If you bought a Scotch Terrier, then you probably already know a lot about this breed from various sources, including reviews from breeders and owners directly. For example, dogs of this breed are extremely active, inquisitive and loyal. Or that they have a cheerful, cheerful character. It is these features that become the motivating motive for purchasing adhesive tape and no one else.

However, there are also some not very pleasant features that you also need to be aware of.

For example, a distinctive feature of all Scotch terriers is their excessive prudence, “thanks to” which they are terribly slow in carrying out the commands given to them. Another feature is “talkativeness,” that is, the production of all sorts of sounds that accompany many actions: yawning with an expressive howl, sleeping with snoring, groaning, an overly emotional meeting of the owner after even a short absence.

Given that these fearless, merciless dogs have been used for centuries to hunt burrowing animals such as foxes, badgers, otters and hares, they are extremely fond of digging. Therefore, be vigilant at the dacha - take care of the flower beds and beds!

However, all these so-called shortcomings are more than compensated for by sincere love for the owner, safe games with children and sensitive home security.

Grooming

If you bought a Scotch Terrier, you should be prepared for what its coat requires special care: this is washing (albeit not often), combing, cutting, trimming. When processing wool, it is necessary to emphasize the main typical signs the structure of the body of adhesive tape, as well as its character properties. The character of the Scotch Terrier is well defined by the following words: “He is always ready to go anywhere and do anything.”

The Scotch Terrier should be washed with special shampoos and conditioners for dogs; in extreme cases, use children's soft shampoos. It is recommended to brush the tape once a day. Haircut (edging grooming) is required every 6-8 weeks, starting from 5-6 months. It is enough to do trimming twice a year.

Trimming is a painless and short-lived procedure, a kind of artificial shedding that leads to fur renewal. Hair on the top of the neck, back, upper parts the sides and tail are plucked using a trimming knife (English dog handlers recommend plucking the fur with your fingers, but the use of such a technique is only possible on individual individuals and when the fur is fully mature). The fur on these parts of the body should be moderately long, always hard, completely adjacent to the body, not at all tousled, sticking out to the sides, and even more so, curly. A truly thick, coarse and long coat is one that does not bristle when the dog is lightly stroked in the direction opposite to its growth. The hair on the tail is plucked so that it acquires a well-pointed cone-shaped shape.

The Scottish Terrier's coat is processed first by plucking (trimming) and then by clipping. On the crown of the head, the hair is cut short with special scissors for grooming dogs. The hair on the cheekbones is also cut short, starting under the ears and continuing on a plane limited by a conventional line connecting the outer corners of the eyes. On the underside of the neck (throat), the hair is also cut short from the sternum up, towards the chin, to the line connecting the corners of the mouth. Wool on ears ah also cuts his hair short. Long eyebrows should be left above the eyes.

And don’t forget about the need for regular

The Scottish Terrier's coat is of a hard type, which provides it with reliable protection from possible bites during hunting and insects. The undercoat also retains heat for a long time.

Combing

Should be combed long wool at least once a week. To do this, you can use either a powder brush or a special medium-sized comb. Small tangles are removed with a tangle cutter.

Trimming

The Scottish Terrier's coarse coat on the back needs to be trimmed twice a year. Plucking of dead hairs takes place in spring and autumn. The process starts from the eyebrows and ends at the base of the tail. For trimming, a special knife with medium-sized teeth is used.

Pinching is always done before bathing. The total duration of this procedure for the Scottish Terrier is 1-2 hours. For show dogs, trimming is spread over several weeks to ensure a natural effect.

Replacing trimming with a razor leads to the destruction of coarse hair and thick undercoat, increasing the risk of hair loss. severe itching from unremoved dead hairs. It is almost impossible to restore the previous cover.

At the same time, groomers often use a razor after plucking and trim the fur as it grows to create a smooth effect. This does not harm and is only used if the terrier is not participating in a show.

Bathing

The Scottish Terrier is washed with a special shampoo for hard coats. For those with a lighter color, you can use a whitening shampoo. After completing the bath, dry the dog with a hairdryer for about 15-20 minutes.

A haircut

Haircut options depend on whether the Scottish Terrier is participating in the exhibition. Show dogs must have long hair in the shape of a “skirt”, covering powerful paws. Eyebrows, like the beard, should also remain long.

For pet haircuts, the wishes of the owner are taken into account. As a rule, hygiene is done in groin area, the “skirt” is shortened or cut off completely. Often a terrier is given a pseudo-skirt - the fur on the belly is shaved off, leaving only the sides, front and back. The beard and eyebrows are also made shorter. These haircuts make caring for your pet easier.

Claw and ear care

Nail trimming is carried out 1-2 times every 2 weeks. In some cases, claws are trimmed once a month. It is recommended to clean your ears once a week with a special lotion.

How to accustom a dog to hygiene procedures?

The first trimming of the Scottish Terrier should occur at the age of 4 months and be repeated several times. This is done so that the dog gets used to plucking and does not experience stress in the future.

Services of the pet salon “My Pet’s Style”:

Professional haircut scotch terrier

What are the features of a haircut?

Scottish Terrier or whatever it is also called Scottish Terrier is a breed of dog with a rather thick and coarse coat that requires really careful grooming.
Puppies of this breed begin to be cut at the age of two months; the purpose of such early haircuts is to accustom the puppy to this procedure. Around six months, the dog undergoes a full treatment, which includes: plucking dead hairs; clipping with a clipper the places where the hair should have a minimum length: the throat, head, side neck parts, as well as the area near anus; competent creation of an aesthetic silhouette using scissors. If the grown-up pet does not attend exhibitions, then to give a neat appearance, the Scotch Terrier’s haircut is done using scissors, clippers and a comb, resulting in a simplified look of the dog’s “hairstyle”: a short shaved head, neck and back, while the whiskers remain long. , eyebrows and beard, and in addition, a “skirt” starting approximately from the middle of the body.
  Scotch Terrier Grooming if he attends exhibitions, it will be somewhat different; a simplified version will not work here. In addition to cutting and constant combing, it is also necessary to add trimming - that is, plucking out dying, coarse hair, so that old, outdated hairs are replaced with new, hard, shiny and good-structured hairs. The main thing in trimming is to achieve a tight fit of the fur on the back along with the scruff. Grooming the Scotch Terrier should be accompanied by regular trimming, carried out approximately once every couple of months, so that after plucking there is not a lot of young hair left.
After bathing, the Scottish Terrier's coat should be dried thoroughly, since the thick undercoat usually takes quite a long time to dry. Since this dog’s coat requires daily brushing with a brush and comb, you can give your pet cute hairstyles by decorating it with hairpins, elastic bands and bows.

A little about the breed

Scottish Terriers are distinguished by their strength, strength, and muscularity. Their head is somewhat long, however, quite proportionate to the body, and their neck is very powerful. With a height at the withers of up to twenty-eight centimeters, these dogs weigh up to ten and a half kilograms. The elongated, hard coat with a soft undercoat forms mustaches, eyebrows and beards. The colors are: black, brindle and sand (wheat).
By nature, the Scottish Terrier is a cute, lively, hardy dog ​​with a decisive and rather persistent character. There is an opinion that these dogs are very proud and truly stubborn, living by their own needs and inner world. But in fact, these terriers really need the affection and love of their owners. Sometimes Scottish Terriers are even called “big dogs in a small package,” because despite their small stature, they have truly powerful teeth and necks. Representatives of this breed are very trainable, do not bark without a reason, but when the opportunity arises they will always stand up for themselves. Each Scotch Terrier has a huge reserve of strength and energy, the ability to adapt to both city life and country life. And these scotches cannot live without regular physical activity and long walks.
Unfortunately, these terriers are predisposed to many types of cancer (especially stomach cancer, blood cancer, etc.). Research shows that bitches who live to be 11 years of age are more likely to get cancer. On average, such terriers live up to thirteen years. By the way, it is extremely undesirable to feed this breed with dry food.

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From the history of the breed

The Scottish Terrier is called by many names - Scottish Terrier, Scotch Terrier, Aberdeen Terrier, Scottish Ground Terrier, and briefly and affectionately “Scotty”.
The origin of this dog breed is purely Scottish. Although there is no exact information about when and how it appeared. It is assumed that the Scotch Terrier was bred in the west of the North. Scotland and the Hebrides. Documentary evidence that reflects early development This breed has not survived. At that time dogs in Scotland were kept mainly for hunting and no special effort was made to maintain any one type. Scotty proved to be a pretty good hunter. Even now, with proper training, he will be able to lure foxes and badgers out of holes first-class, because his sense of smell never fails, due to which ancient times he was indispensable in hunting.
The ancestors of the modern Scotch Terrier were most likely very popular in Aberdeen - indeed, to this day this breed Sometimes called the Aberdeen Terrier. By the way, most of the first exhibition record holders came from this particular area of ​​Scotland.
Many lovers of the Scottish Terrier claim that this breed is the oldest of the Highland Terriers, and all other breeds have already descended from it, while they assure that the Scottie is a purebred Highland Terrier.
In the 17th century, several dogs from the former Scottish-turned-English King James I were sent to France as gifts. In Europe, Scotty has, of course, gained great popularity.
The first Scottish Terrier standard was developed in 1879, but the beginning of the modern and high-quality development of this breed was carried out by the famous breeder Ludlow. He founded a club for these terriers in England in 1883. The first champions of this breed at the end of the 19th century differed from today's Scotties in having a slightly elongated body, not very short limbs, rough short hair that lay close to the body, and a saber-shaped tail. The color was most often variegated brindle. The Scottish terriers were improved by Van Best from the Scottish city of Aberdeen, who was one of the first to seriously study the breed.
In the 1920s, the brindle color dominated the breed, and black dogs were rare; the British tried to consolidate this color. At the same time, the silhouette of this breed changed. Scotch terriers came to Russia quite a long time ago; they could be seen here back in the 30s and 40s of the last century. Before the outbreak of World War I, the Scottish Terrier was one of the most fashionable breeds in many countries.

On our website you can find out

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Grooming and trimming of the Scottish Terrier. Price: 2,500 rub. -a haircut; 3,000 rub. -haircut + trimming; 3,500 rub. -complex (haircut + trimming, washing, ears, claws, paraanal glands);

Scottish Terrier ( Scottish Terrier ) is a breed of dog bred in Scotland.
This breed of dog is used to hunt fox, badger and many burrowing animals. There are many breeds of terriers in Scotland, but this particular one received the name Scottish thanks to Captain G. Murray and S. E. Shirley, who worked on improving the breed. Directed development is carried out with early XIX century. The standard was adopted in Great Britain in 1883. The breed is distributed almost throughout the world.
A strong, strong, muscular dog. The head is long, but proportionate to the body. The neck is very powerful. The transition from forehead to muzzle is smoothed. Height at withers 25.4-28 cm, weight 8.6-10.4 kg. The eyes are small, oval, dark, widely spaced. The ears are erect and small. The chest is wide and deep. The tail is quite short, carried high, and may be slightly curved. The paws are large, designed for digging. The coat is long, hard, with a soft undercoat, forming eyebrows, mustaches and beards. Colors: black, sand (wheaten) or brindle.
The Scottish Terrier is a cute, lively, hardy dog ​​with a decisive and persistent character. Many people believe that Scottish Terriers are very proud and stubborn dogs with their own inner world and needs. However, these terriers really need the love of their owners. Scottish Terriers are often called " big dog in a small package” because, despite their small stature, they have very powerful teeth and necks. He trains very well, does not bark without a reason, although he can stand up for himself. It has a huge reserve of strength and energy and adapts well to life in the city and countryside. Wool protects well in any weather. Needs regular physical activity and long walks.
Terriers are predisposed to many cancer diseases(especially blood cancer, stomach cancer and some others). Studies have shown that cancer occurs most often in females over 11 years of age. On average, terriers live up to 13 years. To take care of your dog's health, you need to choose a diet that contains many vitamins and organic food (that is, food is not advisable). The only dog ​​that can smile when it sees a person it knows, and smile like a human.
Scotch terriers named Blob were the constant partners of the clown Pencil in the circus arena. The Scottish Terrier is also the traditional dog of the President of the United States. They belonged to Roosevelt and Bush Jr. Two Scottish Terriers were raised by Eva Braun. The puppy was Mayakovsky's favorite. The black Scotch Terrier and the white West Highland White Terrier are used as symbols of whiskey.
Origin: UK. Date of publication of the previously valid standard: 06/24/87

• General Appearance: Stocky, suitable size for burrowing dog, short-legged, alert posture, suggestive of great strength and energy in a small volume. The head gives the impression of being long for the dog's height. Very agile and active, despite short legs.
• Behavior and temperament: Loyal, devoted. Self-respecting, independent and reserved, but important and very intelligent. Bold, but by no means aggressive.
• Head: Long, in correct proportion to the height of the dog.
• Skull: The length of the almost flat skull allows it to be quite broad and yet retain a narrow appearance.
• Transition from forehead to muzzle: Subtle but distinct, just before the eyes
• Front part:
• Nose: Large; in profile, the line from the nose to the chin is inclined back.
• Muzzle: The forceps are strong, deep along the entire length. The skull and muzzle are the same length.
• Jaws and Teeth: The teeth are large with a perfect and regular scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth tightly overlap the lower ones and stand perpendicular to the jaws.
• Cheekbones: The zygomatic arches do not protrude.
• Eyes: Almond-shaped, dark brown, fairly wide apart. Set deep under the eyebrows, with a penetrating, intelligent gaze.
• Ears: Neat, fine, pointed, erect and set on top of the skull, but not too close together. Large ears with wide bases are extremely undesirable.
• Neck: Muscular and middle length.
• Last (body): The top line is straight and level.
• Back (withers to forelock): Proportionally short and very muscular.
• Loin: Muscular, strong.
• Chest: Well rounded ribs, flattened in depth and set back. Strong connection between the ribs and the back.
• Tail: Medium length, in harmony with the dog, thick at the base and tapering towards the end. Placed vertically, straight or slightly curved.
• Forequarters: The head is carried with dignity on a muscular neck of medium length, set at slanting shoulders. The chest is quite wide and descends between the front legs. Well developed sternum in front of straight, very bony forelimbs.
• Elbows: Should not be turned outward or tucked under the body.
• Pasterns: Straight.
• Hindquarters: Unusually powerful for the size of the dog. Full, wide seat.
• Hips: Deep.
• Knees: Well arched.
• Hocks: Short, strong, turning neither in nor out.
• Paws: Good size, very dense, toes well arched and well-knit, front paws slightly larger than hind paws.
• Movement: Smooth, free. The hind and forelimbs move in a straight line, with a push from the rear and evenly throughout.
• Coat: Close-lying, double coat: a short, dense and soft undercoat and a hard, dense and wiry outercoat combine to create a weather-resistant coat.
• Color: Black, fawn or brindle of any shade.
• Height and weight: at the withers 25.4-28 cm (10-11 inches); weight 8.6-10.4 kg (19-23 lbs.)
• Defects: Any deviation from the above points should be regarded as a defect or defect depending on the severity.
• Note: Males must have two apparently normal testes fully descended into the scrotum.

Now let's try to figure it out and How can you cut our Scottish Terriers? . Having more than 10 years of experience working with this breed, I believe that if your Scottish Terrier is not a show dog, that is, does not currently participate in such events, then the haircut options can be absolutely anything. Dear owners of Scotch Terriers, the dog is an addition, a part of you and your style and taste, it is simply necessary to trim the Scotch Terrier. Scottish Terrier the breed you need Scotch Terrier trimming and grooming. Her coat needs proper care, only under this condition will it look great.

Haircut and trimming of the Scottish Terrier's body:

• “Grooming, trimming according to the breed”, the hair is cut and trimmed strictly in accordance with the breed standards and the wishes of the owner.
• “Home haircut”, when all parts of the body are cut in accordance with the wishes of only the dog’s owner.
• “Hygienic haircut”, when everything is cut to “0”, you can only leave the hair on the head and where possible.

Haircut, trimming of the Scottish Terrier's muzzle:

• “Beard haircut”, the ears are cut off, the top of the head and part of the neck are cut short. We leave only a strip of beard around the perimeter of the nose. The length of the fur left varies depending on the wishes of the owner and the dog’s appearance.
• “Hygienic haircut”, all the hair on the face is cut off if it is matted or has an unsightly coat color. In this case, the ears are cut to “0”.

Grooming and trimming the Scottish Terrier's tail:

• The tail is cut short around the anus. The length of hair left on the tail varies depending on the wishes of the owner and the dog’s conformation.
• Or the tail is cut off entirely.

Haircut and trimming of Scottish Terrier paws:

• “Paw cutting according to breed”, only the pads and fur on the paws are cut to “0”, the rest of the hair on the paw is formed depending on the exterior and wishes of the dog’s owner.
• “Hygienic paw cutting”, on the paws, not only the pads and hair on them are cut to “0”, but also higher up, the so-called “socks”, up to the 5th toe (like a Poodle).

Dear Scottish Terrier owners, let's move away from the stereotypes imposed on us. You and only you choose to be an “exclusive individuality” for you and your Scottish Terrier or a “gray mass” like everyone else!

You just need to decide which master’s work you liked. We will do the rest. You don't even need to call yourself.

• You simply sign up on the website to see the master, and send the application to us.
• Or you can order a call back on the website, and we will call you back at a time convenient for you.

Well, when could we even dream that caring for our beloved DOGS and further maintaining all this DOG beauty would be so simple.
We decided to move away from the stereotypes of the past imposed on us. Now you don’t need to sign up for a beauty salon and go to a specialist whose work you sometimes don’t know and aren’t sure whether you’ll like the result. And then you will have to pay quite a small amount for the procedures at the cash register at the administrator. The result in most cases is the same:

• Either you liked the master and you would like to continue to be serviced by him, but we all know that the prices are high in a good salon, where there are good, professional and experienced masters.
• Either you didn’t like the master and you have to look for a new one...

We offer you, without leaving your home:

• Choose a suitable master for yourself by looking at his work.
• Agree on the place and time of the procedure (at your home or in the specialist’s office).
• You will get an attractive price, unlike what they can give you in any beauty salon, for high-quality, professional treatments.

We do not skimp on the quality of services, we were able to seriously reduce prices for procedures and services due to the fact that we do not rent expensive premises, All our masters receive clients in their equipped offices. Or they come to your home. A pet salon in Moscow website offers the following services: cutting a Scotch Terrier, exhibition and home haircut and Scottish Terrier trimming, dog washing, dog ear cleaning, terrier nail trimming, dog nail trimming, dog teeth cleaning, dog gland cleaning. Inexpensive dog grooming in Moscow at home or in a salon is a vital necessity for pet owners; it allows you to keep the dog’s coat clean, especially if it participates in exhibitions and needs a model haircut. Our best professional groomers do their work inexpensively (reasonable price) and with high quality. We work in Reutov, Novokosino, Kosino, Nekrasovka, Saltykovka, Balashikha, Novogireevo, Zhulebino, Lyubertsy, Shchelkovo, Kotelniki, Lytkarino, Perovo, Vykhino, Zheleznodorozhny, Ivanovskoye, Golyanovo, Izmailovo, Tekstilshchiki, Kuzminki, Maryino, Brateevo, Kapotnya.

We really value each of our clients!

If your dog is once well “made” by a specialist, then all you have to do is maintain this form always, regardless of the timing of exhibitions or the time of year.

The main decoration of the tape is the “skirt”. It should be moderately long and thick. The “skirt” and beard should be combed thoroughly; after a walk (especially in dirty weather), it is good to rinse the lower part of the “skirt”, removing sand and thorns. You can and should bathe your dog in ponds, brush your dog in the snow in winter, and in the rain in summer. A Scottish terrier with an overgrown muzzle and a “skirt” of icicles does not look at all cute. Every owner should be able to keep their pet always elegant. To maintain a beautiful “skirt”, have 2 overalls. One is made of bologna for rainy weather, the other is calico, so as not to fray the wool on thorns and grass, in the forest and park.

N
There is no once and for all established stereotype for caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat, but there are several basic grooming techniques, the results of which meet all the requirements for exhibitions and competitions.

Grooming begins with accustoming the puppy to a work table, where you need to regularly brush it with a stiff brush. This initial combing puts the coat in the condition necessary for trimming and develops the puppy's habit of the desired stance.

No two dogs grow their fur the same way. For some, it grows in 9 weeks, but usually the process takes about 14 weeks. It all depends on individual characteristics wool Gradually you will be able to determine the dates of your next haircuts throughout the year. The Scottish Terrier is a dog with a double coat. Therefore, when removing the guard hair, you will find an undercoat, usually short and fluffy. It should be partially removed a few weeks after the initial trimming. This will allow a new, durable layer of wool to grow. The undercoat is removed either with a special trimming knife or with a comb. Never remove so much undercoat that the skin is visible - only remove enough to allow new wool grow up and lie down normally.

The withers are plucked approximately 14 -16 weeks before the show.

The body is plucked 3 weeks after trimming the withers

Plucked and trimmed 3 weeks after body trimming

Haircut short before exhibition

Decorating hair growth, combed and trimmed

Places of transition from longer to shorter hair. Leveled with thinning scissors.

There are different periods of time between trimming different parts of the body. First of all, the withers are trimmed (zone “A” in the diagram). The wool here must be plucked 14-16 weeks before the show. Leave the soft undercoat until the hair begins to grow. After 3 weeks, start trimming the neck and back (zone “B” in the diagram). After another 3 weeks, proceed to section “C”. Start from the occipital protuberance. But first of all, it is important to determine the place where the dog’s eyebrows will begin.

HEAD. When trimming the hair on the head, you must remember the requirements of the standard, which states that the Scotch Terrier's head should be long, with an almost flat skull, non-protruding cheekbones and a strong, deep muzzle. In this case, the skull and muzzle should be the same length. Everything that disrupts the picture of the clean lines of the head, that is, everything protruding and sticking out in different sides the fur must be removed. The head is cut against the grain, starting from an imaginary line running from the inside of the base of the ears to an imaginary line running along the eyebrows. Care must be taken not to cut off too much hair at the base of the eyebrows at the level of the brow ridges.

a) Correctly performed hair cutting on the head, as a result of which its angular silhouette is formed;

b
) Incorrect silhouette - too much hair left in front of and between the ears; too long eyebrows, poorly trimmed eyebrows; the mustache is too fluffy, poorly trimmed, which generally violates the elongated shape of the head required by the standard;

c) Incorrect silhouette - short-cropped hair divides the head into two halves.

N
Correct treatment of hair on the head:

a) too much hair is left around the ears, eyebrows are too long, the hair on the back of the nose is not trimmed enough, the beard is not clearly separated from the throat;

b) too much fur is left around the ears, short eyebrows, mustache and beard are cut too deeply;

c) too little hair at the base of the inner edges of the ears, eyebrows and whiskers too short.

On the crown of the head, the hair is cut short with a dog clipper. The hair on the cheekbones is also cut short, starting under the ears and continuing on a plane limited by a mental line connecting the outer corners of the eyes. On the underside of the neck (throat), the hair is also cut short from the sternum up, towards the chin to the line connecting the corners of the mouth.

CHEST, THROAT, CHEEKS. Treatment of the chest, throat and cheeks must be done with a dog clipper (zone “D” in the diagram). Starting from the protrusion of the breast bone, remove the hair almost to the corners of the lips. Mentally draw a line from outer corner eyes to the base of the ear. Below this line is the cheekbone, where the coat should be shorter than anywhere else. Clip the hair with a clipper from the base of the ear to a point 1 cm away from the outer corner of the eye. Detailed treatment of these areas

h
It involves smoothing out possible sharp transitions from long to shorter hair using thinning scissors. When examining a dog from the front, its chest should look wide and square. The cheeks are cut from the base of the ears to an oblique line running from the corner of the eye (outer) to the corner of the mouth. Under lower jaw the hair is removed down to the mole, from which vibrises (thick hairs) grow.

Processing wool on the front part of the body (front view):

a) correct - the line of the shoulders smoothly transitions into the vertical lines of the limbs, formed by correctly selected hair;

b) incorrect - too much hair is left on the shoulders, the dog looks overly muscular;

V
) incorrect - converging position thoracic limbs emphasized by too much hair on the shoulders and externally on the wide-set chest limbs.

EYEBROWS, BEARD, MUSTACHE. Before shaping the eyebrows, comb them forward and look closely at the dog. Pay attention to the size, shape and color of the eyes, as well as the distance between them. If the eyes are too wide, the eyebrows should extend beyond the outer corner of the eye so that the distance between them is about 1.8 cm. The fur in the area between the eyes should be trimmed short. When shaping your eyebrows, pay attention to their length. If your dog has small, dark, mischievous eyes, then the eyebrows should not be very long. If the shape and color of the eyes are far from perfect, the eyebrows should be longer. To cut eyebrows with scissors, start from the outer corner of the eye along an oblique line to the inner corner, where the eyebrow reaches the required length. The eyebrows are separated in the middle by a “parting”, the width of which should approximately correspond to the width of the bridge of the nose. A parting that is too wide will contribute to an optical increase in the width of the frontal part of the head.

The hair on the bridge of the nose is cut very short. However, on the sides of the nose, the fur of the greatest length should be left, forming a mustache, which, together with the formed beard, should be combed in the forward direction. The strands of hair under the eyes are cut with special care to avoid causing wounds. Great care should also be taken when cutting the hair on the plane between the inner corners of the eyes, under the longest strands that form the eyebrows. When looking at the dog, a slightly pronounced but quite noticeable transition should be visible under the eyes. You shouldn't leave too much hair on your eyebrows. This coat should not stick up or to the sides, but flow smoothly forward.

It goes without saying that eyebrows, mustaches and beards need to be combed daily. In addition, if the dog was given liquid food, after each feeding, the mustache and beard should be rinsed and dried before combing.

Differences in hair density between eyebrows and previously treated cheeks and forehead should be corrected. Using thinning scissors, slightly thin out (lighten) the eyebrows in the directions indicated by the arrows in Fig. 4C.

Then they are lightly trimmed in the same directions with sharp trimming. Do not remove too much hair from the base of the eyebrows (on brow ridges). This can create the appearance of an overly prominent forehead.

Using simple scissors, cut the hair diagonally from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of the lips (Fig. 4 E). Then the edge of the cut is thinned out with thinning scissors (Fig. 4 E). If the beard is too thick, it is thinned with thinning scissors against the grain and inward (Fig. 4 F).

There is a tendency among Scotch Terrier owners to let the whiskers grow freely, the longer the better. A long mustache creates the illusion of a longer head, but a mustache that is too long can ruin the whole look. If your mustache does not keep its shape, you should trim it.

The beard and mustache should be sharply separated from the throat and cheekbones, and the eyebrows should also be separated from the short hair on the forehead and crown without any transition.

EARS. Depending on the size and position of your dog's ears, small tufts of hair at the inner corner of the ear will help give it a required type. Very few Scottish Terriers have absolutely correct form and the position of the ears, so tufts of hair at the inner corner of the ear will improve appearance, creating the illusion of smaller ears.

A
) proper processing of hair at the base of the inner boundaries of the ears;

b) improper processing of fur at the base of the ears: too much long hair is left.

The fur on the ears is cut short along the outer and inner planes of the shell, up to the longer hair on the inner surface. lower limit auricle. Here beautiful brushes are formed, which, if necessary, are cut to such a length that they have sizes and shapes proportional to the size and shape of the head. Scotch's ears should not be too large; they are set high enough, but not too close to each other. It is these requirements that should be constantly remembered when forming brushes.

The base of the ears must be cleaned of hair very carefully. There should be no tousled hair sticking out in all directions, since such hair optically increases the width of the head at the back of the head.

On the upper parts of the edges of the ears, the hair is cut very carefully with ordinary sharp scissors until sharp tips of the ears are obtained (this seems to emphasize the natural alertness of the dog). You need to be especially careful when cutting those parts external border auricle, where they meet skin folds. In these places there is a high risk of causing small but painful, and therefore extremely unwanted, injuries and wounds to the dog. A common consequence of such damage is the refusal of the dog, which had previously calmly tolerated the haircut, to refuse any procedures performed in this place.

NECK. BACK. SIDE. The fur on the upper part of the neck, back, and upper parts of the sides is plucked using a very high-quality trimming knife (English dog handlers recommend plucking the fur with your fingers, but the use of this technique is only possible on individual individuals and when the fur is fully mature). The fur on these parts of the body should be moderately long, always hard, completely adjacent to the body, not at all tousled, sticking out to the sides and, especially, curly. Really thick, coarse and long hair is one that does not bristle when the dog is lightly stroked in the direction opposite to its growth.

The neck, when viewed in a mental cross-section, should have oval shape, but by no means round. This can be achieved by leaving a thicker layer of wool on its upper part. The transition between short hair on the crown of the head to longer hair on the neck should not be abrupt or noticeable. Immediately behind the occipital protuberance, between the ears, the hair should be left somewhat longer than on the crown, due to which a smooth transition will be ensured.

However, a dog in which this hair rises in steps or even bends over the short-cropped crown looks unnatural. Optical lengthening of the head, which can only be achieved by leaving a longer coat immediately behind the occipital protuberance, is unattainable in this case. In addition, an excessive amount of hair between the ears and immediately behind them contributes to the optical shortening of the neck and deterioration of its outline.

TAIL. When trimming the tail, pluck the hair only from the top and in the direction of its growth.

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Tail hair processing:

a) correct;

b) incorrect - too much wool is left (“carrot”);

c) incorrect - too little fur is left, the tail is thin, giving the impression of being too long;

d) correction of the visual impression when “transferring” the tail.

The selected area of ​​the back of the body is trimmed with a machine.

The transition to the tail should be smooth! /blending/

The hair from the sides and bottom of the tail is removed using thinning scissors.

The tail should resemble a carrot. In order for the tail to look shorter, it is necessary to leave long hair on the rump so that it can be “draped” onto the inside of the lower part of the tail.

Also, the conical shape of the tail required by the breed standard, in the presence of minor deviations, can be given by a corrective haircut.

The fur near the anus, as well as on the planes located above and below them, is cut short with a clipper. A strip of width equal to the width of the tail is cut against the grain with a machine. You must be extremely careful when cutting this area. First of all, the transitions between the cropped and plucked planes on the croup and hips must be very carefully designed,

especially in the back. Under no circumstances should there be too much wool here. Even a small amount of excess hair noticeably lengthens the dog, albeit optically, but this is also extremely undesirable.

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APY. Carefully inspect the paw pads. Using scissors, give the paw a natural shape. The fur on the paws is cut in a circle with ordinary sharp scissors to such an extent that there is no hair left sticking out to the sides like feathers.

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Do not cut the hair on top of the fingers. When cutting the fur on the paws, you should try to emphasize the shape required by the breed standard. The paws of the pectoral limbs should have a rounded shape with rounded toes in a ball. The paws of the pelvic limbs should be somewhat smaller, but also lumpy. Therefore, it is necessary to devote Special attention wool growing between dense pads. There should not be too much of it, and therefore from time to time you should cut it off with ordinary sharp short scissors, taking great care.

If your dog has a hare's foot, make the hair on the middle toes shorter than on the outer toes. Check the length of the nails - if they are too long, trim them with a nail clipper.

FRAME. Using scissors, trim the fur that falls from the belly, leaving it long and trimming the edges slightly. Look at the dog in profile. If she is slightly higher at the loin than at the withers, remove some hair from that area.

a) The dog has straight shoulder blades and a not quite correct top line. In this case, it is advisable to trim the chest area more thoroughly, top side The neck and withers should be larger. The fur on the sides and belly should be longer, then the legs will not stand out and the dog’s body will appear shorter. To hide the straightened angles of the hind legs, the hair on the hock joint should be longer.

b
) To eliminate “straight backness” it is trimmed shorter rear end hock, and more hair is left under the tail.

Trim and comb, assessing the topline from a distance. Make sure that the hair on the shoulders blends smoothly into the hair on the neck.

When trimming the front of the forelegs, try to create the impression of a level forehand. The hair on the front legs should blend smoothly into the hair between them.

By trimming the hindquarters, create a neat, even rear. Just like on the front legs, the hair on the hind legs smoothly transitions into the hair between them.

SHOULDERS. SIDE. HIPS. Excess hair on the shoulders, elbows, hips and knees must be removed so that the remaining hair hangs smoothly straight down. When running, the fur on these parts of the body should not fly to the sides. The transition from the plucked upper part of the sides to the fur of the lower parts of the body should be smooth, almost completely invisible. Enough hair should be left on the hips so that the croup is not wider than the body at the shoulders.

There is practically no dog whose body structure does not have certain errors. By cutting the coat appropriately, you can change the appearance of a dog with minor flaws. On the contrary, an unsatisfactory haircut can greatly ruin the appearance of the dog. Finally, in some cases due to poor

haircuts may give the false impression that the dog has significant deficiencies in body structure.

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If the haircut hides some minor imperfections, this cannot in any way be considered the exhibitor’s intention to deceive the judge. An experienced judge will certainly detect these shortcomings during a thorough, detailed examination of the dog.

Hind limbs

a - a very good rear of the dog, but not at all well-groomed;

b - barrel-shaped rear legs are one of the problems of many Scotch Terriers. But you can try to hide this drawback;

c - hock joints close together. Trim the fur on the thighs more thoroughly, leaving more hair on inside knee and on the outside of the hock joint

Treatment of fur on the back of the body (side view):

a) correct;

b) incorrect - too much hair is left on the ischial tuberosities and on the freely standing limbs at the back;

c) incorrect - too much hair is left on the back of the thighs (breeches); d) incorrect - the hock joint is too emphasized.

Treatment of fur on the back of the body (rear view):

a) correct;

b) incorrect - no attempt has been made to correct the natural barreliness of the pelvic limbs through appropriate processing of the wool;

c) incorrect - the transition from short plucked wool to long wool is poorly formed;

d) incorrect - too much hair is left on the upper thighs.

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however, as a true connoisseur, he will certainly point out that the dog makes a good overall impression and overall looks great. When cutting wool before an exhibition, you need to pay special attention to those parts of the body in which minor errors are noted in the structure.

If your back is not quite straight, has a slight sag or arch, you can correct the impression with a haircut. In the first case, leaving the hair slightly longer than on the withers and croup. In the second case, the hair should be shorter than on the withers and croup.

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straightening the back line due to appropriate processing of the wool:

a) saggy

b) hunchbacked.

According to the famous English breeder W. Berry (Wybury Nursery), the most common mistakes when caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat, they consist of improper treatment of the neck, back, limbs and sides. The mistakes are that the hair on the neck and back is often plucked too short. These two disadvantages also include one more - too much hair is left in the lower parts of the ears and around them.

Of course, caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat requires certain skills and a fairly developed aesthetic sense. People who have no experience should not undertake this or at least should try to get detailed instructions from experienced groomers. The description of the process of caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat is only a very general outline, and with careful and detailed processing you need to be guided by the features inherent individual dog. It should always be remembered that the Scottish Terrier is a dog with a relatively long and narrow head and a short body, which, despite its small size, has a strong, but not coarse physique.

(Based on materials from Ivan Stukhla ‘Grooming’ scotch terrier’, Natalia Leonova’ Scotch tape. Grooming’,

N. Flerova “Grooming dogs and caring for their fur.”)