How to care for a miniature poodle. Rules for raising puppies Training and education

Miniature Poodles are delightful, intelligent characters that thrive if they receive constant attention and love from their owner. These are hardy small dogs that live well to adolescence, but they will most likely require veterinary attention when they are older to ensure they live to a ripe old age. Caring for a toy poodle means paying attention to your dog and having the financial ability to provide for his needs, such as regular grooming, health care in old age, and preventative treatments such as deworming.

Steps

Feeding a Miniature Poodle

Choose food that is appropriate for your dog's age. Depending on his age, a dog needs different amounts of protein, calories and other nutrients. Eat Various types dog food designed for puppies, adult dogs and senior dogs.

Choose a completely dry diet. Feeding options will be a completely dry diet (often known as pads) or a soft diet based on canned food with the addition of biscuits. Dry food is healthier for your dog's teeth because chewing the biscuits helps keep them clean. Canned food may be better suited for toy breeds, but sticky canned or bagged food sticks to teeth and encourages bacteria.

If possible, start keeping your toy poodle on a completely dry diet to help maintain dental health.
Look for food designed for toy breeds to make chewing the pads less of a problem.

Distribute the frequency of feedings depending on the age of your dog. If she is still a puppy, she has a smaller stomach and must eat more often than an adult dog.

Give your dog more water. Always have a bowl of water available to your dog. Change the water every day and wash the cups every few days.

Grooming and brushing a miniature poodle
1. Keep your dog's fur from getting tangled. Poodles have a curly, coarse coat that is constantly growing. Poodles' coats do not shed in the same way as other breeds. Their fur falls out but becomes tangled with the rest of their fur. This means that poodles are more likely to develop knots and tangles in their coat.
  - Puppies have a soft coat that begins to resemble adult fur at about 6-9 months of age. The complete transition to an adult coat can take up to 18 months for your pet.
2. Groom your dog's coat every day. Take a few minutes every day to brush it. This will serve the dual purpose of making detangling easier and giving it some much-needed attention.
  
  Use a comb or brush with stiff bristles. To comb out mats, use a comb or brush, available at a pet store. You should also use both a comb and a brush on different parts bodies.
  
  Spray your dog's fur with water. Before you start brushing, spray some water on your poodle's coat. This will help avoid the build-up of static electricity. Water can also help prevent dry hair from becoming tangled.
  
  Comb section by section. Separate a piece of wool and hold it between your fingers. Brush the coat from root to tip.
  - Brush all of your dog's fur and be sure to do it behind the ears and under the belly.
3. Trim your dog's coat every 3-8 weeks. A poodle's coat is constantly growing and requires constant trimming to keep it looking neat. Depending on how long you want to keep your dog's coat, aim to trim it every 3-8 weeks.
  - This is usually done at a dog salon, but if you have good dog scissors, a little practice and a lot of time, you can learn how to cut your dog's hair on your own.
poodle ear care
1. Consider pulling out hair from your dog's ears. Toy poodles tend to have very hairy canals. Body hair extends into the ear canal and can block it—a bit like wearing furry headphones all the time. Consult your veterinarian to establish an appropriate schedule for ear plucking.
  
  Watch out for ear problems. Monitor your dog's ears carefully, especially if you don't remove hair. Be alert for ear infections (characterized by unpleasant smell, thick black wax or fluid leaking from the ear) and be careful with foreign objects in the ear (if you constantly scratch your ear or tilt your head to one side).
  
  Visit your veterinarian if you notice a problem. If you notice signs that your dog has ear problems, ask your veterinarian to test for diseases. They can advise you whether to remove ear hair and how often.
Caring for Your Miniature Poodle's Teeth
take care of your poodle's health
Spay your poodle bitch. One of the health problems of the miniature poodle is the tendency to diabetes mellitus(diabetes mellitus). Hormones associated with a female dog's estrous cycle can cause diabetes. Therefore, it is a wise decision to have your female poodle spayed.

Monitor your aging dog for illnesses. Small but cheerful, toy poodles often live into double digits. They do, however, tend to suffer from health problems as they age. Diabetes, bad teeth and heart disease are the most common. These problems, once identified, can be managed to help your pet live a long, active life.

6. Raising a real poodle.

EDUCATION OR HARD TRAINING?

* Basic principles of raising a poodle.

Constancy of demands is “impossible” today, which means it will never be possible.
- Insist on your own - affectionately, but firmly.
- Praise (maybe exaggerated) is the main incentive in education.
IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO SPOIL A POODLE WITH PRAISE.
PRAISE AND ATTENTION TO HIM IS A STRONG ENCOURAGEMENT.
OBVIOUS INDIFFERENCE TO HIM IS A SERIOUS PUNISHMENT.
ALL PUDLER EDUCATION IS BASED ON THIS,
namely REASONABLE EDUCATION and not HARD TRAINING.

Teach affectionately, patiently repeat and praise AT TIME -
THE ENCOURAGEMENT METHOD is much better suited for raising a poodle than strict training based on a punishment system.

A well-bred poodle does not at all look like a “trained” creature squeezed into strict boundaries, completely devoid of individuality. Any well-mannered poodle is simply happy when he can fulfill the owner’s wishes, and some even invent all sorts of “tricks” and “tricks” themselves in order to attract attention to themselves.

* The beginning of education is the period of socialization.

This term refers to the age when a puppy realizes that he is not alone in the world - there is a mother, brothers and sisters, and also dogs, big people and little people (who are sometimes punished and yell).
This awareness takes place in the breeder’s home, and how he trains the puppy will shape the dog’s whole life. And I repeat again - do not buy a puppy anywhere! Only the breeder who has nothing to hide, who thinks about the future of the puppies, only he is worthy of your attention and reimbursement of his costs.
Remember that the psyche of a puppy raised to the age of 12 weeks in a confined space without communication with people and other dogs is irrevocably damaged. A puppy who has not received the experience of communicating with a person in the first 12 weeks of his life, the experience of the touch of a person’s hands, the sound of his voice, and who does not know what playing with a person is, will never become a real companion dog or helper dog.
A puppy that has not had the opportunity to play with its mother, with littermates or with older puppies and young dogs also grows into a dog with a damaged psyche and suffers from “orphan syndrome” throughout its life, just like abandoned human children.

Remember - the first 12 weeks of a puppy’s life are the most important period in the formation of his psyche, knowledge of the world around him, and awareness of himself in this world.

The page is in progress - not all illustrations have been selected yet.
But they will definitely be there!

* Accustoming to cleanliness. "Newspaper toilet"

When a puppy comes into your home from a reputable and responsible breeder, he is usually accustomed to the “newspaper toilet”, recognizing the smell of newspapers and the sound of rustling wherever you place them. If the puppy is confused in his new home, take him to the newspaper, catching the moment when he makes characteristic circular movements, clearly about to sit down.
Do this calmly and gently so as not to scare the baby when he is so focused. The puppy should be taken there immediately after waking up and after eating. The puppy will quickly understand what they want from him and will run to the newspapers on his own.
Don't forget to praise by considering what and what quality appeared on the newspaper.
The stupid custom of punishing, especially poking your nose into a puddle or pile, is not acceptable in education and brings the most bitter fruits.
The puppy will need a “newspaper toilet” until he is 4-6 months old. You shouldn't make him tolerate it if you can't get him out into the yard every two hours.
Over time, the intervals between feedings (and “toilet” ones too) will increase, and the need for newspapers will disappear by itself.
When the young poodle learns to endure and will recover only on the street, the second part of the science of cleanliness begins. It is very easy to teach him to walk 20-30 meters and not sit right there at the entrance.

* Collar training.

Until the puppy is accustomed to a collar and leash, it should not be allowed out for walks. As soon as the quarantine ends after vaccinations, you can take him out for a walk in your arms, but always WITH A COLLAR AND A LEASH. You need to put a collar on a puppy while dressed yourself, so to speak “at the door,” without allowing the baby to come to his senses. He will be carried away by new impressions and will not immediately notice that he is already wearing a collar.

Walk for only 5-10 minutes and, if the puppy does not indicate that he wants to go down to the ground, do not let him go. Two or three walks - and your smart little poodle will understand that the collar is connected to leaving the house and will run up himself, seeing how you dress, so that he can be “dressed” too.

At home, the collar should be removed so as not to damage the fur. Let it be a pleasant symbol of a walk.

* Leash training.

A roulette leash will come in handy in this science. Find a place where there are no dogs, no children running around, and no bushes where the leash could get tangled. Carry the puppy there in your arms. The collar must be worn at home and the leash must be fastened. Lower the puppy to the ground. Wait a bit. If he is sitting where you put him down, begin to move away from the puppy while remaining facing him. The tape measure stretches, the tension on the leash is not strong, but still noticeable. Moving 2-3 meters away, sit down and gently call the puppy. If he moves, praise him immediately! Take him in your arms when he comes up and tell him how brave he is. Two or three such exercises and your smart poodle will not only get used to the leash, but will also know exactly its length.

* Command "Come to me!"

As soon as the puppy is no longer afraid of the pull of the leash, you can begin teaching this important command for life.
Now walk away from the puppy more decisively. He will either immediately run after you or at the moment when the roulette leash tightens.

But as soon as he runs, joyfully say “Come to me!” and give me a nickname.

Be sure to praise him when he catches up with you.

When this exercise is mastered, you can try to give a command at the moment when the puppy has moved away the entire length of the tape measure. If he is carried away by something and does not hear, move your hand forward, press the stopper and lower your hand again. The length of the tape measure leash will be shortened by half a meter and the puppy will feel a not strong, but noticeable tug. At this moment, repeat the command (only without threat!) and praise when it comes up.
Repeat no more than 2-3 times, but on every walk. Don’t forget about praise and encouragement - at the end of the lesson, you can reward your baby with a piece of boiled liver (or a special treat for training - it doesn’t stain your pocket and hands, it’s sold in a pet store).

SERIOUS ERROR. The puppy is carried away by something and does not hear the command. Approaches by chance, at a time when the owner has already lost patience and is angry. He receives punishment, but for what? - And for coming up!

* Command "Near!"

Once you have mastered the previous two exercises, learning this command is not at all difficult. Teach your puppy to walk calmly on a short leash, next to his left leg. You can't let the puppy drag you, you can't drag the puppy behind you.
Of course, a curious baby will be distracted and will not immediately understand what they want from him.

Start the lesson after the excitement of going outside has subsided and all the chores have been done.
Walk with an energetic, but not too wide step, trying to keep the puppy close to your left leg at least for a short time.
When you succeed at least a little, repeat in a calm tone, “Nearby, good nearby!” You can attract the puppy's attention with a piece of boiled liver (or a training treat), but do not give it away.
Just after walking at least a few meters, give the treat and release the roulette stopper, joyfully saying, “Go for a walk!”
During training, make sure that the leash is not pulled too tight and the puppy does not “choke” on it. This bad habit very difficult to eradicate. As soon as the leash tightens, it immediately stops.
Let's go again, praise "Good, close, good!" As soon as the leash tightened, they stood up again, without punishment or any unnecessary words.

* Commands “Sit!”, “Stand!”.

The previous exercise can be used to teach these commands as well.
If the puppy sits down during the stop, say “Sit, sit well,” if he remains standing, say in an encouraging tone, “Stand, stand well.”
You need to speak slightly warning his movement.
During the second or third lesson, say “Stop!” and only then do you stop. If the puppy sits down, lift it under the tummy and say, holding it, “Stand, stand well.” Same thing with the other team. If you remain standing, run one hand along the puppy’s back and lightly press on the croup, while with the other hand slightly pull the leash up - “Sit, sit well!”

Once these commands have been learned, begin practicing at the edge of the sidewalk.
First you need to train yourself to stop before crossing the street. Then you can start training the puppy.
Lead him on a short leash to the edge of the sidewalk, give the command “Stop!” and stop. For several days, this exercise needs to be repeated several times on each walk, but in different places. As soon as you notice that the puppy understands what they want from him, you can complicate the task. Before reaching the edge of the sidewalk 1-2 meters, release the tape measure stopper. The puppy “by inertia” will take several steps forward. As soon as he gets close to the edge of the sidewalk, clearly say “Stop!” and press the stopper, slightly pulling the leash. Wait a little and approach the puppy with the words “Stop, stand well!” You can reward with a treat.

Not only strict execution of the owner’s command, but also the established habit of standing on the edge of the sidewalk until the owner allows him to move on, may someday save the dog’s life.

* Beggar at the table. Cozy master bed.

To stop begging, it is usually advised to give something tasteless. I can assure you that this will not help. Either he will spit it out or eat what he gives and wait for something more tasty.

It is better not to pay attention to the sad sounds and scratching of small claws. After all, you know that the puppy is full!

Perhaps, only this situation requires not education but strict training. And not the poodle, but all the family and, especially, guests.

And with another problem - the master's bed - it's even easier.
How to wean yourself from getting into bed? Yes, if it’s unpleasant for you, don’t teach it, it’s impossible to wean it off!

PUPPY GAMES. MEETING AND PLAYING DOGS.

* Why do they play?

It's interesting to watch dogs play. Why are they playing? All animals living in groups have play behavior. While playing, young animals learn the language of poses and learn to understand their fellow tribesmen. Poodle puppies begin to play at around 3 weeks of age. Their movements are still uncertain and often they just fidget while lying down. At 4 weeks this fuss already looks like a game.

The puppy knows what position to take so that the mother or littermates understand that his attack will not be real, that this is a game. The mother usually monitors the play of the puppies and if it becomes too serious or one of the puppies squeaks, a menacing growl will instantly calm everyone down.
By the 5th week, the games become more complicated, and the desire to protect the favorite toy and “their” corner in the nest appears. Gradually, the puppy learns not to use his teeth too much, not to get too worked up.

Of the puppies, deprived of games and communication with fellow tribesmen, never
canine personalities don’t work out - some wretched creatures who are afraid of their own shadow, don’t know how to say hello to
another dog and what place to sniff, where to play there!

It is precisely such neurotics who become victims of large and aggressive dogs, and even the calmer ones find fault with them all the time.
Up to 4-5 months, the owner has a chance to gradually teach such a puppy to properly meet, “talk” and play with other dogs. Nothing can be fixed later. It is also a good idea for the owner to know the language of dog poses so as not to disturb the dog.

* The language of dog poses.

"I WOULD LIKE TO MEET YOURSELF." Unfamiliar dogs slowly approach each other, they do not look at each other, slightly turn away their muzzles, exposing their necks, their raised tails wag relaxedly. This pose indicates a normal mood and a desire to get to know each other. The dogs slowly converge and stand side by side so that the head of one is near the tail of the other. Mutual sniffing begins. Both tails are wagging, which means everything is fine.

But if at this moment the owner of one of the dogs pulls on the leash, and she straightens her neck and head, makes a sharp movement, her tail freezes for some time from the unpleasant tug of the leash - that’s it, a different pose and, at a minimum, a small fight is guaranteed !

"LET'S PLAY!" The dog falls on its front legs, puts its head on its paws, and its hind end wags along with its tail. If the other dog is also inclined to play, a chase begins, a fuss imitating a fight, again a chase and again a fuss with a terrible growl and bared teeth.
However, everything ends without a scratch. Both pant and approach their owners when they are completely exhausted.

"I AM A PAWG!" This position is adopted by puppies in front of an older dog, as well as by those adult dogs that do not claim dominance (“submission pose”). During the first sniff, the yielding dog falls on its side, rolls over onto its back and freezes in this position, turning its head slightly towards the other dog. Puppies sometimes pee so that no doubt about their tender age and lack of claims to dominance arises. The senior dog may growl a little to assert his seniority and move away. Dogs don't like to play giveaway.

THREATENING POSE. Dogs rarely attack each other without warning. Owners need to be aware of signs of increasing tension in a dog's relationship or demonstrative threatening postures.

* Games with the dog.

It’s good if there is a place where you can calmly let the dog off the leash and let it run around and frolic to its heart’s content. But this is not always possible. If a poodle was played with at home when he was a small puppy, he will have a blast and even get tired in a tiny yard.
You can continue to play with a small poodle at home (without canceling walks!).

BALLS and other jumping toys. The ball should be of such a size that it does not stretch the dog's mouth too much, but not so small that he could swallow it or choke on it. Non-round, elastic toys that bounce in unexpected directions (available in pet stores) are very good for developing coordination of movements in a puppy and can keep an adult dog in good condition. Poodles really like these toys. When playing with your puppy, throw the toy directly in front of him. Increase the distance gradually.

GAME "APPORT!" All large poodles, as well as many small ones, have an innate ability to fetch - they carry a toy to the owner, poke him in the hands or place him at his feet. You can practice the command "Aport!" and the poodle will always bring the thrown object and give it directly into the hands. The game of fetch does not require a lot of space, but it gives the dog the opportunity to shake off the energy accumulated from lying on the sofa and show off his talents. Hunters "by the feather" can use such a poodle in action.

HIDE AND HIDE. A good game and training the dog to at least keep an eye on where the owner is at the moment. You can start by crouching behind some bush, without hiding too much. Increase the distance gradually. Say the nickname and the command “Look!” When she discovers you, be sure to praise her. On the command "search!" The dog can be trained to search for hidden objects. When he finds it, give the command “fetch!” and receive the item in your hands.

A book could be written about playing dogs and playing with dogs. Because no two dogs are the same, no two owners are the same. Every couple
“man-dog” can have their own games, understandable and loved only by them. No matter how, no matter what, but play with your dog!

This is the speed at which a poodle flies out of a tube in an agility competition. Mini class.
(Monomakh's Hat Gold Pea, toy poodle. Owner Ana Bustamante, Spain)

* SPORTS WITH A Poodle.

The age of 6-8 months is the most suitable to start playing some kind of sport.
* Fun sport game AGILITY.
IN last years Agility is of particular interest among our dog breeders.Agility invented by the British. This is a track with elegant obstacles - intricate barriers, swings, a slide, a pipe, a "comb" - the dog and the person must overcome them in a certain sequence and for a time. It turns out that all dogs are very passionate and feel when a competition begins, although they perceive the exercises themselves as fun game. No harsh training, menacing shouts and, especially, spankings are allowed. Such a would-be athlete will be disqualified. There are now agility sports groups in many cities across the country. All-Russian Championships and qualifying competitions are held. Since 1996, the Russian team has been participating in the annual World Agility Championship. In order to engage in this sport it is not necessary to have a dog with a pedigree. They take everyone. They are distinguished only by size - small and large ones are trained in different groups (mini and standard).

There is another sport game with a dog - Fly Ball - It was invented by the Americans and is popular all over the world. Russian dogs are also mastering it. Here the dog must, at the command of the owner, overcome a track with four barriers and, running up to a special device at the end of it, press the pedal. A ball will fly out, which you need to catch and return with it back to the owner. The execution time and the cleanliness of passing barriers are taken into account. Losing the ball is penalized.

Frisbee and freestyle exercises for the body,
Obedience is something for the mind.

The passionate athlete Olga Bobrova, who lives in the USA, speaks knowledgeably about these types of “dog” sports. I will cite part of her article for our “Poodle Review”-2009, as well as several of her beautiful photographs.

When purchasing such an intelligent dog with a fine mental organization and thus accepting responsibility for its fate, the owner must take care not only of providing proper nutrition and proper care. For harmonious development Poodle puppy and turning it into an intelligent and well-mannered companion poodle, timely socialization and physical activity appropriate to the age and size of the dog are equally important. For a more complete development of the poodle's personality, he needs to early age need a variety of emotional experiences and the ability to decide independently various tasks. Only by providing a variety of food for the inquisitive poodle mind, giving tasks in which he can express himself, can the unique potential of the poodle be revealed.
What to do if you live in a city, don’t accept hunting, don’t own a flock of sheep, and don’t feel like you have the makings of a street circus performer?

Fortunately, there is a solution, and more than one. You can engage in sports or some type of special training with your pet. There are many different types of sports programs, the activities of which will bring benefit and satisfaction to you and your dog, will allow you to better understand each other and feel like a single friendly team.

Frisbee - the main task of the dog is to catch the flying disc. There are enthusiasts of this sport in many cities of Russia. In Moscow, for example, there is a wonderful club “Constellation of the Hunting Dogs”, which regularly conducts training, master classes and competitions. The game of flying saucer is also great way give the dog a good one physical activity, making a minimum of your own body movements.

Freestyle (dancing with a dog) - this sport appeared relatively recently and immediately aroused great interest.
During the performance, the athlete and the dog perform a composition to the music, demonstrating various steps and original tricks. This sport, somewhat akin to ballroom dancing, is suitable for both temperamental and calmer dogs.

No less interesting and useful for the poodle and its owner can be
There will be classes in various specialized types of training.
One of them, the search and rescue service, is now actively developing in Russia with the support of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Dogs are taught to maneuver on difficult shaky surfaces, overcome various obstacles, search for and bark to identify people found under rubble. Such important and noble work greatly influences the relationship between dog and owner, making them true partners.

Puppies raised according to the laws of nature have greater resistance to all diseases. They have strong bones thick hair, strong muscles instead of fat.

To strengthen the bones of a puppy up to 2.5 months, it is necessary to add to the food from 2 to 4 tablets of calcium glycerophosphate, crushed into powder, up to 6 months - from 3 to 6 tablets, and up to a year - from 5 to 8 tablets (the dosage depends depending on the puppy's weight). This drug is sold in regular pharmacies. In the absence of glycerophosphate, it can be replaced with finely ground eggshell, which is given on the tailbone of a knife, constantly increasing the dose to half a teaspoon or calcium phosphate, which is sold in a veterinary pharmacy.

If a puppy tries to eat soil or sand, this indicates a lack of mineral salts in the diet.

To avoid rickets, you can prepare the following mixture for puppies: 40 tablets of calcium glycerophosphate (calcium gluconate), 20 tablets of phytin, 1/3 jar of dry brewer's yeast, 10 tablets of activated charcoal - grind everything and give 2 teaspoons from 2 months, to four months – 4 tsp., by 6 months and beyond – 6 tsp. per day constantly. You can give multivitamin preparation Farmovit for dogs.

If the puppy does not eat, remove the food and do not feed it for at least 12 hours, his stomach is full of toxins and needs fasting to empty it. Wheat bread and flour products, turning into a sticky mass in the dog’s stomach, stick to the wall of the stomach and disrupt digestion. Hercules oatmeal is very healthy: it contains a lot of proteins and mineral compounds - zinc, copper, magnesium, sodium, iron. The flakes should be given exclusively raw, poured with a decoction of cabbage soup, broth, milk, or a few hours before meals or immediately before meals. They are very easily digested in the dog's stomach.

A very small puppy is given an incomplete tea saucer of milk, cottage cheese - 25 grams, meat - 30 grams, and a whisper of rolled oats. Milk is given with honey (1 teaspoon per glass) or rolled oats. Pure milk turns sour in dogs' stomachs.

Sometimes you can replace rolled oats with buckwheat porridge. The meat is given in relatively large pieces - 2-3 cm in diameter, gradually increasing with age. They satiate the dog and are completely digestible. Minced meat is a transfer of valuable feed; it passes through gastrointestinal tract as if in transit. Small puppies are given scraped meat. You can give different meats, with the exception of fatty pork. Lamb sometimes causes diarrhea, then stop giving it. Raw bones must be large ones to give to puppies. They should have meat on them to gnaw on. Give only sea fish (cod fillet, perch, etc.) in a boiled form, carefully checking for bones.

Garlic is given to both puppies and adult dogs as the best preventive measure against worms. Puppies are given garlic 2 times a week, adult dogs - 1 time every 1-2 weeks, from half to a whole clove, depending on the size of the dog. It is finely chopped and mixed with butter. If the dog does not take it, put it in the mouth and cover the mouth and nose. Fruits, berries and all kinds of raw vegetables are very healthy: carrots, beets, potatoes, cabbage. Some dogs even eat tomatoes and sweet bell peppers. Introduce vegetables to vegetables from a very early age. Cheese is very healthy; it contains a lot of calcium.

What you should never do:

Never force feed your dog.

You cannot give meat and bread at the same time.

You cannot feed your puppy semolina porridge, bread, sugar, pure milk, candy, cookies, gingerbread, small bones including chicken bones, pork, smoked meats including sausage.

You cannot add spices to food - pepper, bay leaf; feed legumes - beans, peas, lentils, whole oatmeal porridge.

Do not allow your puppy to pick up food from the floor and do not give treats to the floor yourself. In the future, it will be easier to prevent the dog from picking up from the floor.

It is forbidden to place the puppy in the kitchen, in the bathroom or in the corridor near the door, in a draft, to keep the puppy on a leash or lock it in a dark place, to fence off its place with something in order to reduce the area of its movement.

You should not allow your puppy to jump on the sofa, bed, or chair.

You should not allow the puppy to crawl under low furniture - this can lead to a sagging back and changes in bone development; pulling a rag or leash from the teeth can break the teeth and ruin the bite.

You cannot take the puppy outside immediately after sleeping and eating. For up to three months, he should be carried for walks in his arms, since going down the stairs on his own ahead of time is harmful for the puppy. It is recommended to take long walks with your puppy at least an hour after eating. After a walk, you should feed the puppy no earlier than an hour later.

The puppy must not be allowed to approach stray dogs to avoid contracting infectious diseases. If a puppy is frightened by an adult dog, he may remain cowardly.

You cannot force a puppy (dog) to run after a motorcycle, car or swim behind a boat - this is very dangerous.

You cannot raise your voice at a puppy or beat him - this develops cowardice. If a puppy has done something wrong and needs to be punished, this must be done at the moment he commits an undesirable act, and punishing the puppy after a while will only bring harm, since he will not understand why he is being punished.

You must not allow strangers to caress or tease your puppy or cause him pain.

You can't set a puppy on strangers, but if he himself shows aggressiveness, then praise him.

Approximate menu and feeding schedule for puppies.

From 1 to 2.5 months.

8 hours – milk and curdled milk with honey.

11 hours – raw rolled oats, soaked overnight in milk or curdled milk, broth.

14 hours – raw meat (pieces of beef or boiled fish) with the addition of raw vegetables, finely grated carrots, always mixed with fats – vegetable, sunflower, soy, corn.

17 hours - milk or cottage cheese, or curd cheese (milk is given with honey - 1 teaspoon per glass of rolled oats or buckwheat porridge).

20 hours – main feeding. Raw meat, to which is added: vegetable oil 0.5 tsp, seaweed, crushed or minced through a fine meat grinder, greens - lettuce, parsley, celery, dandelion leaves, young nettle, wild mint, sprouted oats, rye or wheat , finely chopped 0.5 tsp, egg - 2 times a week, only the yolk, dipping raw meat into it, the amount of which is decreasing these days.

Meat can be given with broth or broth.

From 2.5 to 4 months.

They feed at 8, 12, 16 and 20 o'clock, giving meat and fish in the last two feedings, and distributing milk, yogurt, oatmeal, vegetables between morning and afternoon. The amount of all additions to the meat increases to a teaspoon or more depending on the weight of the dog.

After 4 months.

They feed at 8, 14 and 20 hours, increasing the amount of food and giving meat with additions at the last feeding.

After 8 months:

They feed 2 times at 8 and 20 o'clock. In the evening, meat or fish with additions, in the morning everything else, alternating.

How to teach a puppy to be clean

To prevent trouble, once you bring your puppy home, keep him away from other people's dogs and places where they recover - he can pick up diseases there. The ideal place for your puppy to begin to recover is in a place where there are no other dogs around.

At the very beginning, the puppy is taught to do his “business” on paper. This period lasts 1–4 weeks. Choose a place where he can empty his bowels and bladder. It could be a small room, or a large corner. Lay paper there, covering the entire floor. Immediately after eating, place the puppy on the paper. When he does his “business”, remove them along with the newspaper and put a new newspaper in this place, and leave one newspaper with his smell on top. A dog smells seven times better than a human and will unmistakably find the only newspaper where its stain remains. Repeat this procedure, keeping one newspaper until the dog gets used to going to the same place.

As you go, gradually reduce the area covered by the paper until it is reduced to the size necessary for a dog. For a miniature poodle, it can be a square measuring no more than 35x35 cm.

Accustoming to cleanliness must be closely linked with feeding. A puppy aged 2–6 months should be fed 3–4 times a day. Leave food out for only 10 minutes. Give him as much water as he wants. After each meal, the puppy must be placed on paper and ensure that he recovers. The water is also removed, and when specially given to drink, the puppy must be placed on paper. The puppy is not given water before going to bed, but it still needs to be placed on paper. This continues until the puppy can go out, then start teaching him to ask and live according to a schedule.

Dogs 6 months of age and older are fed twice a day. This is preferable to giving them a large meal once a day that they will eat instantly. Give your dog as much water as he can drink, but only at specific times.

If your dog makes a puddle in another part of the house, use a special deodorizer that is sold in pet stores. Other disinfectants are not effective. The dog's nose will find its spot and the puppy will return to this place again and again.

Keep your puppy with you at all times and watch him. When you see that he is about to do his “business” in the wrong place (not on the newspaper), shout loudly “Ugh!” and immediately drag it onto paper. When he does everything on the newspapers, praise him by saying “good.” The contrast between "Ugh!" and “okay” shows the dog what is expected of it.

If the dog again does not go to the paper, keep it in sight at all times. The next time she tries to get dirty in the wrong place, shout “Ugh!” again. and quickly put it on paper. Repeat this procedure over and over again until it stops making errors.

Do not hit the dog under any circumstances, point your nose at what it did, and do not shout “Shame on you!” It's useless. Continue to treat these areas with deodorizer and do not show your dog that you are losing patience. She will sense your weakness and use it against you.

At night and when you cannot supervise your puppy, place him in a small room or in a corner of the room where he can peek out to prevent him from developing a fear of enclosed spaces. The best place There will be a kitchen, the floor there is covered with linoleum or tiled and it is easier to eliminate the smell with the help of a deodorizer. Don't confine your dog where the floor is carpeted. Odors are more difficult to remove from carpet.

When you leave, you can lock your dog in a small room or kitchen by covering half the floor with newspaper. If upon your return you discover that your puppy has soiled himself somewhere he shouldn't have, use a deodorizer to eliminate the smell. When you discover a puppy's mistake, don't shout "Ugh!" – he won’t understand that he did something wrong. Keep an eye on him.

Don't scold your puppy for something he did wrong on paper, even if you were only gone for 2-3 minutes. Just clean up after him and keep an eye on him again. A puppy can understand what you require of him only at the moment when you catch him red-handed. Only then does it need to be corrected.

How to teach a puppy to beg

A dog trained to beg does everything outside the house. A dog trained to sit on paper does so in the designated area.

In order for your dog to ask and do its “business” outside the house, it is preferable to feed it with good quality dry food, except in cases where it causes an upset stomach. Typically, dry food makes your dog thirsty, he drinks a lot, and he constantly wants to urinate. Give your dog dry food that suits him.

During meals, allow your dog to drink as much as he wants. Always take her out immediately after eating or drinking. During the period when you teach her to ask, take her out for 5-10 minutes, no more. You need the puppy to know why you are breeding him. If you give him half an hour to jump around the house, it will confuse him. If he doesn't do anything during this time, it's okay, take him home and keep an eye on him.

Give your puppy two meals a day, skipping meals in the middle of the day, but let him drink on a schedule so that he can take the puppy outside every 3 to 3.5 hours. At night or during the day, when you cannot keep an eye on your puppy, place him in a fenced-off area.

The last time you should feed your dog solid food is at 11 am. A dog's stomach will be empty if he is not given anything to drink after 9.30 pm, so he will not want to urinate. The rest of the time (between walks) the dog should be closely monitored. She should be in the same room as you, and there should be a rope tied to her collar so that you can grab the puppy if he starts doing his “business” in the house. If this happens, shout “Ugh!” and drag him out of the house. When he does his “business” outside the house, praise him and, after bringing him back into the house, continue to watch him. If he hasn't done anything outside for 5-10 minutes, take him back inside and watch. The dog should not leave the house to run and frolic during the period when you teach it to beg. This will confuse her and delay her learning.

When supervising your puppy, have him wear a collar and leash at all times. If you start looking for a leash and collar, then by the time you find it, the puppy will not know what they want from him and why he is being taken out. Don't correct his behavior unless you catch him red-handed. If you are distracted and your puppy poops in the wrong place, resist the temptation to yell at him or poke his nose.

As already mentioned, for the time when you cannot monitor the puppy, it should be placed in a fenced-off space, not much larger than itself. The dog will not do anything for itself, and this will help it learn to control its behavior.

But, being in a confined space, the dog should not feel cut off from the rest of the house. She needs to be able to look out and feel part of what is happening, while at the same time learning to control herself. If the space is large enough, then she can do it in one place and lie down in another, and after trying it once, she will do it that way.

By three and a half months the dog should be able to control its physiological functions within 8 hours and certainly within 1-2 hours while you are shopping. Don't let your dog signal to you that he wants to go out. Some dogs will do this every hour. And every time you will think that this is her legitimate request. You don't know that a dog can always squeeze a few drops out of itself if it understands that in this way it will achieve the fact that it will be taken out of the house and it will be able to run and frolic. If you allow this situation to happen, the dog’s whims will keep you in constant tension.

There are dogs that will continue to make puddles in the house even after you shout “Ew!” to them. and pull you outside. Don't let that stop you. Drag the dog out of the house, even if it has already done everything. On the street, praise her by saying “good” and lead her back into the house. This will end the educational moment on a positive note. If you don’t take your dog out of the house, it will take longer for him to form the habit of doing his “business” outside the house.

The ideal situation is when you notice that your dog is starting to walk in circles. You need to shout to her “Ugh!” before she starts doing anything.

Keeping the dog in a confined space, observing it, being able to catch it in the act of a “crime,” as well as a clear schedule for feeding and walking should form the dog’s habit of asking and going outside the home in about two weeks. During this time, the dog will make a mistake once or twice during the first week, but all this will be under control, and things will go on as usual.

And use special deodorizers. Bleach, cleaners or sprays are not effective because even if you can no longer smell the odor yourself, your dog can still smell it. In the meantime, she will smell her past sins, her nose will again lead her to these places where she will repeat the mistakes. The deodorizer does not mask, but destroys bad odors.

If everyone in the family works and no one is home all day, training the dog will take longer. It will take 1–1.5 months or even more, because during the day you cannot leave the dog in a confined space. And in a large room, it can get dirty in one place and lie quietly in another, and the results that you achieved while you were at home with the dog will come to naught when you are away.

It is effective to take your dog out as soon as you get home, before feeding. This walk should be very short, about 2 minutes, just like the first walk in the morning. People who complain that they walk their dog for hours and when they get home the dog makes a puddle are allowing this to happen by walking too long and not monitoring the dog when they get home.

In cases where walking the dog is not possible, no matter for what reason, an alternative may be to train the puppy to sit on paper. This means that the dog empties its bowels and bladder on paper placed in a certain place in the house.

Paper training is similar to outdoor training in that the feeding routine remains the same, but instead of taking the puppy out of the house, you put him on newspaper.

Puppy obedience training

To live in peace and harmony with a dog, you must be able to manage it.

Puppy training accessories consist of a collar and a 2-meter leather or fabric leash. You should use them every day when you take your puppy out of the house, so that he gets used to them and so that he does not have fear when you start training him.

Puppies should be exercised for 15 minutes a day, no longer. Puppies are able to perceive only very short lessons, then their attention wanders or they begin to get nervous. If your puppy becomes anxious easily, give 5-minute lessons 2-3 times a day and the results will be better than just one 15-minute lesson.

Team "Forward!"

At first it is impossible to get the dog to walk with you; it cannot be taught any command at all. To encourage your dog to move, use the word “good.” Then you need to call the dog by name, and then give the command “Forward!” Combining the words “ok” and “go” will encourage your dog to walk with you on a leash. This is not yet learning to walk side by side, this is movement in general. The “near” command is taught to an older dog. At first, the command “Forward!” should sound like this: “ok – dog’s name – go ahead.”

The first lesson in obedience training is walking around the room, stopping after about 2 meters. Do not start training outside the home, on the street or at a party, where the puppy will be distracted and unable to concentrate. It is better if there is a minimum amount of furniture in the room, where the puppy will not bump into various objects. This is important for another reason: if there is a lot of furniture in the room, the puppy will develop unnecessary emotions and become distracted.

Start your lesson in the middle of the room, as far away from the furniture as possible. You just need to encourage the dog to move with you, without under any circumstances forcing you to overcome obstacles.

One very important note. It is likely that your family will come to your aid - advice, comments, etc. will follow. All this will not give the desired result.

The command “Sit!”

You need to teach your dog to sit from the first lesson. It's done like this.

You walk the dog back and forth around the room, making turns in circles and giving the commands “ok – puppy name – forward” as you begin to walk. And when you stop, force the dog to sit by pressing on the lower back with your left hand and pulling the leash up with your right. Give the command “Sit!” once. When your dog sits, praise him by saying “good.”

So, you give the command “Sit!” and physically force her to sit by pressing on the lower back and pulling on the leash. The command is spoken only once. The procedure must be repeated for 5-10 minutes. daily for a week. After this, the puppy should be able to sit on command. It is better not to reward the puppy with a treat for completing a command, otherwise he will never work without it. The reward for him should be your praise, expressed in words and touch.

If after a week of training the puppy does not follow the command, a correction needs to be made. Rest assured, he understands what you want from him. If he does not comply with the command “Sit!”, You can lightly jerk the leash, saying “Ugh!” with this movement. When the puppy sits, praise him. There is no need to drag the leash. If the puppy still doesn’t sit down, pull the leash again and again give the command “Sit!” Continue to do this until you achieve the desired obedience, alternating jerks of the leash with the command “Sit!”

If you don't know whether you are pulling the leash hard or weak, observe your puppy's behavior. If it refuses to sit down after several corrections, it means that you are making very weak jerks. If it sits down, it means you corrected it correctly.

The greatest cruelty that an inexperienced owner can inflict on a dog is that the correction is not carried out effectively enough. This encourages further resistance and the need for numerous corrections, which ultimately cause the dog pain. Tough effective correction will work the first time, eliminating the need for further tugging. Feeling too sorry for the dog to pull it by the leash only means harming it, and in the future causing harm by abandoning it to its fate as disobedient.

Team "Place!"

This command is taught only after the puppy has firmly mastered the command “Sit!” With the dog sitting, extend your left hand in front of the dog's muzzle, slowly moving it closer, fingers pointing down. Say the command “Place!” just one time. After 2-3 seconds, praise the dog. As soon as the dog sits down, give the command “Place!”, accompanying the word with the same gesture. When training, the following is important: you must give the command, accompanying it with the same gesture and only once.

After 5 repetitions of the exercise, give the command “Place!” while the dog is sitting, and then turn around and face the dog. Then stand at the dog's side. Praise her. At the beginning of training, the dog should be in the “place” position for only a short time so that it does not have the opportunity to change position. After she has done this exercise, you need to praise the dog.

Then repeat the commands “Sit!” and “Place!” 5 times and move away from the dog half a meter. Quickly lower your hand, return to the dog and praise him. This is enough for the first lesson.

In the following lessons, gradually increase the distance between you and the dog, bringing it to the length of the leash (up to 2 meters). Always return to the dog quickly so that he does not have the opportunity to break the command. Increase the time accordingly until, after a week, the dog is able to follow the commands “Sit!” and “Place!” for half a minute at a distance of 2 m.

After a week, the dog should be able to remain in the “place” position for about a minute without paying attention to distractions. If the dog nevertheless violates the command and gets up, you need to correct its behavior by saying “Ugh!” and lightly tugging on the leash from a distance of 2 m and repeating the commands “Sit!” and “Place!” along with a hand gesture. Don't let your puppy run towards you. If he violates the “Place!” command, try to correct his behavior. If he does not obey, resolutely drag him to the place where the command was given and again command “Sit!” and “Place!”, accompanying the words with a hand gesture. Move away from the dog. If she gets up and violates the command when you return, correct her behavior fully again. Continue the activity until you can return to the puppy and stand at his side. The puppy continues to follow the command. Moving slowly towards the puppy helps him stay in the same position. After you stand at your dog's side, pause for a few seconds and then praise him. This way, you will teach the puppy to expect your praise, and he will not perceive the fact that you approached him as automatic permission to stop following the command. Waiting before you praise your dog will reinforce the “place” command.

At the same time, remember that you should not expect great success from a 3-4 month old puppy. Don't put it in difficult situation, when there are too many distractions for him, and therefore he will have to be corrected often - he will be afraid of further training, while more intensive classes await him ahead.

Team "Ugh!"

This command serves to correct the dog’s behavior and conveys to the dog a signal of your disapproval of its behavior.

When you say “Ugh!”, you must simultaneously jerk the leash and immediately release it. Subsequently, the command will be used without the leash jerk once your dog has established a strong association with the physical correction.

Here it is worth mentioning correct use commands Do not give the command “Down!” if the dog jumps on you or tries to grab a piece from the table. In such situations, you need to use the “Ugh!” command. You should also refrain from preaching to your dog about how to eat or how to greet people when they come to you. The dog needs to know the basic simple rules. She needs consistency in her actions, because otherwise she will have to suffer from unfair treatment when you are in a bad mood and when you yell at her for something that was previously allowed.

"Ugh!" – a simple, precise word to use in unwanted situations. It should be pronounced in an authoritative tone and in no case pleading. There is no need to go to the other extreme - to frighten the dog with a roar, which will turn the dog into a neurasthenic.

It is very important when correcting behavior using the command “Ugh!” Praise your dog after he corrects his behavior. If there is no contrast between correction and praise, then the dog will not know what exactly you want from it. By showing your dog the contrast between correction on one side and praise on the other, you give him a choice. If you are consistent, your dog will quickly understand what is expected of him.

Team "Walk!"

This command is understood as canceling the previous command. A dog, for all its intelligence, cannot read your mind, so don’t expect it to understand when the lesson is over. Don't expect her to come along just because you took the leash. The dog needs to be set up for the activity each time with commands such as “Jack, here!” or “Rex, come to me!” and you have to let go, saying “Go for a walk!” in a cheerful tone to convey to your pet that the activity is over. Remember that sometimes it is better to do several classes of 5-10 minutes than to study for an hour without a break.

How to help your dog overcome fear

Dog owners, as a rule, deny that their dogs are characterized by fears, aggressiveness and other unwanted behavioral reactions. Meanwhile, the behavior of many dogs creates a lot of problems for their owners. You don't have to look far for examples. A dog may be afraid of strangers, the noise of a vacuum cleaner, chew things in the house, etc.

If a dog does not like people or is afraid of them, this is because he has either been around them a little and does not know how to recognize them, or he has had experience with certain people and is suspicious of them. Often the dog owner solves the problem in the following way: every time someone approaches the house, the dog is locked in the basement, kitchen, yard, bedroom, bathroom. The dog is taken anywhere, but not where it should be - among people.

The dog spoils things in the house, chews carpets and furniture. The owner, without hesitation, locks the dog or kicks it out into the yard. He never recognizes the dog's need to chew, while the responsibility for turning the dog's desire to chew into something more constructive and acceptable lies with him.

There are many similar behavioral problems that dog owners don't worry about. For example, dogs are afraid of a vacuum cleaner; they are frightened by its noise and movement. They either run away from him barking and growling or try to attack him. I have to vacuum when the dog is not at home. But is this a solution to the problem?

Dogs are afraid of the roar of cars. The situation when a dog becomes uncontrollable is dangerous. A dog may have a variety of reactions to traveling in a car: it may vomit, vomit, or chew on the seat upholstery. Any of these reasons will make the dog owner not to take his dog with him on trips. How to correct the dog's behavior in such situations?

The main goal when training a dog to obedience is to eliminate the problem of fear by teaching the dog to focus on something else. This something else is commands developed specifically to focus the dog’s attention between fear, for example, and the absolute demand for obedience to the owner’s commands. If commands are given intelligently, fairly and appropriately, the dog, as he learns to listen and obey, will come to understand that what he is afraid of is not really so scary. We find a replacement for this fear and do not allow it to grow uncontrollably. The problem of fear cannot be solved neither by shouting, nor by beating, nor by locking the dog, nor by petting it. All of this will cause the dog to develop even more hectic behavior.

You can reason like this: “If my dog is afraid of trash cans, cars, vacuum cleaners, loud noises, guns or people, I will not allow him to encounter these.” But the dog does not want to leave the real world. She feels unhappy because she is afraid, just like people do when they feel afraid. Fear provokes incorrect behavior.

How to neutralize negative behavior and instill self-confidence in your dog? Fear of car slams and rumbles is a very common phenomenon among dogs of many breeds and different sizes, and not just among small dogs. The ability to hear is developed in dogs in such a way that what can irritate us seems very scary to dogs. When noise occurs, first try to act calmly, as if everything is normal. Let your dog know this with your voice and intonation, posture and actions. If you also reveal your fear of the dog, the dog's fear will increase.

Teach your dog to walk next to you in a calm environment, to sit automatically and sit until you give another command. Using well-learned commands, take the leash and begin to train your dog to walk alongside, asking him to automatically sit at short intervals. Keep the dog moving, focusing on following commands. To keep your dog in good shape, you must practice these commands in other environments. You will be amazed at how little impact extraneous noise will have on your dog after the work has been done.

Let's look at another example. A willful dog, she is suspicious of all people. She gets nervous when meeting a person, she can run away or shrink in fear and run some distance away and bark, jump on people and even try to bite.

Don't allow people to show your dog attention if he is afraid of strangers. Even a friendly dog should not be greeted too noisily or violently. Dogs prefer to meet people the way they see fit. They like to take the first step themselves. There is no need to stroke the dog on the head, this gesture is fraught with danger for them; it is better to pat it under the chest. Do not make fast, sharp, aggressive movements and do not pester her if she herself does not express desire. Let me smell you. Calmly go into the room and sit down. Relax and give her time to observe you and understand what kind of person you are.

If you are the owner of a dog who is afraid of strangers, your job is to train the dog to stay near the door on a leash when a stranger enters. She should automatically sit near the door and sit. By following your command, the dog cannot behave badly or as it pleases. If the dog has calmed down, you can let it go, saying “Go for a walk!” and allow it to meet a stranger.

Another problem that a dog owner has to deal with is the dog’s anxiety and, as a result, its desire to chew and spoil things in the house. Owners, as a rule, punish the dog for chewing household items, but rarely think about giving it something to chew on for pleasure. Buy natural, sterilized bones and rubber toys for dogs of different sizes and shapes. Avoid giving your dog rawhide toys. thin rubber, old blankets, socks, shoes. Toys purchased for a dog belong only to it. Let them be in every room where she happens to be. Toys that she is not particularly interested in can be rubbed with cheese, chicken, bacon or something else so that she is attracted to the smell. When she chews something that is not necessary, sharply tell her “Ugh!”, and when she stops gnawing, offer her her own toys, praise her by saying “good.” This is how you teach your dog basic obedience.

The noise and movement of vacuum cleaners frighten dogs. The dog needs to be taught to overcome its fear. Train your dog to follow the commands “Near!”, “Sit!”, “Place!”, “Lie down!”. Practice the commands “Near!” and “Sit!” away from the person with the vacuum cleaner, but still so that she can see and hear the vacuum cleaner. Bring the dog closer to the vacuum cleaner, then take it further away. When the dog calms down, train the “Sit!” command with him while holding him on a leash. When she feels more confident, start practicing the command “Lie down!” In this position the dog feels most vulnerable.

Never frighten your dog with a vacuum cleaner. Don't get too close to it with the vacuum cleaner. Over the course of several days, conduct a series of short sessions with her. First, let him master the commands “Near!” and “Sit!” Then get her to follow the command “Sit!” You will increase her self-confidence to such an extent that she will forget about her fears.

Noisy trucks can confuse your dog's senses. Train your dog to walk next to you, sit automatically when you stop, sit on command when you move away from him, and run towards you on command. Practice all these commands in a calm environment in a familiar place. Get ready for the moment when the truck appears. By then, your dog should already be well trained.

Practice the “Sit!” command when the dog is walking close by, with frequent stops. Apply firm correction if the dog runs away and do not sit when you stop. She needs to learn to sit automatically, so she needs to watch you. In the beginning, she may not be looking at you, but at the truck, but she must be sitting. Gradually she will learn to look at you, despite all the distractions. Train her to sit at a distance of 2 meters, then try calling her when you are standing next to a distracting object, and get her to sit in front of you and sit until you give a new command. If you were to call your dog away from a distracting object, it would not be as effective because the dog would be only too happy to run away from it. In fact, she would probably have passed you if you hadn't held her down and forced her to sit down.

Dog behavior in the car. This problem is more serious than the fear of vacuum cleaners. If your dog has unpleasant memories associated with car rides, then his restless behavior every time he is forced into the car is quite justified. How to make your dog enjoy driving a car? Very simple. We take her with us on short trips to pleasant places - to pick up the newspaper, to grandma’s, to nature, to meet “daddy” at the station. The dog associates these trips with something pleasant, and the dog behaves calmly in the car. She will be able to tolerate even trips to the vet from time to time, since she will already have developed a positive attitude towards the car.

Dogs that vomit in the car are usually fed shortly before the trip. Feed your dog three hours before the trip and two hours after the trip. This will reduce her need to empty her bowels and bladder. The more often a dog vomits, the more often it has a need to “relieve” in the car, the more bigger dog will associate his poor health with traveling in the car. Keep toys for your dog in the car and leave him in the car for short periods of time, but so that you can watch him. Then come back and go home. Don't leave your dog alone in the car for long periods of time to prevent it from developing anxiety and all its negative consequences. So, the solution to the problem of car travel is short, frequent trips to pleasant places.

Tell your dog to sit and stay next to you. Open the door. Give her a strong tug on the leash if she lunges toward or into the car. It must be manageable. Dogs should sit in the back seat, not the front seat, and should not jump from one seat to another in the car. When the dog is in the back seat, tell him “Walk!”, and then give the command “Down!” Then get into the car.

When you need to go out, tell her to “Down!” again. Get out of the car. Approach from the passenger side. Open the door and take the leash. Your dog is still following the command "Down!" Pause for a few seconds and then cancel the command by saying “Walk!” If your dog is very excited, order him to follow the “Down!” command all the time during the trip.

5.Basics proper feeding poodle

“Even the most distant person from biology would not think of feeding a horse meat. But a dog is easily fed soup, like a pig, and oats, like a horse, and then they wonder why the unfortunate dog’s hair and teeth fall out,
A whole bunch of other diseases appear."
(S. Minsky, veterinarian; “Friend” 5/95)

A real poodle, regardless of size - both large and small and dwarf and even that - must have a STRONG AND PROPORTIONALLY DEVELOPED BONE, ELASTIC and DEVELOPED, but not too athletic MUSCLES, it must be STRONG and MOBILE, but at the same time maintain ELEGANCE and even ARISTOCRATISM of his unusual appearance. This cannot be achieved without proper feeding.
Again about feeding! As much as possible, everything has already been said, it’s no longer interesting, we already know everything! Is not it? Then why are they not reducing, and at the same time with improving veterinary care and our veterinarians mastering the methods modern diagnostics ARE cases of diseases of the stomach, intestines, chronic (non-infectious!) disorders of the liver and spleen GROWING RAPIDLY? And why, in almost all poodles, does the pancreas refuse to work, which manifests itself in conditions close to chronic pancreatitis and diabetes mellitus? Do kidney and bladder stones fall from the sky?

Thousands of years ago, man began to feed his dogs, but useful experience in this part of their relationship appeared only at the end of the 20th century, when leading companies producing ready-made dog food created their own research centers and seriously began studying the digestive processes of their clients. It was then that it became clear how many prejudices and prejudices people had accumulated over the past millennia bad habits, which not only poison (literally) a dog’s life, but also shorten it.
Some do not believe in the dangers posed by feeding only meat. Others do not notice that their beloved "Hercules" is gradually but surely killing the dog. Still others cut out the fat from the meat and carefully pick it out from cans of ready-made food...
To properly feed your beloved poodle, you need to know its needs and not forget about the digestive characteristics of dogs.

Two large poodle females of approximately the same age and similar origin. The left one has quite strong backbone and quite proportional addition. But the dog is very thin and the muscles are practically not developed, the skin is thin and dry. This condition is called insufficient. To put it simply - “skin and bones”. On the right is a bitch in excellent show condition, she has elastic, shiny, dark skin, strong but, as befits a poodle, not sculpted muscles of the shoulder and shoulder blade, thigh and lower leg. This bitch has strong, muscular withers. According to the criteria of human beauty, there is a lanky fashion model on the left, and a sexy variety show dancer on the right. The right bitch's condition is approaching breeding, which is not bad at all for a bitch. .

We repeat - in order to properly feed your beloved poodle you need to know its needs.
and do not forget about the peculiarities of digestion in dogs.

DIGESTION FEATURES IN DOGS,
WHICH YOU SHOULD NOT FORGET ABOUT.

* Not important for the dog appearance or the color of the food, she won’t appreciate its taste either, since she almost doesn’t feel it. But in the smell of food, the dog distinguishes billions of subtle shades.

* Time required for primary processing food, a dog has much less time to break down and absorb its constituent nutrients than a human.

* There are no enzymes (amylase) in the dog's saliva; it does not chew food, so food enters the stomach almost without pre-processing.

* Acidity gastric juice and the activity of digestive enzymes in a healthy dog’s stomach is significantly higher than in a human. Food is mixed and processed very quickly.

* The composition of enzymes secreted by the pancreas and gall bladder differs from human ones. For example, there are completely no substances that break down some carbohydrates (milk sugar, starch), there is nothing to destroy the shell plant cell and its valuable contents are not absorbed.

* The small intestine of a dog is much shorter than that of a human, but the absorption capacity of the mucous membrane is higher, food is processed and absorbed quickly. Peristalsis (propulsion) is powerful and feces begin to form in the large intestine much faster than in humans.

* The large intestine completes the process by sucking water and minerals from undigested residues, and the microorganisms living here complete the breakdown of some proteins and carbohydrates, releasing biologically active substances (enzymes, provitamins) as a product of their activity.

* The dog's feces are almost dehydrated and very dense. Along the walls of the rectum, on the right and left, almost at its exit, the anal glands and their ducts are located. As the feces pass, they press them against the ischial bones and part of the fat-like secretion is squeezed out into the rectum, protecting it from injury and facilitating the removal of dense masses. If, due to irregularities in feeding, the stool becomes soft, the secretion in the anal glands stagnates, inflammation begins, which can result in the formation of fistulas.

THE DANGER OF DISTURBING THE BALANCE OF ANIMAL AND PLANT PRODUCTS IN THE DOG'S DIETS.

FEATURES OF PROTEIN ABSOLUTION.

However, these “passion-faces” do not mean that the dog should be fed only meat. Modern research It has been established that animal products should make up AT LEAST HALF of a dog’s diet. For growing puppies, whelping and lactating bitches, as well as sporting dogs, the share of animal products should be increased to 2/3 of the total volume.

ANIMAL BY-PRODUCTS PROTEINS. As a rule, in by-products (liver, spleen, lungs, kidneys, abomasum, udder, etc.) THERE IS LITTLE COMPLETE PROTEIN, but a lot connective tissue. Dogs also need it, but not in large quantities. In addition, we should not forget that most of the organs included in the concept of “by-products” act as FILTERS in the body and can accumulate very harmful substances—pesticides, heavy metals, and even antibiotics and hormones that may have been used to treat the animal before slaughter. All dogs love the smell of offal, and that's understandable. But they must be given AS A SUPPLEMENT. When feeding poodles, you need to be very careful when using the udder, which consists only of fat and connective tissue. But it is very useful to add turkey or chicken stomachs to your poodle’s food. For a large poodle, you can add a little rolled or finely chopped rennet (cow stomach = tripe) to the food.

MILK PROTEINS (caseins) are an excellent food, but it is better if they enter the dog’s stomach in fermented milk products (cottage cheese, kefir, yogurt), already “digested” by bacteria. In these products, milk sugar (lactose) is also “eaten” by bacteria, and this is good, because in dogs’ bodies it is not broken down, not absorbed and often causes fermentation and gases, and in large quantities - allergies.

EGG WHITES will increase the “fullness” of the food, but it is better to give the egg in the form of an omelet. Crude egg whites are allergenic and contain avidin, which destroys some vitamins. YOLK can be given raw.

PLANT PROTEINS. There are plants whose proteins are well absorbed by the dog, for example, rice and soy (more than 80%!). But some poodles are allergic to soy, and in others it causes increased gas formation in the stomach, so its suitability for a particular dog has to be tested experimentally. Also, some poodles are allergic to glutens contained in cereal grains and, of course, in all products made from them. (
Brown rice (unpolished grain) is best. But if brown rice is not available, it can be replaced with long-grain white rice, preferably steamed. If this is not the case, you can even take white round rice, but in this case the rice will have to be carefully cooked in a large amount of water, make sure that it does not become too boiled, and after boiling, rinse thoroughly to remove starch. A good substitute for rice is boiled crumbly buckwheat.

Ripe gooseberries contain a lot of fructose, which dogs need. Many poodles easily find the ripest berries, deftly pick them from a thorny bush and, after chewing, swallow the juice and spit out the tough skin.

YOU CAN'T DO WITHOUT PLANT FOOD.

In addition to proteins, plant products contains many substances necessary for dogs. It is important to know how to properly prepare these foods to make it easier for your dog to digest them.

CARBOHYDRATES. Some carbohydrates (starch, cellulose) are not broken down and not absorbed by the dog’s body, while others, for example, glucose and fructose, are easily digested and quickly enter the blood and muscles. Carbohydrates are processed in the liver and stored here as an “emergency reserve” (glycogen). With an excess intake of carbohydrates, the liver is overloaded and performs its blood purification function worse. This can lead to allergic and diathesis reactions. This is why it is so important to maintain a balance of plant and animal products in food.
Main source of carbohydrates - various cereals, the best of them are buckwheat and long-grain rice. The cereal should be well cooked, but not sticky, but crumbly (as for a side dish). If you don't have long rice, you can cook round rice and then rinse it to remove starch. Convenient, but less healthy, cereal flakes for porridges" instant cooking"(except for barley and oatmeal), you just need to pour boiling water over them. All poodles are very fond of (and digest well) muesli flakes with raisins, apricots, bananas and kiwi - they can also be given sometimes.
VITAMINS and other biologically active substances that plants are so rich in cannot always enter the dog’s body. To help her you need to properly prepare plant foods: Grind raw vegetables (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, tomato, carrots), fruits (apples) and greens (lettuce, spinach) to a puree immediately before adding them to the food. Whole or coarsely chopped vegetables and fruits are not food, but a toy or a toothpick, but, at the same time, garbage for the stomach and intestines. Boiled vegetables and fruits are not harmful, but almost useless.

Are there any vitamins here?

Let's check now...

VALUE OF ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE FATS.

ANIMAL FATS participate in the regulation of heat exchange in the body and therefore when a dog does not receive enough fat, its body begins to spend proteins not for construction but for “heating”. In addition, fats contain fat-soluble vitamins. Dogs like the smell of animal fat and make food more attractive. A healthy adult dog digests fats virtually 100%, even puppies cope well with them. Old fat and rancid foods should not be given butter, because they contain toxins and substances that destroy vitamins A and E. A puppy needs 2-3 g of animal fat per kilogram of body weight per day, a puppy bitch and sports dog- the same amount, and an adult with moderate loads is half as much. Ready-made dog food has a balance fatty acids supported by the addition of natural animal fat (beef, chicken - complex Omega-6 ), so there is no need to add anything to them.
VEGETABLE FATS (oils) are almost indigestible by the dog. But they contain many useful and vital substances that are easily absorbed by her body. For example, fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K as well as linoleic acid - when there is little of this, the poodle's coat can become dull and weak. Ready-made dog food contains special additives (for example, a complex Omega-3 from flaxseed) and supporters of home nutrition should add flaxseed, corn or sunflower oil(for one and a dwarf half a teaspoon, for a small one - 1 tsp, for a large one - 2-3 tsp per day). In large quantities, vegetable oils can cause stomach upset.

WATER REQUIREMENT.

Clean and fresh WATER should be available to the dog at any time. For a puppy, if there is no filter in the house, it is better to buy drinking water in bottles. An adult dog can be given filtered tap water or left to sit for at least an hour, but if possible, bottled drinking water is better.
Keep the bowl clean, especially for puppies because they love to get their paws into it.

Never allow an excited, hot or out of breath dog to drink. Let him calm down first!

The amount of water you drink is very individual. By observing your dog, you can roughly determine how much it needs on a cool and hot day and notice when the need increases many times over. If nothing has changed in feeding, thirst may be a symptom of a serious illness and then you should consult a doctor.

NEED FOR VITAMINS AND MINERALS.

VITAMINS AND MINERALS IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY AND THE RIGHT RATIO, ARE NEEDED BY A DOG AT ANY AGE. This need can be easily met by adding one of the special mixtures to the food, a large selection of which is available in every pet lover. You just need to remember that an overdose is more dangerous than a shortage, therefore, after studying the instructions on the packaging, you should strictly follow them! In the finished food for puppies and adult dogs, the ratio of calcium and phosphorus, sodium and potassium, the amount of vitamins and microelements is strictly balanced - NOTHING CANNOT BE ADDED TO THE READY FOOD, you just need to choose the right type of food!

IODINE - useful supplement to feed dogs living in the interior of the continent. Pet stores have preparations made from seaweed and plankton. They contain natural compounds of IODINE, which is low in water and soil (and therefore in meat and vegetables) in most regions of Russia. Supplements containing iodine are the only ones that should be given to puppies and adult dogs, regardless of what type of food they eat - homemade or ready-made. The dosage indicated on the package should be strictly followed.
CALCIUM and PHOSPHORUS . Calcium is necessary for the formation bone tissue and the successful performance of its function for normal cell growth and blood clotting. It regulates activities nervous system and hearts. Phosphorus is also part of bone tissue, and it also provides normal work nervous system and especially the brain. It is important that the dog’s food contains calcium and phosphorus not only in sufficient quantities but also in a certain ratio . Feeding only meat or, conversely, hobby oatmeal can lead to an increase in the proportion of phosphorus and a decrease in the calcium content in food. If at the same time there is a lack of vitamin D, this can end sadly for a growing puppy - the formation of the skeleton will be disrupted, bones will bend or become brittle, teeth will become loose or will not grow. In adult dogs, an imbalance in the calcium to phosphorus ratio can cause the formation of kidney stones and urinary tract. That’s why the balance of animal and plant products in a dog’s diet and strict adherence to the dosage instructions for mineral supplements are so important.

MAIN PRINCIPLES - "DO NO HARM!"

* DO NOT upset the balance of meat and plant parts of the diet.
* DO NOT give whole milk, replace it with fermented milk products.
*DO NOT feed raw fish or raw organ meats.
* DO NOT feed table scraps that contain salt or spices.
* DO NOT feed soft, warm bread made from yeast dough.
* DO NOT feed both meat and dairy products at the same feeding.
* DO NOT give READY-MAKED FOOD AND HOMEMADE FOOD at the same feeding.
* DO NOT mix ready-made food from DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS in your diet.
* DO NOT change your dog's diet suddenly.
* DO NOT overfeed, but feed enough.
* DO NOT water or feed an excited or out of breath dog.
* DO NOT play with your dog immediately after eating.

MAIN FEEDING OPTIONS FOR PUPPIES AND ADULT DOGS

A good breeder makes sure not only that the mother of the puppies has a lot of milk, but also that she does not become exhausted herself while nursing even a large litter. Proper and complete feeding of the mother bitch is the key to the health of her puppies. The duration of lactation in a good healthy bitch is about 60 days. Approximately halfway through this period, the puppies begin to be gradually fed, accustomed to solid food.

FEEDING PUPPIES AT THE BREEDER.

However, there are times when even a good bitch may lose milk. Then you have to start feeding the puppies quite early. If the breeder is not a fan of ready-made food or cannot buy a ready-made substitute bitch's milk in a pet store, he should under no circumstances feed puppies with infant formula! It is better to create a feeding mixture yourself, following the advice of the famous English veterinarian and dog handler David Taylor.
Here is his recipe from the book "You and Your Dog":
"Whole milk 800g + cream (or natural sour cream) 200g + egg yolk 1pc + fresh lemon juice 8-10 drops + min. mixture for puppies according to the norm + 2-3 drops. puppy multivitamins in oil. When the puppies are one month old, the milk in this mixture can be replaced with kefir or yogurt (lemon juice is then not needed). At this age, they can be given a taste of very finely chopped meat. Starting from the 6th week, cut-up meat must be included in the puppies’ diet.”

Most poodles are very caring mothers and from the 4th-5th week, without relying on the owner, they begin to “feed” the puppies, regurgitating their food for them, although they still have quite a lot of milk. For the breeder, this behavior of the mother is a sign that you can start feeding the puppies without fear of harming their health. From about 5-6 weeks, a healthy lactating bitch begins to gradually decrease milk production and when the puppies are 2 months old, lactation will almost end.
Usually the mother bitch is fed in the nest and the puppies first get used to the smell of her food, and gradually begin to show interest in the contents of their mother's bowl. Most bitches allow puppies to eat their own food. But not all.

Therefore the breeder must
1. Stop feeding the bitch in the nest if she guards her bowl too jealously.

2. If the bitch allows the puppies to eat from her bowl, the food in it must be suitable
not only for her, but also for the puppies. Proponents of ready-made diets do not have a similar problem because they switch the bitch to junior food even before whelping and feed it throughout the entire lactation period and for another two weeks after the puppies are weaned.

FEEDING A PUPPY IN A NEW HOME.

At first, the puppy should be given the food that the breeder gave you, ready-made puppy food purchased on his advice or homemade food prepared according to his recommendations. If the puppy is clearly well-fed and happy, and the quality of the food and its price suit the owner, you don’t have to change anything. If there is a desire to change something in the composition of the feed or in the principle of feeding, this should be done carefully and gradually.

TYPICAL PUPPY DIET.

WEEK 8-10.

The mother stops feeding the puppies, some of them begin to move to a new home. A sharp change in the composition of food in the absence of “medicinal” mother’s milk and the slightest mistakes in feeding can disrupt the puppy’s digestion for a long time and then affect the dog’s entire life.

MEAT FEEDING. Cook long-grain rice and buckwheat into crumbs, or steam cereal flakes with boiling water for instant porridges (except barley and oatmeal). Mix one volume part of the cereal side dish with two parts of finely chopped meat (not minced meat!), boiled or scalded raw with boiling water. Add a little grated carrot or apple, a vitamin-mineral mixture strictly according to the instructions on the package, and just a little unrefined vegetable oil.

DAIRY FEEDING. Fresh homemade cottage cheese, yogurt or kefir, raw or boiled egg yolk. You can add a little rice or buckwheat, grated apple (crushed apricot, banana). Do not give whole milk.

ALTERNAT meat and dairy feedings throughout the day.

READY FOOD (croquettes or flakes, canned food). If you prefer ready-made food, feed it STRICTLY according to the manufacturer's instructions and only those that are designed for puppies of this age. NOTHING CANNOT BE ADDED, otherwise the balance of nutrients, minerals and vitamins included in the finished feed will be disrupted!

NUMBER OF FEEDINGS - 4-5, preferably at the same time.

============================================================================= ====

10 WEEKS - 4 MONTHS.

The diet is the same. The volume of food in the bowl of large and small poodle puppies can be gradually increased, reducing the number of feedings to 3 by the fourth month.
For toys and dwarfs, the volume of food in the bowl should not be increased; it is better to add another feeding if the puppy is clearly not getting enough.

FROM 4 MONTHS TO HALF A YEAR

For poodle puppies of all age varieties
from 4 months to half a year is the period of main development, and for a large poodle it is also the period of main growth.
At this age, puppies require twice as much food as adult dog the same weight.

A large poodle puppy grows quickly and even small mistakes in feeding can seriously affect his entire life. adult life. The photo on the right shows a happy, well-developed large poodle puppy (female) at 4 months old next to her mother.

The diet can be slightly supplemented:

* SupportersHOME FOOD they can try to replace PART of the meat with boiled sea fish (choose bones!) and offal (chicken and turkey stomachs, beef liver, veal heart, etc.). It is impossible to feed only fish or only offal. Don't forget about vegetable oil, give the vitamin-mineral mixture strictly according to the directions on the package!
* SupportersREADY FEED at the beginning of this period, they can switch from Puppy to Junior, alternating them throughout the day, and gradually change the amount, following the instructions on the package, according to the age and weight of the growing puppy.

NUMBER OF FEEDINGS . Feed 3 more times a day until full.
It is better to feed toys and dwarfs more often, but in small portions.

AFTER 6 MONTHS

After six months, small poodles slow down in growth, but development is still underway and puberty begins. Until the little ones turn one year old, continue to feed them small portions 3-4 times a day.
Owners usually try to switch large and small poodles that are still growing to two feedings, although it is known that feeding three times a day is still better.

The photo shows a half-year-old female large poodle.

SupportersREADY FEED they can switch toy and dwarf food for adults (only the “super-premium” type, in extreme cases, no cheaper than “premium”) immediately after changing the incisors, a small poodle after 8-10 months, a large poodle should be fed junior series food up to 15-18 months. Reputable companies take into account the different needs of toy and large breed puppies and produce separate lines of food for them.

How to care for a miniature poodle. Rules for raising puppies Training and education

Steps

Feeding a Miniature Poodle

Grooming and brushing a miniature poodle

poodle ear care

Caring for Your Miniature Poodle's Teeth

take care of your poodle's health