How to treat soil in a greenhouse against late blight. Autumn soil treatment in a greenhouse: video. Methods for disinfecting a greenhouse against late blight

If crops on your site or in a greenhouse have already suffered from late blight, treatment in the fall in buildings with closed ground is mandatory. Measures can also be taken to prevent the development of this fungal disease.

Processing methods

Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse, which helps to get rid of, and in the future protect the crop from late blight, can be done using different techniques. Experienced summer residents who have already encountered this disease believe that autumn treatment is the most effective. All that remains is to choose the means and method of disinfection.

• Using chemical substances;
• Biological drugs;
• Temperature method;

It is good to treat the frame and other elements of the greenhouse using chemical components. It is better to expose the soil in the greenhouse high temperatures, biological products or use chemical elements.

Treatment of a greenhouse against late blight in the fall begins with the structures. To do this, you can use a sprayer or brushes with long bristles. Since late blight microspores are found almost everywhere, it should be special attention process corners, joints of parts and crevices. In the autumn, aggressive preparations for treating the greenhouse are permissible, because before planting tomatoes or other crops they will evaporate.

Laundry soap solution

Using this method is simple and safe. Of course soap solution It is impossible to defeat late blight 100%, but some of the microbes will die, and the structures will be dust-free and ready for further actions. To obtain a soap solution, you need to put a piece of laundry soap in a bucket of water and wait until it becomes limp, then mix everything thoroughly and begin processing. If you don’t have time to wait, you can grate the soap. When treating a greenhouse with this product, transparency is maintained.

Sulfur checkers

Before fumigating greenhouses with sulfur, it is necessary to treat all metal elements with grease, since sulfur vapors cause severe corrosion. Autumn treatment of greenhouses against late blight with sulfur is one of the most effective. The sulfur is placed on metal sheets and installed in different parts greenhouses away from wooden objects and structures. To make the substance ignite quickly, a little kerosene is dripped onto it. But the most convenient are sulfur bombs. When sulfur ignites, a gas is formed that can penetrate into the narrowest and most hidden places. As soon as the checker starts to burn, you must immediately leave the greenhouse, since the fumes released are dangerous to humans. Close the door and all existing openings tightly. The building can be opened in 3-4 days.

Copper sulfate

Copper sulfate can destroy any microorganisms. To obtain a working solution, use the following proportions: 100 g per 10 liters of water.

Bleaching powder

Treatment of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall against late blight is carried out using bleach. The solution is prepared from 400 grams of lime and 10 liters of water, all components are mixed and allowed to brew for four hours. Before treating a greenhouse with bleach, you must wear a mask and gloves. The remaining sediment can be used on wooden surfaces, including seedling boxes. After disinfection, you should not enter the greenhouse for two days.

Fungicidal agents

Summer residents often ask how to treat a greenhouse after late blight in the fall, to which experts answer different drugs fungicides. These include “Acrobat-MC”, “Profit”, “Fitosparin”, “Kartotsid” and others. It should be noted that these drugs are used to protect plants, and in the case of disinfection of a greenhouse, their concentration should be much higher.

The best option is to replace the soil layer. It is removed approximately 10-15 cm. The removed soil is not used for three years. The removed layer is replaced with humus or peat. Next, the beds are dug up. The downside of this time is the waste of a lot of time and effort.

Biological method

Help to defeat late blight microbes beneficial bacteria. A large number of their presence in the soil contributes to its healing. The most common products are “Baikal EM” and “Shine”. You can also use compost, nettle infusion, and manure. Planting oilseed radish or mustard as green manure also helps. All these means, with the help of beneficial microorganisms, make the soil alive and healthy.

Watering the soil with preparations

One of the widely used elements for soil disinfection is potassium permanganate. Before watering, the remains of vegetable crops and weeds are removed. To water the soil, prepare a solution of saturated Pink colour. Treatment with potassium permanganate is recommended to be repeated after 10 days. Work equipment can also be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes. If the soil is sufficiently moistened, then Fitosporin can be used as an option.

Thermal treatment

Phytophthora spores do not tolerate severe frosts and bright sun, so if possible, it is better to leave the greenhouse open for better freezing of the soil. Moreover, there is no need to remove polycarbonate sheets; open windows and doors will be enough.

Spilling boiling water on the soil also occurs; after this procedure, to enhance the effect, the soil is covered with cellophane film. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

When choosing a method of combating late blight, it is better not to rely on one thing, but to fight this disease comprehensively. Also, when processing, do not forget about racks, shelves, and garden tools. Today you learned how to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall against late blight. Surely our recommendations will help you get good harvests next year.

Everyone who grows crops on their plot knows what late blight is. The late blight fungus mercilessly affects almost all types of plants of the nightshade family, but does not disdain some others. Particularly favorable conditions for its development are in greenhouses and film shelters for growing plants. The problem of late blight under the film can persist from year to year! Now I’ll tell you in detail how to treat a greenhouse after late blight in the fall.

What is late blight or late blight

This plant disease is of a bacterial nature; late blight is a fungus that attacks leaves, stems, and ovaries. healthy plants. If the development of the disease is not stopped at the very beginning, it progresses, gradually infecting neighboring crops and spreading throughout the entire area. Death for plants it can occur very quickly if no measures are taken.

The most favorable conditions for the development of late blight are a warm, humid climate. Rainy summer is ideal for intensive growth of late blight mycelium and damage of large areas of seedlings. And in greenhouse conditions, the appearance and growth of fungus is simply inevitable, due to the constant release of condensation on the film and heat inside the shelter.

If you want to grow healthy seedlings and get high-quality fruits, a constant fight against late blight in the greenhouse is inevitable. There are several popular methods that allow you to neutralize the fungus completely or in significant quantities.

The best methods of struggle and popular remedies

The effectiveness of late blight destruction depends on the methodical nature of your actions and the careful implementation of a set of measures. There is little that can be solved here by treatment alone; it is important to take a multi-faceted approach to removing the disease from the greenhouse.
agricultural technology in a greenhouse

Autumn is the time to get the greenhouse in order after summer work. In order to confidently plant fresh seedlings in it in the spring, you need to perform a number of certain procedures to properly prepare the greenhouse for wintering. What do I need to do?

Chemical control methods

Chemical preparations used to treat the greenhouse structure and soil can reliably get rid of late blight.

The simplest disinfectant available to every gardener - soap solution.
Of course, one should not expect high efficiency from it, but it is quite capable of cleaning surfaces and preparing them for the application of more aggressive drugs. In addition, soap also has a disinfectant effect.

A more serious solution can be called copper sulfate.
It is diluted in approximately 100 grams per bucket of water and carefully treated all surfaces - greenhouse covering, supporting structures, doors, etc.

For greenhouses with a base made of wood, the best option would be treatment with bleach solution.
It must be prepared in advance; approximately 300-400 grams of lime must be diluted in a bucket clean water, stir well and leave for five to six hours. This solution can also be used to treat greenhouse surfaces and cover wooden frame(which will also protect it from tree pests). After disinfection with bleach, it is advisable to keep the greenhouse closed for two to three days for greater efficiency.

Well, and, of course, many gardeners are now using more modern methods fight against late blight. This fungicide treatment – systemic drugs, affecting nervous system pests, thereby neutralizing them.
Often used for disinfecting greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass. Fungicides must be used carefully, without oversaturating the soil with them, as they kill not only harmful, but also beneficial bacteria, which can lead to soil depletion.

Sulfur checker

Fumigation of a greenhouse room with a sulfur bomb - proven and sufficient effective remedy against late blight. This method is affordable and easy to implement. It is enough to set fire to a sulfur bomb inside the greenhouse, tightly close the doors and other existing cracks or openings. For complete processing, one day of exposure is enough.

The disadvantage of this method is that sulfur smoke, taking into account the moisture in the greenhouse room, forms chemical compound– acid, which negatively affects the metal parts of the structure. If there are any in the greenhouse, they need to be mandatory protect from harmful effects sulfur bomb. For example, generously lubricate with grease or other similar products.

A polycarbonate greenhouse has become an excellent assistant in growing vegetables, since thanks to it you can harvest the crop very early, at a time when the fruits are just beginning to ripen in the open ground. When purchasing such a greenhouse, you need to remember that you need to care not only for the seedlings grown inside, but also for the structure itself.

Stages of work

If you want to get a high-quality harvest next season, be sure to carry out processing both inside the structure and the soil in the fall.

The whole complex of work can be divided into several stages:

• cleaning and soil treatment
• processing of walls and frame
• strengthening the frame
• soil protection and fertilization
• disinfection: types.

Cleaning and soil treatment

First of all, remove all plant debris and weeds from the garden bed. Be sure to dig and shake the soil to get rid of the roots. If we are talking about a weed like wheatgrass, try to remove even fine particles roots, otherwise this weed will actively grow in the spring.

Be sure to collect all the larvae - only some of them will die when digging up the soil, and in most cases this is only a mole cricket. For example, the larvae of the cockchafer do not die at all under any circumstances in the ground - neither digging nor freezing is scary for them. There are cases where even treatment with boiling water did not harm the larvae of wireworms or May beetles. Ideally, you need to sift upper layer soil and collect all the larvae with your hands, and then burn them.

Treatment of walls and frame

First, inspect the polycarbonate, especially the joints - no matter how high-quality the fit is, there may still be particles of grass or foliage between the seams, on which microorganisms will further develop. A regular home vacuum cleaner will help you get rid of everything unnecessary.

If time permits, thoroughly wash the entire structure inside and out. A concentrated solution of laundry soap is suitable for this purpose - 1 piece, grated on a fine grater, per 2 liters of water. Let the solution sit for at least 30-60 minutes until the soap is completely dissolved.

Very good remedy is treatment with bleach, but after it stains remain on the walls.

Strengthening the frame

A mandatory stage in preparing the greenhouse for winter, as it will face significant snow loads.

To do this, strengthen the structure from the inside with special supports. The most optimal ones will be those made in the shape of the letter “T”. They should be placed in the greenhouse at the rate of 1 support per 2 sq.m. If the roof of the greenhouse is flat or we are talking about areas where precipitation in the form of snow usually falls heavily, you can increase the number of supports. In any case, if possible, remove snow from the roof so as not to subject the structure to unnecessary loads.

Soil disinfection

Among universal methods- treatment strong solution potassium permanganate. To do this, dig up the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, break up large lumps and thoroughly water them with the solution.

Use a watering can, not a spray bottle. The solution, supplied in the form of a fine dispersion, is not capable of destroying all bacteria and microorganisms.

Treatment with phytosporin

We have included the treatment of greenhouses with this preparation in a separate chapter due to the specific use and method of pest control.

Fitosporin cannot be used on the eve of winter - in severe frosts the bacteria die, which makes the drug virtually useless in the fight against pathogenic organisms.

Fitosporin - universal drug, which protects all crops without exception from various pests. This is an active bacterium Bacillis subtilis, which is located in the soil and actively fights all known pathogenic organisms. It is recommended to use it in the spring and several times during the summer (period life cycle 1 month) to avoid the development of pests. Additionally, photosporin is a type of organic fertilizer that is also extremely beneficial for the soil.

If you notice that the plant has already been attacked by pests and the fruits have begun to darken, phytosporin will be useless in this case. It is recommended to use chemicals.

Late blight treatment

The use of a sulfur bomb, which was described earlier, is suitable if late blight was found in small quantities. If it was not there, you can use boiling water as a preventative measure. Dig up the soil and fill the beds with boiling water.

In this situation, using a sulfur bomb (see above) or using chemicals.

Among the most popular are the following:

• Actellik - applied at the moment the pest is detected. Diluted at the rate of 1 ampoule per liter of water, this is enough to treat 5 sq.m.

• Verticillin F - used for prevention and control. It is recommended to apply twice at weekly intervals.

• Confidor - for prevention. Can be used once.

• Mospilan - for prevention. Can be used once.

• Pegasus - for the prevention and control of pests. Apply twice at weekly intervals.

• Fufanon - for the prevention and control of pests. Can be used once.

Spider mite treatment

• digging up the soil;
• treating the greenhouse frame with a bleach solution;
• sulfur bomb.

In general, these measures are quite sufficient, but control treatment with acaricides can also be done.

Soil protection and fertilization

When cleaning the greenhouse, we must not forget about the soil where new plants will be planted in the spring. It should be prepared for planting in advance and be sure to fertilize it. When the soil inside the greenhouse is dug up and compost (sawdust, peat and manure) is added, it should additionally be protected from severe freezing by pouring a layer of hay on top. If there is snow outside, it is recommended that they also cover the soil in the greenhouse. An excellent solution would be to cover the soil from freezing with a special material, in which case you can start planting as soon as the sun warms up and the snow melts. If necessary, the greenhouse can be treated in the same way in the spring, using Bordeaux mixture.

Cover the soil with snow several times during the winter (no more than 3). You can even combine 2 in 1 - clean the roof and cover the beds. The soil moistened in this way in the spring will be ready for planting even without preliminary preparation.

Late blight is dangerous fungal disease plants, it spreads quickly and destroys the entire crop. If you find this scourge in your greenhouses in the summer, then you need to make efforts to get rid of fungal spores. Otherwise, new seedlings will be affected again in the spring. Popular about health will tell you how to treat a greenhouse after late blight in the fall.

Why treat the greenhouse space in the fall after late blight??

It would seem that the cold of winter itself will do all the work. But, in fact, the spores of the fungus that causes this plant disease persist throughout the winter in the greenhouse. They do not die, as many people think. Inside greenhouses there are optimal conditions for fungal spores - even in winter it is more or less warm and humid. Phytophthora actively reproduces at temperatures above +12 degrees and at air humidity within 70 percent.

Even if all plant remains are removed from the greenhouse, the spores will remain in the soil. As soon as you plant new seedlings, the disease will immediately attack the plants and deprive you of the right to enjoy a wonderful harvest. That is why it is necessary to disinfect the greenhouse if late blight has been noticed in it. How to do it?

Methods for disinfecting a greenhouse against late blight

Treating a greenhouse against late blight in the fall includes several aspects. Firstly, this is cleaning the greenhouse. Before you start processing the internal space, you need to collect all the tops, remains of fruits, plants, leaves - take it outside the site and immediately burn it. After eliminating the sources of infection, you can begin autumn treatment of the greenhouse against late blight.

All disinfection work can be divided into three types of exposure to fungus:

1. Chemical.

2. Thermal.

3. Biological.

Each of them is effective, but it still makes sense to combine several methods of treating greenhouses against late blight.

Chemical disinfection

The following preparations and solutions are used for chemical disinfection of soil:

1. Potassium permanganate solution. It is prepared by dissolving 1 gram of granules in a ten-liter bucket of water. Ready-made product irrigate the soil and wipe the walls of the greenhouse from the inside.

2. Copper sulfate. A solution for watering the soil is prepared by dissolving 5 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water.

3. Laundry soap also helps to some extent cope with the enemy, but you should not rely on this method alone. Although, you can still wash the inside of the glass or film with the frame with soapy water. Dissolve the crushed laundry soap(100 grams) in 10 liters of water and treat the greenhouse, paying attention to profile joints and cracks.

4. One more treacherous enemy late blight - accessible to everyone bleaching powder. Its solution is used to treat the walls and frame of the greenhouse. Dilute it according to the instructions in a bucket of water and let it brew.

5. Sulfur bombs have proven themselves in the fight against pathogenic microorganisms, mushrooms and even pests. To disinfect the greenhouse and certainly destroy the enemy, you need to take 150 grams sulfur bombs for every cubic meter of space. The substance is set on fire and the greenhouse inside is fumigated, closing it tightly. A person should not go inside for at least 48 hours. After this, it is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse.

6. The drug Fitosporin will help completely get rid of fungal infection. It is necessary to carry out several soil treatments.

Disinfection using high or low temperature

If you are not a fan of chemicals, you may prefer more safe methods combating late blight in a greenhouse in the fall. The soil that is infected with the fungus must be replaced completely or partially, removing the top layer 10-12 centimeters thick. If this is not possible for any reason, then try pouring boiling water on the soil. Immediately after the procedure, cover the soil with a thick film. Carry out this disinfection three times every 3 days.

Exposure to frosty air also helps fight late blight. In winter, when severe frosts begin, open the greenhouse and leave it there for several days so that the soil freezes well. However, not everyone trusts such methods of processing greenhouses. Many gardeners prefer to fight fungal infections in a more effective way.

Biological treatment of the greenhouse in autumn

Biological disinfection means the colonization of microorganisms in the soil that have a detrimental effect on late blight and other infections. There are preparations on sale that contain such microorganisms, for example, “Shine” or “Baikal EM-1”.

Treatment after late blight - step-by-step instructions

1. Remove all plant debris and burn it.

2. Wash internal walls greenhouse with soapy water.

3. Treat the structure with a bleach solution.

4. If soil remains in the greenhouse, water it copper sulfate, according to instructions.

5. Use a sulfur bomb for fumigation.

6. Ventilate the greenhouse.

7. In winter, open it during severe frosts for several days.

Late blight, although dangerous disease plants, but you can still fight it. You will also be able to defeat him if you follow the instructions. The main thing is not to leave the infection a chance; it is better to use several methods of control at once to ensure that late blight is eliminated.

Greenhouses and greenhouses have long enjoyed well-deserved respect among gardeners. Maintaining a microclimate favorable for growing plants in such structures is not difficult. IN Lately The popularity of such structures has increased even more thanks to the use of polycarbonate. With its excellent characteristics, this material transformed the greenhouse from a purely functional structure into the category of elements landscape design, which is not dismantled in warm weather. However, with all their undeniable advantages, in some situations greenhouses turn into a breeding ground for various diseases, since they create favorable conditions not only for the development of plants, but also for the reproduction of various pathogens. One of them is the notorious late blight.

Determining whether plants are infected with late blight is quite simple. This disease mainly affects nightshade crops, so you should look for signs of its manifestation when examining tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes and physalis planted in a greenhouse. However, strawberries can also be attacked by the pest. Late blight begins with the appearance of dark gray-brown spots on the leaves of plants. At high air humidity back side a fluffy coating forms on the leaf blades white. Then dark spots appear on the stems.

The affected leaves dry out, the flower stalks also dry out and the inflorescences turn black. The fruits of diseased plants are covered with brownish-brown spots that are hard to the touch, which grow over the surface and in depth, and then soften and begin to rot. On infected tubers, grayish areas with wrinkled skin appear, under which, when cut, “tongues” of reddish pathogen-affected tissue can be seen extending deeper. It is not for nothing that late blight is also known as brown rot or potato rot. Tubers and ripening green fruits affected by it, which are normal at first glance, become inedible even after harvesting, and diseased plants often die. In the middle of the 19th century, an outbreak of this disease affected almost the entire potato crop in Ireland, causing famine and mass immigration in the country.

What causes late blight?

The causative agent of the disease is oomycetes, which have long been considered among fungi, and today are classified as a separate group of special mycelial organisms. Late blight spends most of its time in the form of spores and only when favorable conditions begins to actively reproduce. The most “favorite” combination of late blight is high humidity and air heated to +25 – +30 °C in a greenhouse often occurs. Under these conditions, spores can germinate and infect a plant in just an hour. A sharp fluctuation in temperature throughout the day, when a rather hot day is replaced by a cool night, causes heavy dew to fall and fog to form. This is a favorable period for late blight activity.

Unlike polycarbonate structures, greenhouses with film cover are more susceptible to disease outbreaks, since temperature changes by inside film, abundant condensation forms. Phytophthora spores are washed away when watering into the soil, where they can survive even severe frosts. So the disease can appear in the greenhouse along with the soil. Disputes persist long time and in the remains of infected plants, so they should certainly be removed beyond its boundaries and burned. Even improperly processed equipment can become a carrier of the disease.. Spores are carried over long distances of tens of kilometers by the wind. So the pest can enter the greenhouse, which is located quite far from the source of the disease. Also, late blight can penetrate along with seedlings purchased on the market, since a visually excellent-looking plant does not guarantee that it is not a carrier of the disease in incubation period.

We treat plants

To date, there is no such remedy, the use of which would completely get rid of late blight. Since it remains in a state of spores for most of its life cycle, it is not completely destroyed by either chemical or biological preparations. However, their use together with some other methods leads to a significant reduction in the number of spores and inhibition of pest activity. That is, the fight against late blight largely consists not in treating diseased plants, but in preventing infection. Since spores can be found almost everywhere, in the spring the greenhouse should be fumigated with special sulfur smoke bombs. Also, walls and ceilings can be treated with microbiological preparations such as Fitosporin-M, Siyanie or Baikal EM.

Unlike chemical fungicides, these products destroy pests due to the colonies of living microorganisms they contain, for which late blight spores are food. When it is detected in a greenhouse, it is necessary to combat the disease by removing and burning affected leaves and other parts of plants. After this, foliar spraying of all nightshade crops should be carried out with the mentioned microbiological preparations or fungicides containing copper: copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture, Barrier, Oksikhom, Ordan and others. Regular preventive treatment of plants is also carried out with these substances. Seedlings should be thoroughly sprayed before planting in the greenhouse soil, and then done again after two weeks.

It should be remembered that after using chemicals, vegetables can be eaten no earlier than three weeks after the last spraying. Among folk remedies It is popular to treat nightshade plants planted in a greenhouse with garlic infusion, which is prepared by adding 40 grams of chopped garlic to a bucket of water and infusing for 24 hours. In this case, the plant is sprayed weekly. Since the development of the pest practically stops at air temperatures above +30 °C, you can fight it by periodically arranging a steam room, closing all doors and windows for several hours on a sunny day, and then ventilate the greenhouse well. Since excess moisture promotes the active proliferation of late blight, plants should be watered only at the root. But using underground irrigation or mulching the soil with polyethylene in a greenhouse is extremely undesirable.

Unlike open ground, in a greenhouse it is quite rare to avoid close proximity of plants when planting. This contributes to the rapid infection of all nightshade crops by late blight. Therefore, if, due to the size of the greenhouse, it is necessary to use thickened planting schemes, then it is necessary to form the plants into one stem. Since the disease most often affects old leaves, protective treatment consists of removing them during regular inspection of plantings.

A good way to protect plants from late blight is a nightshade crop rotation, in which they are planted in the same greenhouse in the spring at intervals of three to four years. Also quite effective method Infection can be avoided by growing hybrids that are especially resistant to infection or early ripening varieties, the harvest of which ripens before the period of pest activity begins. Seeds for planting in a greenhouse should be purchased from those manufacturers who carry out their pre-treatment against pests and diseases.

How to treat the soil

Since late blight in a greenhouse persists mainly in the soil, the main fight against it is carried out precisely on this “battlefield”. The main thing in this case is to choose a way to treat the soil in such a way as to most effectively suppress the source of infection, that is, destroy as many spores as possible.

A lack of copper salts in the soil contributes to the long-term preservation of pathogen spores, therefore, if infected plants are detected in the fall after harvesting, the top layer of soil about 5 centimeters thick is removed from the greenhouse, and in the spring the soil should be treated with a copper-containing fungicide or microbiological preparation.

The introduction of chemicals into the soil (Ordan, Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture, etc.) requires refraining from using vegetables for food for a month after their application, but with microbiological preparations (Fitosporin-M, Mikosan, Siyanie, Baikal EM, etc. .) the soil can be cultivated at any time. You should not use them only during the flowering period, when this can harm bees flying into the greenhouse for nectar.

Video “Processing greenhouses with your own hands”

If you want to know how and with what means you should treat greenhouses against late blight, then watch this video.