk. I want to tell you how to distinguish milk from a sick cow from a healthy one just by smell and appearance. I gained all this knowledge from my own many years of experience with this amazing living product.
- Flavors of homemade milk
First of all, pay attention to appearance hostess and counter. Keeping a cow is a troublesome and not very clean business. If the housewife is not neat, then what kind of cow is she? So, you have chosen a hostess. It's time to choose milk.
How to evaluate homemade milk by cream
It is difficult to identify defects in fresh (morning) milk by smell. Choose a jar in which the cream has already settled. Smell the milk with the top of it settled. In the top you will hear almost all the shortcomings. If the milk has a taste or smell, the top will immediately give it all away. If you shake the settled cream, then bad smell you may not hear.To understand the smell:
1. Open the can on the counter and immediately smell the milk. Inhale deeply through your nose, hold your breath and exhale slowly through your mouth.
2. After exhaling, rub your tongue across the roof of your mouth. Taste the smell. Wait a few minutes. If there is an unpleasant taste in your mouth, refuse to purchase. Foreign odors in homemade milk in most cases indicate an animal illness.
Note!Milk from a healthy, cleanly washed cow has no foreign smell, taste or aftertaste.
Freshness of the product in appearance
You can tell how fresh the milk is by looking at the settled cream. Is it really an evening milk yield, as the hostess says, or has the jar been in the refrigerator for a couple of days already? To find out how “evening” the milk is, look carefully at the surface of the cream. It should be liquid, homogeneous, without points, clots, or compactions.The surface color of the cream should be the same as the rest of the cream. Rock the jar very carefully. If the top seems to be compacted, then the milk is more than 12 hours old. The denser the upper surface of the cream, the older the milk. Evening milk cream is practically no different in liquid from ordinary homemade milk.
When buying a product from a new owner for the first time, ask to pour the milk into your jar without shaking the top. Of course, you will lose a little fat, but if the cow was milked dirty, you will see a dark stripe on the glass in the residue flowing from the can.
Determining a defect by the taste of cream
Taste defects in milk are most easily detected in cream. In order to understand the most subtle shades, you need to swallow such an amount that when you press your tongue on the roof of your mouth, your entire tongue becomes covered with cream and flows down your throat. Now we need a little time. About five minutes. If after this time no unpleasant aftertaste appears in your mouth, you have found good milk.Cow diseases caused by inflammatory processes in the udder or metabolic disorders will certainly affect the taste and smell of milk. An unpleasant taste also appears in raw materials obtained from animals during the treatment period. High-quality milk has a pleasant, slightly sweet taste and without any aftertaste.
Flavors of homemade milk
The most delicious milk in cows in winter. Fat content and density are high. This is due to the fact that in winter the cow consumes less succulent feed and more concentrated feed. If the animal receives a complete diet, then winter period produces less milk than in summer, but more High Quality. It produces a higher yield of cheeses, increases fat content and density.Off-flavors in homemade milk may be caused by natural states cows or be evidence of disease.
For natural reasons, milk may change taste:
1. During the period of deep pregnancy. Deficiencies may appear during deep pregnancy. It may acquire a bitter, salty, or “old milk” taste. At the same time, the product’s content of dry substances, vitamins and fats even exceeds the usual values. The curd after souring is dense, there is little whey. When fresh, such homemade milk is practically indistinguishable from regular milk, but the longer it sits, the more pronounced the deficiency becomes. If you buy such milk, it must be consumed or prepared immediately, without allowing an inch to settle. When my cows are heavily pregnant I cook.
2. Spring milk. Milk changes its taste when cows go out to pasture in the spring. A sudden change in diet affects the taste and smell of milk. It becomes more pronounced, brighter, but still pleasant.
3. Eating large quantities of certain herbs: wormwood, tansy, buttercups, hare cabbage, wild garlic and onions.
Listed natural causes the appearance of foreign tastes is purely individual for each animal. I had cows that gave excellent quality milk even during deep pregnancy.
There is an opinion that if homemade milk smells like a cow, then it was not washed well. This happens, of course. But from own experience I can say that the appearance of such a taste most often indicates an animal illness.
Note!Milk from sick cows always acquires foreign odors and leaves an unpleasant aftertaste. The more intense the unpleasant taste, the more severe the stage of the disease.
The smell and taste are also influenced by the population of milk with various colonies of bacteria. A product even from a healthy animal can acquire foreign odors if sanitary standards have not been met (for more information about the defects of milk from healthy cows, see the article “Why homemade milk smells unpleasant”).
How do you know if the taste in milk is a natural characteristic of the animal, or if the cow is sick?
Quality of fermented milk by appearance
If you bought milk and want to make sure it came from a healthy cow, put the jar in the refrigerator for 12 hours to allow the top to settle. Then place it in a dark, warm (19-22 degrees) place away from heat sources, and leave it alone until it sours. Do not cover the jar with a lid. Milk must breathe. Cover with a napkin or a piece of gauze.It is by sourness that we will finally determine whether the cow is sick:
1. Mastitis (inflammation of the mammary gland).
2. Ketosis (metabolic disorder).
The conditions for souring milk are of great importance. When exposed to ultraviolet light, vitamins in milk are destroyed very quickly. The taste of milk whey that has turned sour in the sun takes on a dusty taste and goes rancid.
With rapid souring under the influence of high temperature (25 degrees and above), the milk sours quickly and turns out to be too sour, the curd does not have time to ripen.
Important! Place the can of milk away from heat sources in a dark place not exposed to sunlight, or cover it with a dark cloth.
The souring time depends on environment and the initial temperature of the milk. If it is very cold it will take longer. Milk room temperature It will go sour in a couple of days.
Why does milk take a long time to sour?
I am often asked the question: “If milk does not turn sour for a long time, is this a sign of illness or evidence that something was added to the milk?” I will answer in as much detail as possible.Average new milk at a temperature of 23 degrees it sours in 8-10 hours. If the milk is cold, it needs time to warm up. If the cow was cleanly milked and the milk was poured into sterile jars, the souring time may increase.
Milk that is taken out of the refrigerator and left to sour in a cool room can sour for up to seven days or even more! At the same time, cottage cheese from such a “ripened” curd (provided that the milk is from a healthy cow) will be more tasty and sweeter.
If sanitary standards and storage temperature conditions are not observed during milking and storage of milk, the milk can sour quickly, because souring is the proliferation of fermented milk colonies of bacteria, and the more different colonies that enter the product, the faster souring occurs.
At unsatisfactory storage temperatures, bacteria multiply faster, and therefore the souring process occurs in a shorter time.
At the same time, the product to which various chemical compounds, inhibiting or completely stopping the proliferation of bacteria may not ferment at all. The product becomes sour and unpleasant in taste, the smell is musty, rancid, and unpleasant.
Conclusion! It doesn’t really matter how long homemade milk takes to sour. The souring time depends on many factors and is not a sign of health or illness of the cow added to the raw material chemical elements. The main indicator of quality is the clot that you get in the end.
Curd in milk from healthy cows
What should be the curd and top of sour whole milk from a healthy cow?The top should be uniform yellow color, practically not separated from the main clot. If there are air bubbles in it, this is normal. Inspect the top crust of the sour top. If you see islands of flowering that are almost the same color as the rest, this is normal.
Molds that are pinkish, grayish or too yellow usually appear when there are colonies in the milk. various bacteria, fungi that get into milk due to animal diseases and violations of sanitary standards during the milking process.
Carefully remove the crust from the top. Using clean gauze, remove the remaining top film from the walls of the jar. Take a sniff. The smell will say a lot. It should be pleasant, slightly sour, without a rancid aftertaste.
The curd of milk from healthy cows is homogeneous, with a small amount with or without air bubbles. There is almost no serum. In sour milk made from high-quality milk from healthy cows, it makes up no more than one-fourth of the total volume.The serum is liquid like water. There are no signs of mucus or stringiness. The smell is sour, pleasant.
A clot in milk from sick cows
Lift the jar and inspect the bottom. A cow suffering from hemarogic mastitis (inflammation of the mammary gland with the release of pus and blood) has a reddish sediment at the bottom of the jar. Also a sign of the disease will be small dark grains, clots, flakes that differ in color (they are clearly visible at the bottom of the jar).
Evidence of an animal's disease will be if the clot jumped up, floated above the serum, or even crawled out of the jar and shriveled. The serum has separated a lot and smells unpleasant (sometimes even like vomit). The top of this milk is filled with a large number of air bubbles (carbonated). Cottage cheese from such milk turns out crumbly, hard, with a small yield of weight and bad aftertaste(often bitterly).If the whey is viscous, thick, “snotty”, the taste of the top is unpleasant, fetid, bitter - the cow is sick with ketosis (metabolic disease). Most often it develops due to an unbalanced diet.
We usually check cows for mastitis at every milking. To do this in veterinary pharmacy"Mastisan" or "Masited" product is sold. You can buy it freely and test the milk at home with a 100% guarantee.
To do this, take a sterile white plate and mix 2 cubes of milk (not cream) and 1 cube of product. Chat for about a minute. If the mixture remains liquid, the cow is healthy, if it thickens, the cow is sick. The thicker the mixture, the stronger the inflammation.
Important! Positive test A healthy cow can also show “mastied” if she calved no more than 10-15 (sometimes up to 20) days ago.
If it is not possible to buy the product, then there is a method for determining the disease called the “settling test.”
You need to take a test tube or tall dish thin glass, pour fresh milk and leave in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Carefully inspect the bottom. If the milk at the bottom has acquired a different shade (reddish, grayish) or clots, crumbs, or some other sediment appears, you bought milk from a sick cow.
I may have tired you with such a detailed story, but we want to prepare a product that is beneficial and not harmful.
Conclusion! If you have found a clean housewife and healthy homemade milk, you have taken a big step towards the abundance and variety of healthy natural dairy cuisine.
Dear friends. At our next meeting, I will tell you how to prepare delicious cottage cheese.
I sincerely hope that my knowledge will be useful and help make your life healthy and well-fed. See you.
Copyright © Natalya Ivashchenko.01 November 2015
Rockeries or rocky garden.
In order to expand your collection of bulbs in the spring, purchase planting material needed in the fall.
How to choose imperial hazel grouse bulbs
Hazel grouse bulbs have a through hole and can weigh up to 500-1000 g. To grow imperial hazel grouse, the bulbs must be absolutely healthy, i.e. without external signs rot, mold, cracks, softness and other indicators of low-quality goods. The presence of roots is acceptable. The dried residue of last year's shoot, which is located in the center of the hole, does not need to be removed.
Place and soil
To plant imperial hazel grouse, you need a warm, slightly shaded area, protected from drafts and northern winds.
The plant prefers loose, fertile and well-drained soil. Add coarse river sand and humus to the soil at the rate of 10-15 kg per 1 sq.m.
At the beginning of October, dig holes for planting imperial hazel grouse; they should be 3 times larger in size than the bulb itself. Place a layer of sand at the bottom of the hole, then a mixture of soil and manure (1:1). Plant the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse, water it and forget about it until spring. The distance between large bulbs is 25-30 cm. Planting depth is 20-30 cm. Small bulbs are deepened by 15-20 cm, and children by 8-10 cm. Plant the bulbs straight, not inclined; if the roots are long, carefully spread them out.
Cover the plantings for the winter. In spring, monitor the condition of the soil, not allowing it to dry out. When leaves appear, feed the plants every 2 weeks with phosphorus fertilizers until flowers appear. As soon as the imperial hazel grouse has finished blooming, break off the peduncle so that the plant can further direct its energy to the development of the root system and bulb.
The smell of imperial hazel grouse bulbs will drive away moles.
Digging and storing imperial hazel grouse bulbs
The imperial hazel grouse bulbs are dug up when the leaves turn yellow, in mid-June (there is no need to wait for the stem to dry completely), at the same time as the tulip bulbs. In summer, the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse and other bulbous species can easily be affected by diseases and pests, so do not delay in harvesting the plants.
Dig up the hazel grouse bulbs carefully. Remove the films from them, wash off the remaining soil if necessary, treat for 5-10 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and dry. If you hit an onion with a shovel, wash it in a solution of potassium permanganate, dry it in a dark place, cover it with ash and leave it for storage along with the rest of the onions. If there is rot on the bulbs, then scrape it out with a dull knife, treat the wound with iodine or brilliant green, dry with high temperature until a crust forms. Rot can also appear during storage, so inspect the bulbs every week and, if necessary, carry out “surgical intervention”.
Many gardeners wonder whether to dig up imperial hazel grouse bulbs every year. We can definitely say that large bulbs need to be dug up every year and after a year you can dig up small bulbs and children. The reason for digging lies in the formation of the rudiments of future inflorescences and its reproduction.
After digging up the bulbs of the imperial hazel grouse, you can replace them in their place, so the place will not be empty and for good.
Store the imperial hazel grouse bulbs in a dry, dark place so that the room temperature during the day is up to 30°C; at higher temperatures the bulbs will begin to lose moisture. Sorted and laid out in a single layer in wooden or plastic boxes. At the end of August, the bulbs form roots and a new sprout. Large specimens form 2 sprouts.
Before planting the imperial hazel grouse, it is better to trim the roots. If planting is late, then the roots should be saved and carefully spread out.
An unpretentious plant. However, if you don’t take care of it at all, then don’t expect flowering either.
In snowy winters, adult plants do not require shelter, but in winters with little snow, they need to be covered with spruce branches, straw or reeds with a layer of 25-30 cm. In spring, remove the shelter.
Loosening around the imperial hazel grouse must be done extremely carefully; it is better not to do this at all, since the roots are often located near the surface. Mulching is the best measure for the imperial hazel grouse (the soil needs aeration and moisture).
Fertilize with complex mineral fertilizers. Do not use concentrated foliar fertilizers, as this can lead to leaf burns.
Do not tie up the stems of adult plants, as they are wind-resistant.
Young shoots of hazel grouse are frost-resistant, they are not afraid of spring weather of -5°C, but they can “joke” on you, appearing frostbitten and drooping, causing you to faint. But with the first rays of the sun they are restored and make you happy.
Why doesn't the imperial hazel grouse bloom? Question from newbies
In the fall, I bought imperial hazel grouse and planted it in the garden. I read that for good flowering in summer, the bulbs need to be dug up and warmed up. How to do this correctly and how to protect hazel grouse from pests?
The temperature regime for hazel grouse is important during the dormant period, and then only for species that have large bulbs (imperial, Persian). This time begins from the moment the foliage withers until the roots begin to form (late June - July-August) and depends on the weather. If the plant is not dug up, it is important that the soil is well warmed by the sun.
The hazel grouse is not watered and the planting site is covered with dark film. To avoid the question of why large-bulbed hazel grouse do not bloom every year, we answer: it is safer to dig them up every season and warm them up for two to three weeks in the attic or veranda at a temperature of +30-35 degrees, but not under direct sun rays. According to many years of observations, hazel grouse are rarely affected by pests. Treat the bulbs immediately after digging with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dipping them in it for 5-10 minutes. Then dry.
Of course, I want to have a lot of hazel grouse. To do this, you will need to start propagating them: by seeds or vegetatively, by dividing the bulbs.
Dividing the bulbs is the easiest way to propagate the imperial hazel grouse, but we must admit that to obtain large number This kid is the slowest.
At the end of the season, the mother bulb is divided into two, which then can only be replanted and wait for flowering.
The hazel grouse produces baby hazel grouse in small quantities. It will take several years to grow it, so it is worth thinking about the need for this method of reproduction. Hazel grouse bulbs can be artificially stimulated to produce more babies. The peculiarity of hazel grouse bulbs is that on the “wound” it urgently forms a baby, so by properly wounding the bulb you can get more babies than would be the case naturally.
After harvesting the bulbs, after 2 weeks, select the strongest ones, disinfect the knife and make 2-3 cuts in the thickest part of the scales in the form of shallow holes with a diameter of 2 cm. Dry the bulbs, immerse them in clean dry sand and move them to a dry place for storage. At the end of August, after the roots have formed, replant them in the ground, having previously treated them with a fungicide (potassium permanganate solution). Remove the bud buds, so that all the strength of the plant is spent on the formation of children. Dig up the bulbs as usual in June. When digging, carefully inspect the ground; the children are so small that you may not notice them.
With the seed propagation method, you need to wait 7-8 years for flowering.
Leave 1-2 seed pods and remove the rest. Seed hazel grouse remain green when the rest are already yellow. However, this is not a reason to delay the harvesting of the bulbs. Cut the green stems with seed pods as low as possible and place them in water for 3 weeks (one container of water for one stem). Leave the water and change it every day. Next, remove the stems from the water and place them in a dry, ventilated area. One box contains about 50 seeds. Select high-quality specimens with a clearly visible embryo.
In November - early December, soak the seeds and plant them in boxes with soil, without admixtures of manure and fertilizers (box depth 15-20 cm). Leave the sown imperial hazel grouse seeds for the winter in a dark room at a temperature of 1-2°C.
In early spring and until summer, take the boxes with flower seedlings out into the open. In June, the above-ground part of the seedlings will dry out, then you will need to remove the bulbs from the soil and place them in clean sand and store them in a room with a temperature of 20°C. Plant such bulbs at the same time as adults (late September - early October), but the planting depth is only 8-10 cm. It is mandatory to cover them for wintering.