Scottish Terrier, like dogs of other wire-haired breeds, needs regular brushing and trimming twice a year - in spring and autumn. The rest of the time, the wool can be trimmed with scissors. Special care require a mustache, beard and "skirt". It is necessary to regularly comb these areas with a comb, removing dying hair; then the wool here will be constantly replaced little by little and will always be quite thick and long. Thanks to this, the dog acquires very decorative look. It is important not to leave the fur on the “skirt” and at the same time not to overdo it in combing it. After eating, the beard is wiped with a clean damp cloth and combed forward.

The length of the hair grown on the back after plucking a dog of show condition should be about 4-5 cm. Based on this, the timing of autumn and spring trimming is chosen.

The dying, mature guard hair is plucked from the occipital protuberance on the top of the neck, on the withers, along the back and lower back, on the croup and tail. Next, if possible, pluck the hair on the sides of the neck (if it is difficult to come off, then it is left for subsequent clipping), and then from the back and sides to the “skirt” line.

Then you can use the machine. The ears are trimmed so that in their lower part (and especially between the ears on the forehead) a small fringe remains, which visually reduces and shortens the ears and lengthens the head. On the forehead, from the tufts of hair between the ears to the eyebrows, the hair is cut short. The hair is removed from the outer edge of the ear to the outer corner of the eye. This stripe of cropped fur “meets” with an illogical stripe from the other eye under the throat. On the neck, up to the protrusion of the sternum - the beginning of the "skirt", the hair is removed short. On the muzzle, the hair is combed forward, the mustache and beard are trimmed so that the latter smoothly rises to the outer corners of the eyes. The eyebrows are formed along a line from the outer corner of the eye towards the nose so that the dog's gaze is visible. You can cut a small path between the eyebrows. On top, the eyebrows are drawn parallel to the forehead line. Excess hair is removed from the upper plane of the mor so that this plane is parallel to the line of the forehead.

Trim the hair in the groin and around it anus. Wool on the paws below and between the toes they are trimmed, the paws are trimmed in a circle so that the front claws are visible.

The paw line in front serves as the border of the "skirt", which, when looking at the dog in profile, should rise smoothly from the protrusion of the sternum and then drop more sharply towards the back of the thigh where the line of the leg becomes concave. Again, when viewed from the side, the “skirt” should not extend beyond the line of the neck and chest and beyond the line of the hips. The lower edge of the “skirt” is slightly trimmed with scissors so that its lowest point is in the area of ​​the front legs, and the highest is in the area where the hind legs begin.

From above, the “skirt” should be a smooth continuation of the fur on the sides of the dog. It should not stick out to the sides and puff up like a ballerina's tutu.

After the dog has grown 4-5 cm long hair on its back, a final cosmetic haircut is performed. Again, as mentioned above, the head, neck, chest, “skirt” and paws are decorated. The hair on the tail is trimmed so that it is longest at the base of the tail (a little more hair is left at the base on top to make the body look shorter and the tail look straighter). Towards the end the tail is gradually narrowed (“carrot”).

The dog is carefully combed - the mustache and beard forward, and the “skirt” down; correct transitions from short to longer hair.

A properly trained Scotch Terrier does not look like a broom, but like an elegant, robust breed dog. When preparing Scottish terriers for an exhibition, you should not make the common mistake of shaving the dog’s head bald on the eve of the ring and leaving behind everything that should be a “skirt” (along with mats and burrs).

The most common color of the Scotch Terrier is black. This allows you to cut it between trimmings more often than dogs of other breeds, but you shouldn’t overuse it here. The coat on the back should always be hard, dense, close-fitting and shiny. In damp weather, it is better to use overalls so as not to unnecessarily dirty the “skirt”, which has to be dried for quite a long time after washing.

In Fig. Figure 40 shows a Scottish Terrier trimming diagram: in unshaded areas, the coat is trimmed with scissors; in areas with sparse shading, the coat is subjected to regular trimming, and in areas with dense shading it is clipped short.

It is shown separately how the ears and tail are shaped.

Scotch Terrier Grooming

WOOL . Fits snugly. It is double and consists of a short, dense undercoat and a hard, dense and wiry outer coat that protects against foul hair.

CARE. It is required to brush regularly, at least three times a week, especially long hair on the “skirt” and borol.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

You will need: a slicker brush, a wide-tooth comb, a stripping knife, a machine, scissors.

Adviсe. Working on a Scottish Terrier is more difficult than it seems at first glance, so be prepared to spend more time.

Brush the coat with a slicker brush to remove tangles and dead hair.

Trim the fur with a No. 10 clipper from the eyebrows to the back of the head to the base of the ears, down the cheekbone, without going beyond the line “outer corner of the eye - corner of the mouth” with a brush

Using a machine, cut a narrow strip between the eyes and 4 cm on the nose.

Use scissors to shape the ears, leaving tufts of hair at the inside base of the ears.

Pluck with your hands, with a knife, file or cut the hair on the head and neck, leaving a “skirt” just above the elbow. Show dogs They don't cut it with a clipper. Don't forget that you need to work as your hair grows. If stripping, remove only dead hair with a dull stripping knife.

Next, pluck the hair on the back, including the sides, to a line running from just above the elbow to the bottom of the pelvis.

Pluck or clip the fur on top side tail to give it a neat look. brush

Carefully clip the bottom of the ponytail and around it with a clipper. anal area an Oster clipper with a No. 10 knife. Before you pick up the clipper, make sure that the dog is not exposed.

Trim the fur in the belly area with a clipper. (Discuss this with the owner first.)

Clip the hair down from the throat to the chest bone and make a smooth transition to the hair on the sides. brush

Wash your dog with a suitable shampoo; use conditioner if necessary.

Dry your dog with a hairdryer, directing the air stream in the direction of hair growth while brushing long hair massage brush or powder brush. Examine your dog's nails, ears, and teeth.

Make a smooth transition from the “skirt” to the fur of the body. Use a brush to trim the fur around the paws, giving them a neat appearance.

WOOL. There are two varieties of fox terriers: smooth-haired and wire-haired. Smooth coats do not require very much attention, but benefit from bathing and brushing with a mitten brush to remove dead hair.

The Wirehaired Terrier has a thick, coarse coat ranging from approximately 2 cm at the shoulders to 4 cm at the withers, back, sides and legs, with a short, soft undercoat. Hair on

Trim the hair between the paw pads and toes.

Comb your eyebrows and beard forward.

The back and limbs are more rigid than the sides. On the jaws they are rigid and long enough to give a powerful appearance to the muzzle. The hair on the paws is thick and coarse. The ears are well defined by careful trimming.

CARE. These graceful little dogs really look great when well trimmed.

In international standard Scottish Terrier characterized as short-legged, active and strong dog. The task of properly cutting a Scotch Terrier is to emphasize the main typical signs the body structure of this dog and even the properties of his character.

The Scottish Terrier's coat is processed by both cutting and trimming, that is, plucking.

Scotch Terrier haircut pattern

The Scotch Terrier's haircut should begin from the occipital protuberance and moves towards the brow ridges with thick eyebrows. On the crown of the head, the hair is cut quite short with special scissors. The hair on the cheekbones and throat (from the sternum up to the chin) is also cut short. This entire area can be plucked out.

If a dog is preparing for an exhibition, then this should be done approximately 14 days before the event. Above the eyes should be left thick eyebrows, dividing them with a parting. The eyebrows are also trimmed a little so that they remain long at the inner corner of the eyes (5 cm) and short at the outer corner. Long eyebrows left above the eyes should have triangular shape when viewed from above.

Also, a tuft of longer hair is left in front at the root of each ear. Beautiful brushes with sharp tips are formed on the ears. When cutting or plucking the hair on the head of the tape, you must remember the requirements of the standard. They say that the head of a dog of this breed should be long, with an almost flat skull. In this case, the muzzle and the skull must be the same length.

Anything that disturbs the clean lines of the head, such as loose hair, must be removed. On the bridge of the nose, the hair is cut very short. Only on the sides of the nose does the fur of the greatest length remain, forming a mustache. Together with the beard, they are combed forward. The hair on the back, upper neck and sides, and tail is completely plucked using a quality trimming knife 8-10 weeks before the show.

Although English dog handlers recommend plucking this fur with your fingers. However, this technique can only be used when the fur is fully mature and in individual individuals. On these parts of the body, the hair should be hard, moderately long and completely adjacent to the body, not bristling when the dog is lightly stroked against the growth of the hair.

There should be a clearly visible transition between the long hair on the neck and the short hair on the crown. Also between the ears, just behind the occipital protuberance, the hair should be slightly longer than on the crown. The hair on the tail is plucked so that it acquires a cone-shaped, well-pointed shape.

Eight weeks before the exhibition, the tail is heavily plucked, and in order for it to have good shape, the treatment is repeated approximately 14 days before the exhibition. The fur near the anus is cut short with special scissors or a clipper. At the same time, the transitions between the plucked and clipped planes on the hips and croup, especially in their rear part, must be very carefully designed.

On the hips, the hair is shortened by plucking to a line that can be mentally drawn from the groin to hip joint. Long hair is left on the chest, belly and lower sides. It should be thick, flow freely and smoothly transition into long wool at the bottom of the paws. If necessary, this area can also be trimmed, but no later than six months before the exhibition.

For long hair, you only need to comb from top to bottom to remove the dying undercoat. The fur on the paws is cut in a circle with ordinary sharp scissors so that there is no hair left on them that sticks out to the sides like feathers. There is no need to model the shape of the paw with a haircut. There should not be too much hair growing between the dense pads. To do this, it is cut from time to time with great care using ordinary sharp scissors.

To maintain hair in good condition on the paws and lower parts of the body it should be brushed regularly. Almost all transitions between plucked and sheared surfaces should be smooth, and the border between them should be invisible. Only the eyebrows should be clearly separated from the short hair on the forehead and crown, and the beard and mustache should be clearly separated from the throat and cheekbones. In the Scottish Terrier, it is also necessary to remove excess hair on the elbows, shoulders, hips and knees so that the rest of the hair hangs straight down.

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Professional haircut scotch terrier

What are the features of a haircut?

The Scottish Terrier, or as it is also called the Scottish Terrier, is a breed of dog with a rather thick and tough coat that requires really careful grooming.
Puppies of this breed begin to be cut at the age of two months; the purpose of such early haircuts is to accustom the puppy to this procedure. Around six months, the dog undergoes a full treatment, which includes: plucking dead hairs; trimming with a clipper the places where the hair should have a minimum length: this is the throat, head, side neck parts, as well as the area near the anus; competent creation of an aesthetic silhouette using scissors. If the grown-up pet does not attend exhibitions, then to give a neat appearance, the Scotch Terrier’s haircut is done using scissors, clippers and a comb, resulting in a simplified look of the dog’s “hairstyle”: a short shaved head, neck and back, while the whiskers remain long. , eyebrows and beard, and in addition, a “skirt” starting approximately from the middle of the body.
  Scotch Terrier Grooming if he attends exhibitions, it will be somewhat different; a simplified version will not work here. In addition to cutting and constant combing, it is also necessary to add trimming - that is, plucking out dying, coarse hair, so that old, outdated hairs are replaced with new, hard, shiny and good-structured hairs. The main thing in trimming is to achieve a tight fit of the fur on the back along with the scruff. Grooming the Scotch Terrier should be accompanied by regular trimming, carried out approximately once every couple of months, so that after plucking there is not a lot of young hair left.
After bathing, the Scottish Terrier's coat should be dried thoroughly, since the thick undercoat usually takes quite a long time to dry. Since this dog’s coat requires daily brushing with a brush and comb, you can give your pet cute hairstyles by decorating it with hairpins, elastic bands and bows.

A little about the breed

Scottish Terriers are distinguished by their strength, strength, and muscularity. Their head is somewhat long, however, quite proportionate to the body, and their neck is very powerful. With a height at the withers of up to twenty-eight centimeters, these dogs weigh up to ten and a half kilograms. The elongated, hard coat with a soft undercoat forms mustaches, eyebrows and beards. The colors are: black, brindle and sand (wheat).
By nature, the Scottish Terrier is a cute, lively, hardy dog ​​with a decisive and rather persistent character. There is an opinion that these dogs are very proud and truly stubborn, living by their own needs and inner world. But in fact, these terriers really need the affection and love of their owners. Sometimes Scottish terriers are even called “ big dogs in a small package,” because despite their small stature, they have truly powerful teeth and necks. Representatives of this breed are very trainable, do not bark without a reason, but when the opportunity arises they will always stand up for themselves. Each Scotch Terrier has a huge reserve of strength and energy, the ability to adapt to both city life and country life. And these scotch tapes cannot live without regular physical activity and long walks.
Unfortunately, these terriers are predisposed to many types of cancer (especially stomach cancer, blood cancer, etc.). Research shows that bitches who live to be 11 years of age are more likely to get cancer. On average, such terriers live up to thirteen years. By the way, it is extremely undesirable to feed this breed with dry food.

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From the history of the breed

The Scottish Terrier is called by many names - Scottish Terrier, Scotch Terrier, Aberdeen Terrier, Scottish Ground Terrier, and briefly and affectionately “Scotty”.
The origin of this dog breed is purely Scottish. Although there is no exact information about when and how it appeared. It is assumed that the Scotch Terrier was bred in the west of the North. Scotland and the Hebrides. Documentary evidence that reflects early development This breed has not survived. At that time dogs in Scotland were kept mainly for hunting and no special effort was made to maintain any one type. Scotty proved to be a pretty good hunter. Even now, with proper training, he will be able to lure foxes and badgers out of holes first-class, because his sense of smell never fails, due to which ancient times he was indispensable in hunting.
The ancestors of the modern Scotch Terrier were most likely very popular in Aberdeen - indeed, to this day this breed Sometimes called the Aberdeen Terrier. By the way, most of the first exhibition record holders came from this particular area of ​​Scotland.
Many lovers of the Scottish Terrier claim that this breed is the oldest of the Highland Terriers, and all other breeds have already descended from it, while they assure that the Scottie is a purebred Highland Terrier.
In the 17th century, several dogs from the former Scottish-turned-English King James I were sent to France as gifts. In Europe, Scotty has, of course, gained great popularity.
The first Scottish Terrier standard was developed in 1879, but the beginning of the modern and high-quality development of this breed was carried out by the famous breeder Ludlow. He founded a club for these terriers in England in 1883. The first champions of this breed at the end of the 19th century differed from today's Scotties in having a slightly elongated body, not very short limbs, rough short hair that lay close to the body, and a saber-shaped tail. The color was most often variegated brindle. The Scottish terriers were improved by Van Best from the Scottish city of Aberdeen, who was one of the first to seriously study the breed.
In the 1920s, the brindle color dominated the breed, and black dogs were rare; the British tried to consolidate this color. At the same time, the silhouette of this breed changed. Scotch terriers came to Russia quite a long time ago; they could be seen here back in the 30s and 40s of the last century. Before the outbreak of World War I, the Scottish Terrier was one of the most fashionable breeds in many countries.

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If your dog is once well “made” by a specialist, then all you have to do is maintain this form always, regardless of the timing of exhibitions or the time of year.

The main decoration of the tape is the “skirt”. It should be moderately long and thick. The “skirt” and beard should be combed thoroughly; after a walk (especially in dirty weather), it is good to rinse the lower part of the “skirt”, removing sand and thorns. You can and should bathe your dog in ponds, brush your dog in the snow in winter, and in the rain in summer. A Scottish terrier with an overgrown muzzle and a “skirt” of icicles does not look at all cute. Every owner should be able to keep their pet always elegant. To maintain a beautiful “skirt”, have 2 overalls. One is made of bologna for rainy weather, the other is calico, so as not to fray the wool on thorns and grass, in the forest and park.

N
There is no once and for all established stereotype for caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat, but there are several basic grooming techniques, the results of which meet all the requirements for exhibitions and competitions.

Grooming begins with accustoming the puppy to a work table, where you need to regularly brush it with a stiff brush. This initial brushing brings the coat into the condition necessary for trimming and develops the puppy's habit of the desired stance.

No two dogs grow their fur the same way. For some, it grows in 9 weeks, but usually the process takes about 14 weeks. It all depends on individual characteristics wool Gradually you will be able to determine the dates of your next haircuts throughout the year. The Scottish Terrier is a dog with a double coat. Therefore, when removing the guard hair, you will find an undercoat, usually short and fluffy. It should be partially removed a few weeks after the initial trimming. This will allow a new, durable layer of wool to grow. The undercoat is removed either with a special trimming knife or with a comb. Never remove so much undercoat that the skin is visible - only remove enough to allow new wool grow up and lie down normally.

The withers are plucked approximately 14 -16 weeks before the show.

The body is plucked 3 weeks after trimming the withers

Plucked and trimmed 3 weeks after body trimming

Haircut short before exhibition

Decorating hair growth, combed and trimmed

Places of transition from longer to shorter hair. Leveled with thinning scissors.

There are different periods of time between trimming different parts of the body. First of all, the withers are trimmed (zone “A” in the diagram). The wool here must be plucked 14-16 weeks before the show. Leave the soft undercoat until the hair begins to grow. After 3 weeks, start trimming the neck and back (zone “B” in the diagram). After another 3 weeks, proceed to section “C”. Start from the occipital protuberance. But first of all, it is important to determine the place where the dog’s eyebrows will begin.

HEAD. When trimming the hair on the head, you must remember the requirements of the standard, which states that the Scotch Terrier's head should be long, with an almost flat skull, non-protruding cheekbones and a strong, deep muzzle. In this case, the skull and muzzle should be the same length. Everything that disrupts the picture of the clean lines of the head, that is, everything protruding and sticking out in different sides the fur must be removed. The head is cut against the grain, starting from an imaginary line running from the inside of the base of the ears to an imaginary line running along the eyebrows. Care must be taken not to cut off too much hair at the base of the eyebrows at the level of the brow ridges.

a) Correctly performed hair cutting on the head, as a result of which its angular silhouette is formed;

b
) Incorrect silhouette - too much hair left in front of and between the ears; too long eyebrows, poorly trimmed eyebrows; a mustache that is too fluffy and poorly trimmed, which generally violates the elongated shape of the head required by the standard;

c) Incorrect silhouette - short-cropped hair divides the head into two halves.

N
Correct treatment of hair on the head:

a) too much hair is left around the ears, eyebrows are too long, the hair on the back of the nose is not trimmed enough, the beard is not clearly separated from the throat;

b) too much fur is left around the ears, short eyebrows, mustache and beard are cut too deeply;

c) too little hair at the base of the inner edges ears, too short eyebrows and mustache.

On the crown of the head, the hair is cut short with a dog clipper. The hair on the cheekbones is also cut short, starting under the ears and continuing on a plane limited by a mental line connecting the outer corners of the eyes. On the underside of the neck (throat), the hair is also cut short from the sternum up, towards the chin to the line connecting the corners of the mouth.

CHEST, THROAT, CHEEKS. Treatment of the chest, throat and cheeks must be done with a dog clipper (zone “D” in the diagram). Starting from the protrusion of the breast bone, remove the hair almost to the corners of the lips. Mentally draw a line from outer corner eyes to the base of the ear. Below this line is the cheekbone, where the coat should be shorter than anywhere else. Clip the hair with a clipper from the base of the ear to a point 1 cm away from the outer corner of the eye. Detailed treatment of these areas

h
It involves smoothing out possible sharp transitions from long to shorter hair using thinning scissors. When examining a dog from the front, its chest should look wide and square. The cheeks are cut from the base of the ears to an oblique line running from the corner of the eye (outer) to the corner of the mouth. Under lower jaw the hair is removed down to the mole, from which vibrises (thick hairs) grow.

Processing wool on the front part of the body (front view):

a) correct - the line of the shoulders smoothly transitions into the vertical lines of the limbs, formed by correctly selected hair;

b) incorrect - too much hair is left on the shoulders, the dog looks overly muscular;

V
) incorrect - converging position thoracic limbs emphasized by too much hair on the shoulders and externally on the wide-set chest limbs.

EYEBROWS, BEARD, MUSTACHE. Before shaping the eyebrows, comb them forward and look closely at the dog. Pay attention to the size, shape and color of the eyes, as well as the distance between them. If the eyes are too wide, the eyebrows should extend beyond the outer corner of the eye so that the distance between them is about 1.8 cm. The fur in the area between the eyes should be trimmed short. When shaping your eyebrows, pay attention to their length. If your dog has small, dark, mischievous eyes, then the eyebrows should not be very long. If the shape and color of the eyes are far from perfect, the eyebrows should be longer. To cut eyebrows with scissors, start from the outer corner of the eye along an oblique line to the inner corner, where the eyebrow reaches the required length. The eyebrows are separated in the middle by a “parting”, the width of which should approximately correspond to the width of the bridge of the nose. A parting that is too wide will contribute to an optical increase in the width of the frontal part of the head.

The hair on the bridge of the nose is cut very short. However, on the sides of the nose, the fur of the greatest length should be left, forming a mustache, which, together with the formed beard, should be combed in the forward direction. The strands of hair under the eyes are cut with special care to avoid causing wounds. Great care should also be taken when cutting the hair on the plane between the inner corners of the eyes, under the longest strands that form the eyebrows. When looking at the dog, a slightly pronounced but quite noticeable transition should be visible under the eyes. You shouldn't leave too much hair on your eyebrows. This coat should not stick up or to the sides, but flow smoothly forward.

It goes without saying that eyebrows, mustaches and beards need to be combed daily. In addition, if the dog was given liquid food, after each feeding, the mustache and beard should be rinsed and dried before combing.

Differences in hair density between eyebrows and previously treated cheeks and forehead should be corrected. Using thinning scissors, slightly thin out (lighten) the eyebrows in the directions indicated by the arrows in Fig. 4C.

Then they are lightly trimmed in the same directions with sharp trimming. Do not remove too much hair from the base of the eyebrows (on brow ridges). This can create the appearance of an overly prominent forehead.

Using simple scissors, cut the hair diagonally from the outer corner of the eye to the corner of the lips (Fig. 4 E). Then the edge of the cut is thinned out with thinning scissors (Fig. 4 E). If the beard is too thick, it is thinned with thinning scissors against the grain and inward (Fig. 4 F).

There is a tendency among Scotch Terrier owners to let the whiskers grow freely, the longer the better. A long mustache creates the illusion of a longer head, but a mustache that is too long can ruin the whole look. If your mustache does not keep its shape, you should trim it.

The beard and mustache should be sharply separated from the throat and cheekbones, and the eyebrows should also be separated from the short hair on the forehead and crown without any transition.

EARS. Depending on the size and position of your dog's ears, small tufts of hair at the inner corner of the ear will help give it a required type. Very few Scottish Terriers have absolutely correct form and the position of the ears, so tufts of hair at the inner corner of the ear will improve appearance, creating the illusion of smaller ears.

A
) proper processing of hair at the base of the inner boundaries of the ears;

b) improper processing of fur at the base of the ears: too much long hair is left.

The fur on the ears is cut short along the outer and inner planes of the shell, up to the longer hair on the inner surface. lower limit auricle. Here beautiful brushes are formed, which, if necessary, are cut to such a length that they have sizes and shapes proportional to the size and shape of the head. Scotch's ears should not be too large; they are set high enough, but not too close to each other. It is these requirements that should be constantly remembered when forming brushes.

The base of the ears must be cleaned of hair very carefully. There should be no tousled hair sticking out in all directions, since such hair optically increases the width of the head at the back of the head.

On upper parts The fur of the edges of the ears is cut very carefully with ordinary sharp scissors until sharp tips of the ears are obtained (this seems to emphasize the natural wariness of the dog). You need to be especially careful when cutting those parts external border auricle, where they meet skin folds. In these places there is a high risk of causing small but painful, and therefore extremely unwanted, injuries and wounds to the dog. A common consequence of such damage is the refusal of the dog, which had previously calmly tolerated the haircut, to refuse any procedures performed in this place.

NECK. BACK. SIDE. The fur on the upper part of the neck, back, and upper parts of the sides is plucked using a very high-quality trimming knife (English dog handlers recommend plucking the fur with your fingers, but the use of this technique is only possible on individual individuals and when the fur is fully mature). The fur on these parts of the body should be moderately long, always hard, completely adjacent to the body, not at all tousled, sticking out to the sides and, especially, curly. Really thick, coarse and long hair is one that does not bristle when the dog is lightly stroked in the direction opposite to its growth.

The neck, when viewed in a mental cross-section, should have oval shape, but by no means round. This can be achieved by leaving a thicker layer of wool on its upper part. The transition between short hair on the crown of the head to longer hair on the neck should not be abrupt or noticeable. Immediately behind the occipital protuberance, between the ears, the hair should be left somewhat longer than on the crown, due to which a smooth transition will be ensured.

However, a dog in which this hair rises in steps or even bends over the short-cropped crown looks unnatural. Optical lengthening of the head, which can only be achieved by leaving a longer coat immediately behind the occipital protuberance, is unattainable in this case. In addition, an excessive amount of hair between the ears and immediately behind them contributes to the optical shortening of the neck and deterioration of its outline.

TAIL. When trimming the tail, pluck the hair only from the top and in the direction of its growth.

ABOUT
Tail hair processing:

a) correct;

b) incorrect - too much wool is left (“carrot”);

c) incorrect - too little fur is left, the tail is thin, giving the impression of being too long;

d) correction of the visual impression when “transferring” the tail.

The selected area of ​​the back of the body is trimmed with a machine.

The transition to the tail should be smooth! /blending/

The hair from the sides and bottom of the tail is removed using thinning scissors.

The tail should resemble a carrot. In order for the tail to look shorter, it is necessary to leave long hair on the rump so that it can be “draped” onto the inside of the lower part of the tail.

Also, the conical shape of the tail required by the breed standard, in the presence of minor deviations, can be given by a corrective haircut.

The fur near the anus, as well as on the planes located above and below them, is cut short with a clipper. A strip of width equal to the width of the tail is cut against the grain with a machine. You must be extremely careful when cutting this area. First of all, the transitions between the cropped and plucked planes on the croup and hips must be very carefully designed,

especially in the back. Under no circumstances should there be too much wool here. Even a small amount of excess hair noticeably lengthens the dog, albeit optically, but this is also extremely undesirable.

L
APY. Carefully inspect the paw pads. Using scissors, give the paw a natural shape. The fur on the paws is cut in a circle with ordinary sharp scissors to such an extent that there is no hair left sticking out to the sides like feathers.

N
Do not cut the hair on top of the fingers. When cutting the fur on the paws, you should try to emphasize the shape required by the breed standard. The paws of the pectoral limbs should have a rounded shape with rounded toes in a ball. The paws of the pelvic limbs should be somewhat smaller, but also lumpy. Therefore, it is necessary to devote Special attention wool growing between dense pads. There should not be too much of it, and therefore from time to time you should cut it off with ordinary sharp short scissors, taking great care.

If your dog has a hare's foot, make the hair on the middle toes shorter than on the outer toes. Check the length of the nails - if they are too long, trim them with a nail clipper.

FRAME. Using scissors, trim the fur that falls from the belly, leaving it long and trimming the edges slightly. Look at the dog in profile. If she is slightly higher at the loin than at the withers, remove some hair from that area.

a) The dog has straight shoulder blades and a not quite correct top line. In this case, it is advisable to trim the chest area more carefully; there should be more trimming on the upper side of the neck and withers. The fur on the sides and belly should be longer, then the legs will not stand out and the dog’s body will appear shorter. To hide the straightened angles of the hind legs, the hair on the hock joint should be longer.

b
) To eliminate “straight backness” it is trimmed shorter rear end hock, and more hair is left under the tail.

Trim and comb, assessing the topline from a distance. Make sure that the hair on the shoulders blends smoothly into the hair on the neck.

When trimming the front of the forelegs, try to create the impression of a level forehand. The hair on the front legs should blend smoothly into the hair between them.

By trimming the hindquarters, create a neat, even rear. Just like on the front legs, the hair on the hind legs smoothly transitions into the hair between them.

SHOULDERS. SIDE. HIPS. Excess hair on the shoulders, elbows, hips and knees must be removed so that the remaining hair hangs smoothly straight down. When running, the fur on these parts of the body should not fly to the sides. The transition from the plucked upper part of the sides to the fur of the lower parts of the body should be smooth, almost completely invisible. Enough hair should be left on the hips so that the croup is not wider than the body at the shoulders.

There is practically no dog whose body structure does not have certain errors. By cutting the coat appropriately, you can change the appearance of a dog with minor flaws. On the contrary, an unsatisfactory haircut can greatly ruin the appearance of the dog. Finally, in some cases due to poor

haircuts may give the false impression that the dog has significant deficiencies in body structure.

E
If the haircut hides some minor imperfections, this cannot in any way be considered the exhibitor’s intention to deceive the judge. An experienced judge will certainly detect these shortcomings during a thorough, detailed examination of the dog.

Hind limbs

a - a very good rear of the dog, but not at all well-groomed;

b - barrel-shaped rear legs are one of the problems of many Scotch Terriers. But you can try to hide this drawback;

c - hock joints close together. Trim the fur on the thighs more thoroughly, leaving more hair on inside knee and on the outside of the hock joint

Treatment of fur on the back of the body (side view):

a) correct;

b) incorrect - too much hair is left on the ischial tuberosities and on the freely standing limbs at the back;

c) incorrect - too much hair is left on the back of the thighs (breeches); d) incorrect - the hock joint is too emphasized.

Treatment of fur on the back of the body (rear view):

a) correct;

b) incorrect - no attempt has been made to correct the natural barreliness of the pelvic limbs through appropriate processing of the wool;

c) incorrect - the transition from short plucked wool to long wool is poorly formed;

d) incorrect - too much hair is left on the upper thighs.

ABOUT
however, as a true connoisseur, he will certainly point out that the dog makes a good overall impression and overall looks great. When cutting wool before an exhibition, you need to pay special attention to those parts of the body in which minor errors are noted in the structure.

If your back is not quite straight, has a slight sag or arch, you can correct the impression with a haircut. In the first case, leaving the hair slightly longer than on the withers and croup. In the second case, the hair should be shorter than on the withers and croup.

AND
straightening the back line due to appropriate processing of the wool:

a) saggy

b) hunchbacked.

According to the famous English breeder W. Berry (Wybury Nursery), the most common mistakes when caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat, they consist of improper treatment of the neck, back, limbs and sides. The mistakes are that the hair on the neck and back is often plucked too short. These two disadvantages also include one more - too much hair is left in the lower parts of the ears and around them.

Of course, caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat requires certain skills and a fairly developed aesthetic sense. People who have no experience should not undertake this or at least should try to get detailed instructions from experienced groomers. The description of the process of caring for the Scottish Terrier's coat is only a very general outline, and with careful and detailed processing you need to be guided by the features inherent individual dog. It should always be remembered that the Scottish Terrier is a dog with a relatively long and narrow head and a short body, which, despite its small size, has a strong, but not coarse physique.

(Based on materials from Ivan Stukhla ‘Care for the Scottish Terrier’s coat’, Natalya Leonova’s ‘Scotch tape. Coat care’,

N. Flerova “Grooming dogs and caring for their fur.”)