How to make a magnifying glass at home? DIY converging lens How you can replace a magnifying glass at home


Hi all!
It's time for Photoshop lessons.
In this article I will tell you, how to draw in Photoshop magnifying glass (magnifying glass) and convey the correct reflection in it.
After all the steps are completed, you will end up with something like this:

For the lesson I will use this photo:

Save and open this image in Photoshop.
Of course, you don’t have to use this particular picture; you can find any other picture on the Internet.

Select from the tools on the left " Oval selection»

To draw an even circle, press and hold the "Shift" key while using the mouse to start making an oval selection.

Now press the “Ctrl+J” keys on your keyboard. You will get a duplicate selection onto a new layer:

Go back to the first layer "Layer 1". This image needs to be scaled down a bit. On your keyboard, press “ Ctrl + T" and write 85% to Width and Height at the top:

Then click on the checkmark to the right:

Now go to “Layer 2" and click on the menu “Select” => “Select again”.
Then click on the menu "Filter" => "Distortion" => "Spherization" with the following settings: “Amount -80%”. Click "OK":

This is the result you should get:

Let's apply some effects to the same layer. Select from the top menu "Layers" => "Layer Style" => "Inner Shadow" with these settings:

The image can be enlarged

Let's add a reflection on the magnifying glass for realism
Create a new layer.
From the tools on the left, select " Oval selection". Draw and fill with white a circle like the one in my picture:

Deselect and click on "Layer 3" with highlight “Filter” => “Blur” => “Gaussian Blur...”. Select 17px.

This is roughly how it will work out for you:

Now let's create another layer for the second highlight. Only the highlight will be smaller and without blur, as in my picture:

Making a frame for a magnifying glass

Hold down the "Ctrl" key and select "Layer 2" for selection. Now create and go to a new layer. Color it with #202020 :

Now in the menu click “Select” => “Modify” => “Compress” and select “Compress by” 7 pixels there. Now click on the “Delete” button to clear the selected area:

Now duplicate Layer 5 (the same one) and go back to the same layer (Layer 5).
Select in "Layers" => "Layer Style" => "Gradient Overlay" with these settings:

Move this layer a little lower:

Create a “Duplicate Layer” and move it even lower, and so on 3 times:

A lighted magnifying glass is, of course, most needed by forensic scientists studying fingerprints. It is also needed for children who are interested in wood burning. But it can be very useful for you and me in everyday life. As is known, according to current legislation helpful information information about the product must be printed on its packaging.
But you probably noticed that it is printed in small print (especially if this information is undesirable for the seller or manufacturer).

How to make a magnifying glass with LED light

An illuminated magnifying glass will help you easily read the instructions for any medicine, the inscription on any package, or the intentionally small print of a credit or insurance agreement. It allows you to read small but necessary text in any conditions, for example, in a dimly lit store or in a gateway.

The good thing about backlit text is that it is perceived as having more contrast, so your eyesight doesn’t strain or get tired when reading for a long time.

An illuminated magnifying glass helps men with soldering and repair work with small parts, women with searching for small pieces of jewelry that have fallen out of a dark entrance, and children with studying insects, philately, and working with microcircuits.

That’s why we suggest you make such a backlit lamp with your own hands.

Preparing materials:

– 8 white SMD PLCC LEDs;
– 8 SMD resistors (size 0805 or 1206) 100 Ohm each;
regular magnifying glass;
– a printed circuit board cut in the shape of a ring from a foil blank (according to the size of a magnifying glass);
– battery compartment for AA batteries (for 4 places);
– 4 batteries;
– Moment glue;
– connecting stranded wires of two insulation colors – one meter of wire of each color;

– wire cutters;
– soldering iron and solder;
– Dremel with cutting wheel;
– a drilling machine with large diameter drills.

Designing an illuminated magnifying glass

First, we prepare the printed circuit board to which the LEDs will be soldered. It should consist of two concentric rings separated from each other. The inner diameter of the ring plate should be equal to the diameter of lens A, and the outer diameter should be equal to the diameter of the lens frame B.

Such a board can be cut from copper foil on a milling machine. But you can also do it manually - using a Dremel and a drilling machine.

Now let's prepare the LEDs. We have white SMD LEDs in PLCC housing. The size of the LEDs does not matter - any one will do: 0805. or 1206. Let us only take into account that it is easier to solder large LEDs. It’s the same with resistors: it’s more convenient to solder resistors in large cases. Solder a resistor to the positive terminal of each of the 8 LEDs at a right angle, as shown in the photo.

We mark eight equidistant positions along the edge of the ring board and solder a pair of LED-resistor at each mark, as shown in the photo. To ensure that soldering occurs without unnecessary heat and without fuss, we first tin the soldering areas with tin. Having soldered each LED-resistor pair, use a multimeter to check whether the LED lights up. This way we make sure that the LEDs were not damaged during the soldering process.

Having carefully aligned the board with soldered LEDs, we glue the LEDs outward to the lens frame from the lens side (we use Moment glue). We solder lead wires of different colors to the inner and outer rings.

Now we connect a current source to the copper strips of the ring board: we solder the negative terminal from the battery compartment to the inner concentric ring, and the positive terminal to the outer one. You can also include a switch in the circuit, although to turn off the device you can simply remove the battery.

Instructions

To build lens Fresnel You yourself need to have a significant understanding of optics. So, unlike conventional lenses, fresnel does not consist of solid glass, but of concentric rings with a special prism shape in cross-section. Make calculations and determine zone boundaries Fresnel. They are determined by the intersection of the wavefront of the original wave with a sequence of wavefronts of the “projected wave” shifted relative to each other by l/2.

Make clear rings to cover odd-numbered areas Fresnel. Their thickness must correspond to the additional phase shift l/2. For convenience, use the drawing.

To achieve the greatest effect, coat the ends of each prism with a coating, for example, aluminum. Articulate the structure by checking the position of the prisms using the equation.

There are two types of lenses Fresnel– ring and belt. Unlike ring lenses, which direct the light flux in a strictly defined direction, waist lenses distribute light from the source in all directions. At the lens Fresnel The scope of application is very diverse: from marine beacons and photographic lenses to a special film that is applied to the rear window of a car to reduce the blind spot behind the car when using the rear-view mirror.

Simultaneously with the creation of the lens O.Zh. Fresnel developed the most complex technology for its production. In a nutshell, we are talking about making a lens consisting of a set of several prisms in the form of thin rings. IN modern conditions such production is possible only with the use of modern high-precision processing, vacuum-spraying and control-measuring equipment.

In the production of lenses Fresnel HOTLENS technology uses holography, thanks to which it focuses more accurately infrared radiation and the impact is reduced, for example, visible light. Such lenses make it possible to create a more accurate detection zone in space. A set of technological equipment for the production of lenses Fresnel includes precision lathes, which carry out trimming and preliminary rounding of workpieces. Sphero-lathes process external and internal surfaces lenses

The most important step is grinding the surface of the lens. It is carried out on polishing machines. The polishing process simultaneously removes roughness and improves the cleanliness of the spherical surfaces of the lenses. The edges of the lenses are polished on special machines, and special diamond cutters are used to process the concave and convex surfaces of the lenses. In addition, all necessary technological equipment is manufactured at such enterprises.

A lens is a transparent device, mostly made of special glass, designed to magnify an image. The lens is the main part of any optical system. The principle of its operation is based on the refraction of light rays. Make glass lens using a homemade method is very difficult, especially without necessary equipment there is no way around this matter. But based on the effect of light refraction, we can do lens liquid based.

You will need

  • Plastic bottle, plasticine, glycerin or water, syringe with needle, plastic bag.

Instructions

Take a one and a half liter plastic bottle. From the top of this bottle, cut out two identical, convex circles (for convenience, cut out one circle first, and then cut the second one according to its diameter).

Then, take ordinary plasticine or some other sticky material. Use this plasticine to glue both halves of the lens so that it is convex on both sides.

After this, make holes in two places between the halves of the lens. Fill one of these holes with a syringe using a syringe (you can fill it with ordinary water, but it is better to use a liquid with a high refractive index, try filling lens glycerin, the effect will be better), fill it to the brim and there should be no air bubbles in it. The second hole is designed to allow air to escape so that pressure does not build up. After filling the lens with liquid, seal the holes.

In extreme conditions, for example, being in the taiga in winter, without matches, you can make lens for making a fire. To do this, take an ordinary plastic bag and fill it with water. Shape the bag into a ball and let the water freeze. Once frozen, tear off the bag to create a lens. The lens can also be cut out of frozen ice.

Good light in a car is the most important safety parameter. Modern technologies develop at speed spaceship and the solutions used 5 years ago already look hopelessly outdated today. It is not profitable for automakers to update old products, but third-party developers actively support this topic. To improve the design and luminous flux, it is proposed to install lens into the reflective design of the headlight.

You will need

  • - lenses;
  • - industrial dryer;
  • - Screwdriver Set;
  • - gloves;
  • - plastic and soldering iron

Instructions

First remove and completely disassemble headlight on your car. When removing headlights, follow the repair instructions. To disassemble the headlight, warm it up with an industrial low heat.

The Fresnel lens is almost the very first, according to historical chronology, device, the basis of which is the principle of light diffraction. Despite the age of this invention, it has not lost its relevance today and has found application in many areas.

What is a Fresnel Lens

A Fresnel lens is a complex compound lens. Unlike ordinary lenses, it does not consist of a single ground piece of glass with a spherical surface, but of individual concentric rings. They are tightly adjacent to each other and have a small thickness. In cross-section they are prisms of a special profile. This type of lens got its name from the French physicist Augustin Fresnel, who proposed it, who worked in the field of physical optics.

Thanks to its unique design, this lens model is lightweight and thin. The sections of its rings are constructed in such a way that it spherical aberration is extremely small, as a result of which the rays refracted by it emerge as a single parallel beam. The diameter of the Fresnel lens varies from a couple of centimeters to several meters.

Fresnel lenses are usually divided into ring and belt. The first direct a beam of light in one predetermined direction. The latter send light from the source in all directions in one plane.

Application of Fresnel Lens

To date, the Fresnel Lens has found wide application in many areas.

For example, they are used in large lighthouses, projection televisions, navigation lights, railway lens traffic lights and semaphore lights. And due to its low weight, the Fresnel lens is also used in lighting devices that need to be moved during operation.

And when placed on the rear window of a car in the form thin film, it significantly reduces the “dead” zone behind the car, observed in the rearview mirror.

An ultra-flat, lightweight magnifying glass is created based on the Fresnel Lens. It is her help that people with low vision resort to when reading texts in small print.

In addition, similar lenses are used in infrared motion sensors and lens antennas.

There are a couple more promising areas in which the Fresnel Lens can be used. Its use is presumably possible in the construction of space telescopes of gigantic diameters.

It is also likely to be used as a solar energy concentrator for solar panels.

Sources:

  • Simple about science

How to make a lens?

If you don’t have a lens at hand at the right time, don’t be upset, as you can make one yourself very quickly. To do this, you need to study the recommendations on how to make a lens with your own hands.

Plastic bottle lenses

In this case, let's try to make a biconvex lens. During the work you will need:

  • paper;
  • plastic bottle(preferably transparent);
  • scissors;
  • plasticine/clay;
  • tubes;
  • water.

Manufacturing

You can also use an ordinary syringe instead of tubes and use it to fill the lens with water. In this case, insert the syringe needle on one side and gradually fill the lens with water, and on the opposite side you need to make a hole for air.

Ice Lens

If you are in a cold area and don't have a bottle or materials at hand, you can make a simple optical lens using ice. To do this, fill a bag with water and place it in a cold place (preferably in the freezer). As it hardens, give the lens a flattened shape. After the water in the bag turns into ice, the lens can be used.

The next thing to consider is processes production of contact lenses. IN modern world, there are three main methods for manufacturing these simple devices.

The oldest method currently used is centrifugal formation. Liquid polymer is injected into a mold spinning at high speeds, where it is instantly exposed ultraviolet radiation And high temperature, resulting in fairly rapid hardening of the material.
Next, the prepared contact lens is removed from the mold and saturated with water, this stage is also called hydration. Afterwards it is polished, tinted and thoroughly chemically cleaned.

There is also such a way lens manufacturing, as turning - it is used in the manufacture of soft and hard, more often called hard, contact lenses. To do this, workpieces are used from a pre-polymerized substance, after which they are processed on a lathe. Then these lenses are carefully polished, saturated with water, chemically cleaned from all foreign impurities, and tinted. The final stage of the process is sterilization, where the lens is heated to 121°-124° C. After which the contact lenses should be packaged and labeled.

Another popular method production of contact lenses- this is casting. It is the least labor-intensive of the above methods. All that is required is a metal matrix form; it should be taken into account that for each type of lens, with certain parameters, it is individual. Thousands of plastic copies are cast using this matrix. The lower part of each mold is filled with liquid polymer and inserted on top top part shape, this acts as a kind of press. In the space between the two halves of the form, our lens is obtained. Next, the contact lens is saturated with water, then polished, cleansed, tinted, sterilized, and packaged, as in all previously discussed cases.

It should be noted that there are also combined manufacturing technologies that are often used in the production of lenses. The most common example of a combined method is Reversible Process III. Its essence is based on the fact that back The lenses are formed by turning, and the front lenses are produced by centrifugal molding.

There are quite a few similar techniques. Each manufacturer focuses on efficiency, speed and ease of production, and has the right to choose any of the listed technologies, introducing their own subtleties and wishes, inventing new and new methods. Progress does not stand still, we can be absolutely sure that in the near future, the production of contact lenses will reach new level, making our vision perfect, our gaze natural and beautiful, and us - more successful and more self-confident.

A telescope is a device that receives electromagnetic radiation from distant objects and brings it into focus to produce a magnified image. The most important part of it is the lenses. To make a simple working telescope, you can buy them at any optics store or make it yourself.

You will need

Window glass;
- tubular drill;
- coarse abrasive;
- Metal sheet;
- plasticine;
- balsam.

Posting sponsor P&G Articles on the topic “How to make your own lenses for a telescope” What is a telescope How to make the simplest amplifier How to make a homemade antenna for a 3g modem

Instructions


Place a sheet of glass on a flat board and secure with three wooden planks so that they form an equilateral triangle. Nail the ends of the planks to the table. Insert a tubular drill bit into the triangle formed. Drill through the glass using coarse sandpaper. Wet the drilling area generously with water so that the abrasive gradually falls into the recess. To prevent chips from forming when the drill comes out of the glass, back side glass is glued with hot resin to a sheet of metal 3 mm thick. To prevent water from spreading on the glass, make a low plasticine side. When cutting, rotate the drill bit vigorously from side to side. Make a step grinder from bronze, brass or other metal. Grind the lens on a turntable, having previously secured the workpiece in a special mandrel. Pre-grind the convex lens using an emery wheel. Start sanding with M40 micropowder. Having smoothed out the unevenness after stripping, change the powder to M20, and after 20 minutes - to M10. After sanding, polish the product. Form a polishing pad from the hardest resin. While polishing, let the resin cool every 3 minutes and form a polishing pad on the lens to polish the flat side of the lens. Glue achromatic lenses with Canada balsam or balsam. Place the pieces of balm in a test tube and place it in a metal mug with water. When the water boils, the balm is ready for use. 11 Place a board a few millimeters thick on the burner, turned on low. Place the lenses on it and heat them to 70? C. 12 Place a drop of balm on the concave surface of one lens, place it on the second lens and squeeze them tightly. 13 When the balm spreads over the surface to be glued, let the lenses cool. Remove excess balm with a knife, wipe the lens with turpentine, wash with soap and wipe with alcohol. Before the alcohol dries, rinse it with water. Place the finished lens in the frame. How simple

Other news on the topic:

A telescope is an optical instrument in astronomy, which is designed to study and observe starry sky. The cost of such a device ranges from $250 and above. If you do not have the means, but want to have a telescope at home, then you can easily make it yourself. To you

The one who has been wearing for a long time contact lenses, won’t even remember what it’s like to not be able to put them on? Everything is so simple that, over time, the process becomes automatic and routine. Like brushing your teeth or making tea. But beginners are always calmer if there are clear recommendations. To you

Eyeglass lenses are a good material for a high-quality telescope. Before you buy a good telescope, you can make one yourself from inexpensive and available funds. If you or your child want to get interested in astronomical observations, then the construction homemade telescope will help you study both the theory of optical devices and observational practice.

Despite the fact that a refracting telescope built from spectacle glasses will not show you much in the sky, the experience and knowledge gained will be priceless. Afterwards, if you are interested in telescope construction, you can build a more advanced reflecting telescope, for example Newton’s system (see other sections of our website).



There are three types of optical telescopes: refractors (a lens system as a lens), reflectors (a lens - a mirror), and catadioptric (mirror-lens). All modern largest telescopes are reflectors; their advantage is the absence of chromatism and possible large sizes lens, because the larger the diameter of the lens (its aperture), the higher its resolution, and the more light is collected, and therefore the fainter astronomical objects are visible through the telescope, the higher their contrast, and the greater magnifications can be applied.

Refractors are used where high precision and contrast are required or in small telescopes. And now about the simplest refractor, with a magnification of up to 50 times, with which you can see: the largest craters and mountains of the Moon, Saturn with its rings (like a ball with a ring, not a “dumpling”!), bright satellites and the disk of Jupiter, some stars invisible to the naked eye.



Any telescope consists of a lens and an eyepiece; the lens builds a magnified image of the object that is viewed, then through the eyepiece. The distance between the lens and the eyepiece is equal to the sum of their focal lengths (F), and the magnification of the telescope is equal to Fob./Fok. In my case it is approximately 1000/23 = 43 times, i.e. 1.72D with an aperture of 25 mm.

1 - eyepiece; 2 - main pipe; 3 - focusing tube; 4 - diaphragm; 5 - tape that secures the lens to the third tube, which can be easily removed, for example, to replace the diaphragm; 6 - lens.

As a lens, let's take a blank lens for glasses (can be bought at any "Optics") with a power of 1 diopter, which corresponds to a focal length of 1 m. Eyepiece - I used the same achromatic coated gluing as for the microscope, I think for such a simple device - this is a good option. As a body, I used three tubes made of thick paper, the first about a meter, the second ~20 cm. The short one is inserted into the long one.



The lens - the lens is attached to the third tube with the convex side facing outwards, a disk is installed immediately behind it - a diaphragm with a hole in the center with a diameter of 25-30 mm - this is necessary, because a single lens, and even a meniscus, is a very bad lens and for obtaining of tolerable quality, you have to sacrifice its diameter. The eyepiece is in the first tube. Focusing is done by changing the distance between the lens and the eyepiece, moving the second tube in or out, focusing conveniently on the Moon. The lens and eyepiece must be parallel to each other and their centers must be strictly on the same line; the diameter of the tube can be taken, for example, 10 mm larger than the diameter of the aperture hole. In general, when making a case, everyone is free to do as they wish.

A few notes:
- do not install another lens after the first one in the lens, as advised on some sites - this will only cause light loss and deterioration in quality;
- also do not install the diaphragm deep in the pipe - this is not necessary;
- it’s worth experimenting with the diameter of the diaphragm opening and choosing the optimal one;
- you can also take a lens of 0.5 diopters (focal length 2 m) - this will increase the aperture opening and increase the magnification, but the length of the tube will become 2 meters, which may be inconvenient.
A single lens is suitable for the lens, the focal length of which is F = 0.5-1 m (1-2 diopters). It's not difficult to get; it is sold in an optical store that sells glasses lenses. Such a lens has a whole bunch of aberrations: chromaticism, spherical aberration. Their influence can be reduced by using lens aperture, that is, reducing the entrance aperture to 20 mm. What's the easiest way to do this? Cut a ring out of cardboard equal to the diameter of the pipe and cut the same entrance hole (20 mm) inside, and then place it in front of the lens almost close to the lens.



It is even possible to assemble a lens from two lenses in which the chromatic aberration that appears as a result of light dispersion will be partially corrected. To eliminate it, take 2 lenses of different shapes and materials - collecting and diverging - with different dispersion coefficients. A simple option: buy 2 spectacle lenses made of polycarbonate and glass. In a glass lens the dispersion coefficient will be 58-59, and in polycarbonate it will be 32-42. the ratio is approximately 2:3, then we take the focal lengths of the lenses with the same ratio, say +3 and -2 diopters. We add these values ​​and get a lens with a focal length of +1 diopter. We fold the lenses tightly; the collective should be the first to the lens. If it is a single lens, then it should have the convex side facing the object.

How to make a telescope without an eyepiece?! The eyepiece is the second important detail telescope, we can’t go anywhere without it. It is made from a magnifying glass with a focal distance of 4 cm. Although for the eyepiece it is better to use 2 plano-convex lenses (Ramsden eyepiece), setting them at a distance of 0.7f. The ideal option is to get the eyepiece from ready-made instruments (microscope, binoculars). How to determine the magnification size of a telescope? Divide the focal length of the lens (for example, F=100cm) by the focal length of the eyepiece (for example, f=5cm), you get 20 times the magnification of the telescope.

Then we need 2 tubes. Insert the lens into one, and the eyepiece into the other; Then we insert the first tube into the second. Which tubes should I use? You can make them yourself. Take a sheet of whatman paper or wallpaper, but be sure to have a thick sheet. Roll the tube to fit the diameter of the lens. Then you fold another sheet of thick paper and place the eyepiece (!) tightly into it. Then insert these tubes tightly into each other. If a gap appears, wrap the inner tube in several layers of paper until the gap disappears.

Now your telescope is ready. How to make a telescope for astronomical observations? You're just blackening out internal cavity each pipe. Since we are making a telescope for the first time, we will use a simple method of blackening. Just paint the inside of the pipes with black paint. The effect of the first telescope created independently will be stunning. Surprise your family with your design skills!
Often the geometric center of the lens does not coincide with the optical center, so if you have the opportunity to have the lens sharpened by a specialist, do not neglect it. But in any case, an unground spectacle lens blank will do. The diameter of the lens is not of great importance for our telescope. Because spectacle lenses are highly susceptible to various obberations, especially the edges of the lens, then we will aperture the lens with a diaphragm with a diameter of about 30 mm. But to observe different objects in the sky, the aperture diameter is selected empirically and can vary from 10 mm to 30 mm.

Good day. Starting to get involved in numismatics and having gray hair with a coin and a magnifying glass a large number of time (while discovering that one pupil is larger than the other, it seems to be chronic), I decided to return their natural charm by converting a state-of-the-art telephone into a magnifying glass. This device is called HTC beats audio (of course, China). Being on the verge of disposal (reasons: the battery almost does not hold a charge, and it is difficult to find the same one, and the phone is so-so), he did not resist the rework. Before the photo shoot, the device wanted to undergo a cleaning and disinfection procedure. (in two words, wipe with alcohol). Here he is.

The tools I needed were:
Scissors, a folding knife, tweezers (or a device for manipulating small objects that are impossible, inconvenient, or undesirable or dangerous to handle with unprotected hands) and a dental spatula (very convenient for picking).

From the materials I needed (came to hand):
Self-tapping screws, as you can see for roofing yourself, are usually found on the roof (neighbors’ ones are even better).

Double-sided tape.

Let's start vandalism. What I liked about this phone is that there is minimal rework. All the manipulations carried out with it took less than thirty minutes, and the result exceeded all expectations, so to speak, but you can evaluate this for yourself at the end of the article by looking at a few photographs.
And so I open the battery compartment cover.

I use a knife to pry out the plastic camera lens protection, which is poorly glued and uses poor quality glue. Naturally, observing proper safety precautions so as not to chop your limbs, and I think you shouldn’t damage the polished surface of the optics, so as not to look at a solid cloudy spot later.

Next, I very carefully, using tweezers and a dental spatula, slightly pulled out and began to unscrew the lens with its body from the base of the camera; to my surprise, it was not secured, as is usually the case, with a drop of glue (or maybe it wasn’t glue).

If it had been glued, then I would have had to disassemble the phone, in general, I was very lucky. After closing the lid back and adjusting the focus, it is practically a nearly complete magnifying device.

But considering that it would not be very convenient to look at something, holding it with (sometimes shaking, just a joke) hands, I decided to install the phone on the legs. I also decided that I wouldn’t burden myself too much with these legs, and I didn’t. Using double-sided tape, I glued the washers to the lid, which were easily torn out from the screws. It could have been done differently and with other washers, but as I already wrote, I wanted it quickly, and the screws fell under the (hot) hand.




The height adjustment (for viewing coins) was done by additionally placing double-sided tape; in my case, the optimal amount was three layers of double-sided tape under each washer, but I adjusted the focus setting by twisting it “with the lens itself.” Well, a few photos that were taken with the finished device. Coin fifty kopecks St. Petersburg Mint (photo taken with a 5 megapixel digital camera).

It’s the same, but only through a ready-made (enlarger) filmed on a digital camera.

Ten kopeck coin from the Moscow Mint through a phone with a digital camera.

He simply took a photograph using a directly converted camera.

Ten again.

Sugar crystals on a ten-kopeck coin.

I didn’t do any backlighting, but I think with properly done backlighting the quality of the photos would be much better. On the cover it says that the phone’s camera is five megapixels (I don’t believe it), by the way, you can compare it with a digital camera, it’s also five megapixels.

For the test, I even decided to sacrifice my hair, a hair pulled from my head, lost and mercilessly torn out again.

Hair against the background of a sugar crystal.

Calipers.

Caliper scale.

I noticed that when you photograph everything as if smaller, for example, the scale of a caliper (in the photo below), the same photo on the screen of a magnifying phone looks different, the screen only fits two millimeters across the entire width, in other words, the magnification is much greater.

Although I was not chasing the maximum magnification (then the article would have been called a microscope from a Chinese phone). But I needed a simple, very quickly made device, specifically for examining coins and, through visual comparison, weeding out mediocre ones, and sending dubious ones to a personal computer and examining them with various programs that can work with photographs and can superimpose images on each other.
And a few more photos. Gel pen paste with fine tip.

All modern phones are equipped with a camera that allows you to take photos or record videos.

Some users have found an additional use for the built-in camera - as a magnifying glass. Most matrices have sufficient resolution to zoom in on a specific object and see the smallest details. This feature allows you not to carry a magnifying glass with you - just turn on your smartphone to read small text or examine an image. The function will be especially useful for visually impaired people.

How to use a magnifying glass on your phone?

The easiest way to use a magnifying glass is to launch the camera and set the required magnification (zoom). Depending on the software shell, the corresponding option is contained in the settings or on the main screen of the program. You can try making a stretching gesture with two fingers.

You will also need to turn on automatic focus so that the image on the screen is as clear and rich as possible. However, the stock Camera application is inconvenient for regular use of a magnifying glass, so we suggest that you familiarize yourself with third-party applications.

How to make a magnifying glass from a phone?

Magnifier from App2U. The application has simple controls. After startup, the built-in camera turns on, the image from the matrix and the zoom adjustment scale are displayed on the screen. There are also additional features - manual focusing and turning on the backlight. The program is ideal for reading small inscriptions or delicate work, such as soldering parts.

Magnifying glass from Cool Guy. Features a simplified interface. Several functions are available to the user - the ability to enlarge the image, backlight, focusing on objects. You can also sharpen the image to see even the smallest details. The application is small in size, so it does not clog the built-in memory of the smartphone.

Magnifying glass from HANTOR. A fairly functional application of its kind, offering users several options. It supports four times image magnification, there are built-in filters (sepia, monochrome) and a button to turn on the backlight. You can control the zoom using the volume keys or a slider located on the screen.

Maximum magnification and zoom quality

The magnification factor varies depending on the installed application. Most programs allow you to achieve 8x zoom. This is enough for reading small inscriptions, viewing images or objects. Application developers cannot increase the magnification ratio above the mentioned indicator, since camera matrices have physical limitations.

conclusions

Smartphone Magnifier is a great app to help visually impaired people and users looking at small objects. It takes up little space in the built-in memory, but has excellent functionality.