What are the signs that peppers lack? Why peppers do not grow in an open ground greenhouse after planting and what needs to be done. Black leg on pepper plants

Margarita Turkina answers questions from gardening readers

My peppers are kind of sad this year. Planted in a regular greenhouse. I fed her with infusion of grass, ash, and purchased potassium fertilizer - no effect. There are almost no flowers, no fruits either, the bushes are not very green, but certainly not yellow either. Moreover, on some varieties that I have been planting for many years (“Morozko”, “Bogatyr”), everything is fine. But the two new varieties, “Big Mama” and “Big Daddy,” are clearly missing something. I really like the Big Daddy variety. The colored peppers immediately grow, it’s very interesting; in other varieties they are usually green at first, but these ones immediately pop out purple. What can cheer them up?

Elena Fominskaya, Sosnovo

Want to know what your peppers are missing? Before applying fertilizers, based on the condition of the plants, you need to determine which substances are insufficient in the soil:

Nitrogen - the leaves are small, pale green, turn yellow, and fall off early.
Phosphorus - leaves are dark green or bluish, with a red tint, drying, almost black.
Potassium - the edges of the leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die, curl downwards, the leaves are wrinkled.

Calcium - apical buds and roots are damaged and die.
Magnesium - leaves lighten, acquire a yellow color and a red or purple color at the edges and between the veins.
Iron - the leaves are pale green, the tissues do not die, lightening appears between the veins - chlorosis.
Copper - the tips of the leaves turn pale, chlorosis appears.
Boron - apical buds and roots die, flowering does not occur, leaves fall off.

Inorganic phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied in the fall, nitrogen fertilizers in the spring.

In your case, apparently, it’s not a matter of adequate nutrition. For pepper, the most important limiting factor for its prosperous life is the optimal and uninterrupted supply of moisture, especially in early period. Otherwise, the plant sheds flowers and ovaries. But under no circumstances should you overwater the peppers; the air in the roots is more important to them than the presence of “food” there. That’s why the bed should be moisture-absorbing and at the same time breathable, and mulched on top. In addition, you need to water it with warm water 1-2 times a week. After watering cold water the plants “freeze” for a week or two, growth stops, and the ovaries fall off.

Well, you can “invigorate” the plants in the following way: make an infusion of banana skins, ash and nettles. Take 1 cup of ash per bucket of water, brew it with a liter of boiling water, add up to 10 liters of water, and add the remaining ingredients as desired and possible. The container is tied with film and left for 2-4 days in the shade, after which it is added to water for irrigation (half a liter per watering can). Peppers respond very well to this feeding. You can speed up the effect of fertilizing by spraying the plants on the leaves with an infusion of banana peels alone: ​​put the peels of 2-3 bananas in a liter jar, pour clean water and leave for 3 days. Then add water up to 1.5 liters, filter and spray the plants in the morning.

I'm having difficulty figuring out how to properly shape my peppers. Is it necessary to pinch the crown bud? Where is this crown bud located? My main trunk forked, in this place there were one or three flowers, and further along the trunks there were also ovaries. Tell me what to do. And what is the threat if the crown bud is left?

Katya Lebedeva, young vegetable grower.

A crown bud or crown flower is one or sometimes several flower ovaries formed in the first fork that appears on the stem when the first two branches are formed on the plant. This bud or buds must be removed, and the sooner the better. The main crop of fruits from the ovaries located above the fork will receive additional nutrition. In addition, the plants will be better lit. Do not chase a huge number of peppers on the bush, and try to thin out the entire crown of the plants from the extra shoots that grow inside the bush. A good harvest of peppers requires a lot of light and moisture.

Most gardeners wonder: why don’t peppers grow in a greenhouse? It is necessary that the approach to cultivation be competent - only compliance of this rule will help you get a high yield. The salad vegetable is often found in gardens, but not every gardener can boast of good success in growing it. Why doesn't pepper grow and what can be done about it?

When planting and growing this vegetable, a person may encounter a number of certain difficulties.

The problem is the seedlings

Pepper seedlings do not grow, most likely due to bad seeds. This appears on weak stems. In any case, germination must be checked. If planting material It seems puny, despite all efforts, the pepper will never be able to grow.

If you plant seedlings without first germinating them, they may die without ever sprouting. The seeds of this vegetable initially germinate poorly.

Often the problem lies in failure to comply with the required temperature conditions: even if the seeds have sprouted, they may soon dry out because they are too hot. The greenhouse must be created in such a way that it can be ventilated.

Landing time

Pepper seedlings do not grow for other reasons. The reason for this may be wrong time landings. If the buds are not laid on time, then the pepper will not bloom, and as a result, the ovary will not appear. This suggests that the wrong timing was chosen before landing.

Pepper seedlings grow poorly if the timing is incorrect. Planting too early open ground affects the harvest. Moreover, the fruits appear quite late.

Effect of fertilizers

If summer residents are faced with the fact that the seedlings have stopped growing, the question of feeding arises. The absence of an ovary depends on this.

Overfeeding is not good for vegetables. First of all, this concerns excessive large quantity nitrogen fertilizers. A lack of potassium and phosphorus contributes to poor plant development.

The soil

Why do seedlings wither and all the seedlings in the greenhouse grow poorly? The problem may lie in the soil itself. For a good harvest, the soil must be loose and nutritious. Soil mixtures purchased in advance - The best decision this problem. Seedlings may be in this state because people have deeply buried them in the soil, which affects their growth.

Nuances when growing vegetables in greenhouse conditions

Only pepper seedlings will guarantee that growing vegetables in the ground will give good results. It is best to plant vegetables in the place where cucumbers, carrots, onions or cabbage were previously grown. The soil on which potatoes or tomatoes were previously grown will not produce satisfactory results. It is worth planting the plant in places where their closest relatives used to grow.

Despite the fact that the vegetables are planted in a greenhouse, it is necessary to create the most comfortable conditions. This will help grow good harvest. When transplanting peppers, it is necessary to disinfect the soil. To do this, use a solution of copper sulfate.

It is possible to grow a good harvest in a greenhouse only if the seedlings are planted in May. In case of bad weather conditions, this period should be postponed to the beginning of the season. After picking, the sprouts adapt perfectly to the conditions in the greenhouse. Other factors are also taken into account.

It's important to understand

Between representatives different varieties there must be a distance. Plants need protection from self-pollination. There are different ways to get out of this situation. For example, use a natural wall - this could be planting corn.

Greenhouse and open ground

The vegetable being grown must be planted in such a way as to prevent damage to the root system, regardless of whether it is a greenhouse or an outdoor garden. The bed must be at a height, which will ensure a good harvest.

Good weather has no effect on the growth of pepper in open ground. It takes quite a long time for the fruits to ripen, and as a result the peppers turn out small and not so juicy.

There are not enough peppers in greenhouses special care. The vegetable must be carefully looked after in open ground. When the soil is protected, it is easier to provide systematic feeding to the crop. With abundant watering, the bushes grow well in height.

First thing to do

Pepper grows poorly only in the absence proper prevention crop diseases. If this action is lacking, the development of vegetables occurs very poorly. At first they wither, and soon they die completely.

The main rules for caring for a plant:

1. Seedlings must be watered. Feeding is also needed. For bell pepper you can use potassium, saltpeter, a mixture of superphosphate or nettle tincture. Feeding begins only after the first couple of leaves have grown on the sprout. After the start of fertilizing, fertilizing only increases.
2. It is necessary to carry out pinching from time to time, removing the lateral shoots of the vegetable. However, every person should know that it is not recommended to carry out the procedure in the cold season. At this time, bell peppers grow poorly. Since the vegetable practically does not tolerate this operation, the pepper seedlings disappear immediately.
3. What to do with the appearance of additional sprouts on the pepper? Gardeners should be aware that they need to be removed, as the shoots not only slow down the growth of the crop, but also create unwanted shade.
4. If a woman has grown peppers before, she should know that as soon as the bush is tall enough, it needs to be tied up. This will protect the vegetable from falling and at the same time the correct shape will be formed.
5. A good harvest from peppers does not only depend on watering and fertilizers. You should also remember about insects. To pollinate, they must be regularly introduced into the greenhouse, whether growing peppers at home or on a large farm. Effective method– spray the bushes with a sweet solution.

Nuances with feeding

There may be a lot of answers to the question why bell peppers don’t grow. One of them is improper feeding. It is necessary to use nitrogen or phosphorus in this matter. Phosphorus will not allow the plant to stop growing and will strengthen the root system.

Thanks to nitrogen, the green mass will be built in the right direction, which will only benefit the farmer. Greenhouse pepper Do not fertilize with manure, as fertilizer can burn the roots. It is better to use ash or a weak nettle solution. The plant does not like frequent feeding, so it should be introduced very carefully, observing the further behavior of the crop.

Nutrient Ratio Calculation

Why do peppers wither in a greenhouse? First of all, they need feeding much more than when they are in the open ground. Peppers need timely application nutrients. This is necessary so that the harvest does not go to waste. Minimum doses not only promote normal growth, but also increase the yield by 2 or 3 times.

Why don't seedlings grow at certain stages of cultivation? There are a few rules to remember. The growing season should be saturated with fertilizers:

• nitrogen prevents plants from drying out and affects the growth and ripening of fruits;
• with the help of calcium, the correct formation of peppers and their further ripening occurs;
• phosphorus is responsible for fruiting;
• The plant is grafted using potassium.

A few words about picking

The reason why seedlings do not grow can be quite difficult to identify. Perhaps the whole problem is in the picking. Why do seedlings grow poorly after this procedure? It must be carried out exclusively in the warm season, otherwise, due to the fact that the fruits do not have time to ripen, gardeners may lose half of their harvest.

Those who insist: “Make a pick” if the plant is weak are mistaken. It is impossible to revive culture in this way. When picking, there is a possibility of damaging the roots, so you should not destroy an already weak plant.

Correct lighting

Why can't peppers grow in a greenhouse after planting? This phenomenon may be a consequence of poor lighting. Fortunately, this can be solved with the help of additional lighting. Special fluorescent lamps will fill the greenhouse with light and change the seedlings beyond recognition.

The question of why seedlings do not grow or take root poorly can be easily answered by simply analyzing the methods of caring for them. If everything is done correctly, the gardener will soon receive a large harvest of juicy and tasty vegetables.

Growing peppers in a greenhouse is not easy, and for many beginning gardeners it seems completely impossible. In fact, peppers are not that fancy. You can reap a rich crop harvest after studying certain recommendations and following all the rules.

Growing vegetables in protected soil is carried out only through seedlings. The process will be more successful if you plant peppers in soil where cabbage, cucumbers, onions or carrots previously grew. At the same time, if peppers grow in place of potatoes or tomatoes, then this procedure will not bring much benefit. It is also undesirable to grow a crop in the same area where its closest relatives previously grew.

Caring for pepper in a greenhouse involves creating optimal growth and development conditions for the vegetable, as well as preparing the soil for it. Before planting seedlings, the soil must be disinfected, for example, copper sulfate(1 tbsp per 10 liters of heated water).

Young peppers should be planted in a properly prepared greenhouse in May. If severe weather conditions are expected, it is best to start growing the crop early in the season. This is how the sprouts adapt to coolness and other factors controlled in the greenhouse.

Peppers of one variety should be grown at a distance from another. Plants need protection from self-pollination. For this purpose, it is better to use a natural wall, for example, a corn wall.

Planting vegetables, both in open and protected ground, should be carried out in such a way as to prevent damage to the root. It is better to make high beds, which will ensure large volumes of harvest in the future. Why? In low beds, sprouts can freeze completely and die. It is worth noting that a significant harvest can only be harvested in a greenhouse.

In open ground, pepper does not grow well even in good weather. The fruits take a long time to ripen, are small in size and lose their juiciness.

In a greenhouse, peppers need basic care, while in open ground they need more careful care. In protected soil conditions, it is enough for the crop to provide systematic fertilizing, abundant watering and controlled growth conditions.

Peppers grow well only under conditions of proper prevention of crop diseases. Otherwise, vegetables develop poorly: they wither and then die. Proper care for culture provides:

1. Watering the sprouts with both water and fertilizing. You can use an infusion of nettle or a mixture of superphosphate, potassium and nitrate. Feeding should begin with the appearance of the first leaves on the plants. After the first fertilizers, fertilizing needs to be increased over time.
2. Periodically carry out pinching, removing the lateral shoots of the vegetable. But the procedure is applicable only in hot conditions. In cool weather, pinching is not worth it, as the plant will not tolerate this operation well and will wither. In addition, the peppers are deprived of their natural protection.
3. It is necessary to prune additional stems, as they inhibit the growth of the crop and create shade for it.
4. After planting in the ground, when the pepper becomes tall enough, it will need to be tied up. This will prevent the plant from falling from its own weight and will ensure the correct formation of the bush.
5. In order for the pepper to be properly pollinated, insects need to be lured into the greenhouse. It is better to do this by spraying the bushes with sweet solutions.

Possible causes of poor growth

Often, peppers grown in a greenhouse slow down their growth and development. The bushes look healthy and do not wither, but they do not grow either.

Most likely, this phenomenon is caused by unfavorable conditions for the vegetable in the greenhouse. After all, at least one component of care is broken - the pepper stops growing.

Non-compliance with standards may include:

1. The seedlings do not grow due to planting them in cold, unprepared soil. Therefore, tilling the soil in a greenhouse and meeting all deadlines is an integral part of growing vegetables.
2. Peppers grow and develop poorly in conditions where the soil lacks the necessary substances - nitrogen and phosphorus. Therefore, the land needs to be fed.
3. The air in the greenhouse should be heated to 28°, at night - to at least 10°. If this condition is not met, the vegetables wither. Disturbances in the development of culture can be caused by “jumps” in temperature. Gardeners need to gradually increase and decrease the temperature.
4. Peppers should be watered only with heated water. Since the roots of the plant are “afraid” of hypothermia. The procedure should be carried out in the morning, at the same time. Unlike growing vegetables in open ground, in protected ground it is worth frequent ventilation during the day to avoid condensation.
5. Failure to carry out pinching in time will cause a slowdown in the growth and development of the plant. Why? Because the stepsons will “draw” all the nutrients from the soil onto themselves.
6. Is the root not getting enough air? As a result, vegetables grow more slowly. Therefore, the soil around the bushes must be loosened periodically.
7. Due to poor ventilation, plants are sickly and lethargic, they weaken and lose their elasticity.
8. After planting the plants, it is necessary to provide them with sufficient lighting. If this is not done, the seedlings will stop growing.

The reasons for the inhibition of pepper growth are easy to determine independently, even by appearance bushes. Everything can be corrected and thus save the plants and the future harvest.

Video “Pepper. Why doesn’t the ovary bloom or crumble?”

How to deal with it

After transplanting seedlings into the soil, they may not develop properly due to inappropriate weather conditions. Negative influence even renders night temperature below 12°.

As a result, the pepper loses healthy looking, sheds color and buds. To save plants, just like in open ground, they need to be sprayed with Immunocytophyte, systematically watered and not grown in open form: cover with film or cellophane.

If there is a high probability of frost, you can sprinkle the plants with ash and water them in sufficient quantities. Plants should not be left open. It is necessary to cover the bushes with earth and cover them with cellophane or film, newspapers, cellophane. This recommendation applies both to cultivation in protected ground and in open ground.

You can also protect the bushes with sprinklers that provide drip irrigation. Why? Evaporation from water will increase the temperature under the film by several degrees.

Do green plants have weak roots after planting seedlings? They need to be watered with Kornevin 7-14 days after replanting. Nitrophoska can be added to the watering mixture. The substance will improve the condition of the seedlings. Why? Because nitrogen is one of the main components of the plant body.

So, it’s easy to understand the reasons for the poor growth of peppers in greenhouse conditions. The first signs can be detected immediately after planting the seedlings. You can save plants by carrying out basic procedures. The main thing is not to hesitate and act quickly.

Video “The best covering for peppers, eggplants and tomatoes”

The video explains how best to cover plants. Peppers under such cover develop well and produce an excellent harvest.

It is impossible to imagine a full-fledged garden without bell pepper. This vegetable has a distinct taste that many people like and contains many healthy microelements and vitamins.

Pepper diseases: photos, description, treatment

Diseases of this crop are especially frequent in cool, rainy summers. What ailments are these plants prone to and how to deal with them in our article.

Diseases of sweet peppers in a greenhouse, like diseases of peppers in open ground, are caused by for various reasons– fungi inhabiting the soil, viruses, the result of the life activity of pests.

Pepper mosaic disease

It got its name because the pepper leaves, when deformed, become covered with many light yellowish spots. In this case, preventive procedures are effective: disinfection of seeds before planting seedlings; once every 10 days of planting, spray with milk dissolved in 10 parts of water. If the plant is sick, it will have to be removed.

Black bacterial spot of pepper

The entire bush suffers; first, the leaves form small dots. As they grow larger, they darken and a yellow edging appears along their edges. The fruits become lumpy and rough, spots on their skin become transparent, and eventually turn into ulcers. The leaves fall and the plant dies. Only prevention helps fight the disease. When signs of it appear in the greenhouse, the soil is disinfected or completely replaced.

Brown spot or cladosporiosis of pepper

The movement of infection begins from below and gradually affects all parts of the plant. It first appears on the leaves on the underside, forming light spots, then they turn brown and are covered in plaque. Soon signs appear on their surface from above. The ovary falls off and the plant dies. Spot is afraid of garlic infusion, so spraying is allowed for preventive purposes. At the first symptoms, it is necessary to treat the plantings with copper sulfate in a 2% concentration.

Bacterial canker of bell pepper

A common disease, its provoking factors - high temperatures and high humidity in greenhouses, thickened plantings. Brown blemishes appear on those parts of the bush where bacteria have settled; dark spots, growing, turn into ulcers. Diseased plants should be removed and destroyed. Healthy bushes are treated with preparations containing copper.

Bronzing

Otherwise known as spotted wilt, it is carried by sucking insects, often thrips. In an infected plant, the leaves take on a grayish-purple or bronze color; later, necrotic areas appear along the main vein in the form of brown spots. The leaf petioles and their young shoots suffer, top part dies. Round spots of green, yellow or Brown. To save the plant, all healthy fruits are removed and watering is stopped. The drug “Fundazol” copes well with the disease.

At the beginning of the disease, dark brownish spots form on the lower leaves, then they move upward, and later, if the fruits are damaged, they also come under the influence of the fungus. Watery areas appear on the peppers; in damp weather they grow and merge, and white fluff appears on them. Over time, it darkens and becomes black. Sometimes only a small spot forms on the pepper, but the inside is completely damaged by infection. The bushes are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or preparations with copper.

Black leg on pepper plants

Seedlings usually suffer, appear when there is a lack of light and heat, and also contribute to their development sharp drop temperatures, excessive dampness. It affects the lower part of the stem: the leg near the root darkens, rots, and the plant dries out. To save the remains of seedlings, you need to stop watering, create favorable conditions. The drug “Zaslon” is effective in the fight against fungus.

Pepper blight

Favorable conditions for the development of fungus are dampness and cold night temperatures. Appears on the stem dark spots, brownish dense formations move to the leaves, and soon they can be seen on the fruits. If the disease has already manifested itself, spraying is carried out with the preparations “Zaslon” and “Barrier”. You can also add “Oxychom” to them; use it before flowering begins.

Sweet pepper blossom end rot

When there is too little moisture and too much nitrogen in the soil, rot develops on peppers. Areas infected with it appear on the top of the fruit, and over time it covers the entire surface. It is advisable to burn infected fruits; the plant is treated with a solution of calcium nitrate.

White rot

Another name is sclerotinia, it starts from the lower part of the stem, and forms on it white coating. As the fungus grows, it penetrates into the tissues and dense black areas appear in them. The pulp becomes soft, filled with liquid, and white flakes of plaque are visible on it. These bushes and fruits are removed without pity; they spread the infection. To prevent further development Bushes are watered only with warm water.

What's missing from pepper?

Often, many gardeners, seeing changes in the color of leaves on their pepper plants, consider this a disease, although this is just a lack of nutrients. Feeding with complex mineral fertilizer with increased content the desired element.

Pepper lack of nitrogen

This element is responsible for growth and development, its quantity is important especially at an early stage. The shortage affects the growth of seedlings, the leaves become pale and yellow, and the fruits do not set well. Excess leads to excessive growth of green mass, slows down the growing season, and fruits set reluctantly. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers are used when growing seedlings; an adult plant requires less of it.

Potassium deficiency in peppers

If the edges of the lower leaves turn yellow and become spotted, the pepper is lacking potassium. It is also important for normal growth; fruit set depends on its sufficient quantity.

Lack of phosphorus in peppers

Participates in the development of a high-quality root system, that is, in nutrition. When there is not enough element, pepper leaves take on a purple hue; if the plant is not fed, it may die in poor soils.

Boron deficiency

If there is a shortage of this component, the leaves and flowers begin to deform, the plant grows poorly, and, trying to make up for the deficiency, sheds its leaves.

Sweet pepper has long ceased to be a curiosity for us. And as such it has been known for no more than 200 years. At first, it was not so sweet, as it contained a lot of capsaicin, which gives the fruits pungency and bitterness. Today, thanks to breeders, we can admire the taste of sweet pepper, popularly called Bulgarian for some reason. Probably because in the 17th century the Bulgarians were the first to bring it to Russia, to Astrakhan.

Today, peppers are cultivated all over the world. And Russia is no exception. In our area, pepper is an annual crop. Although in its homeland in Mexico it is considered a perennial plant.

It seems that we have already become accustomed to this southerner, but in greenhouses and greenhouses he is still a rare guest. And at the same time, its other relatives (potato, tomato, physalis) from the nightshade family have long been appreciated and tamed by us.

After the first failures, some gardeners get the impression that this crop will not grow in our country, since it is very heat-loving. Anna Gordeeva, candidate of agricultural sciences, absolutely disagrees with this. She has been studying sweet peppers comprehensively for more than 20 years and knows absolutely everything about the “Bulgarian”. She sees the reason for the failures primarily in non-compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.

Some peppers are already blooming, while others have just thrown out their first buds. Did you know that it is from this first crown (or royal) flower that the yield depends?

The crown or royal flower always opens in the first fork of the main stem. No matter how pitiful it may be, it must be removed. And the sooner the better. Otherwise, the plant will devote all its strength to the formation of this one and only fruit.

You can also pinch the main stem above the 5th–8th leaf before the first bud appears. This activates the growth of lateral shoots, each of which, as a rule, produces many ripening fruits. After pinching, the yield increases by at least 30%. In addition, the spreading bush shades the soil and lower parts of the stem. This reduces their overheating and reduces the withering of plants, and most importantly, protects the fruits from sunburn.

Peppers have much more high requirements to humidity. Their roots are superficial, so the plants cannot tolerate even short-term drying out of the soil. Slight wilting of leaves is a signal for urgent watering. And this needs to be monitored constantly. Peppers (as well as other garden crops) need to be watered only with warm water, the temperature of which is not lower than plus 23 degrees. From cold water the plant may stop growing, delay flowering, or become sick. And it is advisable to water in the morning and only on the surface of the soil, so that water does not get on the leaves and stem.

But peppers also react poorly to excess moisture: water consumption depends on the weather and the stage of development. During the fruiting period, they require much more moisture. Until the fruits begin to form, you can water them once every 5–7 days, then 2 times a week. In hot weather, watering can be every other day or even daily. With a lack of water, flowers fall off and the ovaries become smaller.

And the need for water is determined by the pepper itself. More precisely, by its leaves: if they have darkened throughout the entire plant, it’s time to go get a watering can.

The emerging ovary of the pepper first grows in length, then in width, and only at the very end the walls begin to thicken. If at this moment there is a moisture deficiency, the fruits will be thin, dry and small.

After watering, after waiting for some time, it is advisable to loosen the bed shallowly (1–1.5 cm). If it is difficult to knock off the crust, you can use a sharp fork, but without swinging it (so as not to tear off the roots), make deep punctures between the plants for inflow fresh air to the roots.

You can lightly mulch the bed with peat, humus, compost or dry soil. This technique will retain moisture in the soil longer and prevent crust formation. Good result Mulching with black non-woven material also provides benefits.

In order for the fruit to set better, especially in a greenhouse, artificial pollination is needed. To do this, you need to lightly shake the plants in the morning (from 9 to 11 o’clock). It is also necessary to periodically ventilate the greenhouse. But you can only open the door and windows from one side: pepper does not tolerate drafts.

Peppers are very responsive to all kinds of fertilizing. It is better, of course, to use organic matter. These can be fermented “green” cocktails, or infusions of mullein or bird droppings. You can also add “mineral water” to them. For example, for 10 liters of solution - 1 tbsp. l. mineral fertilizer containing microelements. These can be “Kemira-universal”, “Rastvorin”. If there is no organic matter, you can prepare the following composition: 2 tsp per 10 liters of water. "Urea" and "Superphosphate".

It is advisable to fertilize peppers every 10–14 days, adding 1 liter of mixture under each bush. When will the fruits become the size of Walnut, the “menu” needs to be changed slightly: for 10 liters of water - 1 tsp. "Superphosphate" and "Potassium salt". Wood ash can also be used instead. 2 tbsp. l. ashes are poured into 3 liters of water, left for 2-3 days, stirred from time to time, then filtered and used.

If it's cold outside, the growth of peppers slows down. This is understandable: due to the cold, the root system works weakly, and the plants starve. In such cases, foliar feeding is needed. In case of growth retardation, use “Urea” (0.5 tsp per 5 liters of water). Slurry diluted with water 1:5 also works effectively.

To protect the flowers and ovary from falling off, at the beginning of flowering it is necessary to spray the plants with a solution of 2 g diluted in 10 liters. Boric acid" and "Magnesium sulfate". With weak flowering and poor fruit filling, an extract of “Superphosphate” will help. 1 tsp. fill 5 liters of the drug hot water, leave for a day. And then start processing.

At the beginning of August, it would be good to feed the peppers with potassium fertilizer “Kalimagnesia”, which contains up to 30% potassium and up to 20% magnesium: 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. Fertilizer not only increases the content of vitamin C in fruits, but also increases productivity, extends fruiting time, and helps resist diseases.

To protect peppers from such a very common disease as blossom end rot, it is necessary to treat the plantings at least once a week with a solution of “Calcium nitrate” - 1 g per 1 liter of water. Root feeding is also very effective: 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water (0.5 liters per plant). l. "Calcium nitrate" and 1 tbsp. l. "Potassium sulfate."

Mineral foliar feeding can be combined with drugs to combat pests and diseases. It is very good to add liquid humates to them - potassium and sodium salts humic acids. Such solutions can be used both for watering and spraying plants. Humates and humic acids are the basis of humus. And humus itself is the key to active growth and development of plants. The use of humates will speed up flowering and fruiting and increase the yield. To prevent diseases, you can spray peppers several times a season with modern biological preparations - growth and protection stimulants: Fitosporin-M, Zircon, NV-101, Epin-Extra. Foliar fertilizing affects the plant faster than root fertilizing, but does not replace them.

There is a lot of controversy surrounding the topic of the formation of pepper bushes. Everyone knows that it is necessary to remove the shoots from tomatoes. But it turns out that the same procedure is important for peppers. Pruning will redistribute nutrients and increase the amount of harvest. Be sure to remove all shoots and regularly cut out fruit-bearing and fruitless shoots. The plant does not need ugly fruits.

Low standard varieties are not pinched, but only the thickening leaves are removed so that the peppers are exposed to the sun. For medium-sized varieties, all leaves up to the fork and the crown bud are removed. In tall peppers, all leaves up to the fork and the crown bud are also removed, and two shoots are left in the fork itself. With further growth in each subsequent fork, one shoot is left to continue, and the second is pinched after the first ovary. And the shoots must be tied to the trellis.

Fruits from ovaries located above the fork will receive additional nutrition, and the harvest will be significantly larger. In addition, the plants will be better lit.

As for the actual harvesting, experts distinguish between two degrees of ripeness for peppers: technical and biological. The first occurs 35–45 days after flowering, when the fruits are still green, but have already reached their maximum size and only a thin bright stripe indicates their “color”. At the stage of biological ripeness, the fruits are brighter and juicier.

When do you cut peppers? When will they turn completely yellow or red? But this is wrong. Anna Petrovna advises picking the first fruits at the stage of technical ripeness, so as not to overload the plants. Then the second, more powerful wave of the harvest will have time to ripen on the bushes.

Peppers harvested at the technical ripeness stage already contain a sufficient amount of vitamins, and the vegetable itself is quite suitable for consumption. At this time, with light pressure, the fruit crackles slightly. And you need to cut it off carefully with pruning shears.

You cannot pick peppers: the stems are very fragile, and the stalks are hard, and you can break off an entire shoot.

It has been proven that harvesting pepper at technical ripeness increases the yield by 25–30% by saving substances that are spent on seed formation.

Reference

Want to know what your peppers are missing?

Take a close look at the leaves. Using them, it is easy to determine what substances are missing in the soil:

Nitrogen - leaves are small, pale green, turn yellow, fall off early;

Phosphorus - leaves are dark green or bluish, with a red tint, drying, almost black;

Potassium - the edges of the leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die, curl downwards, the leaves are wrinkled;

Calcium - apical buds and roots are damaged and die;

Magnesium - leaves lighten, acquire a yellow, red or purple color at the edges and between the veins;

Iron - the leaves are pale green, the tissues do not die, lightening appears between the veins - chlorosis;

Copper - the tips of the leaves turn pale, chlorosis appears;

Boron - apical buds and roots die, flowering does not occur, leaves fall off.