Simple instructions: how to care for fish in an aquarium. Aquarium fish - where to start

A beautiful aquarium in the house brings joy into our lives while contemplating fish and has a beneficial effect on the human psyche. Every novice aquarist involuntarily wonders where to start in order to select everything correctly for the aquarium, start it correctly the first time and prevent the death of the inhabitants.

Before purchasing an aquarium, you need to carefully consider its design and shape, allowing it to fit into the interior of the room as naturally as possible without interfering with its main purpose. In addition, it is necessary to place it in a place convenient for viewing.

According to their design, aquariums are available on a stand, on legs, suspended, corner, framed and frameless. In form they are represented by more than wide choice, the main ones being:

• spherical (round);
• cubic (square);
• parallelepipedal (rectangular);
• parallelepipedal with convex viewing glass (panoramic);
• prismoidal (with a regular polygon bottom, usually high, for floor installation);
• pyromidoidal (triangular, for closed aquariums).

The main parameters for choosing a container for keeping fish are the following factors:

• correct installation, allowing for various manipulations during operation (removing or installing the lid and lighting, feeding fish, planting plants, cleaning the filter, bottom siphon, etc.);
• direct hit exclusion sun rays on its surface;
• the number and size of the population of the aquarium (the required volume of the tank depends on this. If there is no certainty about specific fish, then take at least 1 liter of water per 1 cm of adult fish, i.e. if you want to keep 10 fish 8 cm long, you need an aquarium more than 80 liters, this will avoid overpopulation and allow its inhabitants to develop well and feel comfortable).

Aquarium accessories

Along with the aquarium, they offer covers with built-in lighting and stands for them. If there is no specific place to install an aquarium, then you can take advantage of this offer. An illuminated aquarium lid will prevent many species of fish from jumping out, reduce water evaporation, and also provide artificial lighting to plants and allow you to control the length of daylight hours. The cabinet is suitable for storing all kinds of accessories (net, tubes, suction cups, feeders, literature, etc.), food and other aquarium equipment.

Aquarium equipment

There is a standard set of equipment for aquariums:

• lighting (the choice of lamp power and duration of illumination during the day depends on the inhabitants and plants);
• water heater (it is better to choose one with automatic temperature control);
• the aerator and water filter can be either combined or separate (the power depends on the volume of the aquarium).

The selection of soil and decoration depends on the inhabitants, but fine-grained rounded gravel without sharp edges is considered universal. The thickness of the soil at the bottom should be from 5 to 7 cm, this will allow plants to take root and grow well, and will also provide biological filtration due to bacteria that process organic matter. You can use ceramics, driftwood and grottoes to decorate and create a unique interior.

Selection of inhabitants and vegetation

Almost all viviparous fish are suitable for beginner aquarists:, and. They are beautiful, elegant, easy to maintain and hardy. Keeping and breeding these species will allow you to master the basics of aquarium keeping with minimal financial and time investment.

You can also consider the family for the role of the first aquarium fish. They are hardy and peaceful, and a school of nimble, shiny fish is very interesting to watch.

Small cyprinids are also an excellent option for the first aquarium inhabitants. They are peaceful, hardy and gregarious. Barbs would also be excellent candidates. They are also very good, but they are often cocky, posing a danger to clumsy, good-natured fish.

If you want to immediately start with something serious and large, you can get some South American cichlases, for example, or. They are smart and hardy, but they require a lot large volumes- from 50 to 100 liters per individual, as well as good equipment with high-quality filtration and aeration. In addition, most cichlids are quite quarrelsome, and keeping them with other species is very problematic.

You can add several small catfish to the peace-loving fish. They have different colors, body shapes and behavior. They monitor the cleanliness of the aquarium by eating leftover food, and small ones are able to clean off organic growth from the walls.

From the bottom inexpensive plants you can use, from the surface - richia, duckweed and. You can also add lumps of moss - or.

Thorn fish.

Starting an aquarium

It takes about two weeks before beautiful fish are released into the aquarium. In one day you can do:

• test filling of the aquarium to check the seams for leakage;
• laying the soil, planting plants, installing decorations, lighting, heating, filter-aerator;
• filling the aquarium with tap water;
• turning on the heater and aerator filter.

Afterwards, you need to wait a week so that the biological balance of the aquarium is established. It is allowed to add various conditioners to the water to improve water parameters. Before using them, you should consult with competent aquarists or sellers who know the parameters of tap water in your region.

After a week, you can release the first, most hardy inhabitants - ampullaria snails, newts, frogs or shrimp. Often the first are . They have a beneficial effect on the development of the ecosystem in the aquarium. The water in an indoor pond becomes stable for about a month and may become cloudy. Over time it will clear and become transparent. And only depending on the condition of the water and the well-being of the ampularia, after about a week you can release the most hardy fish. You can read more about the first launch of the aquarium.

Ampularia snail.

From practical experience

There are a few general advice on keeping and breeding fish, but it all depends on the specific inhabitants of your aquarium.

1. It is better to purchase a rectangular aquarium without panoramic glass, and its length should be more height, and the width is less than the height.
2. It is not recommended to place the aquarium directly on the stand; there must be a soft lining to smooth out various unevenness. The aquarium itself should stand on a flat, smooth surface and its edges should not protrude beyond the edge of the cabinet, otherwise the glass may become deformed or even crack.
3. Round spherical vases are not suitable for keeping aquarium inhabitants. It is impossible to install the necessary equipment in them, and the fish themselves will be under constant stress from the light refracted due to the curved walls.
4. An aquarium volume of about 100 liters will allow you to keep closed ecosystem(the state of the water in temperature, chemical and biological ranges will be less subject to sudden changes, which will affect the well-being of the fish), and will also require less effort for maintenance.
5. Support constant temperature will save fish from many diseases.
6. You cannot overfeed your fish, but it is better to feed them once a day. The food should be varied - live, frozen, dry (if you feed it constantly dry, the fish may develop obesity and vitamin deficiency, which negatively affect reproductive function).
7. Water changes in the aquarium should be weekly, replacing up to 30% of the total volume. There is no need to clean and siphon the bottom in the first month after launch. Depending on the number of fish, bottom contamination or water chemical indicators, these activities should be carried out approximately once every two to four weeks.
8. The water filter and aerator in the aquarium should work around the clock.
9. Lighting must be controlled, otherwise excessive growth of algae or plants will begin, and the fish will be depressed. The duration of illumination per day ranges from 8 to 12 hours.

Experts from the “Cheap and Cheap” program (Channel One) will tell you how to choose an aquarium:

But, at some stage, the forum community realized that they needed teaching material for beginners. To make the conversation constructive, let's break the article into sections: 1. AQUARIUM FOR BEGINNERS: arrangement, launch, FAQ, Problems. 2. FISH AND PLANTS FOR BEGINNERS: what, what is needed, questions and problems. 3. NUANCES OF A YOUNG AQUARIUM: rules that will help avoid problems with the aquarium. AQUARIUM FOR BEGINNERS To create an aquarium world, you need not only the aquarium itself, but also related products. Many beginners make the mistake of buying only a minimal part necessary equipment. And then they start running around in a hurry in search of this or that product. Remember how Captain Vrungel said: “Whatever you call the ship, that’s how it will sail.” The first launch of the aquarium should be ideal - this will be the key to joy and pleasure from aquarium contemplation, leveling out possible problems and difficulties, and most importantly it will give you invaluable experience. In the future, you may miss something, be lazy... but not now! Aquarium decoration Which aquarium is better AQUARIUM GROUND SMALL AQUARIUM AQUARIUM FOR CHILDREN We hope that our video materials will be useful to you and encourage you to be creative! Liked? Subscribe to You Tube channel FanFishki! So you don't miss anything For convenience, as a reminder, we give a list of what a novice aquarist needs: Aquarium; Aeration, filtration; Heater, thermometer; Lighting, if not included; Hydrobions: fish, plants, mollusks, etc.; Food for intended fish; Equipment: net, siphon, aquarium silicone, sponges, buckets. Secondary - hoses, valves, windshield wipers, etc. Below are quick answers to the most frequently asked questions from novice aquarists. 1. Question: Is it possible to place an aquarium on furniture? To the kitchen? Bath and so on? Answer: Can. It is important that the surface of the furniture is durable and can withstand the weight of the aquarium with water, soil and decorations. The aquarium can be placed anywhere, as long as it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Cooking and bathing do not interfere with the life of fish in any way. 2. Question: After starting the aquarium, the water became cloudy - turned whitish? Answer: Nothing wrong with that. When you fill the aquarium with water for the first time, the biobalance of the reservoir has not yet been adjusted, this is enough long process. Primary processes of adaptation of aquarium water occur. The whiteness of the water will go away on its own in 3-7 days. These are colonies of saprophytic bacteria, you can find out more about this. 3. Question: What kind of water should I put in the aquarium? How often does it need to be replaced? Answer: You need to use water that has stood for at least a day. Yes, you can fill the aquarium with tap water, but rely on chance, because such water contains a lot of chlorine and chloramine, and excess air. Changing aquarium water is a purely individual matter and depends on the size of the aquarium, the number of fish and plants, and other factors. In general, it is common practice to change the water once a week. But, as a survey on our website shows, this is not a dogma. 4. Question: Is it possible to decorate an aquarium with figurines, shells, beads, etc. available in the house? Answer: Can. But, you must make sure that the material from which the decor is made is not soluble in water. The same shells are gradually dissolved in aquarium water, which increases, albeit slightly, the hardness of the aquarium water. It is better not to use painted or plastic items at all. Metal ones are prohibited. FISH AND PLANTS FOR BEGINNERS When giving advice on choosing fish for a novice aquarist, you can immediately get rid of it with the phrase: “Choose small, unpretentious fish, for example, from the poeciliaceae family - guppies, swordtails, platies, radishes, etc.” But who came up with the idea that you can’t immediately get large, beautiful fish - the same cichlases: severum, diamond or black stripe? If you take proper care of them, then there will be no problems. And if you don’t take care of the aquarium and let everything take its course, then the guppies may die in a week. The main criteria when choosing aquarium fish are your capabilities and desires. The opposite situation is with aquarium plants. It's not that simple. The key to successful plant maintenance is LIGHT + CO2 + MACRO AND MICRO FERTILIZERS. Their deficiency, as well as an excess, leads to the death or poor condition of plants. Unfortunately, the aquarium covers that come with the kit usually contain 15-18 Watt bulbs, the power of which is insufficient for the normal existence of aquarium plants. Therefore, before you start plants, you need to study everything and prepare in advance. The initial way out of this situation may be unpretentious, persistent aquarium plants that are not pretentious to the conditions of detention: anubias, some cryptocorynes, hornwort, vallisneria. Below is a list of other articles: The most important thing when choosing fish is their compatibility and the size of the aquarium. Don't chase quantity! Frequently asked questions from beginning aquarists regarding this section: 1. Question: Are the fish covered with white dots or tubercles? Answer: This is ichthyophthiriasis - “Semolina” of fish. It is treated with Tetra Contralk. More details here: ICHTHIOPHTHIRIOSIS. 2. Question: Fish are dying, why, what to do? "Popular types of aquarium fish" This brochure contains all the popular species of fish, with a description of their keeping conditions, compatibility, feeding + photos. NUANCES OF A YOUNG AQUARIUM rules that will help you avoid problems with your aquarium DO NOT TRUST PET STORE SELLERS. Unfortunately, their job is to sell you as much product as possible. Often the advice of sellers is incorrect and is aimed at only one thing - greedy enrichment at your expense. READ, STUDY, ASK QUESTIONS. Actually, this rule follows from the previous one - this is your weapon in the fight against lies. Your own opinion, based on the material you have studied, is the key to success not only in aquarium farming. Read several materials on a topic of interest for comparison and analysis. DON'T HURRY OR YOU WILL MAKE SURE. There is no need to rush, do everything thoroughly. You can't get ahead of time. Everything that is done in haste will soon fall apart. DO NOT OVERDO IT. Feed the fish once a day, do not rub the aquarium daily, and do not overcrowd the aquarium. STUDY AND USE AQUARIUM CHEMISTRY. This will give you the opportunity to quickly adjust the biobalance of the aquarium, keep the aquarium clean, and if your pets become ill, take timely action. VIDEO FOR BEGINNERS AQUARIUMISTS

It would seem that what is so difficult about caring for an aquarium? I fed the fish, and once a month I poured out the water, washed it with soap and boiled all the filling, poured it clean water. Everything sparkles for the first two days. Pisces are probably happy, but for some reason they don’t live long. Of course, we have described an extreme case of amateurish zeal, but let’s still look at the basic principles of caring for our small pond.

Being a real ecosystem, the aquarium is at the same time small in size and is an open system, and therefore unstable. Organic matter comes into it from the outside in the form of at least fish food, animals live in it, eat, grow, produce waste and reproduce, plants live in it, consuming some substances from the water and releasing others into it. Therefore, to maintain an artificial reservoir in the form in which it was intended - clean, bright, smelling of the freshness of a forest lake - some, sometimes significant, human efforts are required.

List of events

Caring for an aquarium usually takes 10-20 minutes daily and an additional hour and a half once a week.

Daily care procedures include:

• checking equipment operation;
• fish inspection;
• (this is a very broad question and a topic for a separate article).

During the launch of the aquarium or during some global changes in it, for example, when moving large quantity large fish, replacing the biofilter media or installing carbon dioxide supply equipment, it is also very advisable to test the aquarium water daily, checking the level of ammonia, nitrites, pH and other parameters.

Weekly events:

• water change;
• cleaning the soil from excrement, food residues and other waste, siphoning if necessary;
• cleaning glass from algae;
• washing the filter (not always, depending on its type);
• plant care (feeding, pruning).

Testing the water once a week for nitrogen compounds, phosphates, hardness and acidity is also very useful for monitoring the condition of the aquarium, but is not necessary for a stable and healthy tank.

Fish inspection and equipment check

It is most convenient to inspect fish during feeding, when even secretive ones swim out of their hiding places. You need to check if all the fish are in place and if they have changed appearance(are there any spots, sores, wounds, redness, etc.) and behavior (how active are they, do they willingly take food).

Equipment checks are usually done in the morning after the lamps are turned on. You need to make sure that the thermometer shows the required temperature, the light on the heater is on, the stream from the filter has the required strength, the aerator or compressor, if there is one, is working with the proper power, all lighting fixtures burn evenly and brightly.

If everything is in order, we feed the fish deliciously and enjoy our wonderfully beautiful and stable ecosystem until the day when it’s time to clean it.

How to properly clean an aquarium?

During cleaning, you must turn off electrical equipment. You can only leave the external canister filter on if its water intake hose is located low enough and remains below the water level. As for the internal filter, if the cleaning is routine and does not take a long time, it can be left in the aquarium when turned off. If the cleaning is large, general, with cleaning of all decorations, weeding and replanting of plants, draining a significant part of the water, the internal filter is placed in the drained aquarium water and turned on so that the colony of bacteria does not die.

Fish are usually not removed from the aquarium during cleaning.

First of all, start cleaning the glass. To do this, you can use various devices, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages:

1. A long-handled scraper with permanent or replaceable razor-type metal blades. A very effective product, however, it is not suitable for cleaning plexiglass aquariums as it can scratch them. When choosing such a scraper, you need to pay attention to the strength of the handle (if it is too flexible, you will not be able to press the glass with the required force and at the desired angle). In addition, the metal blade should not be longer than the plastic cover and should not stick out from the sides, since in this case, when cleaning near the corners, the silicone seams of the aquarium can be damaged.
2. A magnetic scraper is an extremely convenient thing when cleaning large and deep containers. Suitable for cleaning plexiglass. When choosing, you must take into account what thickness of glass the scraper is designed for, otherwise the power of the magnet may be insufficient, and the scraper simply will not be attracted. When using this device, you must be very careful when cleaning glass near the bottom so that no pebbles or grains of sand get between the scraper and the glass. They will leave deep and noticeable scratches on the glass.
3. An ordinary household sponge. Many aquarists use just these, but they are made from materials of varying hardness, and some are quite capable of leaving scratches on the aquarium glass, which are individually almost invisible, but over time they make the glass more and more cloudy.
4. An ordinary bank paper has proven itself to be an excellent scraper. a plastic card. It does not damage glass, and its only drawback is the absence of a handle and, accordingly, some inconvenience of use.

Green algae torn from the surface with a scraper, if there is not too much of it, can not be removed from the aquarium, but left in the water; fish usually eat them instantly and with great pleasure.

Some aquarists recommend not cleaning the back glass of the aquarium of algae, since it is, as a rule, almost completely hidden by decorations and plants, and the algae deposit usually does not spoil the external attractiveness of the reservoir, and slowly consumes nitrates and nitrites from the water. And if you start several, there will be no residue left on either the rear window or the viewing window.

Now that our glass is clean, it’s time for the soil.

How to clean the soil in an aquarium?

There is nothing complicated here. The soil is cleaned using a siphon - a hose with a funnel with a mesh attached. The latter is needed to avoid aquarium inhabitants from getting into the hose. Force siphons different models you can suck in water in different ways: some have a special bulb (in my opinion, this is the most convenient option), others need to be sharply raised and lowered several times (usually nothing happens), in others you need to suck in the water yourself with your mouth, risking it swallow.

There are different points of view on how often a siphon should be performed. Some hobbyists siphon weekly, believing that they thereby contribute to its purity, better supply of oxygen and prevent its decay. Others do this once a year or a year and a half, or even less, explaining this by the fact that with siphoning:

• plant roots are damaged;
• colonies of nitrifying bacteria living in upper layers soil;
• a suspension of organic matter and nitrates rises into the water, which is food for algae;
• and the sludge itself, removed by the siphon, is a valuable fertilizer.

In my opinion, weekly cleaning of the soil with a siphon is necessary in aquariums where there are no living plants or very few of them. In the same reservoirs that are densely planted with vegetation, including those with developed roots, this can be done less often - once every 3-4 months, and during scheduled Sunday cleaning, simply carry out a siphon 1-2 cm from the ground, without touching it, removing excess dirt from the surface, especially in fish feeding areas.

How to change the water in an aquarium?

The frequency and intensity of water changes depend on the biological load, that is, on the number, size and gluttony of the aquarium inhabitants, as well as on their requirements for water quality: it is clear that, for example, the concept of cleanliness is somewhat different.

Given the average population of the reservoir and the fastidiousness of its inhabitants, changes are usually carried out by a third, a quarter or a fifth of the volume every week. Ideally, to establish a replacement schedule, you need to test the water in the aquarium and determine the nitrate content in it. It should be at a level of no more than 10-30 mg/l. Accordingly, if the concentration of nitrates in the water is higher, then the water needs to be changed more often.

To carry out the change, it is necessary to prepare water with the same or very similar parameters (temperature, acidity) as in the aquarium. Most aquatic animals prefer water that has been standing for at least a day. If you can’t stand the water, you can use conditioners, for example, Tetra Aqua Safe or Dennerle Avera.

Part of the water from the aquarium is drained using a siphon or hose, the end of which should be placed near the bottom. In order to easily navigate how much water needs to be drained, it is convenient to make a level mark on the glass. Fresh water is poured in using a hose, ladle or other container, and the stream is directed not to the ground, which is thus easily washed away, but, for example, to the mainsail or a saucer placed on the bottom.

How to clean the filter in an aquarium?

An aquarium filter has several functions. The most important: it must retain particles of dirt and turbidity (dead organic matter, food residues, mineral turbidity from the substrate) and be a home for biofilter bacteria. The accumulated dirt during the cleaning process should be removed, while the bacterial colony should be left as intact as possible. It is these conditions that determine the rules for cleaning the filter.

The first question is: when is it time to clean the filter? This is easy to determine by the power of its jet. Having bought a new filter or having carried out its next general cleaning, notice or take a video of how powerful the stream is; this can be seen, for example, by the vibrations of nearby plants. If the stream weakens, it’s time to wash the filter.

Typically, internal sponge filters are washed once a week; the sponges of internal filters where there are compartments with porous fillers are also washed often (these compartments themselves do not need to be disturbed often!). External canister filters are cleaned less frequently, once every 6-10 weeks; in some models, the prefilter sponges - the part that performs preliminary mechanical filtration - are washed weekly.

In any case, the filter materials are carefully washed and rinsed in water drained from the aquarium to minimize damage to the colony of nitrifying bacteria. With the same water, using cotton swab or a toothbrush, the rotor head - the motor compartment of the filter - is washed and cleaned. After cleaning, the filter is placed in the aquarium as soon as possible and turned on.

How to tidy up plants?

Typically, plants are fed with fertilizers once a week if they need it. In addition, leaves overgrown with algae or eaten by fish and snails are removed, the tops that grow out of the water are trimmed, and overgrown bushes and grass can be trimmed or weeded out.

These are the basic rules for caring for an aquarium. Of course, sometimes situations arise when additional, more complex interventions and manipulations are required, but if you master these basic principles, you will gradually be able to easily master all other knowledge and skills.

Video lesson about proper care behind the aquarium:

The most common mistake among novice aquarists is their lack of information about the types of fish and the necessary conditions for keeping them. And it’s not at all uncommon when this is caused by a non-serious approach by the novice aquarists themselves. There’s really no need to go far, for example, when I started getting into aquarium farming, I didn’t really care what types of fish were in my aquarium, how many there were and at what temperature they should be kept.

The main thing for me was that the aquarium was alive, that is, filled with bright species of fish and this made it look beautiful, and over time, when most of the fish died and the aquarium became empty, I again went to the market for new fish. And this continued until I really became interested in aquarium keeping. This is not a very good start, which most likely turned out because my wife insisted on me getting aquarium fish, when at that time I simply abstained during the family vote.

Aquarium for fish

If you decide to get aquarium fish Special attention give it to the aquarium. Don't buy a small aquarium. In small aquariums the biological balance is unstable and at the slightest overfeeding the water begins to become cloudy. It is not uncommon for cloudy water to become rotten and become unsuitable for keeping fish in it, and the fish die.

Number and compatibility of fish

To keep them together, it is necessary to select fish according to their similar temperature and food preferences. When introducing fish into an aquarium, the recommended ratio of their number should correspond to 1 liter of water per 1 cm of fish length. However, when using active aeration and water filtration, the number of fish in the aquarium may be slightly higher.

Overpopulated aquarium

Do not put peaceful and aggressive animals, as well as large and small fish because small fish will sooner or later be eaten by large ones, and aggressive ones will keep peaceful fish at bay and not let them near the feeder. For example, when I sold black-striped cichlases, there were cases when buyers returned with an offer to exchange the purchased cichlases for some other fish. When buying fish, be sure to ask the seller whether these fish are peaceful or aggressive.

Aquarium soil

The soil in the aquarium can be used either artificially purchased or of natural origin, for example, flint or river pebbles with pebbles ranging in size from 3 to 10 mm. You need to know that the soil taken from the river in which the fish is found must be washed and boiled to avoid the transfer of various diseases.

Aquarium soil - river pebbles

This is done simply: the collected and sorted stones are thoroughly washed in cold water then boil for 15-20 minutes, wash again and place in the aquarium in a layer of 5-8 cm. There is no need to boil the soil in salt water or calcine it.

Aquarium plants

Since the new soil is still poor nutrients It is advisable to plant plants of unpretentious species in it. These can be: Vallisneria, Cryptocoryne aponogetonolifolia, Cryptocoryne yellow, etc. For rapid growth of aquarium plants, they need to be fertilized. Good result gives red clay. Before laying the soil, the bottom of the aquarium must be lined with a thin 1 cm layer of red clay, and the soil must be laid on top. Clay sprinkled with stones does not become agitated and does not come to the surface.

Aquarium plant - Vallisneria

Aquarium plant - Cryptocoryne aponoghetonolifolia

Aquarium plant - Cryptocoryne yellow

Aquarium equipment

In an aquarium, it is always better to use a mechanical filter instead of a compressor. The internal filter perfectly aerates the water and collects suspended particles from the water, thereby preventing the accumulation of silt in the ground. If you install the lighting yourself, then fluorescent lamps of the following brands are suitable as a lighting source: LB or LD.

Aquarium lamp with built-in fluorescent lamps

The LB brand is more preferable because it contains in its spectral composition of light more red rays needed by plants. In aquariums equipped with fluorescent lamps, the growth of aquarium plants is always at a satisfactory level.

Necessary aquarium supplies

Among the aquarium equipment and accessories you will also need: a heater, thermometers for measuring water temperature, feeders for dry and live food, a magnifying glass, tweezers, as well as a hose for draining water and separate nets for general and quarantine aquariums.

The most unpretentious aquarium fish for beginners

To the most unpretentious aquarium fish from the poeciliaceae family can be attributed guppy. It is necessary to clarify that there are also guppies of selected species, which, compared to the original form, are more likely to be gentle species. It is very easy to distinguish breeding guppies from ordinary ones. Selected guppies are usually more elegant, and the tail fin of males resembles a broom in shape.

Guppy fish - selection form

Omnivorous guppies are viviparous fish species and, when the necessary conditions are created for sheltering the fry, they very quickly replenish the aquarium population. Contents: water temperature 24-28° C, daylight for at least 8 hours, hydrochemical parameters usually do not matter.

Mollies An omnivorous, peaceful, viviparous fish, like guppies, belongs to the poeciliaceae family, but unlike guppies, it prefers warmer water. There are several selected species of mollies with modified color variations and fin shapes, for example, the famous “lyra” whose caudal fin has well-defined elongated outer rays.

Lyra-selected form of mollies

Molly fry, unlike guppies, are less hardy, so to breed these fish, fry must be raised in a separate aquarium. Contents: water temperature in the range of 26-28° C, daylight for at least 8 hours, hydrochemical parameters do not matter.

sword bearer peaceful, unpretentious viviparous fish. The swordtail, like mollies and guppies, belongs to the poeciliaceae family. There are several breeding species with modified fins and color variation, such as black swordtails.

Black swordtail - selection form

To breed swordtails, you need a small shaded aquarium for the females to give birth, as well as a nursery aquarium for the fry. Sometimes there are territorial fights among males, so for peace and quiet in the aquarium you need to keep no more than 2-3 males. Keeping conditions: water temperature 24-28° C, daylight for at least 8 hours, hydrochemical parameters usually do not matter.

Among the spawning fish, the fish is well known zebrafish. Zebrafish belong to the carp family. They are omnivores, unpretentious, hardy and are not afraid of low water temperatures. In the aquarium they prefer the middle and upper layers and are considered insectivores. There are several types of zebrafish, including selective ones, for example, veiled ones with beautiful elongated fins.

Aquarium fish zebrafish - selection species with veil fins

Although zebrafish are spawners, breeding them is quite simple, and an ordinary three-liter jar will do as a spawning tank. Housing conditions: water temperature in the range of 22-26° C, daylight hours of at least 8 hours, hydrochemical parameters are important only during the spawning period.

Fire barbs, like zebrafish, belong to the carp family. Peaceful, hardy, omnivorous spawning fish, which are very easy to breed just like zebrafish. There are selected species with modified color variation and elongated veil fins. Housing conditions: water temperature 24-26° C, daylight for at least 8 hours, hydrochemical parameters are important only during the spawning period.

Aquarium fish fire barbs - a selective species with veil fins

In fact, there are many types of aquarium fish that are perfect for keeping together. For example, fish: angelfish, ternets, corydoras catfish, cockroaches, ancistrus, medium-sized goldfish, etc. They are all peaceful and have similar conditions of detention; we need to comply with these conditions in order for our fish to live long, reproduce and not get sick.