British cats description of the breed, care and nutrition. British kittens - feeding, care and education. Choosing a seat and sun lounger

British kittens are some of the friendliest. You can't help but like them, because they are like cute teddy bears. Each of them has its own distinct character. Adult cats are real aristocrats, unhurried, neat, clean. But they don’t do without pranks. not much different from a regular cat breed.

Moving to new house– a big shock for the kitten. When you take a kitten into your home, you take on responsibility. A kitten is the same as a child that requires attention and care. And in order for your new pet to have a painless acquaintance with you and your new place of residence, you need to prepare in the most thorough way.

To do this you need:

make a sleeping place;
purchase bowls for water and food;
toilet tray with filler;
toys;
scratching posts;
various combs;
special food;
carrying;
nail clipper and cotton buds.

First days in a new place

You should not expect that as soon as the kitten appears in the house, it will run and play happily and carefree. Moving is a huge psychological trauma.

First, limit the kitten's habitat. Let this be a small piece of your apartment. Place all the necessary supplies next to the kitten - a bowl of food, a tray, a carrier or a sleeping place.

First of all, introduce the kitten to its litter box. At first, of course, surprises such as relieving yourself right on the floor are possible. Don't be afraid.

Just transfer it to his litter box after the kitten has eaten. And in place of the “accident”, pour the filler, and after it is soaked, pour it into the tray again. This way, the kitten will be able to find its toilet by smell, and the smell of new plastic will no longer bother it.

And in a few days the baby will go where he needs to without any problems. After some time, the kitten will get comfortable in one space, and curiosity will draw him to explore the entire apartment. Do not interfere with this, and also do not block his path to a familiar place if something suddenly scares him.

Other pets may perceive the kitten differently. Some will immediately treat him friendly, while others will be wary. But in any case, try to ensure that the new pet is saturated with your scent, and that the acquaintance with other pets takes place through closed doors and with minimal stress. And only when both have calmed down and realized that they are not in danger, introduce them directly.

Sleeping area

A sleeping place or house for a kitten can be purchased at a pet store or you can make it yourself if you are against the kitten sleeping on furniture and other undesirable places.

To make a sleeping house you will need:

A cardboard box in which you need to cut an entrance. The size of the box should be such that the pet can stretch out in it.
Inside the box, place a soft pillow or blanket that you don’t mind, and also lay down an easily washable bedding.
Place the house in a warm, quiet and cozy place.

But a cat house is not the most necessary thing. The kitten simply may not want to sleep in the place allotted to it and will find another corner for sleep and rest.

Bowls for water and food

The kitten should have at least three food bowls. One is for water, the other is for dry food, the third is for canned food or other food. If you use a double bowl for food, then water will get into the food or vice versa, and therefore the food will quickly spoil.

You should choose a bowl that is stable and has wide edges. It is best to choose a larger bowl for water, because this way the water will not stagnate so quickly. The water needs to be changed every day, it is best to use clean bottled water. For feeding it is better to choose a constant quiet place somewhere in the kitchen.

Toilet

Usually, kittens in nurseries are already toilet trained. In order for him to understand where he should relieve himself, pour the kitten’s usual litter into the tray and put him there after he eats. To ensure that your kitten goes to the same place regularly, the litter box should always be kept clean.

The toilet should be spacious. Indoor or not - depends on whether your cat likes to dig around in it. Covered toilets protect against pieces of litter flying in all directions. You can lay a fleecy mat or mesh in front of the tray, which will trap the litter remaining on the paws so that the pet does not carry it around the apartment.

Toys

Toys for a kitten should be chosen with the same care as for a child. Toys must be made of durable material, without sharp corners. It is worth remembering that small parts can be swallowed by a pet, and therefore toys with fur balls or rubber parts are recommended for use in joint games.

scratching post

Scratching posts can be separate or with a house. Which is doubly convenient. Climbing up the scratching post, the kitten not only plays and sharpens its claws, but also exercises physically, which allows it to grow strong and healthy.

Scratching posts are both a simulator and entertainment for kittens. They come in a variety of shapes, colors and heights. They may look like a single column or an unusual shape. When choosing them, you need to take into account the pet’s habits. For the lazy, they come with shelves for relaxation - sharpen your claws, and then relax.

For active ones - with a variety of toys and devices, or a whole play structure that can entertain the cat if you are away from home for a long time. Scratching posts fit well into the interior and do not take up much space.

You can make a scratching post for your kitten to climb on yourself. To do this, you can simply take a dry birch trunk with old bark or wrap a thick rope around a stand made of any durable material.

How to accustom a kitten to a scratching post?

Usually, kittens quickly understand what can sharpen their claws and what cannot. But if you have difficulties with this, then these tips will help teach your pet to sharpen its claws in the right place.

When the cat begins to sharpen its claws on the prohibited object, spray it with water. After some time, having received a portion of unpleasant impressions, the cat will switch to the permitted object.
Rub orange peel or spray orange scented scent near the area where your cat sharpens her claws. The citrus smell is intolerable to cats and they will soon start avoiding the area.

Combs

The fur of British kittens is not prone to tangling or matting. Therefore it does not require special care. It is enough to use a rubber brush and small soft teeth. And during molting, carry out with wet hands against the coat and against it - this massages the skin, ventilates the coat and removes dying hairs.

It is worth paying attention to the air humidity in the apartment, because in winter, too dry air does not have the best effect on the wool - the British wool becomes dull and seems lifeless.

You can also use shampoo for short-haired cats. Individuals British breed don't particularly need regular washing, but you should have shampoo just in case.

Feed

The amount of food consumed and nutritional needs are individual for each pet. It depends on age, weight, health, environment and other factors. Domestic cats are usually omnivores. Important for cats balanced diet, they should get in sufficiently all nutrients.

You can choose ready-made food in the store. Kittens need special food, different from food for adult cats. If you are in doubt about what food to choose for your pet baby, consult a veterinarian at a hospital or pet store.

They can advise you on both dry food and canned food, and will also tell you how to choose the right and balanced food, prevent the appearance of stones in the ureters and other diseases that may be related to nutrition.

You can also feed natural products. In this case, you should give preference to beef, boiled meat by-products, chicken, and sea fish. But if possible, fish should be excluded from the diet and its presence on the menu should be limited, as it can contribute to the development urolithiasis. Greatest harm fish can bring cats.

You can also give dairy products. 10% cream or goat milk, which are closest in composition to cat milk. But it is not recommended to give cow's milk– because of it, your pet’s stool may become liquid.

If your kitten likes yogurt or sour cream, then you can include them in the diet. But yoghurts should be without additives, dyes and sugar. To improve stomach function, you can give boiled liver.

sausage, ham,
bacon,
very fatty foods
smoked,
salty,
sharp, etc.

Carrying

Carrying can be in the form of a plastic bulk container or in the form of a fabric bag. The choice depends on how you will move the animal.

Fabric bags are convenient to carry in your hands, while plastic bags are not so convenient to carry in your hands due to their volume; they are more suitable for transportation in a car. For a one-time move, it is not necessary to buy a carrier, but with repeated use it will be extremely necessary and useful - it will relieve you and your pet of unnecessary stress.

Nail clipper and cotton swabs

By trimming your pet's claws, you will protect yourself, the rest of the family and your furniture. This procedure is intended not only to protect yourself and the furniture, but also for the health of the cat - at home, the pet is not always able to remove keratinized and exfoliated claws.

Trimming your pet's nails doesn't mean he won't need a scratching post. Nail clippers help quickly get rid of an overgrown claw. Nails need to be trimmed quickly so that the pet does not have time to get scared and get injured.

Kittens should be taught this from the age of two months. The danger when trimming a nail can be that it splits, which will cause pain to your pet. That is why nail clippers must be sharp and of suitable thickness. Another danger is the possibility of skin irritation.

The nail trimming procedure should begin with affection and calm conversation so as not to cause anxiety.

Cotton swabs are needed to clean your pet's eyes, ears and nose. To do this, moisten the stick with a little warm boiled water or any special lotion and clean the desired areas.

“Getting to know” children and other pets

Before you bring a small kitten into the house where your child lives, explain to your child how to treat the new resident of your apartment. Tell us how to pick up a kitten, how to play and communicate with it.

Explain that you should not tease or frighten pets, as they may interpret this as aggression and scratch. And also tell us that by flattened ears and a twitching tail you can understand that the pet is dissatisfied.

You should not squeeze the animal excessively, although individuals of the British breed have a rather affectionate and slightly lazy character, they are still not always ready to tolerate intrusive attention.

The appearance of a kitten may be perceived aggressively by other pets. And it will be a long time before they become friends with him. Before you bring a kitten into your home, make sure your pets are healthy and well.

To make the acquaintance stress-free, first keep the kitten in a limited area and let him get used to the new place. Do not remove the carrier - let it be a temporary refuge for the baby.

Do not allow other animals into the room until the newbie gets comfortable. Perhaps other cats in your apartment will show aggression and discontent. Do not scold them for this under any circumstances.

Give them as much attention as before so that they don't feel abandoned or jealous. When after a while you let the kitten out for a walk around the apartment, lock the other pets in another room. And only when the baby gets comfortable in the apartment, it will be possible to organize an “acquaintance”.

When organizing a meeting, keep an eye on the pets, do not let them harm each other because it is possible that they will hiss or growl at each other. When peace is established between them, do not prevent them from sniffing each other thoroughly - this is one of the most important rituals of acquaintance.

Pay enough attention to each of your pets so that jealousy and hostility do not arise.
Provide different food bowls and trays for each of your pets.
Respect each pet's right to personal territory. If your cat had a favorite place, then under no circumstances drive him away because of a new family member.
Keep the animals at a distance at first, observing their reactions. If you have a dog, keep it on a leash initially.

How to keep your kitten safe

Kittens are extremely curious and playful creatures. You need to follow them close attention. And these tips will help ensure their safety and prolong their lives.

When you fill the bathtub with water, close the door and keep your kitten out. The same goes for the toilet - close the toilet lid.
Do not allow the kitten to get into the cabinet with medicines or household chemicals.
Open windows for ventilation or put a net on them. Fell out the window little kitty It is unlikely that he will be able to land on his paws, most likely he will be crippled. And not every adult British cat can land softly on its paws. For the same reason, do not allow pets to climb under the ceiling in your apartment.
Keep toys with rubber bands and small parts out of reach. Play with them only in person, making sure that the kitten does not swallow the elastic band or other parts.
Close garage doors, drying rooms and utility rooms. After all, a cat may choose a car engine or a dryer as a cozy and warm place to sleep.
Make sure your pet does not get into the trash can, as there may be sharp objects there. For example, cans of canned food, which attract with their smell. If possible, place rubbish outside the door or in a place inaccessible to the crafty and resourceful Brits.
Be careful not to place rodent traps in areas within reach of your kitten.
Make sure that the kitten does not swallow various small things. It is best to store them behind a closed door.
The antifreeze in your car is poisonous to cats. Because of its pleasant smell, it attracts pets. Replace it with a non-toxic one. After all, one teaspoon of antifreeze is enough to cause acute kidney failure in an adult animal.

In fact, adult British cats are not whimsical, but a small kitten still needs constant good care. After all, in essence, a kitten is a child, and children always require attention and care. In addition, you need to have certain knowledge and things before buying a British kitten. What kind of things these are and what they are for, we will now tell you in detail.

What to buy for a British kitten

Bowls - you need at least two of them, one for food, the other for water. In this case, always place the bowls in one place, preferably in a quiet place (where there is no movement), so that the kitten can eat in peace.
A toilet tray is very necessary, because only thanks to it the baby will have his own toilet and will not shit anywhere. By the way, we have already told you.
Every child needs toys, and a British kitten ordinary child, loving games and toys. If your baby doesn't have his own toys, not only will he be bored, but he may also use your things as toys. If you can’t buy it, we’ll tell you.
A scratching post is also a necessary accessory, in the absence of which the kitten can apply its natural instinct (to sharpen its claws) to your furniture. So a scratching post is a must.
House or bed- after all, everyone should have their own place to rest and sleep. If the kitten does not have a bed or a house, then it will learn to sleep on a bed, sofa and other places, which is not always appropriate.
A carrier - you will need it, for example, for visits to the veterinarian or for a weekend trip to the country (if there is no one to leave the kitten with at home).

British kittens care and education: the kids from the HESTICUS nursery have a whole playground with scratching posts above the house.

Feeding British kittens

One of the most important factors, affecting proper development and the future health of your pet is feeding British kittens. There are two options for feeding pets - natural food and ready-made food. The first one is the best, but only if correct selection products so that the kitten receives all the substances its body needs. The second option is more convenient, because you don’t need to prepare or select anything - dry food already contains everything you need (only good food, but more on that below).

Feeding a British kitten natural food

What to feed a British kitten for 1 month: at this age you can give ground meat (beef, chicken), dairy products(cheese, kefir, sour cream). We feed 6 times a day.
What to feed a British kitten at 1.5 months: Now the baby can already prepare porridge from cereals, adding vegetables and meat to them (in turn). We feed 5 times a day.
What to feed a 3 month old British kitten: all of the above, you can also switch him to dry food (if you are going to feed him with it). To help your kitten cope better with the granules, they can be soaked in water. We feed 4 times a day.
After reaching six months of age, the kitten can be transferred to 3 meals a day. It can be fed with all foods (except for the prohibited ones - butter, raw fish and raw meat, sausages, bones).

In the video above, the breeder feeds the kittens natural food. All babies are British; people call this color “whiskey” (due to advertising Whiskas feed in which such a kitten starred and thanks to which the color became very popular). Read more about the colors of British kittens on the page http://ysatik.com/koti/porodi-koshek/vse-o-britantsah-2552/ of the Usatik website. Also there you can find out the differences between the British breed and the Scottish one, see photographs of British kittens, videos and other interesting things.

Dry food for British kittens

First of all, dry food is chosen by those who do not have time to cook for their pets. There is nothing wrong with this; on the contrary, if you choose good food, the kitten will grow up healthy and beautiful, and if you follow the norms and rules of feeding, as well as other rules of care, it will live a long and long life. happy life. However, you need to choose good food, and for this you should know that cheap food is never good.

Economy feed is a very bad choice. They use a lot of by-products (waste Food Industry), very few vitamins, there are artificial colors, flavor enhancers, preservatives. These foods include Kitikat, Whiskas, Darling, Meow, Friskies.
- also not the best option. These foods already contain meat, but very little. Also, by-products are still used, there are few vitamins and the composition is not very rich in general. Premium food is...
- a good choice. They don't have low quality ingredients, just enough real meat, they have everything essential vitamins and minerals. These foods include,.
- best food among ready meals for cats. Accordingly, it is better to feed British kittens holistically - this food contains only high-quality natural ingredients, a lot of meat, vegetables, fruits, berries and many other benefits. These foods include,.

Raising a British kitten

First of all, raising a British kitten consists of the following: teach him to go to the toilet only in the litter tray; sleep not just anywhere, but in your own place (in a house or on a bed); do not scratch the furniture, but sharpen your claws only in the place intended for this - on the scratching post. Accordingly, first of all, it is necessary to have all this (tray, bed, scratching post).

Please note that if the kitten went to the toilet in the wrong place or scratched the furniture, you should not hit it. It is necessary to use a different approach - if you see that he is about to scratch the furniture - scold him, if he went to the toilet in the wrong place - clean it and treat that place with a product with an unpleasant odor for the kitten. Simply put, the parenting process requires patience.

Caring for Britons involves keeping their coat, ears, claws, eyes and teeth in order.

Wool

Since we are talking about domestic cats that do not freeze and hardly suffer from heat, the shedding process is not seasonal. The wool is replaced little by little and gradually. I consider grooming to be the most important because a plush, shiny coat is " business card"British. Her condition is largely determined by the correct food . Important role Vitamin supplements also play a role. I use 8 in 1 brewer's yeast, as well as wool removal paste. Be sure to keep in mind that these vitamin supplements affect the intensity of coat pigmentation, as do carrots and seaweed, which are also often found in foods and vitamins. If for black and chocolate British this will help intensify and enhance the brightness of the color, then for british cats light colors such as blue, lilac, fawn and cream British, the use of these vitamin supplements will lead to a darkening of the color, which may unpleasantly surprise the expert and you. Here I will talk about cleaning and combing wool. Cleaning consists of washing with water using a suitable special shampoo for cats (do not use human or toilet soap, we do not lick our hair, the shampoo must be safe for the cat's stomach) or using a talc-based dry shampoo sold in pet stores. I like the results of using professional cosmetics for cats from BIO-GROOM (USA), the shampoos do not irritate the mucous membrane of the eyes, wash the coat perfectly without removing the natural lubricating layer, without drying out the skin, and also help to enhance its growth (noted from my own experience) )).
Regarding washing a cat, I can give some advice, dictated by the regular use of this procedure in relation to the small and adult inhabitants of my cattery. Preparation: shampoo, towel, comb, hair dryer, bathtub cover, rubber mat. First water procedure is expecting a little kitten a little over a month old. Since the child is small, it is most convenient to carry out the event in a sink that has a plug in the drain hole. I take warm water (about 32 degrees, although the kitten’s body temperature exceeds 38), slowly immerse the kitten in the water, wet it well and lather it with shampoo (it’s convenient to cover the ears with cotton swabs first so that water doesn’t get inside). For soaping, I place the kitten on a board on top of the bathtub, on which I place a rubber mat. This must be done carefully and very quickly, since the heat exchange of kittens is very intense, and a kitten covered with wet fur quickly freezes. I thoroughly rinse the kitten in the sink so that the baby does not break out, you can use the “mother’s grip”, i.e. lightly grab the kitten by the scruff of the neck with one hand, place the other under its paws so that it feels supported and is not afraid. At the same time, it is very good to constantly talk to the kitten so that he hears your gentle, calm voice and does not perceive bathing as an execution. Under no circumstances make noise at the kitten or frighten it with sudden movements. Fear acquired in childhood is very persistent; later, during this procedure, problems may arise. serious problems, when the animal grows up and is able to provide serious resistance. Little kitten, which has not yet had time to pick up dirt, it is enough to soap it once. But you need to rinse it in clean water so that the water freely surrounds the kitten on all sides (so that it swims freely in it), you need to do it 2-3 times. After this, wipe dry with a towel prepared in advance and dry with a hairdryer, combing the baby with a comb. Of course, he will hide and be afraid, but your calm, confident voice will keep him from panicking. I have had cases when a kitten happily exposed its belly to warm streams of air. To be fair, it should be noted that such behavior is the exception rather than the rule))

As for my adult animals (Ginny and Grisha), I have not accustomed them to this procedure since kitten age, as a result I have some problems with washing them in the bathroom. The cat is terrified of this room, and the cat doesn’t like it either. My animals taught me the following. You should not lower the cat to the bottom of the bathtub - it cannot see the room due to the high sides, it is frightened by the lack of information and the noise of water falling into the bathtub. Now I use an intermediate option: first I use Groomer's Goop degreasing paste (it is applied to dry fur, this procedure is especially relevant for a cat who, due to his special sexuality, has a “greasy tail”, the paste must be on the fur for at least 5 minutes to create desired effect), then I wash off the paste, pouring the animal sitting on the overhead board on the bathtub from the shower. Then follows twice the soaping followed by thorough rinsing with the same shower. It is better to have an assistant who will keep the animal from migrating under the bath)) This, of course , worse than rinsing a cat completely immersed in water, but I can’t get the consent of my pets for this, so I water them quite for a long time shower, washing the tummy, armpits, tail, and under the tail. The bathroom should be closed in case the cat gets scared and breaks out and runs away. Wet, she risks getting sick. After the bath, dry it thoroughly with a towel. After the towel, I dry the cats with a hairdryer, not with hot air, but with warm air, so as not to burn them, although they are clearly not happy with this, but since I am the main cat in the pride, they can only accept it. You have to temporarily become a multi-armed goddess to hold the cat, hair dryer and comb, since combing the hair dries faster.

Dry shampoo is a fine powder - talc. It absorbs dirt and grease and rolls into pellets. To use it, you need to lightly comb the cat's fur against its growth, sprinkle shampoo on the fur and rub it into the fur with massaging movements. I use dry shampoo topically, most often for long-haired kittens, who quite often have problems with the cleanliness of their pants and shirtfront (related to food and the reverse process). After distributing the shampoo over the cat's body, you need to comb it out. Thus, we smoothly move on to following procedure care - combing wool.

For this procedure, you will need several types of combs - a single-row fine comb on the handle (a comb, when purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the ends, testing with your finger so that they are not sharp and do not have metal burrs), a massage comb with metal teeth, on the tips of which there are small balls (so as not to injure the skin) - preferably several sizes (large - for the back and sides, small - for the head, tail, abdomen, neck and armpits). And finally, a brush with natural or rubber bristles to “polish” the wool. I use the first two types of combs to comb my animals both against the grain and along it. The duration of the procedure cannot be determined. This will depend on the intensity of hair loss. You will know that the end is approaching by the decrease in the amount of hair remaining on the comb. After combing with combs, I take my furry friends to the bathroom and there I remove the remaining hair with wet hands. If you are going to have a reception where your tailed pets will be shown in front of the public, you can use lotion to make the coat shine by spraying the animal and polishing the coat with a bristle brush. Experts call proper coat care grooming. With its help, you can correct defects in the exterior (often found elongated hair along the back and at the base of the tail).

Eyes

Britons' eyes can run a little, especially in kittens. If the discharge is light and dry, carefully remove it with a cotton swab or sterile cloth. To care for the eyes of cats, pet stores have a large selection of herbal lotions (Phytoelite series). "Chamomile" is used for dark discharge associated with inflammation of the mucous membrane, “Calendula” can be used for excessive lacrimation, for daily hygiene care you can choose “Green tea” or “Sage”. Never reach into a cat’s eye with unwashed hands while walking around to quickly pick off a dark speck. This can cause serious inflammatory process. Under no circumstances should you rush to use potent drugs. If the condition of your pet's eyes bothers you, you need to start with a well-known antiviral agent - human interferon, dissolve and instill 1-2 drops into the eyes and nose every 3-4 hours. If after three days the result is not noticeable, you can switch to veterinary drug"Diamond Eyes" If this does not help, contact your veterinarian, perhaps he will recommend antibiotics such as Levomecithin eye drops, Erythromycin or Tetracycline ointment. When using these medications, remember that the effectiveness of the antibiotic depends on the regimen you take the medication. And only if no other means help, the last line of defense is used hormonal pills and ointments, never prescribe anything like that to your pet.

It should be noted that persistent eye problems may be a sign of some more serious disease. There are infections that have a detrimental effect on the immune system ( coronavirus, for example), and eye inflammation can result from a secondary infection, from which the body cannot protect itself due to weakened immunity.

Claws

Periodically (about once every 2-3 weeks) it is necessary to trim the claws on the front paws (on the hind paws you can only trim them once a month, they grow slowly). For trimming claws, use human nail clippers or special cat claw scissors, which can be purchased at a pet store. It is necessary to take into account what is in the claw blood vessel, it can be seen in the light. To access the claw, you need to sit the kitten on your lap, take the paw, lightly press the pad of your finger, and the claw will appear. Trim 1.5-2.5 mm perpendicular to the nail. Don't expect much understanding. The procedure does not bring pleasure, you can only achieve tolerance.

Don't damage the blood vessel! If this happens, disinfect as usual (for example, chlorhexidine or hydrogen peroxide). Note that the front paws have high toes. Don't forget about them.

A special scratching post is absolutely necessary for caring for claws. The cat's claw is renewed due to the desquamation of thin plates from the underside of the claw, which the cat can get rid of only by scraping its claws along a dense and fairly loose surface. Pet stores sell separate scratching posts and scratching posts combined with a cat house for these purposes. When choosing, keep in mind that a board hung on one nail will not be successful, since the reliability and solidity of this device are needed. Either such a board is firmly attached to the wall with several screws (keep in mind when choosing a height that while sharpening its claws, the cat likes to stand up to its full height and stretch), or you buy a post covered with jute rope, high enough and stable. The cat also likes to use rubber mats as a scratching post, which, for example, I have located near litter tray and perform a double function - barriers to the spread of filler throughout living quarters and a means for tidying up claws.

Ears

If your cat actively exposes its ears to you for petting and scratching, it’s most likely time to rid it of wax deposits. Although mine own experience suggests that frequent ear cleaning provokes more active release of earwax. Therefore, here, as in any other matter, a golden mean is needed so that, on the one hand, the cat does not become overgrown with dirt, and on the other, does not torture her with these frequent and useless procedures, since the more and more often the ear is cleaned the sooner it needs this procedure again. For this I use special remedy for the ears of the BIO-GROOM series (at worst, hydrogen peroxide will do) and cotton pads. I pour peroxide into a small saucer or rosette, moisten a disk divided into two parts (one for each ear) in peroxide, squeeze it thoroughly and warm it in my fingers. During all procedures, the animal is on my lap. I stretch half a cotton pad into a “handkerchief” and put it on the tip of my finger (do not carry out this procedure with long nails!). I begin to clean the cat's ear, starting with easily accessible areas. Sometimes sulfur impurities appear in the area in front of the ears, which is sparsely covered with hair, in the form of brown sticky formations. Then I move deeper into the ear and clean there as thoroughly as possible. The cat's ear has a very difficult terrain, so be extremely careful not to scratch the delicate skin. Movements should be neat, soft and gentle, and the voice persuading the cat to be patient a little should be gentle. If you do not hurt the cat, next time she will expose her ears to you herself. Sulfur accumulations cause discomfort in the cat, and she will be grateful for your help.

Teeth

It’s worth talking about teeth; quite often their care remains “behind the scenes,” although teeth are no less important for cats than for people, but a cat’s dental prosthetics This is not practiced in our country, so you need to try to preserve the health of your cat’s teeth as much as possible for all the years of her life. As you know, a cat at home does not have the opportunity to get its teeth in order - there are no suitable twigs and grass with which it could help itself clean the spaces between its teeth. One of my cats adapted a toy mouse on a spring for this purpose. Actually, not even a mouse, but a spring. Oddly enough, she is quite successful in this procedure of cleaning her teeth with the help of such a means under her paws, and this particular cat does not have stones on her teeth, and neither does she have plaque. Every day she chews this spring for 15-20 minutes, moving it between her teeth. Among the specialized products on sale, there are toothbrushes and teeth-cleaning compositions (sets), and often the brush has the form of a cap that is put on the finger. The devices are not very convenient, they are often too large for a cat’s mouth, and not every cat will agree to such a procedure. Many manufacturers of professional food have food for removing dental plaque in their product range. It should be noted that any dry food has a cleaning effect due to the abrasive property of solid food, when when the cat chews it, it mechanically removes plaque from the tooth. Specialized foods are made in such a way that they release active substances into the saliva that help dissolve plaque. If your cat eats ready-made food, it makes sense to regularly give her special food to eliminate plaque. If the situation is advanced, and not only plaque, but also tartar has formed on the teeth, then you will have to perform a special procedure at the veterinarian to remove tartar. The bad news is that most often this procedure is carried out under general anesthesia, which does nothing to improve cat health. If you have very close contact with your cat, she completely trusts you, will allow you to perform the procedure of removing the stone, which is quite painful for her, you can do it yourself, without resorting to the help of a specialist.

You need to arm yourself with special tools, very similar to the tools of human dentists. You can buy these devices in some veterinary pharmacies. Dental pickers for cats are broadly divided into two types - the actual pickers, which have the shape of a pointed hook, which need to be operated BETWEEN the teeth, and the spatula, which is used to remove large stones from the surface of the tooth itself, usually this applies to large molars growing in the depths mouth at the jaw closure. Sometimes, to carry out the procedure, the cat’s persuasion is enough for me; I mechanically clean the stones from the teeth and between them, when the event is completed, I wipe the dentition with a well-wrung out cotton pad soaked in hydrogen peroxide. It disinfects scratches on the gums that will inevitably occur and removes plaque. But sometimes you have to swaddle the client so that his actions do not interfere with turning a cat’s grin into a Hollywood smile. Advice. If you take on a task, do not try to finish it in one go. Let the cat come to its senses, and it wouldn’t hurt for you to get distracted either. If the entire jaw is put in order in a week, it is still better than traumatizing the cat’s psyche with a visit to the veterinarian, where she will be given anesthesia, which affects both the health of blood vessels and the liver.

The British cat breed is considered traditionally English, gaining fame in the 19th century and still enjoying enormous popularity.

It's still changing, improving: it becomes stronger and more powerful, the fur becomes thicker and more intricate.

Changes are also taking place in the structure of the skeleton, which determines the shape of the muzzle: now the British cat is a large animal with a regal look and the same cheeks.

Weight of kittens at different ages

Kitten age	Cat weight in grams	Cat weight in grams
Newborn kitten	60-140	70-140
1 Week	110-250	240-260
2 weeks	150-360	340-400
3 weeks	210-420	400-630
4 weeks	250-600	550-740
2 months	450-900	1000-1700
3 months	1000-1500	1500-2500
4 months	1700-2400	2100-3900
5 months	2200-2900	2600-4300
6 months	2300-3600	3000-5400
7 months	2400-3900	3300-5600
8 months	2500-4100	3500-6000
9 months	2500-4300	3800-6400
10 months	2500-4400	4100-6700
11 months	2500-4500	4300-6800
12 months	2500-4600	4500-7000

Adults males of the breed weigh 4.5-8 kilograms, cats 2.5-5.5 kilograms. Castrated Males can reach a weight of 9.5 kilograms, and cats 6 kilograms.

Lifespan British cats 13-16 years old.

Proper nutrition

Balanced food, endowed with all vitamins, is necessary for every pet.

Among cat breeders and owners there is a dispute: what is better to feed a British kitten - natural food or dry food.

If you stopped at natural food , then the diet should be based on meat and poultry (chicken, turkey).

You can give liver and boiled eggs, but do not overuse these products. Be sure to boil the meat and separate it from the bones.

No skin, skin or paws - you could harm your cat.

You can add buckwheat, rice or pearl barley to the meat.

Vegetables are allowed eat carrots, cabbage, zucchini and cucumbers.

Cottage cheese, milk, sour cream and kefir - milk- one of the main niches in the animal’s diet.

There should always be a bowl of food next to your food. clean water. The water must be changed every morning.

Care

To participate in exhibitions, and to simply please the owner’s eye, the cat must look decent- this means a clean and combed coat, clear, healthy eyes and claws.

Wool

British cats are very clean, but sometimes - when they get dirty or before going out into the world - they can be bathed.

For bathing, it is advisable to take special cat shampoos for the British. And it’s better not to skimp on care products.

How to bathe a British cat:

Take a basin and fill it with warm water about a third.
Place the cat there, holding it under the neck, and gently lather the fur.
It is quite difficult to wash the foam out of the fur coat of the British (this is especially true), so use a comb and watering can.
No need to wash your genitals, the British breed does not tolerate touching their “treasures”.

After bathing, wrap your cat in a towel. Dry the coat thoroughly and comb it after a while.

"Plush" wool- this is the calling card of any Briton. To keep it soft and shiny, you must also give your cat vitamins. On the shelves of pet stores you can find nutritional supplements for the healthy growth and development of the animal.

Shades are fading. When your British cat sheds, you will need a regular brush; comb out the undercoat once a day.

Besides this it is worth give hair removal paste: this way you will save your pet from unpleasant problems.

Hygiene

British eyes may leak a little, especially in kittens.

If the discharge is minor, they can be removed using a dry cotton swab or a damp (moistened in water) napkin.

For eye care, pet companies produce a lot lotions.

They are divided into drugs for excessive tearing and drugs for daily care.

Under no circumstances should you touch your cat’s eyes with unwashed hands, as if you get an infection, it will take a very long time to treat it.

Approximately once every 2 weeks trim the cat's claws on the front paws, and on the hind paws - once a month. In addition, you must have a scratching post so that the self-sufficient Briton can take care of his own claws.

Ear care A British cat needs it, but this procedure should not be abused. It is enough to do it once a month or as your ears get dirty.

For cleaning you will need cotton pads and hydrogen peroxide. After moistening the cotton wool, carefully wipe your pet's ear, being careful not to damage anything or get peroxide into the ear itself.

Estrus and mating features of British cats

Puberty and readiness to create offspring in British cats occurs during the period 8-10 months.

At this time, the animal periodically screams heart-rendingly and tears up furniture and carpets. There are two ways out of this situation.

First- this is to give the cat a “walk”, in parallel, and second- sterilization or sedative drops.

Stopping at the drops, remember that they can be given to an animal from 1 year to a week before the expected estrus.

The first mating should occur no earlier than 1.5 years, since the body of a British kitten is still developing.

Mating up to a year can lead to difficult labor and weak newborns, and in males, a decrease in fertilization rates.

They don’t breed in the first heat, you need to wait for the second or third, and only then have offspring.

The cat is taken to the cat's territory and given some time to get comfortable.
As soon as the pet begins to feel calm, allows the cat to approach him and allows him to sniff him, you can proceed directly to the mating itself.
Most favorable days- this is the 2-3rd day of estrus.

Choose your cat carefully for the role of father, since the cat is still young, and, according to the duty of the breed, unapproachable: a more experienced and mature gentleman will suit her.

For a greater chance of getting your girl pregnant must spend 3-4 days with the cat.

Sometimes it is not possible to conceive cubs in the first round. There is no need to despair: this happens often, just wait until the next heat and repeat everything again.

Castration and sterilization of the British

To castrate or not This is a problem that all cat owners face.

It's no secret that a cat who is not allowed to go for a walk begins to mark all the corners and things, and somehow he will have to.

“Walking” cats rub against furniture, the floor, their owners, while emitting terrible screams, and not at the same time.

Castrate british cat, as well as sterilizing a cat of this breed, should not be earlier than 8-10 months - you need to wait until the body is fully formed.

Besides, the procedure must be carried out before the first mating; otherwise, the animal almost always continues to want to “walk.”

And then caring for them, they are not the most simple tasks, nose the right approach everything will work out for you. Remember that by giving all your love to the British furry miracle, you receive in return boundless loyalty and a loving heart.

In this article I will talk about how to properly organize the care of British breed kittens. I will describe the process of trimming nails, cleaning ears and eyes. I will list the basic rules of feeding and what food to choose, and raising British kittens, how to care for them. I’ll give you a few cool and popular nicknames for cats.

Take away gray It is recommended to bring a baby, British breed, into the home after he is at least 2.5 months old. Until this age, kittens should be with their mother and feed on her milk. By 3 months, a good breeder accustoms the babies to, conducts and places the first ones.

Before you bring your British cat into the house, you should prepare everything you need for her.

Such items include nail clippers, ear cleaning lotion, bowls, combs for wool, a convenient deep tray, etc. Speaking of fillers, you can try different brands, and then choose the most suitable one. Less odor and more pleasant for the cat.

In order for your Briton to have a pleasant and comfortable life in your home, you need to take care of a calm atmosphere

Ear and eye care

The British are not predisposed to ear and eye diseases, but despite this, hygiene must be maintained.

To do this, use special lotions that can be purchased at a pet store or veterinary pharmacy.

Kittens' eyes may run a little. In this case, the discharge is carefully removed with a cotton swab or a clean napkin. If your baby has excessive lacrimation, you should use appropriate eye rubs.

The ears are cleaned once every 2 weeks. To do this, soak a cotton pad in baby oil or lotion and then gently clean it inner side auricle. You should not use cotton swabs for this procedure, as they can damage the eardrum.

Nail trimming

British kittens have their claws trimmed every 2 weeks. On hind legs they can be trimmed less frequently - once a month. The baby is secured, the paw is gently pressed, and the transparent tip of the claw is cut off with a special nail clipper.

Also, the kitten should be given a place where he can grind his claws down.

Grooming and bathing

A small pet should be taught to brush its fur immediately after it appears in your home. To do this, you will need a slicker brush, a fine-tooth comb, and a rubber glove.

Proper care kitten care includes monitoring sleeping place, and at first - even following the sleep schedule

Kittens are brushed once every 1-2 weeks.

You should not bathe your baby often - once every 3-4 months, but some Britons love water and enjoy splashing around in the basin.

Care after using the toilet

Kittens raised in a nursery have already mastered the litter box by the time they move to a new home. The new owner can only purchase a suitable container for the cat at a pet store. It is better to choose a cat potty with high sides, as the British love to dig into the litter.

Care after using the toilet comes down to one thing - timely cleaning of the potty.

Excrement is removed as soon as it appears in the tray, and the filler can be renewed as it gets dirty - once every 2-3 weeks.

If your baby gets his paws or tail dirty, you can gently wash him in warm water.

Raising British kittens

The process and maintenance of a gray or smoky baby begins from the moment he moves to a new home.

If you already have other pets at home, you need to introduce your new feline to them.

It includes the following items:

Eliminate physical punishment. The British are very capricious and independent animals. With spankings and other forceful influences, you will ensure that the kitten does not trust you. It’s better to limit yourself to strict intonation – cats understand it perfectly well.
Encourage your pet. Praise him for everything correct actions. Pet the baby if he found a tray and emptied there, sharpened his claws on the one offered to him, did not jump on the dining table, etc.
Use alternative methods punishments. If your child does something he is not allowed to do, shout loudly, clap your hands, or spray him with a spray bottle. Such methods of influence will not cause pain to the Briton, but will explain that such actions are not necessary.

It is very important to find mutual language with your pet and gain trust in him. This is the only way to establish the right relationship between the animal and family members.

Rules for feeding at home and which food is better

It is better to feed British breed kittens up to 7-8 months at home with ready-made industrial food. Which food is best is of interest to the owners. These animals are quite large, so during the growth period they need a balanced and high-calorie diet. The following brands are suitable for this breed: Royal Canin, Hills, Iams, Brit Care.

Distribute the daily amount of crackers (dry food) throughout the day and feed the baby up to 6 times. After 3 months, you can switch your pet to 3-4 meals a day.

If you decide to give a British natural food, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

Food should always be fresh and should not be left in a bowl for a long time.
Cow's milk is excluded from the diet; instead, goat's milk can be offered to the baby. Britons are allowed fermented milk products.
Once a week you can give a chicken or quail egg.
Cereals should not exceed 15-20% of the total daily requirement; you should give preference to buckwheat or steamed rice.
The basis of the diet is meat (beef, rabbit, chicken breast). For kittens up to 6 months it is given in the form of minced meat or chopped into small pieces. The meat is first frozen and slightly boiled.

For any type of feeding, the British dog should have free access to cool food. pure water for drinking.

If the animal receives natural food, it must be given complex courses (GIMPET, 8 in 1, Beaphar, etc.).

Feeding a British kitten is quite specific and slightly different from the usual

Nicknames or names for boys and girls

How to name a lop-eared British boy - these are the boy nicknames:

Arnie or Alex.
Billy, Buggy, Blake, Bruno, Batman.
Dylan, Dave.
Max, Marcel, Martin.
Thomas, Toby.
Felix.
Eddie, Elvis.

Compliance with all the rules will allow you to raise a beautiful animal from the British.

The following names are suitable for a British baby girl:

Betty, Becky.
Diva, Gemma, Dottie.
Crystal, Candy.
Lizzie, Laura, Libby.
Mandy, Molly, Mia.
Stella, Sophie.
Flori, Fiji.
Chanel, Sheila.
Emmy, Ella.

It is very important to immediately establish a trusting relationship with the kitten. Animals that have been abused have bad temperaments and can become aggressive.